We use one of these for a few quid. Does what we need it to. No idea how it compares to the posher competition
Tapping into the thoughts of the masses here.
I have 8 Global knives, which have been kept sharp previously using a Minosharp water wheel device.
I have also tried a Lanskys set up with them, but it seems a ball ache, and is 17deg vs the 15 and the angle on some knives is too hard to get correct with the plastic screws.
Never got on well with a full whetstone angle wise & found the Minosharp better....but not perfect.
Keep looking at the HORL 2 system now, which seems too good to be true - any experiences from the forum?
Other option is to send them away for a pro refurb, but if I can do it myself with a good bit of kit then happy to buy something.
Budget £200 before anyone suggests the lovely things I have been looking at just now!
We use one of these for a few quid. Does what we need it to. No idea how it compares to the posher competition
I used a Spyderco Sharpmaker for a while, but I've been very happy with the Work Sharp system,
Course, medium and then fine - finish with a steel just to remove any burrs.
Not answering your question at all but I have been very close to ordering one of these. It looks as if it could solve all of my blade sharpening problems?
https://www.worksharptools.com/shop/...ool-sharpener/
My father in law has the any shape linked above and loves it but I also have global knives and he told me never to use something like that on global. Not sure of the reason.
I haven’t gotten round to sharpening my knives properly yet. I’ve used that ceramic wheel thing you put water in which is ok but a bit boring.
Haven’t tried myself, but many seem to use Ken Onion.
https://www.worksharptools.com/shop/...ool-sharpener/
I use the Global steel, takes a bit of practice but works very well, I’ve read (on here I think) that steel’s don’t work, I’m happy with mine
Under 6" Lansky, anything longer a King double sided whetstone in a Naniwa stone holder. Both methods finished on a leather strop. Both methods require practice, but once you have the skills a touch up can be done very quickly.
F.T.F.A.
The works sharp thing looks a little brutal for a delicate global? Looks like a very aggressive belt sander.
Wiley, yeah it is boring and I am sure they were more sharp when new.
For all my Global knives I use this.
https://www.hartsofstur.com/chefs-ch...sharpener.html
Works very well for me. I can’t get on with steels or whetstone or whatever. This machine of the devil does the job perfectly.
Regards
V
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Bought a 'Chef's Choice' model 120 three-stage sharpener four years ago and never looked back - takes seconds to get a superb edge on even the most recalcitrant blade, even utterly shagged-out old knives.
Sure, you can get better results dicking about with assorted whetstones if you're the kind of person that likes to weave their own muesli and build your own home from living oaks and self-quarried rock, but life seems kinda short for that BS...
I sharpen every few weeks, well I guess it is a hone.
With time not an issue, the HORL appealed for being traditional but improved. I have just read so many horror stories over the years on electric blade mincers.
Videos don't suggest they are as sharp as you can get with some manual labour, and I love a tomato test.
Most of my globals are 25+ years old, why it made financial sense back then at 22, who know - I just knew what I wanted.
The best sharpening is by using a whetstone. I found when I first tried with no tools, I couldn't maintain a consistent angle, so I got one of these from Aliexpress:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005...K%212694444063
It cost about £60 including tax and postage, now I can get my knives so sharp that I can slice ripe tomatoes one handed and it also passes the arm shaving test easily!
Got my father's butchers sharpening steel. Use it on all my knives
Similar to this
...but unfortunately it is a misnomer. A sharpening steel doesn't sharpen...
Not answering the original question, but I will echo Bob's comment about finishing on a leather strop.
Stropping any knife gets rid the burrs and makes them sharper. The edge lasts longer as well.
I use a Horl and haven't looked back. I have a whetstone but just found it too much of a faff and I didn't use it often enough.
https://www.horl.com/gb/en
Seems to be some Panerai action going on.
I have one of these following a recommendation on here a couple of years ago:
https://www.worksharptools.com/shop/...arpener_finder
It works pretty well with my Global kitchen knives, but it is quite cheap and has already broken after very little use. It is still useable, but would be hard for me to recommend even though I am sticking with it for the time being. I am sure there are much better offerings out there!
https://www.boroughkitchen.com/produ...sharpening-set
These bad boys.
I can see me using the Horl lots to be honest. I also think my minosharp water wheel sharpener has various angles I can hold the blade at, so not perfect.
Horl seems to tick all the boxes for me.
I usually use one of these, for everything from penknives up to Bowie knives.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005...d=DQGk8irTTxVO
Is it a faff to use? Yes it can be. Does it work? Yes it does the job well. With this type the method of holding the blade is everything, and this one uses Allen bolts to tighten the blade. You need one of these as well https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/tren...tal-level-box/
At the end of the day it doesn't matter what you use as long as it works. Once it's sharp it's down to the type of steel how long it stays that way.
Started out with nothing. Still have most of it left.
DMT aligner works for me.
Bloody hell that is too complicated for me! I’m not clamping anything to my worktops. I get you have a business with this sort of thing, but I need simple stuff.
I bet once set up, that gives some amazing edges.
Random question - best to sharpen myself, or get ground to 15’ and then buy a tool?
I can see your point, it is a faff, although I use it mounted in a vice not clamped.
If it's the secondary edge then 17-20deg is usually best for wear and cutting ability. But it needs a nice shallow ground blade above the edge to achieve the best results. Thinner ground blade and 17-20deg edge = nice and slicey. Chopping bones and stuff is a different ball game.
Started out with nothing. Still have most of it left.
This is what I use on our Global & Kai Shun knives. Could never get a decent edge using the whetstone setup and this gives far better results in our kitchen.
[QUOTE=Mr_Mac;6208205]This is what I use on our Global & Kai Shun knives. Could never get a decent edge using the whetstone setup and this gives far better results in our kitchen.
For maintaining an edge on knives that don't need sharpening for the first time that style works very well. Similar theory to the 'cross sticks' sharpeners but a lot easier to use. I keep a smaller version in the kitchen to use on the knives tortured by the better half.
Started out with nothing. Still have most of it left.
I also use the Horl but mine is the 1st Gen. In fact I may have recommended them to Mr Carlton Browne I believe!
I find that it gets my knives sharp enough without needing at of the other discs but the leather strop really helps.
I find it quite therapeutic rolling it back and forth and I think the new version allows you choose a 15 or 20 degree angle.
[QUOTE=Mj2k;6208256]If as Global suggest on their website, they use a single acute angle extending a quarter of an inch up from the edge, then maintaining that is going to mean sitting cross legged in a cave with whetstones, or buying one of their sharpening devices perhaps. It's a long edge to grind. However since most of their knives are only listed at 56-58 rc hardness it might not be so bad.
For me a secondary micro bevel is longer lasting and as sharp. But we all like a bit of Samurai mystique.
Started out with nothing. Still have most of it left.
I use the lanksy system, really really good and quite cost effective.
Block sharpener , simple and effective
https://theblocksharpener.com/
My dad had something identical to that block sharpener when I was a kid - probably a Kitchen Devil one. So nothing new there :-)
I am intrigued by the sharpeners mentioned as I have a set of Wusthof that are years old but still in good knick. I've only used their ceramic disk hand unit to date and the steel. I have a wet stone but was a bit wary of messing them up! The angle stuff is a bit confusing. It looks like originally Wusthof was 20 degrees (probably most of what I have) then went to 14 fairly recently. Which feels a bit like a "Japanese knives are like that" so marketing say do the same type decision. Then a lot of advice for the type of knives seems to be more the 17-18 range. So what is the prevailing choice? The Horl only does 15 and 20 or doesn't it matter as long as you just use the same going forwards assuming that say using 15 doesn't lose the edge too quickly? I doubt a couple of degree either way make much odds in reality.
Last edited by reecie; 11th May 2023 at 14:41.
That’s it, the kitchen devils one. Knew I recognised it from somewhere.
Think a higher degree profile keeps a blade sharper for longer vs the 15 level, but you lose some ultimate sharpness in doing so.
Interesting the Germans started to play with Japanese marketing with profiles.
Why do many feel that a wetstone is a faff…? I watched a couple of YouTube tutorials and go cracking…. Takes seconds to restore the edge on my global….
I have one of those chefs choice Japanese sharpeners that I break out once a year to give it a proper restore, but I still finish the edge ona wetstone the edge isn’t as good without it…
I tend to just get the knife wet and give it 5 or 6 passes each side
Angles & continuity across the blade length being just 2. I used to use a stone on a survival knife when working on the farm - it cut well, but was not a good blade angle.
If you look at a butchers knife after many years, you know the steel does not put a uniform edge to the blade & you get a boning knife!
I cannot believe in the world of sharpening quality knives it even gets a mention. Likely serrates any straight edge to feel like it cuts and is sharp.
Seems there are people on here who will sharpen with a paving slab & think it does a good job and then others that want to really hone an angle.
Each to their own, but there is no way I am dragging a £100+ knife through some of these suggestions !
Whetstones are easy with a bit of practice and give the best edge. Not least, as OOK says, because a secondary or micro bevel is much easier to create freehand, as it were. I agree also that this gives the sharpest edge.
I've used Lanskys, ceramic sharpeners, honing rods (no, they won't sharpen a blunt blade) etc. and none compare. Holding a consistent angle is not a problem and can be adjusted per knife.
This just puts a small and rough serration on the knife, so it will cut through veg easily and pretend it is sharp.
Of you’re just cutting veg and stuff - it will do!
But it is brutal on the knife and no good for pocket knives or anything more precision.
I have a simple set of lansky rods, but they don’t do bigger knives well - so am about to try one of those Horl sharpeners
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