Seiko Sawtooth assistance please

[ralphy]

I've just picked up this Seiko 7N36-0AF0 (knowing that the crown wasn't correct), and on opening it I found this:









I've never seen inside one of these, but wasn't expecting to see a movement with a spacer.

The movement is marked 7N36C and I'm thinking this isn't the correct one for the model.

Advice on what I've actually got here, please!

R

[andamanen]

That's the sawtooth from another thread here last week, right? Such a small movement might look strange in a large case, but I think it's the correct one for the model. This is what they're supposed to look like:

[Huertecilla]

It is a 7N36-0AF0 and has a 7N36 inside.

Nothing going on save for you expécting something else.

[ralphy]

That's the sawtooth from another thread here last week, right? Such a small movement might look strange in a large case, but I think it's the correct one for the model. This is what they're supposed to look like:

That's reassuring. The spacer is just so poorly finished that I was surprised to find it in a Seiko watch. In fact, the plastic of the movement looks pretty basic too.

R

[ralphy]

Two further questions if I may:

1)
The serial number is 611234 and, trawling around my bookmarks, I make that to be a January production in a year ending in 6, but how do I work out the decade?

2)
On the case-back is scale going around about half-way reading from 10 to 19 - a poor pic but hopefully you can see what I mean:



Any info as to what this is for would be appreciated too.

Ta.

R

[andamanen]

You have to guess the decade using the model, probably the 2000's for the sawtooths, so 2006. There should be a mark on the caseback indicating when it would probably have to have its first battery change, if you can still find it. It might be the mark at the beginning of 2010, but it's hard to tell from the picture.

[ralphy]

You have to guess the decade using the model, probably the 2000's for the sawtooths, so 2006. There should be a mark on the caseback indicating when it would probably have to have its first battery change, if you can still find it. It might be the mark at the beginning of 2010, but it's hard to tell from the picture.

Studying it there is a mark just after 10 that looks deliberate as opposed to general wear and tear. Thank you very much for the info, every day's a school day on here!

R

[Omegary]

Just for future reference R on Seiko case backs the first 4 characters denotes the movement and the characters after the dash tell you the model number. So the example below houses a cal.6138 and is model no. 3002.



The first number at the bottom give you the year of manufacturer and the second is the month. So this one dates from July 1977. Unfortunately you have to know or guess the decade.

Cheers,
Gary

P.S. Have great Christmas.

[Barry]

Seiko's

I bought one as a fixer upper and it is a cracking watch.

You can still get the crystals and gaskets for them which is good to know.

The one I bought had logged over 300 dives and though it was a little dirty, it runs great and the lume is fab.

[minkle]

Thats put me off these, i would not have expected that either.

[scarto]

Just for future reference R on Seiko case backs the first 4 characters denotes the movement and the characters after the dash tell you the model number. So the example below houses a cal.6138 and is model no. 3002.



The first number at the bottom give you the year of manufacturer and the second is the month. So this one dates from July 1977. Unfortunately you have to know or guess the decade.

Cheers,
Gary

P.S. Have great Christmas.

Good info, simply put and good for noobs/those that didn't know (e.g. Me). Thank you very much. Sometimes we forget that not everyone has this arcane knowledge. Good to go back to basics.

[Elwood]

Wow, I've wanted one of these for ages. I'm really supprised to see that.

Has anyone seen inside the Solar series, is the movement similarly tiny?

[Huertecilla]

Just for future reference R on Seiko case backs the first 4 characters denotes the movement and the characters after the dash tell you the model number. So the example below houses a cal.6138 and is model no. 3002.

More precise still, the 3002 it the cáse design model (and base material).
The watch model as noted in the catalogue is unfortunately nowhere to be found on the watch.
There is anóther number on the ´six´ edge of the dial. As a rule that is the dial number. In catalogued models with just one dial option it may coïncide with the caliber - case model.
Only the catalogue módel number identifies which combination dial/finish it should be.

Like on my EPD:
The S770 - OAA0 identifies caliber and case. If the same case model is available in a different material like titanium or gold, then that will be represented by a differing digit.
The catalogued módel number SDGA001 identifies that it is with stainless steel finish. That however is nowhere to be found on the watch itself.

[ralphy]

Thank you all for the responses, gentlemen.

Seiko's

I bought one as a fixer upper and it is a cracking watch.

You can still get the crystals and gaskets for them which is good to know.

I've found the correct o-ring for this model is available at Cousin's and they also have replacement glass and gasket. Surprisingly, the replacement crown they supply is the one on my watch, which is different than all the pics of Sawtooth's I've seen, e.g. your's and andamanen's. Not overly concerned about that, as the one I have sits lower and given the absence of a crown guard that'll suit me for using this as a spare watch for diving.

Mine is nowhere as dirty as your's was and so I've just given it a light spruce-up, put it on a suitable NATO and am wearing it now prior to a new o-ring and subsequent pressure test. However, the bezel indices are in dire need of re-painting: does anyone have suggestions for the paint and/or any tips on how to do the job?




R

[Barry]

I replaced the crystal and gaskets and gave it a little lube.

Works fine as a back up.

To repaint the Bezel I used metal marking paint that I had spare.

Remove the old loose paint, a wipe with degreaser/isopropanol then fill the numbers with the new paint, leave to dry for a day or two then using a flat plastic scraper remove the excess paint so it is flush with the surface of the Bezel.
I did toy with the idea of using a lume mix but I have none at the moment.

[ralphy]

I replaced the crystal and gaskets and gave it a little lube.

Works fine as a back up.

To repaint the Bezel I used metal marking paint that I had spare.

Remove the old loose paint, a wipe with degreaser/isopropanol then fill the numbers with the new paint, leave to dry for a day or two then using a flat plastic scraper remove the excess paint so it is flush with the surface of the Bezel.
I did toy with the idea of using a lume mix but I have none at the moment.

THanks for that, I'll see what I've got and give it a go.

When I said mine wasn't quite as dirty as yours, it was hardly clean either:














So a strip down as above and then a dip in the cleaner:



Result:












The bezel prior to removing the remainder of the indices paint:



R

[Elwood]

Hey Ralph, how is this project getting on?

[ralphy]

Hey Ralph, how is this project getting on?

I'm away from home for a while now, but before I left I'd placed an order for some parts from Cousins and had cleaned the old paint out of the bezel indices in preparation to re-doing it.

I'll update when I'm back and have made further progress.

R

[ralphy]

Update.

Well it took a while (other projects got in the way) but it's finally back on my wrist.

Spruced up, a new movement in it, mesh bracelet, pressure-tested and a new bezel fitted (recolouring the original is still on my round-to-it list ;-)).



R

[CH47Driver]

That's a lovely thing Ralphy. Very nice indeed! Great work.

[Retep]

Nice project and watch, thanks for sharing! I like the mesh you have mounted, might order one for mine. Until that I wear it on a Marinemaster strap: