For a car? Kits are about 150 so not cheap, easy to use?
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Depends on your experience with tools. As daft as that sounds, if you are used to handling power tools and have "the feel" you will find it a doddle. Fairly difficult (but not impossible) to damage your paintwork. I got one last year and have done the Audi twice. No issues.
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I use a Merguiars V220 DA, the results are very good indeed. Combined with Meguiars microfibre pads I can eliminate 'swirlies' better than single action polishers.
R
Ignorance breeds Fear. Fear breeds Hatred. Hatred breeds Ignorance. Break the chain.
Yes, pretty easy to see results but not so good for the serious stuff.
Not really easy, machine car polishing can be hard graft but DA is the easiest type to use.
I would advise to use soft to medium pads first though and milder polishes.
I don't know what you mean. What is the serious stuff and what is good for it if a DA is not?Originally Posted by Justin Case
Sorry I mean a DA polisher is good for swirlies and much safer to use for amateurs but a rotary polisher is better for deeper marks but more risk of strikethrough.
Yep, I have a Megs one.
Couple of grades of pads and three compounds and it is great for correcting swirled paint.
If you are close to Suffolk you are more than welcome to try.
Pitch
Yes a rotary will burn through if you just hold it in place for a long time, which is very unlikely. It gets faster results than a DA. The professionals use a rotary usually.
Thanks for the offer, sadly not , Devon
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Dave !!! Your car is shiny as $h1t as it is - what you want this for ?
MX5 paintwork is uber thin, I wouldn't push it..
Boredom really
Tbh I'm getting quotes for a wrap , just thought maybe on close inspection I might be able to buff it up a bit better.
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I had two wrap quotes, £1300 and £1500. I will get it done down the line after Corten Miller get going proper again and release an SC kit for Blink to fit.
My patience is being stretched just now after 4+ months waiting....🙄
1700 and 1800 for me, Inc vat for a 3M satin, but where I live ( Devon ) not a lot of choice. The 1800 is Wrap City who are top dogs so it's not too bad
I'm going for a dark grey charcoal Satin like this
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DAS6 Pro is as good as anything on the starter end - buy quality pads. Clean your Car still do the machine at £99 delivered I think ( I can get you the discount code). Again depending where yo are, I can lend you a DAS
Cheers , I'm off Dartmoor so doubt that's doable thanks anyway
Slims are doing starter kits with full set of Auto Finesse pads, polishes etc
160
https://www.slimsdetailing.co.uk/pro...35352593170588
Loads of places out of stock and can't be bothered shopping around but it does seem a lot of car owners have money to burn and are buying home detailing stuff
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Hi Dave - Slims are good suppliers but perhaps also look at someone like in2detailing.
I would recommend a backing plate which takes 5 inch pads (not the 6in you've selected,)
You've also selected a 600watt machine - the DAS6 Pro is 850watt so again look for similar power
Also ensure your machine has a UK plug and a 6 metre cord
Lots of cheaper machines come with lower power and short cables
Whereabouts off Dartmoor? (I'm in the South Hams).
R
Ignorance breeds Fear. Fear breeds Hatred. Hatred breeds Ignorance. Break the chain.
Whitchurch just outside Tavistock
We shall be on Blackpool Sands this week at some point , our fave spot
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Thanks for the help
Tbh if I got one i just want a kit and away you go, it's for an MX5 and a Yaris so things like changing backing plates and longer cords etc probably not that fussed as car is next to a plug in the garage etc
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MX5 and Yaris - you will need both 5in and 3in backing plates/pads - the kits rarely fit the bill as they tend to only have one of each pad and grades of pad you won't need. You're giving yourself unnecessary grief if you don't buy the 6m cord. Masking tape also a must have - my best advice would be - ring Imran at in2detailing (or Slims) and let him assemble a kit for you
Last edited by Suds; 31st May 2021 at 10:05.
DAS6 pro are very good and the movement is such that it difficult to cause damage from overheating the paint like a machine polisher can in the hands of an amateur. You can get very good results if you use some patience and let the weight of the polisher do the work.
Check out forensic derailing on YouTube as he has some good beginner guides.
There are also good deals on the polishers about. I got mine for 90 quid and fantastic results for the money.
I've got a DAS6Pro, badged as Dodo Juice. It worked well on my S2000, and I've used it quite a lot. The best advice I can give is to be patient, as you'll need to work through a few grades of cutting compound and polish, depending on the state of the paint, and watch some "Junkman" videos on YouTube.
Although no trees were harmed during the creation of this post, a large number of electrons were greatly inconvenienced.
Cheers
The in2detailing website is impossible for beginners , just detailing jargon and product codes, clearly designed for those that know what they are buying
Example, one of their kits comes with a 3" backing plate yet it's impossible to then search and find pads, just no idea what I'm looking for
So looks like I'd have to call lol
On another note if they want to capture the home detailer market they really need to think about the jargon and complexity of it all
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Can it ever be removed without damaging the original paint?1700 and 1800 for me, Inc vat for a 3M satin, but where I live ( Devon ) not a lot of choice. The 1800 is Wrap City who are top dogs so it's not too bad
I'm going for a dark grey charcoal Satin like this
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Started out with nothing. Still have most of it left.
I believe so
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Sure, I always advise newbies to ring up and get a package tailored to their needs as there is no point buying stuff you won't/shouldn't use - personally I would recommend start off with two grades of pad (finishing pads and light cutting pads) until you gain experience - even those pads will make your car look better than new. If you can get 3in pads there is no reason why you don't just go with those on both cars. And don't forget the masking tape! The DA8 looks fine?
Yes they do this 'one stepper' which seems right for a beginner, is that all you need though that one sponge that comes with it and that's all you do, use that with the polish and then no need to get anything else ?
https://www.in2detailing.co.uk/produ...32328260681807
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I think the done thing is to prepare the car ready for the polishing with various products and then afterwards you spray it with some other product to remove any left over polish.
Basically its just leads of steps and products, there are many youtube videos on the subject going through every stage and what to do.
I think I like the idea of the 'one stepper'
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Yes i meant the 1st step is to get the paint totally spotless so usually you would wash the car very thoroghly and then use a deep cleaning product.
The reason being that the polishing pad will pick up tiny particles of tar and crud like metal substances from the road and put unwanted marks into the paint, defeating the object of the polishing in the first place.
Then afterwards i think you mix water with IPA alcohol and spray it onto the car and wipe off with a microfiber cloth.
Machine car polishing is quite an involved process to do properly
I think "One stepper" refers to the pad and compound combo which they recommend but personally I recommend you buy 2-3 of each light cutting and finishing pads to fit the 3" backing plate along with a refining/finishing polish and a light/medium cutting compound (to keep your initial costs down). That said we all have our own preferences so just explain you are new to detailing and let them know what cars you are doing so they can discuss options to suit. BTW, how old are the cars, how bad are the 'swirls/scratches' and have any panels been repainted/clear coated?
I've thinking about having a go at this for a little while. I had my car ceramic coated (carbon collective) after 2 stage paint correction about 5 years ago and think it could do with a freshen up. The guy I used has gone out of business sadly so toying with having a go myself. I've looked on line but got confused pretty quickly, would the ceramic coating make a difference to the process and or products I'd need to use?
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My car is 11 yrs old silver metallic with a some light scratching , pretty god nick otherwise
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The pro coating is good for 5 years Stu so possibly a bit more life left in it? If the car is maintaining it's water behaviour then it's still there - if so I would say just buy some Mitchell & King Pure and apply/remove by hand to cleanse the coating
Full Decon and then a light polish will make a big difference
This car was about 13-14 yo and approx 135K on the clock
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AwesomeThis car was about 13-14 yo and approx 135K on the clock
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What's s Decon?
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Decontamination- strong shampoo wash (farecla from Halfords is excellent), rinse, tar removal , rinse, ferrous removal, rinse, normal wash and dry.
Then you're ready to Polish, followed by a final wipe down to remove polishing oils.
Lastly, apply a dressing of your choice to protect all your hard work.
That said, I always recommend people perfect their washing technique otherwise you end up very quickly ruining all your hard work.
Last edited by Suds; 31st May 2021 at 13:39.
Cheers
Dressing meaning a wax?
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yep - that's another rabbit hole full of contention - wax, hybrid wax, sealant type coating (SiO2, ceramic...). All depends what you want from the dressing.. I'm in the minority in that still favour high quality paste wax
I also have one of Merguiars products with 3 pads and I’ve been happy with the results, especially on an old MG whose paint was badly faded. I’m not sure on model number as I’ve had it a number of years.
Enjoy yourselves on the beach.
There are numerous vids on YouTube on detailing your paintwork which should help you e.g. https://youtu.be/IrkppP6D6KQ
R
Ignorance breeds Fear. Fear breeds Hatred. Hatred breeds Ignorance. Break the chain.
Thanks for your reply. It is garaged for 6 months of the year while I'm at work so it is out of the weather for that time. Water does still bead but nothing like it did. I'll take a look at the product you mentioned. I assume I can prewash / snow foam, then wash, dry and then the Mitchell and King stuff. I was wondering about possible ways or if its possible to "top up" the ceramic coating or would it react to other products.
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Thanks for a the replies
Will watch a few youtubes etc but leaving towards the in2detailing beginner DA8 with the all in one compound as I already have Bilt Hamner wax
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No probs - wash/dry then cleanse with PURE - fantastic gloss finish will last a few weeks.
You wouldn't top up the coating as such but you can wax over it for added protection.
The ceramic won't react as such but harsh chemicals will strip it away over time
Without going all technical and OTT I would advise a good wash with a decent mitt, use two bucket method if needed, then use a medium clay with lube/soapy water to remove surface contamination, rinse and microfibre off dry, I use a Clean your Car DA kit with Menzerna polish and pads, German paint is generally hard, Ford, Vauxhall can be soft.
Take it easy with the DA to start, it’s hard to mess us the paintwork unless you have an aggressive pad/polish and watch the corners don’t burn, once polished I like using FK1000p sealant, two very thin light coats lasts a long time and it’s cheap for the size of tub you get.
Here is a 50/50 of the roof on my missus car after a quick hit with the DA, you can really see the metallic pop after and the swirls before.
I got the In2Detailing DA and it works well, first time I have ever used one. Did my BMW which has hard paint, I went quite easy and it did remove the swirls but some scratches did not come out
Used it with a uro fiber pad, got 3 of the 6 and 3 of the 3 pads for the different areas. Only ended up using 2 of each size. I did catch an area and leave a blemish but it’s hard to see.
The polish was a 1 stage 3D one nano which had good reviews
Research how hard your paint is and choose your pads and compound from that
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Did 3 of ours with the Das6, using Meg microfibre pads & mezerna polishes of varying grades. I also got a foam finishing pad with a really light cutting compound.
Tiring doing a full de-con, wash, clay, machine & seal in a day though. Would love to have a more relaxed 2 day approach with a garage to use.
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Thanks. Ordered the Pure and some pads. Off to look at sealants / wax
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