Certainly could do with a clean!
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This is strange, I google imaged the XTR M960 chainset and from the pictures that came up the none of the non-driveside crank arms have the locking plate pin thing (no.9) on the Shimano M960 pdf!
Is the compression bolt plastic or metal, if metal then I'm guessing that you do it up nice and tight, then the crank arm bolts and keep your fingers crossed!
Hi, crack on without the security tab. It serves no actual function once you have lightly tightened the preload plastic cap by hand. Any over zealous tightening will just ruin bearings. Do check your Bottom bracket is 68 or 73 mm and the correct spacer is there for 68. Do tighten each crank arm offside bolt alternatively with a torque wrench. I once just walked in one tight then the other and sheared a bolt. Be aware replacement rings will be an issue. They have a very odd BCD , a one off for Shimano .
This advice is spot on. The compression cap isn't holding the crank arm on, hand tight to engage the bearings is all you need here
Then all you have left is the 2 cinch bolts, tighten them alternatively and equally.
When it's off give it a good clean, looks like a small crack on the BB bearing cover, so possibly need a new BB in the not too distant future
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Last edited by xxnick1975; 18th February 2024 at 13:49.
I think I've tightened the arm bolts properly, left and right one crank at a time etc.
I can't see any cracks anywhere, might be shadows or general filth unless you can put an arrow where you can see?
I replaced the O ring, there was one there and sitting neatly into the arm but I have it a wipe down and the new one looks better.
The bolt I think is plastic, I've got a hand tool to tighten it so I haven't been aggressive. The bolt has a collared neck which seats into the arm so if it doesn't move I can't see how the arm can.
I could use my Dremel to notch something for the pin but I'm not overly keen on that.
It's all very complicated for my tiny mind...
Sounds like you've got it sorted.
No big deal re the BB, just if you use it in all weather you might get some crap in there over time
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Checked the other photos I has taken and it's definitely not cracked, looks more like a scratch.
Ill keep an eye on it this week and worse case I'll cut a groove into it for the pin.
I'm doing serious speeds on it since the e-conversion so don't like anything feeling off.
Thanks for the advice all.
Morning, continuing to keep an eye on it daily until my paranoia subsides but it's not moved at all, so very happy. Thanks for the advice.
Chap in a builders van was belly laughing at me this week as a overtook him 👍
Sun was out yesterday, continuing to test the new one.
That Curtis, so good it stands up by itself. Lovely!
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Morning all, looking for some accessory advice from those more experienced.
I use my bike every day to commute at road speed and am finding the wind noise is really starting to affect me when I get off the bike my ears are ringing.
I wear a Bell helmet with a spoiler peak but facing forward the wind noise is really annoying and I can't ride with my head tilted to the side all the time.
I don't want to use earplugs for obvious safety reasons, so can anyone offer up an option?
Was thinking maybe a windproof cap or head band to go under the helmet like this? I've tried a beanie but it made no difference.
https://www.cyclesolutions.co.uk/clo...--black__88554
Anyone got any ideas please?
Cheers.
Something like the Castelli Head Thingy is very flexible and can cover your neck, head however you want to arrange it, even as a balaclava. They come in thermal or lighter versions.
I use one of these caps in winter and I think they make the wind noise worse, I can defiantly hear less when I wear it ...
Maybe try a different design of helmet as it maybe the wind funnelling through the vents, maybe an easy test is to tape up the helmet vents to see how that works out??
You could maybe try these (reviews seem ok):
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B077PPCG...mc_s_m_5_i_atc
Last edited by Montello; 3rd May 2024 at 11:22.
Motorcyclists have this issue a lot. So the ear plugs for them contain filters. These are like small tubes that penetrate the plug. They maybe an option in the summer when you dont want a bandana / buff etc covering your head and ears.
The trouble is to attenuate noise you need mass, thats why your beanie didnt work. Foam plugs of various density use mass and flexibility to dampen down the sound.
prob expensive solution but noise cancelling ear pods but not paired. Would they work? Or is it the helmet producing the noise? Not a thing I've experienced in 30+ yrs and 1000s of miles of cycling
A stunning day for a 20-mile leisure cycle from Dungeness to Folkestone, and then the bus back.
Even managed to get then wife along for the jounrey on the basis she has electron assistance.
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Was riding that way myself this morning @8 - very nice morning
Just put a Garmin Varia on SC for Cycling types ill wrap it in a Rapha Top!
My retirement/semi-retirement rig is set up. Good for buses, planes and trains.
My plan is for gentle touring in UK and Europe.
Don’t forget hi-vis, unless you’re in the Netherlands.
'Against stupidity, the gods themselves struggle in vain' - Schiller.
It's been great weather here, trails are dry and trees are green.
A little rant.
Yesterday I noticed a split in my front tyre, probably from a bit of glass. So today I ordered a direct replacement, a Specialized S-Works Mondo. £55! I seem to recall buying car tyres for less not that long back? Okay I'm definitely showing my age now, lol!
Can't complain though as I'm loving the bike and, more importantly, it's encouraging me to cycle more. Mainly because it's by far the most comfortable road bike I've ever ridden. It's a Trek Domane SL from about 2020. I'm more into my MTB's and road bikes are a means to keeping some semblance of fitness. However I haven't been out on my MTB since I bought the Domane!
Cheers,
Gary
Last edited by Omegary; 20th May 2024 at 21:50.
I'm pretty much the same, was massively into MTB and bought a road bike to keep my fitness levels up, mountain bike hardly gets a look in now a days and I'm on to my 4th road bike.
I run tubless Continental GP5000 S TR tyres so feel your pain with the price if them!
Agreed tyre price is a joke, they have used the tubeless trend to push them up.
List on a GP5000 tubeless is £80.
Bit of a late reply to this, but - in my case I wanted to prevent wind noise from overcoming audiobooks and radio broadcasts. I found this product, called "Cat-Ears" on Amazon : https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cat-Ears-Ai...dp/B06VY6MH3Y/
However the price put me off so I reinvented them using cheap, fluffy wristbands plastic tied round my helmet strap. They looked fairly ridiculous but they worked really well. You can tell the difference they make by pulling them away from the side of your face for a moment in a headwind. It's dramatic.
Since then I've solved the problem by using earbuds that penetrate my ears a bit deeper.
Guys, I’m thinking of having the Shimano 2x11 105 R7000 set up on my bike (2022 Giant Fastroad Advanced 1 flat bar) changed to a Shimano CUES U8000 1x11 set up.
To part fund it I’ll need to sell my 105 stuff.
Two questions I suppose, firstly has anyone done this or similar?
Second, would anyone be interested ‘in principle’ in the 105 stuff (2022 and used lightly) when removed from the bike?
I’ve not posted in the sales forum yet as the conversion is kind of dependent on finding a buyer for the 105 gear, kind of a chicken & egg scenario.
Basically, if I can agree a sale 'in principle' then I'll book it in to have the conversion done.
I'm told the following would be removed and therefore for sale...
105 RD-R7000-GS rear derailleur,
105 FD-R7000 braze-on front derailleur,
CS-HG700 11-34 cassette
105 FC-R7000 50-34 chainrings
Shimano 105 flat bar font/rear shifters
I'm not sure but would £200 be a fair price for all of it?
Last edited by Orange Peel; 24th May 2024 at 13:38.
Why do you want to change the groupset?
Doesn't seem to achieve anything.
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I have to agree seems like a pointless change.
It’s not hard to change the front chainring occasionally.
Could buy a single ring chainset. Remove fd. Just run the rd and cassette or change the cassette to whatever range you want
Thanks for the advice guys, appreciated.
I had considered just changing the front chain ring and chain, but I’d lose a lot of the available gear ratios.
To compensate I’d need to also change the rear cassette and fit a single chainring of a suitable size to give me (almost) the same range.
As long as I have the hill climbing ‘bail out’ low gears I can handle losing some high range speed.
However I don’t want to lose as much as simply swapping the chain ring would lose me if I didn’t also replace the rear cassette.
You would have the same lowest gear as now if you ditch the big ring. Just the higher gears you would lose and the steps between, which you have said you don't care about.
The cues set up with a 40 chain ring, would give you a bit more range at the extremes but unless you are really struggling up some big hills currently not worth it.
Anyway, seems like you know what you want, that's fair enough, won't be the first or last to splash some cash on a bike unnecessarily. Weve all done it to be fair!
Selling the 105. Id say to get the best price sell the components individually on eBay. The rear mech, cassette, chainset will probably go okay and net you £150ish quid. Front mech and shifters might be a bit more of a struggle.
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Last edited by xxnick1975; 25th May 2024 at 08:34.
Ok, thanks for your advice, all taken onboard for processing.
I’m not 100% on doing it anyway, at least not yet.
I may just keep the 105 set up and try to get it set up right.
Then again if o find a buyer for the 105…..😉
Might be worth mentioning that (from memory, it's been a while since I did the training) CUES is aimed more at the Claris / Alivio / Sora level so very much Tier 2, enthusiast level of groupsets whereas 105 is considered Tier 1 so sport / race level. In reality I don't know whether that will mean anything but from a hierarchy perspective it is a downgrade from 105.
That said, although I've not fitted any of the CUES components myself yet, I have heard pretty good things about it.
I can understand why you'd want to do this if 1x gives you acceptable gearing, with the main plus for me being it removing the occasional need to look down to check what mid range gear you're in. That said, I have di2 so could use the synchro shift option to create the equivalent of a 1x but prefer full manual mode.
I think it's useful that others point out the pros/cons but ultimately only you know what's best for you so good luck selling the 105 and hope it works out. I'm currently contemplating a change to provide lower gearing but am pondering the advice of manning up and getting fitter!