I'm a 44 chest XL and after a winter long sleeve top for now and classic shorts for the warmer seasons.
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Thank you
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I'm a 44 chest XL and after a winter long sleeve top for now and classic shorts for the warmer seasons.
Sent from my XQ-AT51 using Tapatalk
Last year the Rapha sale started on Boxing day, but no sign of it yet this year!
An interesting thing happened tonight as I leapt aboard my 2004 Alps Custom. Here it is in better days...
I don't own a car so all my miles are on this - commuting, shopping, errands, drinking and just for fun. It gets used all year in all weather, and is parked outside, under shelter but open to the elements.
Anyhow, I was pottering to the bakery when I noticed the handling became quite squirrelly. Not terrible, but certainly something wrong. I parked outside the bakery, finished my shopping, and inspected the bicycle.
It was quite dark, but nonetheless I felt I may have found the problem...
Thanks to the 19th century pioneers of the diamond-framed steel bicycle, I was saved from an inglorious spectacle. I walked it home, of course.
I could have this repaired, the tubes being joined by lugs and thus replaceable, but I think I may have used up my luck on this one. Time to start thinking of a replacement.
Served its time no doubt
Perhaps a replacement by these guys?
It sounds to me like your frame has decided it wants to be a separable bicycle more suited to packing down for travel. You should check out S&S Couplings (no, it's not a swingers site).
https://www.ticycles.com/sands-coupling
http://www.sandsmachine.com/a_mercian_001.htm
The bit that would concern me is that the clean break may only be one part of the frame that has corroded from the inside but it would be a shame to completely dismiss the idea of a repair.
Is that a Nitto front rack?
I've seen those couplings, very strong they seem too. My bike was originally designed by Hiroshi Hagiwara, the third-generation of his family to build bicycles, for "rinko", or Japanese touring. The mudguards detach, the fork and wheels can be easily removed, the resulting components strapped and bagged for travel by train.
You can see a bike so arranged here https://www.renehersecycles.com/category/rinko/. At least steel has a slow failure mode, creaking and bending before it broke, the remaining tubes holding it all together under me. Hagiwara-san retired years ago, unfortunately, otherwise I'd ask him to help repair or replace the frame on this one.
I didn't find any rust in the downtube, but I know I have given this bicycle a tough life. From memory, I have worn through the rims (front, three times, rear twice), hubs, chainrings (at least twice), cassette (many times), pedals, levers, crank, brakes, handlebar, derailleurs and even a Brooks Pro saddle gave out on me after 15 years.
The only bits I genuinely haven't replaced are the frame and the bottom bracket, although I did fully service that (it is a TA cup and cone) last year. It has been used every day as my main transport, load carrying the family shop, whatever the weather. The downtube is under tension, rather than compression, and I suspect it finally just gave way after a few too many swaying baskets full of Kirin.
So perhaps I have to bid this one farewell, after an excellent life of service.
Anybody else complete the Rapha Festive 500? I managed to rack up 510km between Christmas Eve & New Year's Eve. All on the road.
I compared my stats for this year (6311 miles done) with my next-highest distance year, 2016 (5776).
My cycling behaviour has evolved quite a bit. Distances in miles.
2016 :
2020 :
Happy New Year, everyone.
It’s lugged already. Just get your local framebuilder to replace the down tubes. Simples.
Ps Lovely ride
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Last ride of the year up Alpe Du Zwift (Alpe Du Heuz).
Always a pleasure.
^^ nice one! I'm getting a bit bored of riding Alpe d' Huez on the Neo - although it is a good workout and calorie burner..
3 days ago went for a ride down to Kingston, Thames Ditton and Walton on Thames - nice and flat ..
2 days ago rode the Col du Telegraph on the Neo - this is usually classed as a Cat4 mountain in the Tour but it's not easy..
Yesterday rode Nidderdale in the Dales which was fairly easy apart from a few short steep climbs.. Rode Grassington to Hawes last week which is quite hard going on Fleet Moss..
Today I fancy the Galibier so will be getting on it after one more coffee.
I last rode the Telegraph / Galibier in 2017 and crested the Galibier at 8pm after a long day of the Glandon & Col du Mollard.. By the time I got back to my campsite in Allemond I had to climb over the fence to get back in!
saw tons (must have been over 30 of them), of Marmottes scampering around on the upper slopes of the Galibier, which was lovely to see as I had only spotted a couple of them high up on the Iseran in two previous trips to the Alps...
Last edited by bry nylon; 1st January 2021 at 10:44. Reason: typo
Not a lifestyle change really .. just a gradual change in cycling habit. I started doing this in earnest six years ago and at that time even a 30 miler sounded like a brave adventure. But you find out that even in your 50s, long rides are not that difficult and eventually getting your cycling gear on just do do 15 miles or less, like I used to do often back in 2015 and 2016, just seems boring and pointless. From a recreational point of view, anyway. Still good for keeping fit and getting out of the house, and I'd certainly encourage people to go out and do 10 miles on a bike now and then rather than not go out at all.
Not properly started yet, but got most of the parts to build my 'spares box' Dirt Jump/Pump Track bike.
Just waiting on a new headset and BB.
Old skool 26' wit tan walls
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Good effort well done 👍
I thought about it but after my Xmas eve ride was aborted decided it was not to be albeit I would have done some rides on Zwift TBH.
I wanted to do it this year as normally I'm away for Xmas. Usually there are sufficient club rides over the period to pretty much get it done but not to be this year in the end sadly, and TBH I'm not a huge fan of distance rides on my own especially in winter conditions.
I think in the end I mustered about 250k of rides but mostly doing stuff on Sufferfest rather than aiming for the distance. On the subject of Sufferfest, I'm really enjoying their new Inspiration workouts, mostly reasonably low intensity workouts while you watch a cycling related movie, I've really enjoyed the movies so far.
Someone I know has "done" the RF500 but pretty much entirely by joining group rides on Zwift and bashing out two and a half hour 100ks which doesn't seem in the spirit of it at all!
Just very therapeutic watching these dream builds. He did one of my bike a Genesis Croix de Fer ti.
https://youtu.be/Ri-yVzrC4QI
Cant beat a nice paint job
Looks like Fat Creations?
I need some advice from the TZ bicycle mechanics...
I was on a ride yesterday and was aware of a potential drive problem - when i pedalled the chain/rear sprockets would be `free` and there was no drive to the rear wheel.
Sometimes it would take a few revolutions of the pedals before it `caught` and i could then go on my way.
This was accompanied by noise from the rear sprockets assembly which suggested it was nearing the point where drive could be totally lost - and eventually it did.
We were about 6 miles from home so i rode the missus` bike home and she walked! It was her idea... I collected my stricken bike by driving the van to collect my locked bike when i got home.
So, i would think that there is some kind of ratchet or one-way clutch arrangement in the rear hub and the pawls or other associated gubbins has either worn out or are seized.
My question is, how do i remove the rear sprocket assembly (cassette?) using the special splined tool if the whole sprocket assembly is simply rotating due to the problem with it?
Dont the sprockets need to be `locked` as if you were pedalling for the tool to undo it?
In my case it just spins because the pawls are not catching?
Is it a left-hand thread?
Or, will it still come undone if i hold the sprockets still using a strap wrench and then use the splined tool at the same time?
I do remember changing these sprockets a few years ago but the issue at that time was that they were completely worn out (chain slipping) and i don`t remember exactly how i did it. I assume at that time the `clutch` was working and i was able to simply undo the sprockets with the splined tool whilst holding the wheel still.
*edit* my rear gears are the type where it`s all one piece rather than the separate hub/gears on the fancy bikes....
?
Last edited by E_2_Right-Force; 24th January 2021 at 12:47.
Please post a picture of it?
It sounds like you have a threaded freewheel though, in which case this should help:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/freewheels.html
And if it is the modern style of freewheel, where you undo the lock ring and the sprocket slides off the hub, it doesn't matter about the hub freely rotating. You use a chain whip to hold the sprocket in place and undo the lock ring, bracing against the chain whip.
These are brilliant btw. So much better than traditional chain whips:
https://www.decathlon.co.uk/p/chain-...over/_/R-p-200
Last edited by Bondurant; 24th January 2021 at 13:28.
Sounds like it needs a strip down maintenance, doubt it'll cure itself!
This may help.......or not depending on what hub system you have.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/sturmey-archer_3-spd.html
They are indeed a great tool, so much more secure than a traditional chain whip, not that E_2 will be needing one by the sound of things!
I’ve got the cassette pliers. Not cheap bit work a treat
https://www.parktool.com/category/cassette-freewheel
Ah, sounds like I have misunderstood, apologies.
I have absolutely no idea how internal hubs work.
Are they Sturmey Archer?
Here are the gears - Shimano `Hyperglide`.....
I assume the normal method of removal would be to insert the splined tool in the hub, hold the wheel firmly and simply undo the gears which are threaded onto the wheel hub by turning in a clockwise direction - the pawls/rachet system transfering the undoing torque from one half of the hub to the other (threaded side) - but how can i do that if the pawls are not engaging and the hub spins both ways?
I`m confused...(or just not thinking straight after the bottle of red i had last night...)
S`funny - i have been working on motorcycles for years and could probably rebuild one with my eyes shut, but repairing bicycles always seems to give me stress, they`re so awkward to hold securely and work on being one thing...
Park tools website has loads of videos and the required tools. (chain whip and cassette lock ring tool)
as for your freewheel? depends on what brand, some are a sealed unit usually removed with a large allen key 10-15mm. or it may be serviceable and you pull the freewheel off and scatter pawls and springs everywhere and then take it to the LBS to fix.
The pawls are gummed up for sure looking at the state of that, and you must have a rear derailleur to move the chain up/down the cassette and to take up the slack in the chain.
I would drop it off at your local bike shop for a free hub change. By the time you buy the chain whip and shimano cassette removing tool plus the free hub body, it will be cheaper to pop to the LBS.
8 speed Free hub will be from £10 Decathlon to £20 bike shop
Looking at your disk, give that a clean with a brillo pad, then dry off , then check your disk pads for wear whilst you have the wheel out.
Steve
Last edited by higham5; 24th January 2021 at 15:39.
Definitely needs a new cassette there. Sharp as a ninja star!
Is it just me, but I’m seeing a totally knackered and rusted rear wheel, knackered, rusty and broken spokes. Cassette doesn’t look too good either either.
I cant see any value in spending money on that, Just bin the lot and replace.
Cheers,
Ben
..... for I have become the Jedi of flippers
" an extravagance is anything you buy that is of no earthly use to your wife "
A sorry example of neglect 😢
Owner needs flogging...
It`s fixed!
It was much simpler than i had originally thought.
I assumed it was the type that is threaded and the whole shebang comes off the wheel (freewheel hub?) when it is in fact the `cassette` type (freehub? this bicycle terminology is confusing to a non-bicyclerist) where the gears are separate and slip on to a splined hub as in the image;
All it required was the correct dissasembly technique employing the right tools for the job - a chainwhip pair of gland nut pliers and a splined cassette removal tool piece of flat steel bar ground down to fit the splined cut-outs and hammered into place. I was able to undo the securing ring very easily (it wasn`t that tight) and then the whole set of gears came off.
Once the gears were off i used a small brush to drip parts washer cleaning solvent into the hub and the pawls almost instantly started working again.
The innards were certainly gummed up from years of abuse and lack of servicing (who services a bicycle....??) and the catalyst for this particular breakdown was probably the oil/grease inside the hub becoming too viscous in the cold weather preventing them from making contact and gripping.
Even though it`s now working i`d still like to dissasemble it further (inspect the internals of the freehub) to a: remove the parts washer solvent as parts washer solvent is not a lubricant, b: lube it properly, and c: being a mechanically inquisitive sort of chap i want to see how the thing works..
If anyone knows how to do that i`d be interested to know.
And thanks for pointing out the spoke - i`ll fix that.
And as for the grime, underneath the filth there is a perfectly preserved wheel! The layer of dirt and oil provides a sort of embalming effect..