Work on overcoming your size aversion and start to appreciate smaller (34-35mm) watches, then the world of vintage is your oyster.
Hi, I'm considering trading (or selling if I find the right watch to buy) my black SMP Ceramic (2014) for something little more formal and dressy (but not blingy).
I love the SMP but I am now moving more towards traditional strap watches in my tastes.
Many years ago, I used to have an Omega Deville Power Reserve in SS and have also had a JLC Master Reserve de Marche. Both were gorgeous dress watches and I regret parting with them both.
Anyway, they are long gone and my SMP isn't worth enough to get me a JLC and the Deville is now hard to find, so I'm looking at other options.
I may consider a cheaper pair rather than one single but that's not a firm requirement.
I have always liked the look of the Longines Heritage collection and specifically the Conquest and the Flagship.
However, I'm no expert in Longines or their movements so I wondered if the forum can offer some advice regarding them, both as watches in general and how they compare to each other i.e. movements, quality etc?
I like the Conquest three hander date and the chrono and the Flagship comes in a date version and in the 60th anniversary non date version.
One thing, I don't like or want a hesalite/plastic crystal. I appreciate that they are perhaps more true to the originals but that's a concession I'm happy to make as I just don't like hesalite, preferring the low maintenance robustness and more solid feel of sapphire.
Size wise I prefer under 40mm with 36mm - 37mm being the sweet spot for my 6.75" wrist. 35mm (like my 1960's SS Omega Geneve manual wind, non date) is just a little too small.
As well as hopefully offering advice on the Longines, perhaps you could offer suggestions for alternatives using the Deville and the JLC Master as indications of the kind of thing I'm after?
My budget is whatever my SMP ceramic is worth with either change/cash my way or straight swap, there's currently no option for cash from me, (well perhaps £100-£200 for something mega special and a deal too good to miss but otherwise not).
I will sell the SMP if I settle on something I really want but won't sell the SMP just on the off chance that I may find something I want more. That may sound daft but it's the way it is right now.
Vintage is a possibility but I'm not into distressed examples as I attach no value to the patina or signs of age they often come with, I like my watches to look nice and crisp not tatty and worn out. I respect others personal tastes in that regard but I'm not buying for them. Also vintage often comes in the just a little too small 35mm size and yes the hesalite crystal that I simply do not want.
Anyway, in the words of the late, great Stan Lee 'nuff said', I welcome your advice and opinions so long as they're friendly
Last edited by Orange Peel; 5th October 2020 at 15:39.
Work on overcoming your size aversion and start to appreciate smaller (34-35mm) watches, then the world of vintage is your oyster.
Hi Paul, I was expecting your input
I have a 35mm Omega Geneve MW, and, lovely as it is (and has sentimental value) it just wears too small, even on my fairly slim 6.75" wrist.
There are some lovely vintage options, Omega, JLC etc. out there but I want at least 36mm and I won't have hesalite, which kind of eliminates vintage I suppose?
Hope you're keeping well old boy?
Last edited by Orange Peel; 5th October 2020 at 15:40.
One of the watches, I really do regret, is the 38.5 Conquest Heritage Chrono. It had a black dial...it wasnt "vintage" though...but of course vintage inspired.
Ive not been able to get another one, the 38.5 was "just"! about big enough (to me!) for my wrist. The 35mm was just too small for me! I know its only 3mm...but I wear it...so if I think its too small....then it is!
Ive traded a watch with watchfinders for a black dialed Longines Heritage L2.750.4.96.0...........black dial and 41mm..
It looks great...hope it wears as well on me as it looks!
Not much help I know!
Ive seen a few Conquest Heritage for sale, not many...not in 3.5 mmn size though! Just 35mm...which I find sadly too small for me.
Ive even worn 35-38mm watches for a few days...to try to get used to the size...I just cant though! Weirdly though, the 38.5mm Conquest in a black dial.... was just about right!
That extra 0.5mm can make all the difference
I know what you mean though, on paper it's not much but it can make a notable difference to how the watch wears on the wrist.
People often don't realise that it's the lug to lug more than the watch case diameter that makes the most difference.
Why go second best? You can get the Deville 39.5mm for less than £3K off a high street AD?
https://www.mappinandwebb.com/Omega-...001/p/17331217
I have never owned a Longine but in my perception they are a rung below Omega / Rolex etc..
Last edited by MartynJC (UK); 6th October 2020 at 11:44.
Hi,
In your position, I would be tempted to keep the SMP - it's a classic. However because you're asking, have you thought about a Baume & Mercier Baumatic? It's COSC certified and got a good review on Hodinkee -> https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/ba...ic-cosc-review
It's available at main dealers at £2,250 and better deals seem to be available on Chrono24
https://www.mappinandwebb.com/Baume-...398/p/17710435
This is quite sweet.. £2250 verified dealer
https://www.chrono24.co.uk/omega/ome...id16443277.htm
Last edited by MartynJC (UK); 6th October 2020 at 23:06.
or omega deville - power reserve co-axial - for similar price £2300 or so - from Germany - https://www.chrono24.co.uk/omega/de-...-id7945381.htm
The Longines Conquest Heritage is a great little watch - 50s looks with without the vintage hassle and an easy to maintain ETA2824 inside. The steel cased silver dial model with gold indices goes with just about anything. They do a 35mm with plexi [which wears bigger than it sounds] and a 40mm with sapphire crystal, which sounds more up your street [but costs a bit more]. There's also a black face with rose gold indices, and an 18ct gold cased model.
It won't win the snob-appeal Olympics, but it's a better looking dress watch than almost anything else out there. I should buy one!
Have you considered Vulcain - they do some nice dress watches...
... but I would say that...
z
What about this one?
Price isnt "too" bad, may well be able to negotiate a better price?
(Watchfinders),
I did have one, bought it new! Then sold it (for a loss of course!) in the sales corner here.
I love that version of the PR, I had the white dial version and wish I still had it, but I'm not a fan of the grey dial. To be honest I'd prefer not to buy from abroad, I'm sure most are fine but it's the hassle should anything go wrong or the watch not be what it seemed?
They do look sweet and snobbery isn't an issue as Longines are a decent and well respected brand.
The 35mm may well wear larger than my vintage 34mm Omega Geneve manual wind but it would have the hesalite crystal which I don't want. Do they do the 35mm with sapphire?
The 40mm sapphire version is nice but may wear a little too large, 36-38mm is the 'sweet spot' for me but I won't know unless I try one on?
They are sometimes heavily discounted at Gemnation
z
Yes the Flagship is very nice and at 38mm it is in the 'sweet spot' for size on me.
Is it me or is that date misaligned? Perhaps it's just not fully completed it's changeover on this shot?
Longines also do a very nice non-date version of both the Flagship (60th anniversary) and the Conquest but I think the Conquest is only in 35mm with a hesalite crystal and the Flagship...I don't know about that one regarding size and spec as I can't find any.
I bought a Longines Heritage Flagship this summer and enjoy it very much.
Bought it as a more dressier option, but over the summer I wore it on a mesh band which made it a bit more casual.
The date on mine is aligned nicely, not sure what is going on in that picture.
It wears quite slim on my ca. 17 cm wrist, and the accuracy is around -6 or so seconds a day.
I went into the London Boutique originally eyeing the 1832 Moonphase as my purchase, but trying them on the slightly smaller size as well as the very nice cream dial made me go for the Flagship.
Let me know if you would like to know anything specific.
/Rasmus
Thanks, I have umm'd and arr'd about the cream dial, usually preferring a white or silver dial on a dress watch as it seems to catch the light better.
What are your thoughts on the cream dial in the 'flesh' so to speak? Does it in any way dampen the watches dressy zing?
I believe it is a sapphire crystal, is that correct and does it have any AR at all?
Some pics would be good if it's not a total PITA, not to worry if not.
Thanks
I love mine. When I used to go to work (anyone else remember doing this?) it was my favourite as 35mm (but mainly dial so wears larger) is a great size, easily fitted under my cuff and the vintage looks have made it one of my favourite watches. My wrist is somewhere around ~6 3/4-7”.
In answer to the OP’s reluctance to Hesalite, it gives a warmth to the dial you just don’t get with Sapphire. No issues with scratches either in the two years I have owned it.
Last edited by andyd30; 7th October 2020 at 20:28.
Left handed also and with six non-sapphire watches currently in my collection, the only one I have ever had the crystal replaced on came to me with damage...they are readily available in Longines dealers and for the price, I would suggest if still uncertain on the size, you would know for sure by trying one on.
I’ve got the 18k version of the conquest. A beautiful watch for sure, but they’re a bit thick for my taste so it almost always loses out to my sixties gold UG. Not a great photo, sorry.
Last edited by HookedSeven; 9th October 2020 at 00:17.
I’ve taken a side-by-side shot of a 34mm Omega DeVille next to the Conquest, but Flickr seems to be down so I can post it right now. I’ll edit and add it when it starts working again. I think a big visual difference comes from the thickness of the lugs on the Conquest. Perhaps that helps it to wear bigger.
Last edited by HookedSeven; 9th October 2020 at 14:48.
Snagged a few pics this morning, hope they are of use and sorry for the slight blur on nr. 2
Last edited by Rasmus_ep; 9th October 2020 at 15:51.
Hi Mr Peel (joke) -
I spotted this on one of my favourite resellers - maybe just what you are looking for at the right price??
https://blowers-jewellers.co.uk/prod...-40-21-02-003/
Sweet price
(pic from their site). .... maybe mention my name in passing.. All the best. Martyn
Thanks Martyn, yes I do like these, although not as much as the previous power reserve model I had. I've never been a huge numeral fan, especially roman, preferring simple stick markers but numerals can look sweet on the right watch and this doesn't look bad at all. Not as pretty as the Longines but still nice and good quality build too.
I'll check out the price but doubt he'll give me anything decent for mine so I'd have to sell first.
Thanks for the heads up.
Just checked it out and it looks a decent price (for a dealer) but still at £2,450 it's out of budget unless someone offers me that for mine?
Mind you, I'd rather have a black strap than a blue one (it's a dress watch after all) but I do like the blued markers and hands, much more legible than the plain polished ones.
I’ve been wearing the conquest most days for the past 5 years after acquiring one on this forum. Have to say, you hardly feel it’s on your wrist. The time keeping has been spot on and the case/hesalite crystal had fared better than I I had thought. Longines are an underrated brand but with a rich history. For the price point, they offer good value. I’ve recently bought the sector dial model. Will post some pics soon.
A couple of wider shots on the wrist (ca. 17 cm).
Thanks, that helps.
It is a lovely thing isn't it, seems a perfect fit on your wrist.
Mine are a 6.75" so around 17cm-17cm give or take so more or less the same as yours.
Mine are less wide across the top but a little thicker, which would impact on how a Watch wears of course but it's a great indication so thanks again.