Originally Posted by
Haywood_Milton
I start with an extract from an article I'm writing :
"Four digit model refs like 1601 were 1575 calibre Datejust versions with no quick-set date change.
Where there is later a fifth digit, such as 16013, the fifth numeral reflects the metal used to make the specific watch head (0=s/steel, 3=steel+yellow gold, 4=steel+white gold, 8=18ct yellow gold). This first five digit series introduced the 3035 calibre with quickset date change.
Then came the 3135 calibre series, denoted by a change to the middle digits (16013 became 16233, 16014 became 16234 and 16030 became 16220.
An additional 1 prefix came in circa 2004 (such as 116233) which denoted the fatter new cases with upgraded bracelets.
Most recently, the second digit changed to a 2 (126233) to denote the latest, increased case sizes."
Beware: a watch may show "1601/3" on paperwork, but what matters is that between the lugs it shows 1601 or 16013.
Turning more to your post, I would recommend against the older, four-digit models here. From what you write, you are looking for a 16014 / 16234 with white metal fluted bezel, on Jubilee 62510 bracelet.
3035 and 3135 calibres are both great, so for me the greatest distinction between a 16014 and a 16234 would be the softer, acrylic glass of the former versus the harder, synthetic sapphire glass of the latter. Both will have fans, but expect to pay more for the sapphire generation.
Yes, 16030 / 16220 bezels are engine-turned and steel while 16014 / 16234 are fluted and "white metal." Retailers aren't supposed to call it what it is here, thanks to the Hallmarking Act 1973 and its view of mixed metals, but these white metal bezels are in fact 18ct white gold. Do NOT make the mistake (repeated even by main agents) of thinking that any other part of a 16014 / 16234 is "white metal." The ignorant commonly think that the bracelet also comprises mixed metals but it does not; they retain the same, all-stainless 62510 (the "0" being significant!) as the 16200 / 16220.
Note that the later years of the 16234 saw the lugs become solid such that their predecessors' visible pin-holes, through which one could push the spring-bars, disappeared.
Haywood