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Thread: High end horology - what's the best value brand?

  1. #1

    High end horology - what's the best value brand?

    Inspired by attending last night's George Daniels lecture by Stephen Forsey I've spent the last couple of hours looking at high end horology. I have a birthday with a 0 in it shortly and have an excuse to treat myself.

    I've always loved Greubel Forsey and many other high end brands like de Bethune, Urwerk, FP Journe, MB&F etc.

    Given it takes the best part of a year for a highly trained and paid Swiss watchmaker to make some of these, there's a reason they are eye wateringly expensive.

    If i wanted to dabble in this area, what brands give the best bang for buck in this elite space?

    To qualify i think it has to be from an independent house with low volume, unique design, mostly in house made, and gorgeous. Perhaps unfairly, I'm not looking for anything by Patek, Vacheron, AP, Rolex or other "High Street" brands, although I've always hankered after a JLC Duometre.

    I'd have to buy second hand, so watches with huge depreciation welcome.

    What have you seen that's interesting?

  2. #2
    Grand Master Wallasey Runner's Avatar
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    Blancpain might be worth a look, high quality and fairly low numbers of watches made. Good deals on second hand watches can be found, less so on the limited editions.

  3. #3
    “High Street” might be problematic these days, where does one draw the boundaries (FPJ how having 12 shops, for example)?

    Prolly best to just get what you like?

    I think though, perversely, the best value and most enlightened outcome might be to approach a grand maison for something unique. Imagine what someone in Breguet, say, might be able to produce for you?

  4. #4
    Grand Master blackal's Avatar
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    Dornbluth ?

  5. #5
    Master alfat33's Avatar
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    I think you probably want a niche brand but if you are interested in a Duometre make sure you have a chance to look at one up close. Mine is a couple of levels above my Geographic in terms of finishing and the beauty of the movement (and the Geographic is pretty good). They are made separately from the ‘ordinary’ JLCs using materials and techniques that the really high end makers use. They are also used as a base for some very rarified limited edition tourbillon versions. I was lucky enough to be shown one of those - the watchmaker asked me to be careful with it as was one of nine.

    Not trying to sway you away from your dream, but don’t rule them out.

    They also depreciate fiercely, thankfully for me.

  6. #6
    Craftsman
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    H Moser & Cie may fit the bill and represent great value pre-owned in my view.

  7. #7
    Moser or Parmigiani would be my pick. My Patek went when it didn’t seem so special anymore after experiencing what these two put out.

  8. #8
    Grand Master ryanb741's Avatar
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    I think the suggestions already in this thread are a bit mainstream for the OP who is looking for ultra high end horology. Much as Patek, Blancpain etc are nice they can't be considered ultra high end.

    What I've heard from someone who used to sell super high end pieces in London is that Greubel Forssey watches were the most incredible pieces he'd handled. Just extraordinarily well made. Personally I find the styling a tad outlandish and would go for something from FP Journe if funds permitted - a lovely Chronometre Souverain would hit the spot.

  9. #9
    Craftsman
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    Don't know if that fits your criteria for high end, but something like Corum Golden Bridge or a Ulysse Nardin Freak might be worth a look?
    Or one of the fancier Piaget Altiplanos like this new ultimate automatic model maybe, that depreciated 10k in one year:
    https://www.chrono24.com/piaget/alti...3_5nxY6P&pos=4

  10. #10
    My ultimate grail timepiece would be one crafted by, in my considered opinion, one of the world's best Master Watchmakers.

    Mr Philippe Dufour

    Thirty years ago it was possible that I could have just about afforded one.

    But now..........................

  11. #11
    Grand Master Saint-Just's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Topcat30093 View Post
    My ultimate grail timepiece would be one crafted by, in my considered opinion, one of the world's best Master Watchmakers.

    Mr Philippe Dufour

    Thirty years ago it was possible that I could have just about afforded one.

    But now..........................
    I would agree with that, the simplicity is just sublime. Roger Smith would be another, since you mention Daniels.
    Someone like Kari Voutilainen might be worth a look, or in a very affordable way his "pupil", Sarpaneva (SUF).

    In the "big" brands I would say Breguet and L&S.
    'Against stupidity, the gods themselves struggle in vain' - Schiller.

  12. #12
    Master
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    Lets be frank - the phrases 'High End Horology' and 'Good Value' are complete oxymorons! In any rational analysis, any watch costing over Ł50 is a complete and utter waste of money. We buy these things with our heart not head...the only question is what a particular watch is worth to you.

  13. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by JGJG View Post
    I think though, perversely, the best value and most enlightened outcome might be to approach a grand maison for something unique. Imagine what someone in Breguet, say, might be able to produce for you?
    Thant sounds great - but to be honest my wallet puts me firmly in the preowned side of the market.

    Quote Originally Posted by blackal View Post
    Dornbluth ?
    I love Dirk's work, and will definitely get a 99.2 some day, but that's (it hurts me to say this) a grade or two below what's on my mind.


    Quote Originally Posted by alfat33 View Post
    I think you probably want a niche brand but if you are interested in a Duometre make sure you have a chance to look at one up close.
    I will definitely look again. The only version I've tried was a rose gold one, and it did go well with my freckly skin tone. I love the jumping seconds - it's captivating.


    Quote Originally Posted by Gerald Genta View Post
    H Moser & Cie may fit the bill and represent great value pre-owned in my view.
    The Pioneer Retrograde Seconds is a beauty. Definitely would need to see it on the wrist though - my only hesitation is the colour.


    Quote Originally Posted by Danstone View Post
    Moser or Parmigiani would be my pick.
    I love the Parmigiani Toric Hemispheres Retrograde - the others are a bit too sporty for my taste.

    Quote Originally Posted by neuman356 View Post
    Don't know if that fits your criteria for high end, but something like Corum Golden Bridge or a Ulysse Nardin Freak might be worth a look?
    Or one of the fancier Piaget Altiplanos like this new ultimate automatic model maybe, that depreciated 10k in one year:
    https://www.chrono24.com/piaget/alti...3_5nxY6P&pos=4
    That Piaget is gorgeous! I'd forgotten about the Freak - just looked up the new 2024 enamel version - very nice.

    Quote Originally Posted by Saint-Just View Post
    I would agree with that, the simplicity is just sublime. Roger Smith would be another, since you mention Daniels.
    Someone like Kari Voutilainen might be worth a look, or in a very affordable way his "pupil", Sarpaneva (SUF).

    I remember their display ar Salon QP about a decade ago - loved their watches in the flesh. Especially the Sarpaneva dial and moon faces.

    In the "big" brands I would say Breguet and L&S.
    Two of the best. A Grand Lange is almost perfection and the Breguet Tradition was a grail for me for a long time.

  14. #14
    Master
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    Go different.

    Go Ressence.


  15. #15
    Master
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    High End?? Not sure but I would consider these high end because I can't afford either

    https://www.mcgonigle.ch/

    https://singerreimagined.com/

    In reality I do think something highly technical over cost should be the real winner and I like JLC for this category. It is the watchmakers watch after all.

  16. #16
    Master
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  17. #17

  18. #18
    Master alfat33's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rev-O View Post
    I love them both, hadn’t seen them before. Have to keep them wound - can you imagine setting them?

  19. #19
    Master
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    Oh hell yes!
    Quote Originally Posted by Rev-O View Post

  20. #20
    Master
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    Have a look at a Armin Strom resonance. You can customise case material and dial colours etc too though price jumps up.
    Or a Grönefeld remontoire.

  21. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by Rev-O View Post
    Top shout - the verve of a Jacob & Co, but for people who aren’t circus clowns. Glorious.

  22. #22
    Quote Originally Posted by JP28 View Post
    Or a Grönefeld remontoire.
    I think a chap in work had to have that for his gallstones.

  23. #23
    Quote Originally Posted by jk103 View Post
    Bloody hell.

    I can imagine Tyson Fury wearing one of these.

    On the flip side, I hear Swiss craic isn't up to much.

    Maybe it's a Catholic / Protestant thing?

    Proof that some countries / cultures do some things really well -- and should stay in their lane.

  24. #24
    Craftsman
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    Moser Endeavour with a special dial such as the enamel would get my vote. Or pushing the budget, a Lange Datograph, stunning movement finishing.

  25. #25
    Craftsman
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    How about urwerk or de Bethune ,

    - - - Updated - - -

    How about urwerk or de Bethune ,

  26. #26
    Master helidoc's Avatar
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    High end horology - what's the best value brand?

    Difficult, I’m certainly not much of an expert.

    I think the most interesting stuff at this level is Rexhep, Frederique Berthoud and Romain Gauthier, but non of this is accessible, even used. Gronefeld has phenomenal movement finishing, although the watches aren’t that attractive.

    Breguet are good value used as the depreciation is heavy, but I’m not sure they are that interesting, although I think the Tradition is OK.

    If I had to offer a suggestion, I think it would be a Lange 1, although after a brief Chrono24 search, they aren’t cheap

    D


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  27. #27
    Craftsman
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    How about de Bethune or urwerk

  28. #28
    Master earlofsodbury's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Filterlab View Post
    Go different.

    Go Ressence.


    I personally love these, thoroughly clever devices, but if ever there was a high-end watch that will always be mistaken for a smartwatch, it's these...

    Of course, that may well be their appeal to some I guess.

  29. #29
    Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by earlofsodbury View Post
    I personally love these, thoroughly clever devices, but if ever there was a high-end watch that will always be mistaken for a smartwatch, it's these...

    Of course, that may well be their appeal to some I guess.
    There is that of course, but the way they move looks anything like a smartwatch. Good conversation starter of course.

  30. #30
    Master
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    I don't think you can go far wrong with a pre-owned Breguet, but also, how about something like this Armin Strom?

    https://www.fratellowatches.com/hot-...edition/#pid=7

  31. #31
    Grand Master ryanb741's Avatar
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    Anyway the correct answer is Credor Eichi II

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