Reply With QuoteYes - b is not closing fully, and may even be jammed open fully.
It's that time of year when the gremlins creep in to the heating and water and at the weekend they got to us.
The problem we have is the rads are getting warm when the hot water comes on. Google tells me this is likely to be a fault with the valve/actuator on the heating side.
What Google doesn't help with is exactly which is the heating side.
I'm assuming that given the locations A is the hot water valve and B the problem heating side?
I'm intending on buying a straight replacement and wiring it into the convient 5 pin plug already fitted, just looking for confirmation that I'm not completely wrong with my assumptions.
Thanks in advance.
Yes - b is not closing fully, and may even be jammed open fully.
Excellent, thanks for the speedy reply, this place really does have the answer to everything .
I'll make a donation to the fundraiser with the money I've saved on a plumber.
My apologies if I am teaching you to suck eggs but before you buy a replacement it is worth checking what has actually failed.
The motorised valve is formed of two main parts:
1. The motor/actuator part
2. The valve which (1) above opens and closes.
If part 1 has failed, it is usually an easy fix.
Whereas if part 2 has failed, the system usually needs to be drained down, unless there are isolators either side of the valve body to allow it to be removed easily.
The valves usually have a manual over-ride (lever) so you should be able to tell if the valve itself is stuck or moving freely.
HTH.
You can confirm A or B by putting the hot water on via the timer and hear the valve actuating.
You should be able to change the motor yourself - depending upon the model some just clip on/off.
Make sure the power is off as they run at 240v also while the motor is off make sure the valve turns OK inside the valve body.
You can change the valve yourself too, but that's more involved - motor should be an easy DIY job .
Thanks for the tips, I was going to pop off the actuator and see if I could move the valve easily, it should just be finger tight?
If the brass valve is stuck then I'm on the phone to a pro, I'm at the edge of my comfort zone as it is.
Hmm, with the actuator removed and the hot water switched on with the valve looking closed the rads are getting warm. The valve moves ok but perhaps not completely to the horizontal?
I fear I'm out of my depth and nearing the need for a pro.
Last edited by kace; 30th September 2024 at 12:53.
I’ve long had a “sticky” hot water valve that sometimes fails to close properly, which leads to the hot water getting stuck on and heating for longer than necessary. I’ve also once had what you describe with your rads warming slightly thanks to that valve not closing completely on shutting off the heating the night previously.
I’ve always found just removing the boxes themselves and gently manipulating the valve with a small pair of pliers or similar sorts the issue. In fact I haven’t had the hot water stick on for a long while now.
As others have said, the actuators themselves are easy to replace, but if the valve has failed it’s probably a job for a plumber. Good luck!
Not at all - get a new acatuator and replace it - I think there are only about 2 types so easy enough to get. They usually come with a "plug" to unplug/connect the new one. If the existing has a plug on it - do check the colours carefully as although there is an established colour scheme not all plumbers stick to it.Originally Posted by kace
Thanks for the tips, I was going to pop off the actuator and see if I could move the valve easily, it should just be finger tight?
If the brass valve is stuck then I'm on the phone to a pro, I'm at the edge of my comfort zone as it is.
Hmm, with the actuator removed and the hot water switched on with the valve looking closed the rads are getting warm. The valve moves ok but perhaps not completely to the horizontal?
I fear I'm out of my depth and nearing the need for a pro.
@peck I've done just that, popped off the actuator, wiggled the valve and popped it all back together. I'll wait for it all to cool and try and before I rush to Screwfix.
Thanks for all the help.
As this is a watch forum, I can confirm that a sinn u50 fully tegimented with it's 500m wr was the perfect watch.
Will do. Thanks.Not at all - get a new acatuator and replace it - I think there are only about 2 types so easy enough to get. They usually come with a "plug" to unplug/connect the new one. If the existing has a plug on it - do check the colours carefully as although there is an established colour scheme not all plumbers stick to it.
Last edited by kace; 30th September 2024 at 13:12.
I had an actuator go, a light tap used to kick it into life. Was pretty easy to swap out diy once I worked out it was faulty
I have just noticed the plugs in your last photo. Just watch and follow the plug wiring, not whatever the instructions say so the right wires do the right thing. Its the Orange & Grey I think that can get swapped around depending on the previous plumber.@peck I've done just that, popped off the actuator, wiggled the valve and popped it all back together. I'll wait for it all to cool and try and before I rush to Screwfix.
Thanks for all the help.
As this is a watch forum, I can confirm that a sinn u50 fully tegimented with it's 500m wr was the perfect watch.
Will do. Thanks.
Knew the wrist shot would come in handy.
Thanks again.
With those valves, you often get them passing when there is a bit of muck / debris fouling the valve internally and stopping it closing against the open port properly. Sometimes a new head with a stronger spring back can solve the issue - usually temporarily.
Sometimes the brass spindle under the head is sticking, for the same kind of reasons, bit of muck or corrosion. Sometimes you can give the spindle a good old wiggle with some pliers and get it moving freely again - usually temporarily.
Best course of action for a permanent fix is to change the whole thing, valve body and head. To change the body you will need to drain or bung the system.
My plumber taught me this when he was too busy to get out to me. Worked well once you knew where to tap it. Handle of a screwdriver type tap, before anyone gets a lump hammer on it!
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Pipework going into the hw cylinder is also a clue.
One of the most useful household things I did was lookup s and y plan systems and how they work.
I always assumed they were carefully coordinated, but it’s just a series of switches on the valve heads in reality.
Valve head motors are usually straightforward to replace.
"Bite my shiny metal ass."
- Bender Bending Rodríguez
Just to add you can also just buy the actuator motor and swap that (they look like Drayton heads) instead of the whole actuator.
But do try as most said take the actuator head off, spray a little wd40 on the top of the valve and give the valve itself some open and shut movements (they usually crust up over the summer months as they are not opening/closing)
A small adjustable closed tight on top of the valve stem works well and gives more feedback to you when moving the valve as with pliers they waddle about too much.
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