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Thread: Can anyone offer any double glazing/sound proofing advice?

  1. #1

    Can anyone offer any double glazing/sound proofing advice?

    The double glazing in my house is 20 years old and although in good condition is crap at noise reduction.
    The house is a normal sized 3 bed detached.
    I am keen to minimise noise at the front of the house, specifically the front bay window and master bedroom.
    The bay window is 4 panels with 2 openings and the bedroom has 3 panels with 2 openings.
    I have been looking at acoustic glass double glazing (whole windows/frames, not just the glass). Is this worth the extra expense and could anyone offer a ballpark cost for the 2 windows? Many thanks
    Last edited by ODP; 7th April 2024 at 16:28.

  2. #2
    Master
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    I’m not an expert but I think the fitting is important. Lots of suppliers for the windows poorly with huge gaps that are then barely filled with cheap foam

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by Rodder View Post
    I’m not an expert but I think the fitting is important. Lots of suppliers for the windows poorly with huge gaps that are then barely filled with cheap foam
    Interesting, thank you

  4. #4
    If the acoustic glazing is anything like that fitted to cars, it should be amazing.
    "Bite my shiny metal ass."
    - Bender Bending Rodríguez

  5. #5
    Master
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    When I lived next to the main east coast main line and was changing the windows I was advised to have the glass pains different thickness in the panel to stop different frequencies, I ended up not hearing the trains but felt them instead. When the MOD paid for new windows in all the houses around RAF leeming when the Tornado was there they always put triple glazing in.


    Sent from my iPhone using TZ-UK mobile app

  6. #6
    For sound the spacing and thickness is important, it’s better to have different thickness’s of glass and gaps so 4mm glass/7mm gap/6mm glass is better than 6/6/6 glass/gap/glass as sound has to move through different densities which cuts it down more than when they are all the same. You may find a wide double glazed unit performs better than a poorly specced equally spaced triple glazed unit.
    Secondary glazing with a 10cm plus gap is even better than double glazing, we had some fitted as not allowed to remove the original Crittall windows and it made a huge difference.
    You can also get a laminated pane in your glazing (Stadep sound glass) which cuts down sound due to the 2panes and the density of the laminate film being different, it’s quite expensive though.

  7. #7
    Craftsman AndyRS2113's Avatar
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    Oct 2010
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    Snowy Leicestershire
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    I sell high quality Austrian made windows and doors for a living to large commercial construction projects across the UK. All are triple glazed, and see a minimum of 34dB Rw (reduction across the octave band) and can go up to 48dB Rw if required with the correct glass build including acoustic interlayers. See instagram video below showing 48dB Rw at one of my recent projects in Harrow.

    https://www.instagram.com/reel/C0zSo...15eHQ0NjA1bG1j

    Any queries at all, shoot me a message

    Andy

  8. #8
    Just had two windows replaced that face a busy road. A large bay and normal one. Went for accoustic glazing with different thickness panes and laminated. I also took the opportunity to upgrade the insulation in the bay and above it with accoustic insulation. Also went to great lengths to stress to installers how much of a priority noise reduction was. They worked hard to minise gaps, then filled with accoustic sealant. I then refined the bay with soundboard rather than plasterboard.

    Has made a huge difference. Would throughly recommend it.

    Interestingly they insisted on trickle vents as new regs make them compulsory which is very odd when going to great lengths to avoid sound leakage. Tbh I just kept them closed, and if I was really bothered I could unscrew the covers and seal them up. Not felt necessary given the improvements.

  9. #9
    Master
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    With a lot of bays fitted they have double glazing then top and bottom are just a bit of plywood with lead on top. So much heat is lost and cold let in.

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