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Thread: What's out there for under 12k?

  1. #1
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    What's out there for under 12k?

    This could have been titled 'talk me out of buying a sub date'.
    I'm looking for a daily watch to wear, probably not a dress watch, I normally plod around in jeans and a sweatshirt.
    I've got a budget of 12k and I'd prefer something either new or at least in really good condition.
    I've had Rolex subs in the past and like them but don't want to miss out on something I don't know about.
    Over the years I've tried Omegas and Panerais but don't fancy another right now. I'm looking online at IWC and JLC but nothing's particularly jumping out. Not really thinking about resale value right now although I don't want to take a bath if I ever sold it.
    Is there anything else out there that I should consider before taking the plunge on a sub? I've found brand new ones for 11k ish. Don't want to hang around for an AD to source me one.
    I'd be very grateful for the forum's thoughts.

  2. #2
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    You can’t beat and IWC Mark XX with bracelet and strap options for a daily.



    Last edited by Montello; 10th March 2024 at 12:09.

  3. #3
    Grand Master learningtofly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by djman View Post
    This could have been titled 'talk me out of buying a sub date'.
    I'm looking for a daily watch to wear, probably not a dress watch, I normally plod around in jeans and a sweatshirt.
    I've got a budget of 12k and I'd prefer something either new or at least in really good condition.
    I've had Rolex subs in the past and like them but don't want to miss out on something I don't know about.
    Over the years I've tried Omegas and Panerais but don't fancy another right now. I'm looking online at IWC and JLC but nothing's particularly jumping out. Not really thinking about resale value right now although I don't want to take a bath if I ever sold it.
    Is there anything else out there that I should consider before taking the plunge on a sub? I've found brand new ones for 11k ish. Don't want to hang around for an AD to source me one.
    I'd be very grateful for the forum's thoughts.
    I’d be thinking BLNR before a plain sub. Should be available as mint and complete at least close to your budget.



    Edit: and yes, a pre-loved Fifty Fathoms automatic would be a great shout too.
    Last edited by learningtofly; 10th March 2024 at 12:38.

  4. #4
    Grand Master Sinnlover's Avatar
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    I would have a serious look at the GO SeaQ or UN diver (chrono).

    https://www.ulysse-nardin.com/uk_en/watches/diver

    https://www.glashuette-original.com/...on/spezialist/

    Both a bit marmite but more interesting than the more obvious options. (To me)

    https://www.blancpain.com/en/collect...oms-collection

    The Bathyscaphe also has some interesting versions

  5. #5
    Master sweets's Avatar
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    How about a JLC Polaris? Pretty much every complication could be had within budget (simple 3 hander date, Memovox, chronograph, chronograph WT, maybe not the Perpetual calendar)
    I think most of the range are very attractively elegant and understated.

  6. #6
    Master beechcustom's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by learningtofly View Post
    I’d be thinking BLNR before a plain sub. Should be available as mint and complete at least close to your budget
    Good shout but why not save even more and go with a 116710LN? The black black black GMT is as versatile as a Sub but imo is much more interesting and as such is a better buy. I much prefer the busier bezel and you get a genuinely useful GMT complication.


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  7. #7
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    There are a lot of good options about at under 12k but imo they don’t beat a sub for a daily wearer.
    Hype aside, it has “classic” status for a reason.

  8. #8
    Grand Master wileeeeeey's Avatar
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    I would be giving these guys a call.

    I’ve not used them before (currently halfway through buying something there) but they’re meant to be good guys according to the forum and that’s a great price.


  9. #9
    Master blackal's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wileeeeeey View Post
    I would be giving these guys a call.

    I’ve not used them before (currently halfway through buying something there) but they’re meant to be good guys according to the forum and that’s a great price.

    That does indeed - seem a good price for what should be an imaculate watch.

  10. #10
    Master sish101's Avatar
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    Go vintage, young man. All suitable as daily wears. £12K would easily get you something tasty with cash to spare.

  11. #11
    Grand Master TaketheCannoli's Avatar
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    £12k is a hell of a lot of money to throw at a watch so I’d suggest, if there’s nothing you really want, don’t bother.

  12. #12
    Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sinnlover View Post
    I would have a serious look at the GO SeaQ or UN diver (chrono).

    https://www.ulysse-nardin.com/uk_en/watches/diver

    https://www.glashuette-original.com/...on/spezialist/

    Both a bit marmite but more interesting than the more obvious options. (To me)

    https://www.blancpain.com/en/collect...oms-collection

    The Bathyscaphe also has some interesting versions
    Good choices all. I have these 2 from the above list, both brought used (near new, excellent condition) for well under £12k (both retail for above that)

    While I absolutely understand the allure of a sub having had a sub c date (and wanting another one!), I would argue that both of these are a big step up from the sub horologically speaking.

    Good luck with your choice, there's some fine watches available for that kind of money.




  13. #13
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    Thanks for all these brilliant suggestions. I like the look of the GO range and the Blancpains, although I wonder if the FF will be too big. The Bathyscape looks interesting. Didn't realise those BLNR's could be had so reasonably, I'll investigate further.
    I'd also thought about vintage, but perhaps an old 16600 or a two line sub ...
    I do really like the submariners, especially the thought of the new 41mm case, but I'm now going to try to see some of these other watches in the flesh before making a decision.
    I might take a closer look at Grand Seiko too, I think they have a boutique now in Bond Street.

  14. #14
    Master earlofsodbury's Avatar
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    If I had that kind of budget, I'd almost certainly end-up with a Blancpain Bathyscaphe or Glashutte Original SeaQ Panoramadate, but Cartier Santos Chrono, Chopard Alpine Eagle, Breguet Type XX and the recent Zenith Pilot Big Date Flyback would also be strong contenders.

    This link is worth a browse. If you expand your search outside the UK, there's obviously massively more choice, but you need to allow up to 30% more for all the many duties, charges, currency-conversion &c.

    Nice dilemma to have.

  15. #15
    Master
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    You’ll be knee deep in Rolex at that price point. I guess it’s worth thinking whether you would look at vintage. This could encompass wonderful chronographs from Zenith, Universal Geneve , Heuer.
    The GP Laureato is an option

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by earlofsodbury View Post
    If I had that kind of budget, I'd almost certainly end-up with a Blancpain Bathyscaphe or Glashutte Original SeaQ Panoramadate, but Cartier Santos Chrono, Chopard Alpine Eagle, Breguet Type XX and the recent Zenith Pilot Big Date Flyback would also be strong contenders.

    This link is worth a browse. If you expand your search outside the UK, there's obviously massively more choice, but you need to allow up to 30% more for all the many duties, charges, currency-conversion &c.

    Nice dilemma to have.

    Some TASTY watches on that link. The blue dialled GP Laueato seems like a good buy at £8950. wasn’t long ago they were selling at well over RRP and were difficult to get hold of.

    https://www.chrono24.co.uk/girardper..._SgA8zl&pos=34

  17. #17
    Grand Master learningtofly's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skip View Post
    Some TASTY watches on that link…
    That Moser…

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by earlofsodbury View Post
    If I had that kind of budget, I'd almost certainly end-up with a Blancpain Bathyscaphe or Glashutte Original SeaQ Panoramadate, but Cartier Santos Chrono, Chopard Alpine Eagle, Breguet Type XX and the recent Zenith Pilot Big Date Flyback would also be strong contenders.

    This link is worth a browse. If you expand your search outside the UK, there's obviously massively more choice, but you need to allow up to 30% more for all the many duties, charges, currency-conversion &c.

    Nice dilemma to have.
    Thanks for this link, really appreciated. That blue dial Moser on black rubber strap is lovely.

  19. #19
    Grand Master ryanb741's Avatar
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    Personally I'd go for a green dial GP Laureato.

  20. #20
    Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by ryanb741 View Post
    Personally I'd go for a green dial GP Laureato.
    You and me both. Couple at Watchfinder at the moment. I’ve spent long hours looking at them working out how i can swing it! Full set one here for £10205 -

    https://www.watchfinder.co.uk/Girard...29/item/280306

    Theres also one without box for £8985.

  21. #21
    Master
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    If the assumption is a three-hander then Zenith Defy Skyline (£8300):

    https://www.zenith-watches.com/en_gb...0-3620-51-i001

    And if you fancy a chrono then the Chronomaster Sport (£10700):

    https://www.zenith-watches.com/en_gb...nomaster-sport

  22. #22
    Something from Chopard would be lovely, and possibly less cliched than a high volume diver?

    But really, if I was spending £12k I wouldn’t be doing it without knowing my own tastes; at any hint of needing the views/encouragement of strangers (albeit lovely, informed strangers) on the internet, I think I’d limit myself to £12 (sans k) until I had decided what I did and didn’t like.

  23. #23
    (And I don’t mean to imply for a moment that there’s anything wrong in not knowing one’s own taste - it’s a process, and we all change).

    It’s worth remembering though that you’ve had subs before, according to your OP, so presumably there’s a reason you got rid of them before and that reason may prevail again should you get another.

  24. #24
    Master beechcustom's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JGJG View Post
    But really, if I was spending £12k I wouldn’t be doing it without knowing my own tastes; at any hint of needing the views/encouragement of strangers (albeit lovely, informed strangers) on the internet, I think I’d limit myself to £12 (sans k) until I had decided what I did and didn’t like.
    In fairness he wants a Sub as a daily and is asking for alternatives that he may not have considered.

  25. #25
    Grand Master wileeeeeey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ryanb741 View Post
    Personally I'd go for a green dial GP Laureato.
    Will be a great suggestion for the what can I get for £6k or less thread this time next year.

  26. #26
    Quote Originally Posted by beechcustom View Post
    In fairness he wants a Sub as a daily and is asking for alternatives that he may not have considered.
    Yep - entirely fair point.

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by beechcustom View Post
    In fairness he wants a Sub as a daily and is asking for alternatives that he may not have considered.
    Exactly this.

    Thanks for all the great suggestions, it led to me spending - yet another - Sunday hunched over a laptop staring at endless online reviews of watches.
    A ceramic sub is still in my brain somewhere, but now so too is a Blancpain FF and a Bathyscaphe and a GO and an old 16600 ... thanks again, much appreciated, really helpful.

  28. #28
    Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by djman View Post
    Exactly this.

    Thanks for all the great suggestions, it led to me spending - yet another - Sunday hunched over a laptop staring at endless online reviews of watches.
    A ceramic sub is still in my brain somewhere, but now so too is a Blancpain FF and a Bathyscaphe and a GO and an old 16600 ... thanks again, much appreciated, really helpful.
    A great conundrum to be in! With regards to the BP FF, i was able to try on both the steel and titanium models on a recent visit to the New Bond St boutique. While undoubtedly large watches, the titanium model wore significantly smaller due to the flat display back. It really was a thing of beauty, and the Blue titanium would be my choice. If your into ceramic watches, then the Bathyscaphe is something else. Its the perfect mix of stealth and WOW!!

  29. #29
    It has been said, but the Zenith Chronomaster sport is same size as a Sub, has similar oyster-style bracelet (with PCLs but these are easily brushed out), same wearability in all situations, equally as well made and a touch more interesting.

    This is mine with recent brushed out PCLs:





    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skip View Post
    A great conundrum to be in! With regards to the BP FF, i was able to try on both the steel and titanium models on a recent visit to the New Bond St boutique. While undoubtedly large watches, the titanium model wore significantly smaller due to the flat display back. It really was a thing of beauty, and the Blue titanium would be my choice. If your into ceramic watches, then the Bathyscaphe is something else. Its the perfect mix of stealth and WOW!!
    Thanks for the info, I had assumed that 45mm might be too big for my 7 inch wrist, so good to know the Ti version wears slightly smaller than one would think. I'm going down to London later this week to try them all on. I do like the look of the ceramic Bathyscaphe with the blue dial as well.

  31. #31
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    Thanks for the great pics. I've looked at Zenith before, I like the different colour sub dials. Planning a trip to London this week so will take a look in Watches of Switzerland/Selfridges.

  32. #32
    Master
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    Of what's been mentioned, I'd have the Zenith. But if it was me I'd have a GO Panomatic Lunar, possibly the green dial.

  33. #33
    Master
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    Get the Sub but don’t pay anywhere near top of budget.

  34. #34
    Master mjrennie's Avatar
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    Used Panerai are great value, IMHO. I have a 01209 and a 799, both Submersible (42mm and 47mm), and I wear them most of the time. Stunning watches.

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by mjrennie View Post
    Used Panerai are great value, IMHO. I have a 01209 and a 799, both Submersible (42mm and 47mm), and I wear them most of the time. Stunning watches.
    Yes I'm a fan of Panerai, they used to make some solid watches imo, but all the good ones - for me - were 44mm minimum and wore too big for me. I wish they'd make more in 40mm.

  36. #36
    Grand Master oldoakknives's Avatar
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    For me it would have to be the new 41mm Sub for everyday wear, although the Exp II Polar and BLNR aren't far behind. As V mentioned 'there's a reason the Sub has classic status'.
    Started out with nothing. Still have most of it left.

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