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Thread: California - any suggestions

  1. #1

    California - any suggestions

    The wife and I have booked two weeks in California this September, flying into San Francisco then flying home from San Diego, with the plan to spend the two weeks driving down bit by bit until we fly home.
    Apart from a few nights in San Francisco and then Carmel, so I can visit Pebble Beach and hopefully play Spyglass Hill we’ve nothing set in stone.
    Grateful for any hints and suggestions.

  2. #2
    There is so much to squeeze into 2 weeks that could do with bit more info ….. my advice would be not to try and squeeze too much in.

    You could write several books. If you want 2 or 3 nights in a chilled out place half way I’d suggest Newport Beach or near there. A trip to Catalina Island from there is a fun day. Hearst Castle good for half a day.

    Will you have kids with you?


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  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by dandanthewatchman View Post
    There is so much to squeeze into 2 weeks that could do with bit more info ….. my advice would be not to try and squeeze too much in.

    You could write several books. If you want 2 or 3 nights in a chilled out place half way I’d suggest Newport Beach or near there. A trip to Catalina Island from there is a fun day. Hearst Castle good for half a day.

    Will you have kids with you?


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    Cheers for the tips. Ideally we’d have done three but my company only allows me to take two weeks off max. No kids, just the two of us.

  4. #4
    Master John Wall's Avatar
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    My ex wife and I did this exact trip about 17 years ago.
    Flew into SF and had three days doing the sights.
    Open top bus, trolley car, pier 39, Lombard St, there’s plenty to see and do.
    The visit to Alcatraz is in my top three days of all time.

    After 3 days we headed south down the Pacific Coast Highway in a V8 open top Mustang, which id convinced the previous Mrs Wall was the only way to do it.

    First layover was Monterey. Did the Aquarium and Cannery Row.
    Then Carmel. Did 17mile drive and Pebble beach proshop. Called stepson and told him to look online at the 1st tee camera, whilst we stood waving.
    Had a most valuable conversation with a bar owner n Carmel who said whilst driving down the PCH if you see three or more cars parked up on the side of the road, Stop, because there will be something to see.
    (“It has to be three or more because two could be a an affair or a drug deal”)
    Following this advice we saw, a beach full of elephant seals, dozens of floating sea otters, two whales and hand fed Chip and Dale and all their cousins.
    The other advice he gave was don’t waste our time going into LA.
    He said go into Beverly Hills and see the sign then get back out.
    Unless there was anything specific you wanted to see in the city, it was just a big shithole.

    Hearst Castle worth a visit.
    Santa Monica is very nice.
    Santa Barbara is beautiful.
    Huntington beach.
    I had to see Miramar where the Navy’s TopGun school is based.
    San Diego zoo is one of the finest in the world.
    USS Midway is worth a visit too.

    If I recall correctly we were getting about $2 to the £ which made things rather pleasant.

    I envy you, I have a lot of very good memories from that trip

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by John Wall View Post
    My ex wife and I did this exact trip about 17 years ago.
    Flew into SF and had three days doing the sights.
    Open top bus, trolley car, pier 39, Lombard St, there’s plenty to see and do.
    The visit to Alcatraz is in my top three days of all time.

    After 3 days we headed south down the Pacific Coast Highway in a V8 open top Mustang, which id convinced the previous Mrs Wall was the only way to do it.

    First layover was Monterey. Did the Aquarium and Cannery Row.
    Then Carmel. Did 17mile drive and Pebble beach proshop. Called stepson and told him to look online at the 1st tee camera, whilst we stood waving.
    Had a most valuable conversation with a bar owner n Carmel who said whilst driving down the PCH if you see three or more cars parked up on the side of the road, Stop, because there will be something to see.
    (“It has to be three or more because two could be a an affair or a drug deal”)
    Following this advice we saw, a beach full of elephant seals, dozens of floating sea otters, two whales and hand fed Chip and Dale and all their cousins.
    The other advice he gave was don’t waste our time going into LA.
    He said go into Beverly Hills and see the sign then get back out.
    Unless there was anything specific you wanted to see in the city, it was just a big shithole.

    Hearst Castle worth a visit.
    Santa Monica is very nice.
    Santa Barbara is beautiful.
    Huntington beach.
    I had to see Miramar where the Navy’s TopGun school is based.
    San Diego zoo is one of the finest in the world.
    USS Midway is worth a visit too.

    If I recall correctly we were getting about $2 to the £ which made things rather pleasant.

    I envy you, I have a lot of very good memories from that trip
    Cheers for this. I’m looking to take my clubs and play Spyglass and Torrey Pines and possibly one other. Pebble is $695 plus over $800 to stay in lodge to get a tee time so sod that. My wife’s already done LA and she said I have to go but I’m happy to skip it in favour of other places.

  6. #6
    Craftsman ELD1970's Avatar
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    Whale watching in Monterey, might even see some Orcas. Book it in advance. Well worth it.


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    Take big pockets, it will surely empty them but enjoy.

  9. #9
    Grand Master Mr Curta's Avatar
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    I love that route, John Wall pretty much nailed it earlier. You might like to venture north for a day or two in Napa County before heading south if wine rocks your boat although the run up to Seattle and Vancouver is worth a trip of its own one day. Monterey Bay Aquarium is a pretty special place, set up by the Packard family.
    Don't just do something, sit there. - TNH

  10. #10
    Master thegoat's Avatar
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    In San Francisco, I’d recommend the open top bus tour .They are pushy but it’s quite an informative trip . It’s also entertaining if you get the right guide. Alcatraz is a must do as I’m sure you’re aware . Book as soon as possible for this.
    Muir Woods State Park is just across the Golden Gate Bridge . It is well worth a visit if you want to see the giant redwoods . It is spectacular and also gets booked up very quickly . If you get a spot, you’ll see why .
    Napa Valley was one of my favourite places . We spent a week here and wished we’d booked for longer . It’s a fair drive north of San Francisco so it might be inconvenient for you .
    Driving South we stopped off at a few villagey type places on the coast but none that stuck out.
    Catalina Island IMHO , was the only thing worth staying in or near LA for .
    I loved San Diego but it was quite a few years ago when we were there so I couldn’t recommend much . We stayed in a cliff top house overlooking Ocean Beach and the pier which was very cool . I’d imagine it’ll be exorbitantly expensive now too. The zoo was fabulous though as was a day trip to Tijuana .

  11. #11
    Go to California for the beautiful scenery. I swerve the cities. San Fran is skanky, LA is a car ridden sprawl, except Griffith observatory and Getty museum which I liked. Downtown San Diego has a gimmicky Gaslamp district of a few blocks and beyond that it is also skanky.

    Homelessness and tent cities in the major cities is dreadful, and only a few blocks, and sometimes less from some of the tourist hotspots.

  12. #12
    Master earlofsodbury's Avatar
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    One headliner that catches a lot of tourists out - SF and the coast in general until you get nearer to LA is surprisingly chilly (Humboldt current &c) at times, especially evening and nights, and also often foggy and even rainy at short notice, so if you plan to do much on foot (and any city is best on foot), it's worth packing a few warm/waterproof things.

    I know it couldn't be more blindingly obvious, but The Golden Gate bridge is as spectacular as it is free to visit. The best overviews are the Marin Headlands to the north, or approach from The Presidio and head down on the network of trails from Baker Beach. The walk round from Crissy Field is nice too. What I wouldn't bother doing - unless you want the faint sense of accomplishment - is walk over it: there's so much traffic that the noise and air pollution makes it pretty tedious.

    Everybody visiting SF does Alcatraz, but IMO it's a depressing dump, with a sometimes grim little boat trip if the weather's inclement, but if it's your thing... I'd also avoid Fisherman's Wharf and the piers in general - peak tourist trap, with terrible and overpriced eateries. Shedloads of online guides to get you to better, cheaper restos - the 'burbs can be a good bet, just tread warily around spots like the Tenderloin, tho' mebbe that's been gentrified by now?

    Everyone also hits-up Highway 1 south to LA, and it is gorgeous in places, but northbound is a lot quieter and more scenic - if less iconic. If you head North, pop-in to Muir Wood for some breathtaking coastal redwoods.

    Yosemite is also a must-do - there's a vast amount to see and do: basically the whole Sierra Nevada (which confusingly is mostly in Ca.), is beautiful, especially the state parks, of which the oft-overlooked Stanislaus NF is really worth a look, beautiful and quieter than its better-known adjacents. Jamestown is nice for an overnighter before exploring the area - an unexpectedly authentic slice of the old west just about clinging to its sense of identity.

    A personal favourite, if a mite obscure and a bit middle-of-nowhere, is the ancient bristlecone pine forest on the White Mountain Road - long believed the oldest living organisms (anywhere from 3,500 - 6000 years old), the trees are extraordinary objects in their own right, and the landscape there is very beautiful, and very quiet, if that's your thing.

    Death Valley and the Mojave Desert are also worth a trip - very beautiful in their remoter parts, and naturally enough the climate is truly something to be experienced!

    FWIW, my wife was based in SF for six years (albeit I'm nearly 10 years out of date now) so I had ample time to fall in love with that part of the world - why we never moved there is a bit beyond me: I'd be back in heartbeat...

    Enjoy your trip!

  13. #13
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    I can't believe we got the 12 posts without someone mentioning Yosemite!

    An absolute must do IMO

    As others have said SF and LA are not the cities they were, people pissing in the street wen I was there 7 years ago, I expect it's worse now

    90% of folk are in yellow Mustangs down the coast, if that's your thing (wasn't mine)

  14. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by demonloop View Post
    I can't believe we got the 12 posts without someone mentioning Yosemite!

    An absolute must do IMO

    As others have said SF and LA are not the cities they were, people pissing in the street wen I was there 7 years ago, I expect it's worse now

    90% of folk are in yellow Mustangs down the coast, if that's your thing (wasn't mine)
    Yosemite is definitely on the radar.

  15. #15

    California - any suggestions

    Quote Originally Posted by sevvy View Post
    Yosemite is definitely on the radar.
    Tourists tend to stick the Californian usual suspect locations. Rarely on the radar is US 395 on the east side of the Sierra Nevada between Lake Tahoe, through Yosemite (east side entrance), down to Lone Pine and onto LA as part of a road trip for amazing views. 14,000 ft Sierras out of one car window, and -200ft Death Valley out of the other.

    https://www.lonelyplanet.com/article...395-road-trip#

    I found the views from US1/Big Sur no better than the Cornish coast. Hotel prices on the Big Sur start in the $1,000s per night, so you have to bolt from Monterey to SLO in a day unless you are willing to pony up some serious $$$$.

    But you can do US1 in one direction and US395 to backtrack. An excellent mix of mountains, desert and sea.
    Last edited by noTAGlove; 28th February 2024 at 10:32.

  16. #16
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    Not been for a few years but I satyed at Ragged Point Inn. https://www.raggedpointinn.com/ room overlooked the Pacific!! handy for that Northern Coast. hearst Castle is astounding (too much money/no taste). certain areas have aircraft doing their thing eg Edwards in the Mojave but access might be limited obviously

  17. #17
    Craftsman
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    We did a road trip in 2017 (yep, Mustang convertible!) Cities were horrid, as was Venice beach etc and I imagine it's no better since then. Enjoyed PC1 as a drive (Carmel, Monterey and the 17mile drive were great) but I really enjoyed a small loop North of SF and enjoyed Sanoma and some of the Napa Valley, came back on other side of the Seirra Nevada which was great. Can be chilly in May though. Enjoy whatever you do. Cheers, John B4

  18. #18
    Master Christian's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by noTAGlove View Post
    Go to California for the beautiful scenery. I swerve the cities. San Fran is skanky, LA is a car ridden sprawl, except Griffith observatory and Getty museum which I liked. Downtown San Diego has a gimmicky Gaslamp district of a few blocks and beyond that it is also skanky.

    Homelessness and tent cities in the major cities is dreadful, and only a few blocks, and sometimes less from some of the tourist hotspots.
    This sums it up for me too. I was always keen to visit LA because of the Hollywood movies I'd watched growing up. I enjoyed Griffith Observatory but the rest was disgusting and the main memory that sticks out is the combination smell of urine/weed. I'd be in no rush to go back!

  19. #19
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    Had the fortune to go several times with work and get to bolt a few days on for sight seeing as well. I enjoyed visiting Santa Cruz, specifically the boardwalk famous for it's usage in the film The Lost Boys. I remember sitting on a bench with the sound of the amusement park behind me, perfect temperature, looking out at the pacific whilst drinking a cold beer and thinking that it didn't get much better than this!

  20. #20
    Grand Master Mr Curta's Avatar
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    If you do find yourself on the eastern side of the Sierra Nevada it is worth pausing at Mono Lake for the unique ecosystem and tufa towers, and swinging into Bodie ghost town. But like the trip north from SF this is probably worth a couple of weeks of its own, continuing through Death Valley to Utah and Zion NP, Bryce Canyon and a nip down to the less touristy north rim of the Grand Canyon.
    Last edited by Mr Curta; 28th February 2024 at 19:59.
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  21. #21
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    Hoover dam was good and Palm Springs was pretty cool too
    Untitled by biglewie, on Flickr
    Last edited by lewie; 28th February 2024 at 19:53.

  22. #22
    Master John Wall's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by demonloop View Post
    ….90% of folk are in yellow Mustangs down the coast, if that's your thing (wasn't mine)
    …mine wasn’t

  23. #23
    Master John Wall's Avatar
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    Earlier thread could be worth a look too…

    https://forum.tz-uk.com/showthread.p...ornia-dreaming

  24. #24
    Quote Originally Posted by John Wall View Post
    Earlier thread could be worth a look too…

    https://forum.tz-uk.com/showthread.p...ornia-dreaming
    Cheers, didn’t even see that

  25. #25
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    Try going up i80 to Donner summit and down to lake Tahoe or if your up north go to Lassen volcanic park , mount Shasta is beautiful or see the giant redwoods in sequoia , plenty of cool stuff

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  26. #26
    SF is a dump and some parts a no go. The tourist 'attractions' are pretty lame too. I'd spend as little time there as possible.

    Sausalito is nice, as is Marin and all the way up the coast going North. Fairfax is a cool little place and has the Mountain Bike Museum, back where it all started.

    Googleplex in Mountain View is quite interesting if that's your thing, or Apple Park down the road if that's your preference.

    Berkeley and Oakland best avoided, although Fairyland is quite fun if you have little kids.

    Avoid the pan handlers and you'll be reet.

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  27. #27
    Grand Master hogthrob's Avatar
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    A few memories from my road trip from SF to Vegas, 20 years ago.

    4 nights in SF was 2 nights too many. Disappointed at how flat it was. Once we'd done Alcatraz, GG bridge, cable car ride and the hilly bit we were wondering what next. If walking, it seemed very easy to suddenly be in an area that felt unsafe. Haight Ashbury was nasty. Wish we'd gone north of the GG bridge to Sausalito and the Napa Valley.

    The drive to Lake Tahoe was good. Tahoe itself was a bit nondescript. Stayed there two nights; one would have been enough. Not essential to go there at all.

    The drive to Yosemite was again good, particularly the Tioga pass (Route 120 - check it's open, and also for Yosemite National Park entry restrictions https://www.nps.gov/yose/index.htm - you may need to make a reservation). For us, Yosemite could have been a day trip. In late August it was over 100 degrees, and energy sapping. Was pleasantly surprised that there were hummingbirds. Saw a baby bear on one of the roads.

    The drive from Yosemite to Vegas was great. Did it in a day but should have taken two.

    For me, some of the most memorable bits were the stops in the small towns on the way, and the driving itself.


    Has anyone done the central valley trip (Sacramento - Stockton - Bakersfield - Modesto - Fresno etc.)? That's sounds interesting, though not for a first visit.
    Last edited by hogthrob; 29th February 2024 at 00:50.

  28. #28
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    Went in 2019- highlights were Yosemite, Tioga Pass, Death Valley.

    People saying SF is a dump is like saying London is a dump. It isn’t but there are good and bad bits.

    Alcatraz was excellent and we cycled from the city centre to Sausalito and ferry back. Never felt unsafe but as with any city it has its problems with drugs and homeless.

    Didn’t think much of LA but some of the coastal towns we stayed at were nice.

  29. #29
    We’re certainly going to do Napa and Yosemite whilst there.
    Thanks for all the hints, going to take some time over the weekend to go through them.

  30. #30
    Grand Master snowman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by noTAGlove View Post
    Go to California for the beautiful scenery. I swerve the cities. San Fran is skanky, LA is a car ridden sprawl, except Griffith observatory and Getty museum which I liked. Downtown San Diego has a gimmicky Gaslamp district of a few blocks and beyond that it is also skanky.

    Homelessness and tent cities in the major cities is dreadful, and only a few blocks, and sometimes less from some of the tourist hotspots.
    I hate LA (Long Beach - The Queen Mary is good to visit and fun to stay on, although I understand it's fallen into neglect in recent years - & Santa Monica are OK, if not exactly beautiful), but I used to love going to SF for work back in the early 2000s. From what I hear, though, it's gone downhill since then, but I suppose when you've got cities actively moving the homeless on in a country with no social safety net, it's not surprising that the places with more liberal policies will get swamped (It was like that in Portland, Oregon, lots of clearly mentally unwell people on the streets). Even in the 2000s, there were some homeless in SF (probably more in LA, but the whole city is an ugly sprawl with poverty widespread amongst the homed and homeless - If I never go there again, I'll be more than happy).

    I've never landed on Catalina, but I've dived there a couple of times (similarly on the northern 'Channel Islands' going from Santa Barbara), which is a great experience.

    If you do go to SF, nip up to Muir Woods, just across the bridge, lovely to wander among the Sequioas. Alcatraz is also an interesting experience, especially if you've seen all those US prison movies.

    Oddly, for a nation with limited communal spirit, they do do national parks well - You used to be able to buy a card that would get you in for a year, which very quickly pays for itself if you visit more than a couple on your visit.

    I like Monterey - The worst of the tourist season should be over by the time the OP goes, so hopefully it won't be too busy. Carmel is exactly what you'd expect Californians to think an English village is like, ie not very.

    We did a circuit once, SF to Yosemite to the Grand Canyon and Zion to Vegas to Death Valley to Monterey and back to SF. We did that in a week, but obviously we didn't spend long anywhere! Hoover dam (which someone mentioned) was cool, but it's a 30 minute visit, not worth a trip just for that.

    I've never been as far south as San Diego, but my general view, so far, is that California is better the further north you go.

    M
    Last edited by snowman; 29th February 2024 at 14:53.
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  31. #31
    Master Mouse's Avatar
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    Rent a car and do the Bullit SF tour :)


  32. #32
    Grand Master GraniteQuarry's Avatar
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    In SF go to the Presidio and find Building 40, look up at the roof. Many moons ago I used to sit up there at night smoking and looking at the lights on the bridge.

    Bottom line is there's lots to do in CA and surrounding and it's all based on your interests - if you are into nature, food and drink, historic or touristy. There simply isn't a single answer or 'must do this'.

    Like most folks I was expecting to hate LA, however the couple days we spent there a few years ago were great. Albeit that was totally doing all the tourist list of Universal, Hollywood, Santa Monica, etc. Oh and the drive down the PCH SF to LA was an absolute bore TBH, stopping for lunch at Nepenthe was the highlight!

  33. #33
    Quote Originally Posted by craig1912 View Post
    People saying SF is a dump is like saying London is a dump. It isn’t but there are good and bad bits.
    A wrong turn in central SF gets you into the drug ridden Tenderloin hell hole.

    A wrong turn in central London doesn’t quite have the same effect.

  34. #34
    Master bigbaddes's Avatar
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    worked in san jose and santa rosa and a few other techie spots over there.
    san fran is ok, the peirs are tacky and naff , alcatraz is gloomy and over rated imho.
    the bridge and presidio are nice.

    monteray is good, as is tahoe.
    i was at the music festival in santa cruz which was better than any i have been to in the uk in a laid back sort of way.
    the garlic festival in gilroy was fun too.
    big sur is great for camping.

    as may have been said be prepared for some cooler misty weather at times

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by noTAGlove View Post
    A wrong turn in central SF gets you into the drug ridden Tenderloin hell hole.

    A wrong turn in central London doesn’t quite have the same effect.
    Stayed at the Carlton just outside Tenderloin. Lovely hotel and walked through the Tenderloin with wife and son. Yes there were homeless and druggies about but they just ignored us.
    That was during the day, Would I walk through there at night…no but, there are areas of London that I wouldn’t walk through at night too.

  36. #36
    Quote Originally Posted by craig1912 View Post
    there are areas of London that I wouldn’t walk through at night too.
    London is a big place and extends around 15 miles in each direction from Charing Cross, typically marked as the centre of London.

    Of course you are always going to find a dodgy area within a couple of hundred square miles that is Greater London.

    But anywhere close to Charing Cross you wouldn’t walk through at night?

    That is the comparison, as the Tenderloin is just a few blocks from SF tourism central.

  37. #37
    Have done a few USA road trips, we always start by looking at the Bon Voyage website for ideas https://www.bon-voyage.co.uk/destina...ornia_holidays on two occasions we used them to do the itinerary and bookings due to the short notice and they delivered both times. Even if you make all the bookings yourself their site is packed with good stuff.

  38. #38
    Grand Master zelig's Avatar
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    I love Southern CA. I was over for work in 2022 & had a weekend in between work visits in La Jolla.

    Lovely place for beach walks - I walked quite a way down Mission Beach...



    It's close to SD & if you like seafood The Fish Market is an excellent restaurant right by the USS Midway.

    Get this guy to make you his special Cioppino.





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  39. #39
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    I can taste that photo, wow.

  40. #40
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    Some interesting suggestions for you to mull over OP. SF and LA are like every other big city - good places to visit with a lot of dross around them too. If you really want to spend time in either: pick a few sights to see and spend the least amount of time there as you possibly can.

    Remember you can easily fit all of the UK and then some inside California. So imagine the variations that exist.

    My Son lives close to Newport Beach, so I’m there at least twice a year. Can’t wait to go again in June!

    My Wife and I did our first trip to California in 1992 and did a lot of what you suggested and others have said. My take now is very different to what it was then. Santa Monica is a dump compared to Huntington Beach, the best bit of LA is the drive out. Love Laguna Beach, San Juan Capistrano, Dana Point etc on the way down to San Diego. Big Bear Lake is worth a visit.

    Drive from SF through Yosemite, Death Valley and Vegas (one night is enough in Vegas unless you love the glitz). Take a flight over Hoover Dam and Grand Canyon - you’ll be speechless afterwards and it will save you almost a day travelling.

    Whatever you do I hope you enjoy it!


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  41. #41
    Master Thewatchbloke's Avatar
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    When you’re in SF don’t t forget Lombard St (we walked up it) and Haight Ashbury. We did a two week trip pretty much the opposite way around, Las Vegas, drive to LA then drive up the PCH to SF.

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