I'd always go 6 digit ceramic. Much better bracelets and overall feel imo and I'm pretty sure they aren't an over RRP watch now?
I'm after some Rolex guidance from wiser heads than mine (which is most of you I suspect), please.
I've owned two, an Explorer and a GMT, and sold both, the last maybe seven or eight years ago. Have always said I'd never have another - partly because they've been stupidly over-priced for so long, and partly because it's seemed silly to me to have a tool watch you either can't wear in lots of places, or can wear but only with eyes in the back of your head.
Anyway, my pa passed away in November. He bought a new Submariner in 1966. Sold it in about 2001 and then bought another (used) in 2005 and sold that too (of what he had left my wife is now wearing his Pulsar G10 and my son wore his Pulsar chrono to a CCF black tie dinner on Friday). He loved both the Subs, and I recently found a sheaf of lovely correspondence between him and Rolex in Switzerland, and, long-story short, it's made me think maybe it would be nice to have a Sub to remember him by when I look at the time. It won't be his Sub, because that's not an option, but it will still bring happy memories.
However, whilst I flatter myself I know a few things about a few brands, Rolex is a closed book to me. Can anyone suggest which Sub models I should be researching if I want the nearest thing to an affordable Submariner please?
Giles at Oakleigh has a 16610 at under £9k (see link) but I presume this is because it has no papers and I'm guessing that would make it hard to sell on if the experiment doesn't work out (and as this would be by FAR the most expensive watch I own, or indeed have ever owned, I do need to tread carefully). I guess it would be a lot more as a full set, but I have no idea how much more. https://www.oakleighwatches.co.uk/pr...bmariner-date/
Anyway, open to advice please. What to avoid, things which Rolex people all hate but which look totally normal to me, and so on. I guess I'm looking for something well-used and possibly quite patinaed so it's financially realistic, rather than a safe queen, but as I say, Rolex is a foreign country to me.
I'd always go 6 digit ceramic. Much better bracelets and overall feel imo and I'm pretty sure they aren't an over RRP watch now?
If going pre-owned you will not go wrong purchasing from Miltons. Well priced watches, genuine and honest people plus safe in the knowledge what you are buying is 100% correct.
https://www.miltonaires.com/product-...y/rolex-sports
Oh and a day trip to Liverpool as they don't mail order!
Would agree with Miltonaires being a very good place to start.
Two things to decide on before you go hunting would be sub vs sub date and ceramic vs pre ceramic.
Watches of Whitby tend to have some good options in from time to time too.
I may be wrong (and often am) but his 1966 watch is likely to have been a 5513, a simple three hander with no date. His 2005 watch could have been a 14060, 16610, 1680 or 16800 but probably one of the first two.
Personally, I’d look for a 14060 although the 16610 is a good call too, obviously avoiding the six digit ceramics as they are a lot different to the watches your dad would have worn.
I’d echo previous posts and pay Haywood a visit; he’s one of the most knowledgeable experts on all Rolex watches and you can be 100% certain of what you’re getting when buying from him.
I wouldn’t worry about lack of papers, yes it will be worth slightly less if you sell it but it will be costing you less in the first place. It’s only on here where Rolex buyers seem to insist on full sets including the tissue used to wipe away the tears of joy when making the initial purchase.
Good luck with your search and keep us all posted as to your decision.
Dom Hackett at Hackett Watches too.
Whilst I don't have dad's watch, I did find this.
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I think you’ll be presently surprised by current prices too.
Not the Rolex advice you requested and I guess it depends what significance you put on the correspondence your father had with Switzerland but
if you were previously 'done' with Rolex and any watch you would buy would have no connection to your father I wouldn't bother.
In your shoes I'd rather keep/enjoy something that he still had and left behind.
Fait points but he's left nothing behind for me to wear. The two I mentioned have gone to others and the Citizen he was wearing when he died I binned, just because...well you know.
I associate him very strongly with Subs so there is a connection I think I'll enjoy.
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Mike Wood for Rolex as well - http://www.theoldwatchshop.com/
No other suggestions bar echoing 16610/14060
IMO, buying a Submariner and the connection to your Father, would be a wonderful way of remembering him.
Having looked at the Oakleigh listing in the link above, it seems to show that the 2007 model comes will "full papers", both original boxes, all the booklets and the tags. Assuming the 1,000ft anchor came with your Father's watch, it would have been either a 16610 or 14060 from 2005 or earlier (or possibly a 16800/168000), as Rolex stopped issuing the anchors around then. If you aren't sure whether his watch had a date or not, I'd choose whichever appeals to you most.
All the recommended dealers above a good and I've had positive dealings with Giles at Oakleigh in the past.
Reckon you be able to get a nice 16610 2000s sel onwards for £75 ish
And a late nice 16600 for £8s so wait and bide your time from a good collector here
Unless you want to go the bricks mortar dealer route and pay the extra £1k+
Ahhh yes that makes sense.
Just wanted to say how much I appreciate all these pearls of wisdom. Genuinely really helping. Thank you guys.
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Was talking to Watchfinder about a multi-trade, i.e. a few of my things against one of their (many, many) Subs. They said choose one so I had a look. Turns out that they polish every single piece which is out of Rolex warranty. What a tragedy for the old 14060s and 5513s. Akin to vandalism!
Looking at Miltonaires, I think he has what I would consider the perfect option.
A 14060M (The M means the later, better-specified movement).
Date or no date is your choice, but the Sub dial with no date just looks great.
And the (second 14060M on the page) one he has is the 4-line version.
The 2 line (first one on the page) can look a little sparse on the dial, the 4 line is better balanced (imho).
Stock number 52-70-014
It is also the series that is 1000ft WR, so matches your anchor.
I wouldn't be looking much further.
Nothing wrong with polishing if it’s been done carefully and correctly, but you can only assess that with the watch in your hands and you do need to know what to look for.
I’ve owned both the 16610 and a very nice 14060M 4 liner, I preferred the cleaner look of the non- date but could never get the bracelet to fit comfortably. The bracelets differ in detail, the link connecting the clasp to the bracelet on the 6 side is longer on the 14060 and that made it impossible for me to shorten the 6 side sufficiently to centralise the position of the clasp, making the watch fit lop-sided. The 16610 fitted far better. My wrists are 6.75” and square, folks with bigger and flatter wrists will be fine with either, but for me it made a big difference and that’s the reason I sold the 14060.
Can’t say I miss owning a Sub, I’m not a dive watch fan despite having owned a few.
Watches of Distinction, Verv?
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Thinking back to a few years ago when the Watchfinder branch in Leeds had a window full of Rolex, with a couple of Daytonas and Subs, I didn’t inspect any watch carefully but from outside I got the imoression some had been heavily polished, Daytona bezels especially.
Strongly advise inspecting anything from Watchfinder v. carefully.
Garry Sanderson might be worth trying, he gets some top notch stuff in stock, I’ve bought from him in the past. Sold a watch to him too, and he was v. fair to deal with.