Reply With QuoteNo pictures for me.
I’m changing the insert on my Glycine and have removed the bezel and the insert. I’ve refitted the bezel twice now but each time it wouldn’t turn. Before I try again I thought I’d ask the collective for advice. I’ve attached pics of the underside and topside of the bezel and also the ball bearings in the case at 12 and 6 positions.
I noticed that one end of the click spring was out both times I removed the bezel. As I thought this was probably the culprit I tucked it back under the bezel. Was that the issue? Should one end by poking out? On the pics you can now see the spring from the topside but not from underneath - is that right?
You’re supposed to place the bezel back on the case lines up at 12, push down and hear and feel the click. That all happened both times but it wouldn’t turn.
All advice greatly appreciated.
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No pictures for me.
Are you on Tapatalk? If so please use the actual forum as that platform doesn’t show all pics.
Originally Posted by kace
No pictures for me, either. (Viewing on an iPad).
Pics are showing for me so I don’t know what else to do, sorry. I’ve already attached them two different ways and I can see them on my iPhone and Windows laptop.
Yes, I see them on my iPhone, but not the iPad.
Great. I've fitted it again and it's still jammed. I literally just took it off and put it back on! I don't understand why it doesn't work.
The Seiko 6105-8000 has the bezel spring similar to that, when fitting i used to slide the bezel on at a slight angle where the spring was complete to make contact with the case and then press the front of the bezel down with finger pressure while poking the spring loose ends into position with a tooth pick.
I don't know if that makes sense but I would never press the spring system into place as there would be a good chance of trapping the spring.
Ooh that sounds like a plan, thanks a lot. So does the spring have to be completely inside the bezel ring or have a bit of tail sticking out?
completely in, think of it like a round gasket but its a spring :)
Magic cheers. I’ll have a go tomorrow as I’ve had a few drinks tonight.
Last edited by TaketheCannoli; 30th March 2024 at 21:19.
Looks good but still won’t turn. I should have just cut the old insert out and saved a hell of a lot of hassle but I was trying to do it properly.
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Can’t get the bezel off at all now. Drives me mad when you follow tutorials and videos that just don’t match reality. I love how it looks but it’s so frustrating that it doesn’t work now. If anyone here thinks they could sort it for me I’d be happy to pay you.
Looking at the spring position in your photo. I would say that you do not want either 'cut end' in that gap. Spin the spring around a bit so it's a continuous section of spring at the gap. Also, the number of times you've had the bezel on and off I'd check the spring for being bent in the horizontal plane.
Also maybe check that the click balls are still both free to depress.
Also, again, take the spring out and see if theres a pin or something where the ends of the spring have to locate to stop it spinning in situ. Dunno?
Disclaimer: I'm no expert, just passing on my thoughts!
Last edited by Mouse; 31st March 2024 at 13:29.
Thanks but I’m not doing anything more with it.
Update: I now can't get the bezel off at all. Absolutely gutted. For the sake of trying to retain the original bezel and do the job properly I've knacked it. Gutted.
It must be fixable
Take a breath walk away from it for a couple of days and then come back
Possibly post a couple of pictures as it is now
I have been there with a bezel a couple of before, both a Squale and Sinn have given me grief before but got them sorted in the end.
You will never sort it when frustrated
(A learning curve is: unless super easy like an old Rolex bezel, leave them well alone, it’s not worth the bother)
Just gets better
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Superglue!......will have to be the "Super" Superglue tho.Just gets better
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Rub it with a cape cod cloth?
I use this for removing bezels safely with no fuss.
Looks great
I use this for removing bezels safely with no fuss.
How do you do it “properly” if you don’t know what you’re doing? 🤔
I’m sorry to see insert is now broken.
These things always remind me of the YouTube video I saw of a bloke removing his Seamaster Pro bezel with a butter knife. It didn’t get any better from there.
At the end, he was convinced his badly misaligned fake insert, in gouged bezel, was tickity-boo.
I wonder how many people actually followed his ‘tutorial’…
This is the wrong tool to use for removing dive watch bezels, it may work in some cases and it may be OK for Seikos that have a rubber O ring but I definitely don't recommend it . I have one, it's designed for removing snap-fit bezels NOT rotating ones. Even then it needs using with great care.I use this for removing bezels safely with no fuss.
Rotating bezels retained with a wire spring need a combination of twisting and pulling force to remove, and some can be v. difficult. I have a tool that was custom made for Seamaster Bond bezels, there are other devices around, depends on the watch. A plastic blade can be used to good effect, but never a steel blade because it'll mark the case. Lubricating with a small amount of WD40 or similar helps too.
As for refitting, the wire spring needs to be located evenly. Lubrication with a light smear of waterproof grease helps, cleaning out the groove it locates into is also important. The aim is to press it on evenly whilst rotating, the wire spring has to fully locate into the groove.
In this case the OP hasn't located the spring correctly and I think that's been at the root of the problems. A previous contributor alluded to this and I agree with what he said.
Can’t help but think “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it”. I doubt the manufacturer designed these to be consumer replaceable parts so it doesn’t seem worth the risk of damaging your watch just to change the colour of a 5mm ring around the face.
I disagree with you but each to his own :)
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