Bremont future direction.

[Alansmithee]

Interesting article with CEO in watchpro:

https://www.watchpro.com/bremonts-new-broom/

For Cerrato, all of the basics were already there for Bremont but he feels that it needed a sharper language to show that it had mastered watchmaking on a scale to rival the biggest international brands.

“The use of colours on indications sometimes seemed a bit random, the fonts leaned towards vintage and didn’t feel technical enough, the rubber strap was bulky and not tapered, and the London signature didn’t really work.”

And

"So far, 40% of the collection has been cut, with Cerrato insisting that there will be more changes in the coming months"

And

“Prices for the Supermarine started at £3,500, so one of the big things I am doing is bring the entry price down. The new pieces start at £3,250. These should be entry level into the serious mechanical watch segment, a sector that is super competitive and has to represent total value for money.

“Everyone is going crazy – it looks like 2010 when everyone followed Rolex and put their prices up. We didn’t do that at Tudor and we hit the market – and that’s what I want to do at Bremont. The big part of the market is between £2,000 and £3,000. Our new GMT, out in February, will start at £2,750 and the new field watch will start at £2,500.”

[Fullbreakfast]

Refreshing to see a watch company that actually wants to play in the more affordable area, rather than frantically trying to boost its prices into the stratosphere. I feel that this may prove to be a sensible approach over the next few years, as many brands that used to be accessible to the non-wealthy are now placing themselves out of reach and opening up space in the marketplace (at the same time as many are feeling financial pressure).

That said, I still feel Bremont are a fair distance from being a value proposition.

[funkstar]

The line up is already looking cleaner.

Definitely in the market for one of their SuperMarines.

[Alansmithee]

After I did the tour I felt different about Bremont,would you like some tour photos?

Yes please.

[RAJEN]

After I did the tour I felt different about Bremont,would you like some tour photos?

Sure. And do elaborate.

[earlofsodbury]

Does sound like they're smelling the proverbial coffee - they might even find their way back onto my "Want!" list at this rate.

[Alansmithee]

Does sound like they're smelling the proverbial coffee - they might even find their way back onto my "Want!" list at this rate.

Feels like they are moving slightly sideways from the Military action man stuff into more generic adventure brand - I am guessing for international expansion purposes it was something that played poorly in many international markets.

[McBeardy]

Was an interesting read & looks like they’re moving in a good direction. Always like the white Solo they used to produce, 43mm far too big for that style of watch and would be interested to see they’re new field and SuperMarine watches if 40mm and under. Presume not all new models will in house for that RRP mentioned.


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[sweets]

They've been doing adventure for ages. Charley and Ewan had Bremonts for the first Long Way journey almost before they had even sold a watch.
It makes sense to trim the range, it was looking a bit Seiko shotgun like in terms of spread.
I also think the pricing strategy is good, but there is one glaring omission from that article.
There is no mention of continuing to try and manufacture more and more of the watches in the UK, by that I mean more movements and more parts for the movements.
I hope that is not being set aside.

[100thmonkey]

Closing statement sums it up perfectly

“These are watches to wear every day not to be kept in a safe for a special occasion.”

[Faiz]

Listened to a podcast on Grey Nato I think where they interviewed him and he mentioned about the February release.
Personally for me in that price range of the Supermarines Bremont is quite high on my want list.
Big fan of the general Supermarine styling and excited to see what comes of it in the near future.
Also like the fact that the Wing brings more watchmaking back on to these shores.

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[Boss13]

Really hoping to do a tour soon.
I’ve heard it is fascinating and state of the art and added bonus it’s local!

[wileeeeeey]

Really hoping to do a tour soon.
I’ve heard it is fascinating and state of the art and added bonus it’s local!

Wear red chinos and brown shoes or they won’t let you in.

[Boss13]

Wear red chinos and brown shoes or they won’t let you in.

That’s my daily dress in any case, so no issue there.

[wileeeeeey]

That’s my daily dress in any case, so no issue there.

Oh Hugo

[Idontgram]

Great read, thanks OP.

Bremont have a lot of potential and Davide Cerrato brought a lot to Tudor and an interesting twist to Mont Blanc.

Bremont have a bit of a Jaguar owners club reputation to shake, as well as issues around pricing and value retention but I don’t want to say any more for fear the ancient mariner will come after me.

Excited about their future!

[s1wnw]

I visited the factory before Christmas. It is definitely worth doing. It is interesting that the bronze watches and a couple of others are not made there.


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[matt74]

Agree about the slightly confusing design direction. The collection was very clear early on then the vintage bandwagon seemed to make them lose focus and try all sorts of things. I love my MB2 but there hasn’t been much since that’s grabbed me and there’s always something I can’t live with like aged lume or a slightly weird choice of hand set.

Hope they make progress, they deserve it. Trying to bring more manufacturing under their roof should be applauded.

[Montello]

I like the look of some of their watches but the high connections with the forces in their marketing is off putting to me.

[Tom91]

It’s a no from me. Watched an interview with the founders and they were insufferable. Reminded me of that Bamford guy

[theancientmariner]

I think that commercially, he's making al the right moves. Aiming to push Bremont into being a mainstream brand. It will most likely mean far more watch sales but is that what Bremont is about and will Bremont fans from the last couple of decades be impressed - I doubt it.

Things that bother me;

the founders, Nick and Giles English being no longer 'operational'. Part of the Bremont appeal to many was that Nick and Giles were very approachable and at all the events. Gave Bremont a bit of a 'family' feel.

turning Bremont watch production from a one watchmaker per watch assembly to a production line assembly system. Whether that's how other companies do it or not, it loses a lot of appeal.

does making the current entry level price point £3250 rather than £3500 really make a difference? I wonder what we'll be getting for £2.5k when the new 'land' watches are released in February.

I always liked the historical limited edition watches and the town house event / launch party idea. That's obviously part of history now and conversely, the founders always said that they would never do the big shows as they are a waste of money and quite anonymous. Seems to be quite a u-turn, no doubt from the new investor and CEO.

I have a feeling that the ENG300 movement, instead of being developed to be used in all Bremont watches at some point in the future, is going to be held over for the new luxury watches.

[theancientmariner]

Bremont have a bit of a Jaguar owners club reputation to shake, as well as issues around pricing and value retention but I don’t want to say any more for fear the ancient mariner will come after me.

Judging by the news item I watched this morning about Leeds and knife crime, I think that you have far more to worry about than whether I'll 'come after you' ;-)

seriously though, 'Jaguar owners club reputation'. That's a good thing, surely. I know that us English are self deprecating but being the manufacturer of what Enzo Ferrari called the most beautiful car in the world can't be a bad thing?

[MrBanks]

Sounds great to me. The company was dead in the water and Ackman/Cerrato can hopefully save it and take it beyond needing the founders presence. They've done their part, now they can hand over and fly off into the sunset.

[Fullbreakfast]

I was interested to see that they've been loss-making every year since 2015. I guess the ostentatious HQ doesn't help with that. Not unusual for an early-stage business of course, but based on the numbers they haven't been growing sales with any consistency either, and peak sales were five years ago. So Cerrato's got plenty to do.

He does make a certain amount sense in the interview, but I see he's also not immune to the modern corporate marketing disease of talking utter bollocks with a straight face. e.g.

"We launched a new campaign called ‘Take it Further’, which is a call to everyone to fight for their dreams, because you can achieve anything if you have the right mindset, which is never give up, believe in yourself, face your fears and cope with risk.”"

That's not remotely true of course. It'd be nice if people could sell products without spewing out this kind of hogwash, but I guess it's the way of the world.

[Stuno1]

Good! Their catalogue was far too large and confusing as well as a confusing website. Other brand could learn from this approach. Casting the net far and wide is no way to build the base of a brand and establish a recognisable design language.

[TaketheCannoli]

Wow, what was it like before as there's still 148 watches and variants in the men's section alone! And a lot of it is fairly samey.

As others have said it's refreshing to see prices being stabilised or reducing which bucks the trend of ferocious and unjustified increases of most if not all luxury brands. If I were to spend £3 - 3500 on a new watch, would I consider Bremont? Yes, absolutely. As Omega and others that used to be around that aspirational but achievable level are now way out of reach for most people, I can see Bremont stealing a march on those brands and selling strong volumes.

They're in the TAG price bracket and I'd look at Bremont all day long before TAG. I like the brand and the Englishness and I've been impressed with the couple I've handled.

The line up is already looking cleaner.

Definitely in the market for one of their SuperMarines.

[Der Amf]

If you Google Bremont CEO you'll find further interviews with him in which he talks slightly less bollocks and plenty of sense

[FrontierGibberish]

I bought a 2017 Supermarine S300 black dial from a friend a few weeks back (in fact I sourced it for him from SC a couple of years ago). Always hankered after a Bremont, so when he said he was selling it I thought I'd have it for a bit.
They wear really well, and I'm enjoying it. Also, very pleased my Bremont has the "London" signature, reading the new CEO's comments!

[FrontierGibberish]

Wear red chinos and brown shoes or they won’t let you in.

Sounds like the "new" Bremont will be more Hugo Boss and Ralph Lauren and a customer car park full of Audi SUVs, which will be a real pity.

[Tom91]

I feel like their collaborations are sometimes a bit superficial

[helidoc]

I like Bremont as a company and am glad to have them in the luxury watch space.

Their range has got out of hand, so taming it is overdue.

If I was looking for a watch in the £3-3500 range, Tudor currently own that. I’m not sure I would choose a Bremont over something like a Black Bay 58 in the dive watch style. If I was after another watch to complement a dive watch, something in the field / aviation style, Bremont could be a very good choice, and could fit in below IWC in terms of price.

I haven’t followed their prices for a while, but it seems their most emblematic model, the MB2 is available at very deep (30%) discounts. Repricing is very difficult, and can kill a brand if done badly, but there is an option to take interesting watches, from an interesting brand, and price them in a way that gives them their own niche, and buyers the confidence to put their money into them.

They aren’t Omega, IWC etc. That’s fine. They don’t need to chase their prices, nor should they.

Dave

Ps. I would love to see The Wing, but agree they are too young a brand for such a vanity project.


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[theancientmariner]

They've done their part, now they can hand over and fly off into the sunset.

As that's what business founders do. It must have been very difficult for them to relinquish the helm and I'm sure that they'll continue on behind the scenes. Just a shame that they're not out in front. Any small business owner would feel the same. Even big business owners, Jim Ratcliffe for instance, like to look after the business that they've founded.

Sounds like the "new" Bremont will be more Hugo Boss and Ralph Lauren and a customer car park full of Audi SUVs, which will be a real pity.

I tend to agree

Ps. I would love to see The Wing, but agree they are too young a brand for such a vanity project.

it wasn't really a vanity project although the design might have been. The idea was to bring everything under one roof, manufacturing, assembly, marketing and sales as well as being a landmark for British watchmaking. Before the wing, everything was split up. It's been a slow progression, I dare say partly due to the pandemic but there's an awful lot going on under that roof. I like it.

[Kamakazie!]

Simplifying the line up can only be a good thing, a scatter gun catalogue does not work in the premium market.
I think some of the points on the design like the fonts is spot on so it will be good to see their refreshed lineup focus on the details.

[Sinnlover]

I welcome the news.
I really like the Supermarine line but as others have said there is always something not quite right - the number of fonts used mainly. (The minute hand is not great either)
I agree there needs to be a streamlining of the lines and the number of versions within the model lines, on the back of this thread I popped on to their website, it was still quite confusing and spotting the difference between the S500 and S300 was far from obvious, I also had to hunt around for the S2000 which I think has been discontinued but was still for sale in one version.
Aiming for the gap that Omega and to a curtain degree Rolex have left in recent years is a good strategy as well. I look forward to what the future brings for Bremont.

[Chewitt13]

Can't imagine they will be about in 5 years, maybe as a subset of a bigger group, but making losses for 5 years, there's only so much hedge funds etc will speculate. It's already a falling market, niche watches with with little worldwide brand awareness will be the first to go.

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[theancientmariner]

Can't imagine they will be about in 5 years, maybe as a subset of a bigger group, but making losses for 5 years, there's only so much hedge funds etc will speculate.

there seems to be a little bit of a common misconception that making a loss is a problem. It very much depends on why that perceived loss has occurred. If a business is in dire straits and making a loss then yes, it's a problem. However, many businesses seem to be loss making on paper and yet are operating very effectively. It's usually due to expansion and receiving investment (shown as loans) that give the impression of losses where in reality, if the business had been run the same year on year, there wouldn't be. Case in point being Amazon who for the first ten years of operation made consecutive losses. Apparently two thirds of Premier League football clubs make losses year on year yet we don't bat an eyelid at those.

[Nealywheelie]

Love my Bremont Alt-1P. Pity that the house as has already been mentioned, diversified so much from the early days.
The Alt-1Z chrono' with the dial options were super, 6-9-12, or in my iteration, the classic 3-6-9 on the non GMT models. Fantastic watches & so glad I have one in my collection, I will never part with it.
Would love to see Bremont in the years to come an important British manufacture.


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[matt74]

^^ like that. Definitely want to pick up an early Alt1-P or Z at some point.

[ryanb741]

This new positioning as a cheaper brand has put me off buying the new S302 GMT. Seeks they are losing a bit of that 'reassuringly expensive' side of their identity. That's of course IMHO.

[Omegamanic]

From what I can see it’s only the initial entry level price that’s dropped (and will not doubt be back at the old level with the next inflationary rise or two. It’s simply looking to position itself.

In fact, it’s almost identical to what Tudor did price wise when they started its reentry into its old markets. Seems to have worked reasonably well. Let’s see if Davide can repeat the same feat at Bremont.

[theancientmariner]

If you have a browse through the various articles, while they're positioning themselves with a starting point at a lower price to take advantage of that particular market, there is mention of later in 2025 pushing towards higher priced watches with more complications as well. I read it as though they're creating a far wider reaching brand in price terms but initially pushing the entry level watches.

[Gyp]

Really like my Airco, but checking back it cost me significantly less than the new starting point

[Middo]

Can't imagine they will be about in 5 years, maybe as a subset of a bigger group, but making losses for 5 years, there's only so much hedge funds etc will speculate. It's already a falling market, niche watches with with little worldwide brand awareness will be the first to go.

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They do really well in the special projects space. Full on crew room fodder and took over from Breitling. That would keep them going in some form.

[MrBanks]

They do really well in the special projects space. Full on crew room fodder and took over from Breitling. That would keep them going in some form.

They also make very little profit from the military business because the margins are much lower and they have to pay more for special printing and in some cases tooling, for very small batches of watches.