closing tag is in template navbar
timefactors watches



TZ-UK Fundraiser
Results 1 to 14 of 14

Thread: Tudor bracelet screw head stripped

  1. #1
    Craftsman
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Galway
    Posts
    797

    Tudor bracelet screw head stripped

    I bought a Tudor BB GMT on CH24 about 6 months ago from a private seller. I've only worn it on rubber and NATOs since getting it, but decided to put it on the bracelet this morning. When I went to size it I saw that one of the screw heads is badly stripped/rounded and I can't get the pin out at all. Any bright ideas on how to remove it? Will it have to be drilled? I'm a long way from an AD so a DIY solution would be most welcome.

  2. #2
    Master
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    London
    Posts
    1,967
    Blog Entries
    1
    One option would be to glue the end of your mini screwdriver into what remains of the slot using epoxy, and then with any luck when the glue has set you’ll be able to turn the screw. You’d need to be careful when applying it not to end up gluing the screw in place though which could be hard to do with such a small one. Can always remove the epoxy with acetone.

  3. #3
    Grand Master
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Wakefield, West Yorkshire
    Posts
    22,519
    Apply heat to the area where the thread enters the link, if it’s like Rolex this is the opposite end to the head. This is essential to soften any threadlock. Immediately after try turning the screw with a screwdriver, applying pressure to try and tease the screw around. If this doesn’t work try again. Heating the end then applying plus gas or similar can sometimes work, it’ll smoke a bit so do it in a ventilated area.

    A combination of heat and penetrating oil, together with a carefully applied screwdriver, should get it out. I don’t recommend trying to drill it unless you have the skill to do so, this is a very tricky job requiring a pillar drill and a good stock of drill bits.

  4. #4
    Craftsman
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Galway
    Posts
    797
    Quote Originally Posted by walkerwek1958 View Post
    Apply heat to the area where the thread enters the link, if it’s like Rolex this is the opposite end to the head. This is essential to soften any threadlock. Immediately after try turning the screw with a screwdriver, applying pressure to try and tease the screw around. If this doesn’t work try again. Heating the end then applying plus gas or similar can sometimes work, it’ll smoke a bit so do it in a ventilated area.

    A combination of heat and penetrating oil, together with a carefully applied screwdriver, should get it out. I don’t recommend trying to drill it unless you have the skill to do so, this is a very tricky job requiring a pillar drill and a good stock of drill bits.
    That's really helpful, thank you. What's the best way to apply heat - a hairdryer or hot water?

  5. #5
    Grand Master Onelasttime's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Everywhere, yet nowhere...
    Posts
    13,856
    Quote Originally Posted by ronnie3585 View Post
    That's really helpful, thank you. What's the best way to apply heat - a hairdryer or hot water?
    I've always immersed mine in hot water and it does the trick. Hair dryer should work just as well. This doesn't help with the wrecked head though.

    On larger screws I've used a sliver of sand paper in the slot to help get purchase. Not sure if it's possible on such a tiny screw?

  6. #6
    Master M1011's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Location
    London, England
    Posts
    3,274
    Got a Swiss Army Knife laying around somewhere? The tiny hollow point screwdrivers often found in the corkscrew are magical. Honestly, apply some heat then give it a go with this!


  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by ronnie3585 View Post
    That's really helpful, thank you. What's the best way to apply heat - a hairdryer or hot water?
    Think you'll need more than that, w1958 suggested it would smoke a bit.

  8. #8
    Grand Master
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Wakefield, West Yorkshire
    Posts
    22,519
    I use a micro-burner, a miniature blow-lamp with a sharp flame, play that on the area for a couple of seconds and it puts the heat in where it's needed. Prior to buying this I used the tip of a flame on a gas hob, a bit crude but v. effective. A cig lighter would do the job too, but the trick is to apply the heat for a couple for seconds, if the steel gets too hot it'll discolour and need refinishing. A soldering iron is another way of putting heat into a localised area.

    Fannying about with hot water or a hair dryer is a waste of time, you need to get plenty of heat into a localised spot quickly. People seem to have an aversion to working with naked flames thesedays!

  9. #9
    Grand Master Onelasttime's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Everywhere, yet nowhere...
    Posts
    13,856
    Quote Originally Posted by walkerwek1958 View Post
    I use a micro-burner, a miniature blow-lamp with a sharp flame, play that on the area for a couple of seconds and it puts the heat in where it's needed. Prior to buying this I used the tip of a flame on a gas hob, a bit crude but v. effective. A cig lighter would do the job too, but the trick is to apply the heat for a couple for seconds, if the steel gets too hot it'll discolour and need refinishing. A soldering iron is another way of putting heat into a localised area.

    Fannying about with hot water or a hair dryer is a waste of time, you need to get plenty of heat into a localised spot quickly. People seem to have an aversion to working with naked flames thesedays!
    Are you talking about methods to loosen the loctite on the screws? I’ve never needed to get a naked flame on it, ever. Submersion in boiling water does the trick every time.

  10. #10
    I assume that you will take the effected links off the bracelet first (hopefully the screws either side will be more open to persuasion) then you can get the problem section in a vice to work on it more efectively.

    I'd start by soaking it in WD40, squirt, wrap in kling film and leave over night. Then boil a kettle, and get the link up to temp before having a go with it in the vice so that you can apply enough pressure for the screwdriver to gat traction on the rough parts of the broken head.

    Pictures might help !?

  11. #11
    Grand Master
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Wakefield, West Yorkshire
    Posts
    22,519
    Quote Originally Posted by Onelasttime View Post
    Are you talking about methods to loosen the loctite on the screws? I’ve never needed to get a naked flame on it, ever. Submersion in boiling water does the trick every time.
    Boiling water may well work, but using a flame allows the temperature to get up to around 150°-200° v. quickly and it's a whole lot easier. Care needs to be taken, that goes without saying, the metal will discolour if the temp gets too high, but a quick couple of seconds flashed in a flame then get a screwdriver on will usually allow a screw to be removed with ease. I often use a flame for getting crowns off stems so I`m used to it, quickest and easiest method in my opinion.

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by M1011 View Post
    Got a Swiss Army Knife laying around somewhere? The tiny hollow point screwdrivers often found in the corkscrew are magical. Honestly, apply some heat then give it a go with this!

    Don’t do this. For a damaged screw head, you will need the biggest handled screwdriver that will fit the slot; this will offer the grip you need to get the torque through the damaged head.

    Nothing against the Vic for general use - but this job needs control and torque and this tool will supply neither and likely exacerbate the problem.

  13. #13
    As Paul says, Plus Gas and heat ftw

  14. #14
    Master M1011's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Location
    London, England
    Posts
    3,274
    Quote Originally Posted by JGJG View Post
    Don’t do this. For a damaged screw head, you will need the biggest handled screwdriver that will fit the slot; this will offer the grip you need to get the torque through the damaged head.

    Nothing against the Vic for general use - but this job needs control and torque and this tool will supply neither and likely exacerbate the problem.
    You missed the bit where I said it was magical!

    I actually find it remarkably easy to control firmly given you're right up against the case, no room for slipping. Each to their own of course, but it would be the first thing I'd try.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

Do Not Sell My Personal Information