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Thread: To buy or not to buy

  1. #1

    To buy or not to buy

    I’ve always wanted this exact dial. I believe the case is described as a coin edge or calatrava style. Years ago I messed out on one but now I’ve seen this one. I’m happy with the price, although there’s import duty which is an absolute joke.

    The only slight hesitation is that it’s 35mm and I’m used to wearing a 42mm Legend Diver although I’ve had some smaller watches and prefer thinner less bulky watches (which is why I love my LLd so much).

    The dial on this is to my eyes just amazing, it’s been family owned and timekeeping is ‘perfect’ and the dial has never been touched (there are lots of ‘restored’ dials out there but they always get something wonky)

    So please talk me out if it - or into it... my wrist is 7.5” so if anyone has a similar design and sized watch/wrist I’d like to see some pics. My feeling is that being pretty much all dial and quite a flat shape that it’ll wear bigger than 35?

    Cheers


  2. #2
    Grand Master learningtofly's Avatar
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    Nice watch, but I don't think it would be described as a "coin edge" (that's a term used to describe a particular type of bezel commonly seen on dive watches).

    I'd have thought it would be okay on a 7.5" wrist, although it may take a little getting used to.

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by learningtofly View Post
    Nice watch, but I don't think it would be described as a "coin edge" (that's a term used to describe a particular type of bezel commonly seen on dive watches).

    I'd have thought it would be okay on a 7.5" wrist, although it may take a little getting used to.
    Thanks, I agree the term coin edge doesn’t make much sense (unless they’re referring to the top edge of a coin?) but it certainly seems to be a term which many of this type are described as.

    BTW the lugs are 18mm which is familiar to me as I wore my CWC on a 18mm nato which I think looked great.

  4. #4
    Craftsman
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    To me it looks lovely and if it’s something you’ve considered for a while I think it’s worth giving it a go.

  5. #5
    Master
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    If you are obsessed with the size of a watch, then don't buy it and stick with a size you know you will like.

    Personally I sometimes wear a 34mm JLC and I totally forget about the size after a couple of days, so my attitude is who cares about size.

    Only you know the answer to this.

  6. #6
    It looks lovely. Size would put me off personally though, 40-42mm is my sweet spot and anything smaller just doesn’t feel right. I’ve recently given my old 36mm Datejust to my daughter so it gets some use, I found that I needed to wear it for several days each time before I adjusted to the size and that just wasn’t going to happen. Don’t Longines have the same dial in one of their modern heritage collections?

  7. #7
    Grand Master
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    Nice looking watch.As to the size,it will be fine.Compared to a 42mm watch it is smaller,but on the wrist it will be just fine.It would certainly look very odd at 42mm for a classic design,and why watches of this design arent made larger,because its the sweet spot for this style of watch.


  8. #8
    I think it will "wear bigger". I owned this watch:



    At 40mm, I found it just too big. I sold it.

    I think sports watches work better in the larger sizes (I have lots around 40-44mm size which I happily wear) as the bezel needs to "make room" for the dial.

    But for dress watches, a little smaller is better. As with many things, elegance is in the proportions more so than the dimensions.

    TT

  9. #9
    Thanks guys I am leaning towards getting it as the only way to know will be to try it!

    Quote Originally Posted by Danstone View Post
    Don’t Longines have the same dial in one of their modern heritage collections?
    Yes they do, which I was excited about, but it's automatic (hand wound would have worked much better and made it thinner). Somehow it doesn't look right, but it might be a good idea to check one out in the flesh, so to speak.

    I think the watch will be relatively easy to sell at the price I'd pay for it if it doesn't work out. Or am I just trying to convince myself now?

  10. #10
    Grand Master
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    The watch is big enough in my opinion, there was a time when all mens watches were 34-36mm and everyone was happy with them. Larger dive watches and chronographs are OK but this style works better in my view in smaller case sizes.

    I'm tempted to say buy it if the design appeals to you, but the fact that you're hung up about the size means it would probably be a mistake, the size thing would natter you and you'd convince yourself it was too small. On that basis my advice (for what it's worth) is don't buy it.

  11. #11
    35mm is perfectly proportioned for the style of watch and will look great on the wrist, I’m sure. 1950s/1960s Longines movements were high grade. I’ve had a couple and the timekeeping has been fabulous.

    When I see people saying that 35/36mm is too small, I do often wonder what it must have been like to have been interested in watches years ago, ie when pretty much all watches were similarly sized. It must have been really off putting, especially for the larger wristed. All those military personnel having no choice but to wear watches issued to them that that were far too small (and to make matters worse, there was no internet available complain about it to a bunch of like minded strangers).

  12. #12
    Master
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    That looks superb, buy if a good price.

  13. #13
    Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by 11erv View Post
    35mm is perfectly proportioned for the style of watch and will look great on the wrist, I’m sure. 1950s/1960s Longines movements were high grade. I’ve had a couple and the timekeeping has been fabulous.

    When I see people saying that 35/36mm is too small, I do often wonder what it must have been like to have been interested in watches years ago, ie when pretty much all watches were similarly sized. It must have been really off putting, especially for the larger wristed. All those military personnel having no choice but to wear watches issued to them that that were far too small (and to make matters worse, there was no internet available complain about it to a bunch of like minded strangers).
    Proof of the pudding is that WIS are bloody idiots. We talk about size but everyone else just wears what they want. If you take a walk around a shopping centre or any other fairly busy place you will note that loads of men are still wearing watches below 36mm and no one points fingers at them. It like polishing, we have successfully created a fetish over it.

  14. #14
    Grand Master Passenger's Avatar
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    The Baltic HMS line offers a 36.5 mm stepped case design, rather similar in looks, fraction of the price I´d guess

    https://baltic-watches.com/en/produc...03-silver-blue

    You could buy to try the look- size, probably sell it on without to much fuss- loss depending on the course of action you decide...just a thought.

  15. #15
    Grand Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mick P View Post
    Proof of the pudding is that WIS are bloody idiots. We talk about size but everyone else just wears what they want. If you take a walk around a shopping centre or any other fairly busy place you will note that loads of men are still wearing watches below 36mm and no one points fingers at them. It like polishing, we have successfully created a fetish over it.
    For once I agree with you Mike! Big watch-ists and the anti-polish brigade are prevalent amongst the so-called WIS community........I blame the internet for creating a herd mentality.

  16. #16
    Craftsman
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    I think 35mm is perfectly fine for a 7.5 inch wrist, I'd wager a guess that you would get used to it quickly.
    _1070433klein by neuman356, auf Flickr

  17. #17
    Grand Master Onelasttime's Avatar
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    Don’t Longines do this watch as part of the Heritage Collection, and about 38mm?

    Last edited by Onelasttime; 9th September 2023 at 17:06.

  18. #18
    Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Onelasttime View Post
    Don’t Longines do this watch as part of the Heritage Collection, and about 38mm?

    The dial in the original post is much nicer than this one - the rotating of the 3 and 9 is particularly pointless

    I regularly wear a 34mm watch on an 8” wrist so suspect the OP will get on fine with it.

  19. #19
    Well I just bought it!!

    I’ve got some nice 18mm straps already but I really like smaller vintage watches on a perlon. It looks like watchbands.co.uk have Eulit perlons for €17 which seems ok. Anywhere else recommended, since I last bought them everything has changed a bit. I think the Watchobsession ones are equal to the Eulit but the buckle isn’t half as good so will go genuine this time to get the proper buckle.

    The lugs have fixed bars so it’s single pass or open ended.

    Cheers for the help. As I say I think I got it for a good price so will pass that on here if I decide it’s not for me.

    The reissue is good but actually I think the proportions are all slightly out and it therefore doesn’t feel as perfect as the original. Can’t put my finger on it exactly but it’s like they’ve overdone the contrast in the dial. It’s too shiny on the brushed bit. It’s missing the triangle markers and the numbers are rotated. The case around the dial is sloped rather than ‘coin’ edge (if that’s a thing, see above). Also the lugs are 19mm which I find super annoying. Oh and as mentioned above it’s an automatic which doesn’t seem right. I still think it’s lovely but as a super fan of the original it’s just not doing it for me.

    Compared to my number one fave watch the LLD which is a 99% perfect copy of the original this doesn’t do it for me.
    Last edited by ped; 9th September 2023 at 19:01.

  20. #20
    Grand Master Onelasttime's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by thenikjones View Post
    The dial in the original post is much nicer than this one - the rotating of the 3 and 9 is particularly pointless

    I regularly wear a 34mm watch on an 8” wrist so suspect the OP will get on fine with it.
    Wow, I hadn't even noticed the 3 and 9, I just remembered the dial from previous web trawlings.

    I agree, it's not as nice as the OP's original.

  21. #21
    Master
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    Well done the OP, stunning looking watch. I have a 35mm Longines and it wears beautifully.

  22. #22
    Craftsman Robbo12's Avatar
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    I'm into vintage watches so most of mine are 30 odd mm !

    I have the same size wrist as you and 35 mm is good for me .
    I have a few larger/ oversize vintage watches in my collection so on rotation they all need getting used to !
    That's a dress watch so will fit under a shirt cuff or suite lovely

  23. #23
    Quote Originally Posted by 11erv View Post
    35mm is perfectly proportioned for the style of watch and will look great on the wrist, I’m sure. 1950s/1960s Longines movements were high grade. I’ve had a couple and the timekeeping has been fabulous.
    This one is from 1935! Must have been quite different looking a the time.

  24. #24
    Grand Master abraxas's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Onelasttime View Post
    Wow, I hadn't even noticed the 3 and 9, I just remembered the dial from previous web trawlings.

    I agree, it's not as nice as the OP's original.
    The rotated 3 and 9 are from the original 1934 model.

    https://monochrome-watches.com/longi...oducing-price/
    THIN is the new BLACK

  25. #25
    There's also the Hodinkee version which I think has gone more away from what I like about this dial design - they've pushed harder in the contrasting finishes and removed the numbers entirely.

    I personally still feel that the one I'm getting is the sweet spot - guess I'll find out the hard way buy buying one!

    I've had fun finding nice 18mm straps for it. I have black/grey/brown perlon incoming and some dark blue/grey fabric one piece cloth straps which might look pretty smart. Failing that I'll go for a simple open ended black leather, such as the ones that Hirsch do (plain black with no stitching).

    Does anyone have good suggestions for open ended leather straps (there don't seem to be many) or others?
    Last edited by ped; 15th September 2023 at 20:52.

  26. #26
    Craftsman Dean Learner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ped View Post
    Well I just bought it!!
    Smart move!! It's a lovely looking watch and had me contemplating hunting it out for myself.

    I'm a little biased as I like a smaller watch but the size is great. Will wear appropriately for the style of watch and you'll forget you have it on.

    Enjoy the new purchase. Be sure to share some pics once it arrives.

  27. #27
    Quote Originally Posted by ped View Post
    I’ve always wanted this exact dial. I believe the case is described as a coin edge or calatrava style. Years ago I messed out on one but now I’ve seen this one. I’m happy with the price, although there’s import duty which is an absolute joke.

    The only slight hesitation is that it’s 35mm and I’m used to wearing a 42mm Legend Diver although I’ve had some smaller watches and prefer thinner less bulky watches (which is why I love my LLd so much).

    The dial on this is to my eyes just amazing, it’s been family owned and timekeeping is ‘perfect’ and the dial has never been touched (there are lots of ‘restored’ dials out there but they always get something wonky)

    So please talk me out if it - or into it... my wrist is 7.5” so if anyone has a similar design and sized watch/wrist I’d like to see some pics. My feeling is that being pretty much all dial and quite a flat shape that it’ll wear bigger than 35?

    Cheers


    Sheer elegance.

  28. #28
    Craftsman theancientmariner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ped View Post
    Well I just bought it!!
    It's stunning, well done.

  29. #29
    Hi everyone

    First thanks for all the replies and comments. I’m glad some others see why I like it.

    Amazingly it arrived today. Everything the seller said is true; the dial is flawless and it winds beautifully. Timekeeping seems dead on since lunchtime today but will monitor overnight in a full wind. It’s got a nice reassuringly loud tick which I really like.

    After wearing it for an hour or so I find the size really addictive. I’ve just got it on a circumcised black Phoenix nato at the moment (the straps I have ordered for it haven’t arrived yet) but it’ll be fun to try others. I have a feeling that a plain black with Longines buckle will be best but we’ll see.

    The case shape is gorgeous. It’s surprisingly modern and I love how the quality of the watch speaks for itself. A proper look reveals so many quality touches hidden in the details, applied with restraint!

    Once the straps arrive I’ll do some pics. Maybe one tomorrow if you’re lucky!

    Cheers

  30. #30
    Quick pic

    It’s gained about 3 seconds in 24hrs


  31. #31
    Grand Master
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    That looks great on the wrist Ped, no worries about size.
    Cheers,

    Ben



    ..... for I have become the Jedi of flippers


    " an extravagance is anything you buy that is of no earthly use to your wife "

  32. #32
    Grand Master Onelasttime's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ped View Post
    Quick pic

    It’s gained about 3 seconds in 24hrs

    Very classy. Congratulations.

  33. #33
    Craftsman
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    Quote Originally Posted by ped View Post
    Quick pic

    It’s gained about 3 seconds in 24hrs

    Stunning watch, a very good choice

  34. #34
    Craftsman
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    Quote Originally Posted by ped View Post
    Quick pic

    It’s gained about 3 seconds in 24hrs

    Really nice, congrats!

  35. #35
    Cheers yeah I’m really enjoying it. Perlon and leather straps on their way but actually I’m rather warming to the nato! It’s still keeping great time.

    And you guys were right, 35mm feels completely normal!

  36. #36
    I now have the leather strap attached (open ended type, glued). It looks amazing and as someone said above, I can hardly feel I'm wearing it.

    The size has been a revelation to me - not once has it felt 'too small' and as a result I'm now re-assessing buying some other 35mm sized watches I've previously resisted, such as the LeCoultre Futurematic.



    Last edited by ped; 21st September 2023 at 16:39.

  37. #37
    Craftsman
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    I think you’ve chosen an absolute stunner. The blue strap with the hands worked really well and this just smartens things up. Well done again

  38. #38
    Well done looks lovely


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  39. #39
    Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by thenikjones View Post
    The dial in the original post is much nicer than this one - the rotating of the 3 and 9 is particularly pointless.
    Absolutely! That could have been a nice retro watch but they had to try and do something clever. Bleagh.

    The one ped has bought is classic. I'm sure it'll bring him many years of wearing pleasure.

  40. #40
    So pleased I bought this! It feels amazing and the size is fantastic, the idea of it being ‘too small’ has evaporated completely and I’m realising that this size is comfortable, legible and really neat. I’m a total convert!

    I monitored the power reserve over the last couple of days and it’s doing almost exactly 42 hours on a full wind and timing seems consistent throughout the range. It’s gaining about 5 seconds a day. Amazing really given the age.


  41. #41
    Grand Master sundial's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ped View Post
    I’ve always wanted this exact dial. I believe the case is described as a coin edge or calatrava style. Years ago I messed out on one but now I’ve seen this one. I’m happy with the price, although there’s import duty which is an absolute joke.

    The only slight hesitation is that it’s 35mm and I’m used to wearing a 42mm Legend Diver although I’ve had some smaller watches and prefer thinner less bulky watches (which is why I love my LLd so much).

    The dial on this is to my eyes just amazing, it’s been family owned and timekeeping is ‘perfect’ and the dial has never been touched (there are lots of ‘restored’ dials out there but they always get something wonky)

    So please talk me out if it - or into it... my wrist is 7.5” so if anyone has a similar design and sized watch/wrist I’d like to see some pics. My feeling is that being pretty much all dial and quite a flat shape that it’ll wear bigger than 35?

    Cheers

    [img]https://i.ibb.co/JnbYyt4/IMG-6736.jpg


    This is "coin edge" bezel



    Sold by me to a TZ UK member via TZ SC

    BW, dunk
    Last edited by sundial; 28th September 2023 at 22:47.
    "Well they would say that ... wouldn't they!"

  42. #42
    Quote Originally Posted by sundial View Post
    This is "coin edge" bezel



    Sold by me to a TZ UK member via TZ SC

    BW, dunk
    Nice looking watch. Yes, thanks - I get that coin edge doesn't necessarily fit but many are referred to as that. I guess it refers to the flat outer case around the crystal which is slightly unusual.

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