SOTC and rebalancing conundrum

[Courboy]

Hi All,

I don’t think I’ve done a formal SOTC before, or certainly not for a while. I’m looking to rebalance the collection (let’s be honest, aren’t we always), so I’d welcome advice on how I might go about it. Before I get into my dilemma, here’s a bit of background about each watch:



1. Girard Perregaux Laureto 42mm

Currently for sale on the corner but I’m likely to keep this having worn it for the last few days. To be completely honest, I bought this as I couldn’t get a Royal Oak/Nautilus and was also attracted to it being slightly under the radar. The tougher steel and water resistance gives it a practical daily advantage over the RO to the point where I no longer wish for one anymore.

I love how to watch looks and the now-discontinued grey dial really plays with the light beautifully. 42mm is larger than I would normally like but it actually wears fairly well for the size and I think similarly to a submariner. I do really like how this can be worn with almost any outfit and in almost any situation. My only complaint with the watch is the lack of micro-adjustment and in the summer months I struggle to get a good fit; I like to wear my watches tight and don’t like any movement when on the wrist.

2. Rolex Sea Dweller 116600

The discontinued and previously unpopular model. This is my second time owning this watch, and I repurchased it having regretted the sale. In the intervening period I had a SD43, which I really like but just couldn’t get used to the size on my wrist. I enjoy that this looks like but isn’t a submariner. Nothing wrong with the submariner of course; it’s a wonderful watch. But there are some things that set this apart in my view: lack of cyclops, the matte dial, fully graduated bezel, and slimmer lugs (although probably comparable with the latest 41mm sub).

This is probably my most boring watch and also the one that gets the most wrist time. It often makes me wonder if I can just be a one-watch guy. It’s just so good at what it does and it’s so rugged that no matter what I’m doing, I rarely worry about it getting damaged. Having a 2.5 years old son around doesn’t worry me when I’m wearing this, unlike all the others. Probably a keeper for many years, although I’ve said that before and then changed my mind a month later! Sometimes this feels more like a disease than a hobby.

3. Grand Seiko Sport SBGV245

A quartz GS with a water resistance of 200m - lovely. Everybody needs a quartz, right? Or at least that’s what Hodinkee et al make us think. This is an odd watch to me. The finishing is amazing - especially for the price point. The blue dial has a lovely texture with “GS” running through it, and the hue changes from blue to purple depending on the light. The orange hand gives a nice pop of colour and the fabric strap is very comfortable; the deployant, less so.

It’s a watch I frequently look at and rarely wear. This might be hard to explain, but when I look at the watch I really like how it looks, but when I put it on, it doesn’t do much for me. Yet after a few days of wear, I really like it again. I do like the GS brand and it feels like a keeper, if only because it’s probably worth so little that there’s no point in selling it.

Out of all my watches, this is the one I can wear anywhere with me and never worry about being mugged in London. It’s completely under the radar and I love that. It’s also the one I often take with me when travelling - if only it had a GMT function to boot.

4. Cartier Roadster XL Chronograph

This will never be sold. It isn’t really my style: I’m not a huge two-tone fan, the crown is ginormous, and I don’t really like roman numerals. Yet, my father-in-law gave it to me before I got married and it was his first “proper” watch he purchased for himself. So this one is dear to my heart and means more to me than any of the others.

I often wear it when I visit my in-laws in the US and I can tell he appreciates it when I do. It’s actually very comfortable and quite practical by having a chronograph and (I think) 100m WR. A keeper.

5. Vacheron 4500v Overseas

This is the second overseas I’ve owned. I previously had a 7900v dual time with a black dial, that I sold on this forum a few months ago. I have a funny relationship with the overseas. I love that it isn’t a RO or Nautilus (call it reverse snobbery perhaps), and I love how it morphs from being a dressy piece to a sports piece with ease. I also really like VC as a brand. I missed the 7900v and had to get an Overseas back in the collection, but this time I fancied a different dial and fell for the silver dial three-hander.

I currently have it on a blue rubber strap most of the time, which I think works really well and I personally prefer it to being on a bracelet or the black rubber it comes with.

So what are my issues? Well, similarly to the GS, it’s a watch I love on other people and when just looking at it, more than I do when I wear it. I’m not sure why either, and that frustrates me. It’s a gorgeous piece and I feel very lucky to own it in my collection, although I do wonder if I should change it for something else.

6. A Lange & Sohne Saxonia Thin

The cheapest Lange in the catalogue. The most “boring” Lange in the catalogue. And I love it. I purchased this from the Bond Street boutique last year and Kai could not have been nicer and more helpful with my purchase. I also recently received a custom cleaning cloth with the actual serial number of the watch embossed on it - a lovely touch from the brand.

I rarely get the chance to wear this, mainly because I’m often in quite casual clothing and it doesn’t feel fitting. I have worn it with a t-shirt and jeans a few times and I think it looks ok, just not as good as a sports watch would. There’s something so perfect about this watch and the lack of details makes every tiny detail even more interesting. At 37mm, it’s far smaller than anything else I wear, although it doesn’t take long to get adjusted to the size. Something about this piece just feels so special and wonderful, yet also quite fragile.

The watch came with a brown strap and when I purchased it, I requested a blue strap instead, so the boutique swapped it out for me. I really like how the blue strap tones down the formality a tiny (and really, a tiny) bit. Despite being my most expensive watch to purchase (I think tied with the VC), it’s level with the GS in terms of not worrying about wearing it in town. To most people they probably don’t notice it and those that do, will likely think it’s a Daniel Wellington. I really like that.

Collection dilemma:

1. All the watches (with the exception of the Cartier) are without complications - date aside.
2. There’s a lot of overlap with the GS, VC, and GP by being sports watches.
3. I’m finding myself more attracted to dress watches at the moment, but worry about owning two when I rarely wear the attire befitting a dress watch.

Potential additions (and the sales required to fund them):

1. Rolex 126719 BLRO. I really like the idea of a white gold GMT with a blue dial. I would probably sell my VC to part-fund this. I dislike that it’s obviously a Rolex and the concerns about wearing it in town/standing out.
2. Patek 7234g or 5524g travel-time. This would likely require selling both the VC and GP - I’ve told my wife I won’t spend much more on watches this year. I like how this is completely under the radar and also has a GMT function - something I’d often use se with family around the world.
3. Patek 5505 annual calendar (blue dial). Definitely will require the GP and VC going! A bit formal although and wouldn’t replace the Lange as my dress watch, so this would need to work with a variety of different clothes.
4. VC Fiftysix complete calendar (blue dial). Overseas would go. I like that this has a calendar complication and toes the line between formal and casual beautifully. Appreciate this isn’t a well-loved piece, but I do really like it.
5. GO Panomatic Lunar blue dial. Would probably sell the GP for this. It adds something unique to my collection and with the right strap can be a nice daily alternative to some of the other watches.

I’d really appreciate some advice to any other suggestions. I do also wonder if I’m changing for the sake of changing, but I can’t help that I need something different in my collection. I’d really like a piece that is white gold, slightly formal that can be worn casually too and is quite under the radar.

I am also open to buying one really nice piece and selling everything bar the Cartier and Lange.

Hope that wasn’t too long-winded and thanks to those who managed to read it all!

Adam

[J J Carter]

IMHO I'd move on the GP as it largely duplicates the Vacheron and also sell the Seiko, replacing with a Breguet Type XX Aeronavale 3800 flyback chrono and Rolex 16750 Explorer II 'Polar' which is an 'under the radar' Rolex with GMT function. Good examples would be £5k and £8k respectively

[carvass]

Couldn't agree more. The GP and the VC seem to overlap... I would keep the VC (love the brand!) And replace the GP with a Type XX. Chrono and "retour de vol" complications...

[Courboy]

Ok you’ve both got me going. I’ve always wanted a Breguet and the Type XX completely escaped me as an option - great suggestion!