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Thread: Ford or Lotus Cortina? Can you tell, genuine question

  1. #1
    Grand Master thieuster's Avatar
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    Ford or Lotus Cortina? Can you tell, genuine question

    This car is in San Diego California. How to tell from these pics if it's a Ford, a Lotus or a faked Lotus? This is all I have. Anyone here knows more?






  2. #2
    Grand Master
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    Can`t tell from pics, you'd need an expert to literally crawl over it to tell. I suspect it's a fake, that's more likely, but it does look nice.

  3. #3
    Master
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    Is there not a way to check via the chassis number?

  4. #4
    Master
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    Join a classic ford forum, somebody will know for certain

  5. #5
    Master
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    Green looks wrong but I doubt many are still on original paint.

  6. #6
    Master
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    Sorry I cant help you,but I have to say that is one gorgeous looking car.

  7. #7
    Craftsman
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    From those pictures alone!? No chance

  8. #8
    Craftsman
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    If this has made any of you hanker after a mk1 cortina 2 door with a lovely mild xflow on twin 40’s and a ‘rocket’ box I have one in stock that I might be open to letting go…

  9. #9
    Too many things to check, all impossible to do from pictures, 1557 twin cam, numbers, gear ratios, rear suspension, diff, rear brakes etc etc

  10. #10
    Grand Master thieuster's Avatar
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    Thanks! I know little to nothing of these Fords. Apart from the fact that I like their looks. I think that the guy who spotted them is very cautious as well (knowing him) and he will end up buying something he knows...

  11. #11
    Id agree the green doesnt look right but i guess that doesnt mean much….
    Found this,
    Officially 3301 were made but fakes were always rife so check with an owners’ club; chassis number should start with BA74. Chief tell-tale signs are a special panel to the boot floor, extra axle radius arms, reinforced front strut top mounts, added bulkhead flitch panels, bootmounted battery, relocated horn (behind the grille) and instruments unique to the Lotus. What colour is the engine? Normal units wore Kingfisher Blue camshaft covers while greenpainted ones signified the higher tune SE (standard to Mk2s, optional on Mk1s). The A-frame/coil spring set up was tainted by frailty where the axle tugged away and broke it (check for a succession of welding bodge ups). Rust will always be a worry although to be fair most Mk1s will have been well looked after or restored by now.

  12. #12
    Grand Master thieuster's Avatar
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    Thanks!

  13. #13
    Grand Master Andyg's Avatar
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    Try a magnet. If it’s sticks to the bonnet and bumper then treat carefully because they should be aluminium. But the best way is to check the chassis number with the register.

    Whoever does not know how to hit the nail on the head should be asked not to hit it at all.
    Friedrich Nietzsche


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