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Thread: The new Breguet Type XX ... brace yourself.

  1. #1
    Master
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    The new Breguet Type XX ... brace yourself.


  2. #2
    Journeyman
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    Very, very nice.
    I've always wanted a Type XX, but I've recently picked up a Blancpain 2185f recently that's scratched the itch for me, for now at least.

  3. #3
    Grand Master ryanb741's Avatar
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    $18k lol.

    And I'm not a fan of the date placement. Makes the outgoing version a bargain at current prices

  4. #4
    Craftsman TH14TH14's Avatar
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    I was looking forward to seeing this. I don't usually mind date windows too much but I think this is the worst example I've ever seen. Cutting off the 5 and adding "Swiss Made" underneath to attract even more attention to that area of the dial. It looks so cluttered there. Quite amusing to see the watch press (who were all invited to France for the launch event) have to tactfully address the date window issue in their articles. In addition, it's personal taste but I would have preferred a smaller diameter. It's relatively thick too.

    Such a shame - I was hoping for something closer to the brown dialled model they made for Only Watch which was stunning.

  5. #5
    Master JDB's Avatar
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    What on earth were they thinking of.

  6. #6
    Wow. Designed by committee?

    How many fonts are represented? (Three different 4s.)

  7. #7
    Journeyman
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    18k for a 15 minute totalizer.

    You can buy a zenith with the same specs and 'pilot' on the dial for half of this.

    Obviously, a luxury product is worth whatever someone will pay, but moves like this are why breguet is one of the most depreciating brands in the industry.

    They're quickly becoming the invicta of haute horlogerie.

    Yuck.

    Sent from my SM-S908B using Tapatalk

  8. #8
    Craftsman
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    Awful.

    Swatch group further ruining a iconic brand!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  9. #9
    Craftsman
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    Tough crowd! I have an original 1962 and like that they go back there.

    Lots of positive, the hands, crowns, dials minus a few details, facets on lugs.

    Hopefully they will evolve that new model to something even better. I think has great potential.

    Will happily buy a pre owned one at 60% discount ;-)

  10. #10
    Grand Master MartynJC (UK)'s Avatar
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    The military version I like more. ^^^ this!

    “ Ford... you're turning into a penguin. Stop it.” HHGTTG

  11. #11
    Hands no

    Date no

    18k no

  12. #12
    Craftsman wigdog's Avatar
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    It's a very disappointing release. I really cannot see past the awful date-I think the military version is slightly nicer but I don't like the colouring.
    I was never in the market for one, but I'm surprised that Breguet have messed this so badly.

  13. #13
    Grand Master wileeeeeey's Avatar
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    Their entire job was to copy paste and they fluffed it.

    Date placement is unforgivable.

  14. #14
    Master gunner's Avatar
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    That dial is a mess. Subdials, date, fonts all wrong. A shame.

  15. #15
    Grand Master
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    Cut 2 and 4 look... bad.
    I dont like it.

  16. #16
    Grand Master Sinnlover's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by robert75 View Post
    Hands no

    Date no

    18k no
    Pretty much nails it for me.
    It’s taken a lovely looking watch and ruined it.

  17. #17
    Grand Master
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    Someone will need it.

    Not me,better things to spend 18k on.


  18. #18
    Master
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    The 'Civilian' version that I posted is breathtakingly bad. Literally. I gasped when I first saw it.

    Even now, I can't believe that a manufacturer as good as Breguet could take an iconic design and make such a mess of it.

    Does it have any virtues?
    Last edited by Tinker; 7th June 2023 at 11:46.

  19. #19
    I just noticed that the 1st and 2nd numerals on the date wheel appear to be different sizes too.

    I appreciate they’re in a different league in terms of price but a Longines Avigation Big Eye is a much better execution of this (dial) design.

  20. #20
    Craftsman
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    Quote Originally Posted by verv View Post
    Cut 2 and 4 look... bad.
    I dont like it.
    My watch is identical to this, the 'big eye', as you can see the 2 and 4 were already cut in the original. It is part of the charm.

    https://www.thewatchcollectors.com/p.../0/101/g0.html

  21. #21
    For watches like that, from military origins design wise, I don’t understand the need to change it into something more complicated, when essentially the appeal is in its simplicity.
    The date window placement is a massive no go, the added Swiss made not even having the decency of respecting a bit of dial symmetry adds injury to the insult!

    I am all for original brands and the history coming with it, but I think I would happily rather have a modern Hanhart 417 or an Airain reedition for a nice type XX watch

  22. #22
    Master
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    No doubt it's a disappointment, mainly because I think they could have fit a day window or a power reserve indicator if they'd really tried as there's definitely a smidgeon of dial space left!

  23. #23
    Master earlofsodbury's Avatar
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    I love the whole Type XX vibe usually - and there are countless reissues and reinterpretations out there, many of which have become superb classics in their own right. You can buy a quartz one for £600 from Mathey-Tissot which - movement aside - is faithful to the original design!

    As mentioned above, all Breguet had to do - all anyone buying a modern Type XX wants - was to cut'n'paste the original...



    ...but what Breguet have done is make an Ali Express tier 'homage', and got all of it Rong™, every detail*.

    And then priced it for 'faeces and amusement'...

    That date - I often like a date-at-4.30, albeit usually in divers with the crown in the same place, but there's room at 6 to make it nice and symmetrical... Oh no! Not Breguet! Let's go full hunchback with this horror. Then a quick look in the hands-bin: what have we got that no-one wants...? They'll do!

    Yeesh.






    *I'm no expert, so I'll acknowledge that some Type XXs may have come out of the factory with exactly these features, I have no idea, googling didn't find them...

  24. #24
    Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by robert75 View Post
    Hands no

    Date no

    18k no
    Plus it's too thick. If I'm paying that much from one of the horological big guns, they should be able to slim it down to daytona thickness or less.

  25. #25
    Its a no from me, don't like numbers on dials, made worse by cutting the numbers for the subdials.

  26. #26
    Grand Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by erics View Post
    My watch is identical to this, the 'big eye', as you can see the 2 and 4 were already cut in the original. It is part of the charm.

    https://www.thewatchcollectors.com/p.../0/101/g0.html
    I prefer the hands on the original.

  27. #27
    Master j111dja's Avatar
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    Lovely but at £16,400 I think the Breitling version would suffice, even though it isn't a Flyback.

    https://www.breguet.com/en/timepiece...ii/2067st923wu


    https://www.breitling.com/gb-en/watc...=A233801A1C1X1
    Last edited by j111dja; 7th June 2023 at 15:22.

  28. #28
    Craftsman wigdog's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by j111dja View Post
    Lovely but at £16,400 I think the Breitling version would suffice, even though it isn't a Flyback.

    https://www.breguet.com/en/timepiece...ii/2067st923wu


    https://www.breitling.com/gb-en/watc...=A233801A1C1X1
    I bought this for only a smidge more than the Breitling....

    Sent from my SM-G988B using Tapatalk

  29. #29
    Master j111dja's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wigdog View Post
    I bought this for only a smidge more than the Breitling....

    Sent from my SM-G988B using Tapatalk
    I owned one. It's a lovely watch but my personal taste has change over the years. The Breguet is fairly chunky with a wide polished bezel. The slim bezels and modern calibres are more my thing these days.
    Last edited by j111dja; 7th June 2023 at 16:36.

  30. #30
    Craftsman Cornholio's Avatar
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    To be fair, I'm never going to be in the market for a watch at this level, so my opinion is worth the square root of nothing.

    However, it is indubitably an abomination of the highest order.

    Yuck.

  31. #31
    Quote Originally Posted by j111dja View Post
    Lovely but at £16,400 I think the Breitling version would suffice, even though it isn't a Flyback.

    https://www.breguet.com/en/timepiece...ii/2067st923wu


    https://www.breitling.com/gb-en/watc...=A233801A1C1X1
    There was a Breguet XX on SC recently for silly money, looks like Breguet have jumped on the "Pick a number out of the sky" Bandwagon, no doubt Blancpain will be next.

  32. #32
    Master j111dja's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cornholio View Post
    To be fair, I'm never going to be in the market for a watch at this level, so my opinion is worth the square root of nothing.

    However, it is indubitably an abomination of the highest order.

    Yuck.
    I'm not in the same camp as you when it comes to how it looks. It's stunning IMHO. Pricey but stunning.

    I don't mind the date position. I don't mind sub dials cutting in to numbers. It's never bothered me.

    The hands are a bit odd. The retail is utterly ridiculous. I'll take a Breitling AVI at a third of the price all day long.
    Last edited by j111dja; 7th June 2023 at 23:28.

  33. #33
    Master j111dja's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by robert75 View Post
    There was a Breguet XX on SC recently for silly money, looks like Breguet have jumped on the "Pick a number out of the sky" Bandwagon, no doubt Blancpain will be next.
    I think Blancpain are well on their way already.

  34. #34
    Have Bell & Ross patented the idea of rotating the date in a 4 O’clock window? Why doesn’t anyone else do it, having it follow the curve of the dial looks so cheap.

  35. #35
    Quote Originally Posted by ped View Post
    Have Bell & Ross patented the idea of rotating the date in a 4 O’clock window? Why doesn’t anyone else do it, having it follow the curve of the dial looks so cheap.
    Sinn do it and agree, looks far nicer.

  36. #36
    Quote Originally Posted by Kingstepper View Post
    Sinn do it and agree, looks far nicer.
    Ah ok. I just can’t understand how someone can stand back and say ‘yep that fine’ even on a watch 100 times cheaper than this.

  37. #37
    Master earlofsodbury's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ped View Post
    Ah ok. I just can’t understand how someone can stand back and say ‘yep that fine’ even on a watch 100 times cheaper than this.

    Well said, it's a vexatious bit of cheapskatery by all concerned.

  38. #38
    Master M1011's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by banie01 View Post
    Very, very nice.
    I've always wanted a Type XX, but I've recently picked up a Blancpain 2185f recently that's scratched the itch for me, for now at least.
    Risky business going first lol

  39. #39
    Craftsman
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    Saw the 2 watches in the metal last night and tried them on.

    They are a bit bigger than the original. Proportions nice, comfortable to wear, elegant, relatively close to the original brief, date box absolutely not detrimental to the looks, quite discreet in real life actually.

    Both are lovely. My preference is the 2057 Military inspired version. In an ideal world i would like the 2067 civilian version with just 2 counters which i suspect they will eventually make.

    Saying like many of the above that the watches are ugly or missed opportunity is missing the point altogether.

    The only valid point is that £16.9k is far too high. I expect them to be sub £10k in not too long.

    I will post pictures if i can work out how to do it.

  40. #40
    Craftsman wigdog's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by erics View Post
    Saying like many of the above that the watches are ugly or missed opportunity is missing the point altogether.
    What is the point?

  41. #41
    Craftsman
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    Quote Originally Posted by wigdog View Post
    What is the point?
    The point is that for people who loved the original iteration like me, the new one does not disappoint. Thus far, not many people have seen them / held them. I have.

    Of course if you don't like the 1960s big eye look with numbers chopped then you won't like the new one.

    The only valid contentious points are date window, which in person is less bothersome than in pictures and the price which i must agree with most people is too high for this sort of product.


    Lastly, I think there is a herd mentality whereby the internet starts with a wave of negativity which a lot of people like to regurgitate and repeat ad-nauseum. Had it been a new Patek or Rolex, people would have been vastly more forgiving...

    I took the time to read all the comments and notice that 50% of them or more bring criticism that would equally fit the original 1950-60's version of the watch. They then would not like the modern version of the watch so why even comment?
    Last edited by erics; 8th June 2023 at 14:31.

  42. #42
    Quote Originally Posted by erics View Post
    …They then would not like the modern version of the watch so why even comment?
    I think the original post invited them? The thread does contain some balance.

  43. #43
    Craftsman
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    Quote Originally Posted by catch21 View Post
    I think the original post invited them? The thread does contain some balance.
    To be honest, reading the internet, forums, Insta and the rest, these two watches have been overwhelmingly poorly received.

    So i am pushing water uphill in trying to convince people that they are nice in the metal!

    All in all, no date, lower price point would have probably been enough to change people's minds.

    A shame for the brand, i really like their watches and would like to see them succeed. Such a historical heritage behind them.

    Alas, they won't succeed with this one!

    Pick one up from sales corner 60-70% discounted in a year time?

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