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Thread: Modern 18ct gold watches

  1. #1

    Modern 18ct gold watches

    Does anyone have one?

    I have a number of vintage watches but the obvious downsides to vintage are no water resistance, service issues, damage to dials etc…

    Looking at modern gold watches I had been looking at more higher end ones such as Breguet and Piaget but noticed that Longines have a few with decent movements in them though I do recall reading somewhere that the cases were not the best (is this true?). Even Tissot have a nice 18ct watch at just over 3K.

    Does anyone on the forum have a modern gold watch and if so what is the quality like? The Longines and Tissot watches reminded me a little of vintage watches I had owned in the past and having viewed a couple of Blancpain watches I am not so sure the huge gap in price is justified.

  2. #2
    Craftsman
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    Have a Longines Evidenza, heavy rose gold case with a solid back. Movement is a L615 which is an ETA 2895. Timekeeping wasn't great from new, about minus 15 secs a day so will get a service soon but shouldn't be too pricey.

    Case is a lot heavier than any vintage I have had.

    Best thing was the price, €2250 in the Hour Passion outlet in Kildare, down 66%.

    Don't think I will get another bargain like that, as an occasional watch it cant be beat.

  3. #3
    Grand Master
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    Have to smile at the OPs comments regarding vintage watches!

    Why do all my 60s vintage Omegas (including a few gold ones) exhibit 3 bar water resistance, which is sufficient to keep the water out in everyday wear? OK, I’ve serviced and sorted them myself, but contrary to popular forum belief I am NOT a genius!

    With a committed approach the majority of vintage watches that were waterproof by design can be made waterproof again, especially gold ones. Gold doesn’t suffer crevice corrosion pitting that can afflict steel cases so there’s every likelihood the original water resistance can be restored. Lack of WR shouldn't put anyone off.

    Vintage gold watches are still great value for money for anyone wanting a gold watch, lets be clear about that. However, the Longines offerings are very tempting, the modern ETA based movements are an excellent alternative to a worn vintage movement that could prove expensive to fix. The one offered for sale on SC a few weeks back was a great bargain for some lucky lad.

  4. #4
    Grand Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by robert75 View Post
    I have been collecting vintage watches for over 10 years and still have about a dozen or so steel and gold case ones and no, I wouldnt risk them around water regardless of the fact that I have had all of them serviced in my ownership.
    That conflicts entirely with my experience, I’ve serviced and restored plenty of old watches and if the watch was designed to be waterproof Almost without exception I’ve managed to make it waterproof again. Unless there is a specific problem, such as pitting around the glass seal, there’s absolutely no reason why such a watch should leak provided the case back and crown seals are addressed. If the glass seating area is pitted makes life harder but there are ways and means if overcoming this to get a minimal degree of WR which makes the watch practical for everyday wear........trust me I don’t make this up!

    One if the few watches that has proved nigh-on impossible to make waterproof is, ironically, one I own! The watch has an 18ct gold snap- back case with an O ring seal, this should work OK but the case is slightly distorted and has, to date defeated my efforts. If thus was a screw- back it wouldn't be a problem, simply fit an oversize O ring and tighten carefully, but the snap- back isn’t so easy to fix.

    Repairers love to use the fact that the watch is old as a cop- out to avoid the hassle of trying to get the watch waterproof, but that’s not my philosophy.

  5. #5
    Master
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    I don't have one unfortunately - they have always caught my eye and interest. I think i would go for a yatchmaster on a deployment.

  6. #6
    Craftsman
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
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    Manchester
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    I doubt that the material would have any bearing on the quality of the watch. Manufacturers who offer a quality product will surely do so regardless of the material?

    I have three modern 18ct gold watches (PP, ALS & Rolex) and all are of high quality to my judgement at least. The Rolex and ALS watches are, as far as I can tell, flawless beautifully executed pieces. The PP falls behind both in quality but is nevertheless a decent watch.

    I would imagine that stainless steel offerings from the same three manufacturers would stack up in a similar way.

  7. #7
    Craftsman aamaci's Avatar
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    Oct 2018
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    OP, I have an 18ct. Longines Flagship chronograph (L4.756.8.72.2), which I purchased in 2008; reasonably modern. It has an ETA 2894/2 movement with DD module. In my opinion the quality is very high, with all necessary hallmarks clearly stamped in the outside of the case back.

    Gratuitous photo:



    A

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