Reply With QuoteI like the 20mm lug width a lot, it gives the case a masculine, broad look despite the case diameter.
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Took a trip to the AD today to view the new BB54 released at W&W. If you like well finished, modern COSC certificated movement, vintage looking, small 37mm divers watches then you’re likely to love this. It’s wears well on my 170mm flat wrist, and is notably thin in height compared with the the rest of the Black Bay range including the BB36 I was wearing, and particularly the Smiths Commander I took along for reference. The BB58 looked and felt larger than the 2mm difference suggests, and to me the 54 looked more vintage than the BB58 (even whilst appreciating the 1954 vs 1958 model years). Unexpectedly the Pelagos 39 felt similar on the wrist - possibly an illusion due to its lighter mass. Available at full retail of £3,200 with no request for discount countenanced, though 5 years interest free and a Wolf watch winder were proffered.
Last edited by YCymro; 14th May 2023 at 17:47.
I like the 20mm lug width a lot, it gives the case a masculine, broad look despite the case diameter.
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I went to view this in the AD and I was pretty smitten… I’ve always had a thing for the 58, so I had the AD show me that at the same time..
This was hard!
I liked more on the 54
- size
- bezel insert not with gold and has no ‘hash’ marks
- T-Fit clasp
I liked more on the 58
- bigger crown
- bezel pearl colour matches hands/indices (how do Tudor keeping effing that up on so many BB models?)
- red triangle
I disliked most on the 58 the gold bezel markers, I disliked most on the 54 using the tiny crown.
The 54 had a wait list (I would be 4th)
about a week later I was at a different AD and looked again at the 58… I liked it more than previously (I think because the AD let me take it out into natural light and that toned down the gold on the bezel)
I also noticed a little scratch on it… (on the bottom of the lug)
Anyway… long story short, a decent discount was offered on the 58 and the credit card was drawn!
I didn’t buy any watches for four years, bought two cheapies last year, and this is my third this year (FFS you think you’re out….!)
So I’ve left the 58 sized and ready to wear, but I’m saving it for summer.
All that said… I have returned to look at the 54 a few times (online not in person)
But thanks to the OP I might try and get the Smiths Commander…. To scratch the little diver itch (I also tried a super squale, but that wasn’t for me…)
I do fear that I’ll go back and forth between the 58/54 quite insistently…. But believe I chose correctly.
I've owned a 58, went to try the 54 on a week or two ago, did absolutely nothing for me!
I have some very average 7 inch wrists so it felt a tiny bit small after the BB58.
I also missed the red triangle... gave it just a bit of interest. I've never been one for "plain" silver/black watches personally.
For me the 54 is the best black bay so far, so much so that I got one through a WTB however it’s just not quite giving me the buzz my 114270 did so it’s up on SC at the moment
https://forum.tz-uk.com/showthread.p...S-Black-Bay-54
I take it back.. I was putting the BB54 on my wrist unsized and wasn’t feeling it.. I’m kinda glad it didn’t go via SC.. today I got a bergeon 1.4mm screwdriver delivered and resized the bracelet..
I’m now falling for it, it feels fantastic on the wrist, stickers are off and I’ve got a bunch of erikas straps coming to dress it down further..
Wish it had drilled lugs!
It’s enjoyable to wear and be able to relate to those who picked up the first subs in the 50’s.
This is not going to be babied at all and hopefully it survives :)
I tried the the 54 on yesterday and liked it a lot. As a previous owner of a BB58 (which I moved on) I have to say I preferred the 54, the sleeker case and more refined looks, as well as the no hash bezel were all very cool indeed.
That having been said, I wouldn’t spend £3k on it, if I ever do buy one it would be once they’ve dropped a fair chunk in price. Also, having been lucky enough to try on 6538s and 6536’s it will only ever be a poor man’s comparison. It’s a great watch. But if you want real vintage it’s not going to scratch that itch.
Anyway, I like the direction Tudor are headed. Best Black Bay I’ve tried. Well done to them.
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I am fellow drilled lug fan, wonder why it’s not common any moreOriginally Posted by rapid
FWIW, IMHO the easy availability of cheap spring bar pliers make drilled lugs redundant. After all drilled lugs make a bracelet easier to remove, but no different (to non-drilled lugs) to put back on (possibly slightly harder if you're using shoulderless spring bars)
Changing a strap (not a bracelet) there's no difference between drilled and non-drilled lugs
Atheistically drilled lugs look good though!
BB54 with a 58 sized crown and a lume pip that actually matches the hands and dial indices would be a winner for me.
I'm a little surprised that no ones really tapped into the apparent market for 1:1 vintage recreations, with modern movements and materials... rather than this neo-vintage trend that's going strong..
BB54 comes close I guess..
I think it’s fair to say most normal folk will never be able to afford the proper vintage pieces.. at 3k I wouldn’t say it’s grossly overpriced.. it has a lot of pedigree ..
Everyone has a choice, as they say it’s worth what someone will pay.. if you have 20-30k to drop on an original then I agree the BB54 is not going to satisfy your desires.. for someone at my budget it’s a very attractive offering.
I'm still on the fence with the BB54, I have the BB58 and absolutely love it however the 37mm case of the BB54 really does appeal to me which I would much prefer over the 39mm.
The T-Fit clasp system looks to be a winner also but from what I can see, the BB54 bracelet looses that elegant taper from 20mm to 16mm with it being 20mm - 18mm to accommodate the clasp (correct me if I'm wrong).
I guess I will really have to try the BB54 on the wrist eventually and see if it sings to me or whether I will stick with my BB58 with it's overall perfectness.
My local Tudor AD has the BB54 available in the store so when I'm next there, I should try this on for size.
Bracelet is excellent, it’s 20mm and tapers to 16mm and the t-fit buckle is slightly wider at 18mm. I’ve got a 16.5cm wrist and I’m impressed with the fit and comfort now it’s sized.. only gripe is it fits well with t-fit at its largest so I think I require the uncle half link so I can benefit from the t-fit..
I'll admit, I think the rounded lume on the seconds hand and slight sunburst dial is a significant improvement for me personally over the BB58. I'm just hoping that the small size is a deal breaker for a lot of people so that they're much easier to get than previous black bays!
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Which suggests the T-fit isn’t really of any use at all?!?
I’ve just realised the point of the 54 which has eluded me up until now. I have nearly 9 inch wrists and have been wearing my BB58 almost every day for over a year now. I thought it would be too small but in reality it feels and looks just right - I went into the store to buy the blue dial Pelagos but left with the 58 and it’s the nicest watch I’ve worn in years.
I guess if you have average wrists the 54 will wear on your wrist like the 58 does on mine. I must admit that personally there’s nothing in the styling of the 54 I prefer over the 58 (in fact the crown on the 54 looks a bit small to me) but I can heartily recommend the 58 - mine is running at +- 0 seconds since the clocks changed. It’s the most accurate mechanical watch I’ve owned, none of the 20+ Rolex I’ve owned over the years had this level of accuracy or power reserve.
Yeah I'm surprised about that as well... surely the T-fit should at least be the equivalent of whole link length adjustable in 2mm (or whatever) increments.
I have the 58, I guess I'm lucky in that sized for my wrist it uses the middle micro adjust hole on the clasp giving me +/- 1 hole for wrist size fluctuation.
Admittedly with the need to use a tool, but once upon a time this is how all watches worked!
I must admit I was delighted when the 58 fitted me... various things I'd read on line suggested it was impossible to fit anyone!
I’m the same - every link in and micro adjust in the middle. I had the comfort fit on a new turnograph years ago and never found it all that useful then tbh. Bracelets are sometimes a little loose, sometimes fit perfectly depending on the weather (I can’t bear too tight). Not exactly a dealbreaker for me but it seems to be a peeve on watch fora!
Ok I’ve re-read and saw your following post..
I think it is a links worth of movement.. ideally you’d want the t-fit in the middle setting so you’ve got some adjustment both ways.. I’m unfortunate that my wrist size probably needs a half link..
Last edited by rapid; 20th May 2023 at 14:40.
I’m very tempted to go and try one on the rubber strap. I’d like to see Tudor add a few more colours to the line up and I think I’d be sold.
Exact same for me on the new BB41 with the T-fit clasp. If it had one more mm of adjustment it would be able to adjust one entire link but it's just shy so I need to buy a half link.
Stop prevaricating and get the Black & Decker out ;)
I tried one of these on in Mappin & Webb in York, today. It was just a tad too small and delicate for my taste, and I’m partial to a smallish watch!
I think the presence of a rotating bezel and a slim crown shrink it down a tad too far but tastes will vary, I’m sure.
Credit to the sales guy (store manager?), he seemed to know his stuff and even recognised my club campus. We talked for a bit about lots of different watches, things they didn’t stock and bubbleback California dials. Didn’t expect that in a big chain/AD!
I dont compare the 54 to the 58 as its a different watch completely,otherwise why did Tudor make it,for choice in their range.
I like both and for that reason would be happy with both with no need to compare them.
Ive had the black & blue 58 so for that reason only Id give the 54 a try next.
I can wear a 34mm Rolex dress watch on my 7.5" wrist and dont feel its in any way odd,just as I can wear any over sized watch and that too is ok.When people say a 39mm or 37mm watch is small,it really isnt imo,it is only in terms of what that person is used to wearing.
37mm is perfectly fine on most wrists.
Anyone have one thats to BIG! for their massive wrist?....drop me a pm.
Ive a few Omegas I can offer in a trade,and Rolex Subs.
Last edited by P9CLY; 6th June 2023 at 13:38.
I’m a bit WIS obsessed by the 6538 and I’ve had/got various watches that either from my own opinion or via their marketing supposedly evoke the spirit of the big crown submariner.
Nothing I suspect is that close… most seem to be 14060ish dimensions with a 7+mm crown
I’ve never held or even seen a 6538 in the flesh, but I’ve put a bit of effort into googling/measuring screen pixels to try and understand it’s wrist presence…
as far as I can tell… (and if someone owns one, or knows better, please pipe up)
6538
37.5mm dia
8mm crown
15.9mm thick (!)
Maybe 47mm l2l (or 46 + change)
Lugs are quite long and a bit thick!
I can’t actually decide if that’s a small watch or not…. Certainly the thickness is by modern standards and round the diameter up to 40 and it would be very contemporarily sized.
The 54 was a pass for me… for now at least.. I dislike the small crown both stylistically and in use.
As most WIS seem to despair at anything over 14mm these days, I can’t see any <38mm +15mm watches being released anytime soon…
But FWIW (…) I think the BB54 is the closest thing to a true Wilsdorf vintage dive case that’s available (well mainstream anyway) and if this appeals to anyone… I’m a fan (and owner) of the BB58 but that’s firmly “neo-vintage”. The 54 is a lot more faithful.. for me it’s just based on the wrong watch
Picked up the most recent 2022-2023 Tudor catalogue..
Spot the odd one out..
Another thought I had on this.
When the smaller Tudor Ranger invariably comes out, do people think it will use the footprint of the 54 case, or the BB36?
I think a ranger in this 37mm case, with white numerals, rather than aged lume would be a winner!
I've yet to try a bb54 but I've already written it off due to the fact that I have larger watches now and the once perfect bb58 is actually starting to look small so the bb54 isn't going to be any different. However, the Ranger in 37mm could be a good size.
I got a BB54 from a member here yesterday. For context, my other watches are a vintage Longines 'coin edge' at 35mm, and a Legend Diver at 42mm. I previously had the BB58 but sold it due to it never fitting right; I was pretty much in the middle of the adjustment but always seemingly just over or under its range. I also found the gold markers on the bezel disappeared in some light and didn't like the way the dial reflected light, sort of washing out the face of the watch (hard to describe)
The BB54 feels great - for me, the most critical measurement of a watch is the height of the case, and both my other two are relatively slim. The BB54 melts away and I don't notice I'm wearing it. I did have to fit a half link so that I am in the middle of the T-fit, but now I can adjust either way as needed, whilst the watch sits better and feels more compact.
A small thing but I much prefer the indents around the bezel on this compared to the BB58, and the crown, too. Initially I was put off by the idea of the sunburst finished dial, however it's so subtle in person and adds some really nice detail and depth.
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