A Binoculars Q&A Thread Again.

[Pitch3110]

With a nature reserve literally in my doorstep and with the light nights here again we are spending more evenings walking and sitting up watching the amazing wildlife.

I have ZERO idea where to start and have read back on previous threads but hoping for some guidance and links to some potential deals out there. I currently have a ropey old 30ish yo pair of Carl Zeiss Jena Jenopten 8x30 we use.

Cheers in advance chaps

Pitch

[thieuster]

'Exit pupil' is a term I became familiar with AFTER I'd bought binoculars. I found an explanation on a Dutch website. I've used 'Translate' for the English version. But you'll get the point:

Exit pupil - Binoculars

The term exit pupil can be derived directly from the magnification factor and the diameter of the front lens of the viewer: the diameter divided by the magnification factor. For example, with 8x42 binoculars, the exit pupil is 42/8=5.25 mm.
The exit pupil is in fact the _circle of light_ produced by the viewer and which must be received by the eye. The pupil of the eye expands as it gets darker to capture more light (compare this to the diaphragm of a camera). If the binoculars' exit pupil is larger than the pupil of the eye, then it is easy to position the eye behind the binoculars. If the exit pupil is smaller, you will notice that it is much more difficult to get a good image. You are then constantly looking for a good position for the binoculars. And in fact less light falls into the eye than the eye would like to see. So this is definitely something to keep in mind!


To give some idea of the size of our pupil. With good eyesight, a pupil can vary between 2 and 7 mm. With age, the maximum pupil size decreases to, for example, about 5 mm. The binoculars from the example above are therefore not suitable as real night vision binoculars, while, for example, a 7x50 binoculars with an exit pupil of 7.1 mm are very suitable.

[magirus]

I'll start by saying that you don't mention a budget, so with that in mind here's my thoughts. I wanted to upgrade my elderly but very good Nikon 9x25s with something with better light gathering and less shakiness. I opted for Leica Trinovid 8x32 HDs. I picked them up from here for £649, and they are really excellent. I went for this size as a balance of magnification, light gathering and relative portability. I was prepared to pay a lot more for the same 8x32 in the Ultravid range, but the Trinovids can view at 0.9m for close up working, half the distance the Ultravids go down to. They also have good eye relief of 17mm. This review was very helpful indeed. The binoculars went missing for a short while in transit to me and The Birders Store handled the situation with aplomb, great to deal with. I'm sure sundial will be along with a more expert and technical answer.

[thieuster]

Addition to my first reaction: this Dutch site has a '.com' page in English. Lots of info here:

https://www.knivesandtools.com/en/ct...ars-scopes.htm

(Hang on! I just found out that they're local to me!).

[PickleB]

Start here: www.bestbinocularsreviews.com/blog...and refine what you think you need to know, please. Bargains are always in demand, but may not fulfil your needs. How much are you prepared to pay? How much are you prepared to carry (or not if you're observing from a fixed site)? How far away are your targets (insects are interesting and observing birds may be different to wildlife in general)?

I read your OP as wanting an upgrade to general purpose binoculars, but it would help to know any particular scenarios you may wish to deal with.

[sundial]

With a nature reserve literally in my doorstep and with the light nights here again we are spending more evenings walking and sitting up watching the amazing wildlife.

I have ZERO idea where to start and have read back on previous threads but hoping for some guidance and links to some potential deals out there. I currently have a ropey old 30ish yo pair of Carl Zeiss Jena Jenopten 8x30 we use.

Cheers in advance chaps

Pitch

Your "ropey old 30ish yo pair of Carl Zeiss Jena Jenopten 8x30 we use. " .... is a very respectable PORRO PRISM bino, and is probably, or should be, a quite good binocular if it's set up properly to suit your eyes' inter-pupillary distance(s) and if the diopter adjustment on the RHS eyepiece is adjusted optimally for each of you.

From your question, but I might be wrong, you might not have set up the bino optimally – in which case a new binocular ain't gonna be any better. Please be sure to set up your CZ Jenopptem optimally to appreciate what it's capable of before trying to choose something better.
And if WE are both using the bino, each of you probably needs to readjust to suit your own eyes when passing it between you.

If the bino is for a lady's use and a man's, the optimum inter-pupillary distance for each of you will very likely be different

You need to aim to create a perfectly sharp and circular 3D image to appreciate how good or not so good any binocular is .... 3D circular image is achieved via the hinge adjustment .... optimum sharpness can only be achieved by adjusting the RHS eyepiece's diopter control.

Some observers assume that a porro prism bino such as yours is 'old fashioned' and that a sleek looking 'roof prism' design will be streets ahead .... but this assumption is a fallacy.
Porro prism binos are best for night observing and and they offer the best value – because they're cheaper to manufacture than relatively more expensive to produce, phase coated roof prism models.

All is explained in previous threads and hereunder:

Adjustment of a binocular’s inter-ocular distance and diopter ring setting

Unless an observer has acute astigmatism there is usually no need to wear glasses. Any short sight or long sight can be accommodated by the binocular’s focus adjustment(s)

However, if an observer has to wear glasses, and you're using a centre focus binocular, and if the eyepieces have adjustable rubber eyecups, fold or 'click' the ends of the eyecups back … thus bringing the eyepiece lenses closer to the spectacles and the eyes.

The closer your eyes are to the eyepiece lens, the wider the field of view.

To adjust your binocular for optimum imaging, first adjust the angle between the eyepieces to suit your own eyes … so that a perfectly circular image is seen with no overlap. Don't try and focus at this stage … just concentrate on adjusting the binocular hinge to obtain the circular image. Best achieved without wearing glasses so as to see the whole field of view.

If you cannot obtain the perfectly circular image with zero overlap , the binocular needs recollimating to align the prisms properly. Reject any bino bought new or s/h with this problem

After obtaining the circular image by adjusting the hinge / angle between the eyepieces, you can now adjust the focus.

To adjust focus: Close your right eye so that you're using only the LHS eyepiece. Adjust LHS focus via the centre focus wheel by observing e.g. a parked car number plate c. 100 yards distant. Keep your right eye closed whilst focusing with your left eye.

After obtaining good LHS focus, close your left eye and open the right eye … and see if the number plate or whatever other subject you've chosen, is in focus when looking through the RHS eyepiece. Chances are it will not be in perfect focus … please keep the left eye closed whilst inspecting the RHS image with your right eye .

If not in focus, turn the RHS eyepiece’s 'diopter adjustment' ring until the image snaps into focus … do not turn the centre wheel focus again … only turn the diopter adjustment + and – ring on the RHS eyepiece. As the diopter ring is turned, the RHS image will snap in and out of focus. When the RHS eyepiece image is in best focus you can then open your left eye … whence you should be able to see a perfectly circular, three dimensional, perfectly focused, binocular image using both eyes

Now that the RHS eyepiece has been adjusted you should be able to adjust the focus via the centre wheel only for any distance … and without further RHS eyepiece diopter adjustment.

Make a note of the actual RHS eyepiece diopter adjustment … it will be either a PLUS (+) or MINUS (-) or ZERO setting … which will suit your eyes and can be set every time you use the binocular. You can mark the RHS eyepiece diopter correction setting with a tiny piece of sticky tape to assist setting up the bino each time you use it.

If your binocular does not have a centre wheel focus it probably relies on separate / individual eyepiece focusing – in which case, after adjusting the hinge to obtain the perfectly circular image, focus each eyepiece separately and with the other eye closed

Health and Safety Warning: Never use binoculars for observing the Sun … to do so risks instant blindness from the Sun’s invisible UV light.

[gunner]

Huge number of technical points that will be covered better by others, but in my experience you can't beat going to a decent shop to try them out.

[JonRA]

After a similar thread and sundial's very useful input, I opted for a pair of Swarovski 8x30 Habicht https://www.swarovskioptik.com/fr/en...s/habicht-8x30 which I suspect will look remarkably like the pair you have already (I've also got an elderly pair of Jena 8x30). The Swarovski are fantastic binoculars - the only criticism I have of them is that the focusing ring is quite stiff, especially when new (this is well recognised). As an aside, although they look very similar to the Jena's, they are waterproof, which is not the case for the older bins.

Why did I buy an 'old fashioned' pair of porro bins? I prefer the extra 3D effect they give, compared to the newer style and also they represent better value (all other things being equal).

[higham5]

Start here: www.bestbinocularsreviews.com/blog...and refine what you think you need to know, please. Bargains are always in demand, but may not fulfil your needs. How much are you prepared to pay? How much are you prepared to carry (or not if you're observing from a fixed site)? How far away are your targets (insects are interesting and observing birds may be different to wildlife in general)?

I read your OP as wanting an upgrade to general purpose binoculars, but it would help to know any particular scenarios you may wish to deal with.

Cracking resource that PickleB , written is a simple style that I can understand.

[sundial]

Huge number of technical points that will be covered better by others, but in my experience you can't beat going to a decent shop to try them out.

True, but many 'shops' sales people do not have much knowledge the about the products their suppliers have persuaded them to offer – unless buyers visit a decent retailer, e.g., Cley Spy:

https://www.cleyspy.co.uk

'Trying them out' involves proper and correct, "setting up". All new binoculars 'look good' – but the goodness is in the "correct setting up before observing"

Three tips:
1) Never ever buy ZOOM binoculars ... they may look classy but it's not possible to collimate them accurately throughout their zoom range and very few technicians will repair them. And their exit pupils are usually too small to be practical at the higher magnifications.
2) Never buy 'focus free' binoculars ... they'll not be suitable for all distances – especially close-up observing
3) Remember when buying a binocular you are in effect buying two mounted / hinged telescopes. Few people would buy a cheap £25 telescope so why be satisfied with a cheapo £25 binocular? You get what you pay for.

dunk

[IdiotAbroad]

I did some research on this a while back, as well as reading some of Sundial's excellent wisdom on several similar threads. I went for Swarovski Pocket Mountain CL 8x25. I spend a lot of time in the mountains so want something I could easily carry. The best binos in the world are no use if they're at home! They have been superb.

[gunner]

True, but many 'shops' sales people do not have much knowledge the about the products their suppliers have persuaded them to offer – unless buyers visit a decent retailer, e.g., Cley Spy:

I went to One Stop Nature Shop just down the road in Brancaster.

[magirus]

I did some research on this a while back, as well as reading some of Sundial's excellent wisdom on several similar threads. I went for Swarovski Pocket Mountain CL 8x25. I spend a lot of time in the mountains so want something I could easily carry. The best binos in the world are no use if they're at home! They have been superb.

Portability was an important factor when as was choosing my Leicas. However there's still the attraction of something that can be shoved in a coat pocket, "just in case". Like most things on this forum, binoculars can be a deep rabbit hole. So far I've resisted these. ;-)

[PickleB]

Cracking resource that PickleB , written is a simple style that I can understand.

Glad to hear that you found it useful. I use their Glossary for reference along with their Buyer and User Guides

The exit pupil has been mentioned several times in this thread and while they publish this guide, I found this article interesting: Are 32mm Binoculars all you Need?

[sprite1275]

Portability was an important factor when as was choosing my Leicas. However there's still the attraction of something that can be shoved in a coat pocket, "just in case". Like most things on this forum, binoculars can be a deep rabbit hole. So far I've resisted these. ;-)

Just do it. They are the bins I use the most.

[PickleB]

Portability was an important factor when as was choosing my Leicas. However there's still the attraction of something that can be shoved in a coat pocket, "just in case". Like most things on this forum, binoculars can be a deep rabbit hole. So far I've resisted these. ;-)

I have the 10 x 25 model and cannot fault them. Looking (unsuccessfully) for a comparison review I came across this offer at SWOptics:

Used | second hand | ex demo (not sure which) Leica 10x25 Ultravid BR Compact, black rubber with pouch and Leica neck strap, excellent condition, £329

That is where I bought my bigger Leica binoculars (10 x 42) on a similar offer.

[M1011]

Potentially dumb question incoming, but is there a way to compare the optical zoom distance of a camera lens to the optical magnification given by a pair of binoculars?

So for example, what magnification of binoculars would I need to give me the equivalent magnification of a 500mm (FF) lens? Thanks

[sundial]

Potentially dumb question incoming, but is there a way to compare the optical zoom distance of a camera lens to the optical magnification given by a pair of binoculars?

So for example, what magnification of binoculars would I need to give me the equivalent magnification of a 500mm (FF) lens? Thanks

https://asia.canon/en/campaign/binoc.../magnification

and

https://skyandtelescope.org/observin...pe-calculator/


if you placed a 50mm lens behind your 500mm lens the magnification = 500 / 50 = 10x

There are other considerations to take into account , e.g., EXIT PUPIL which is the objective diameter divided by the magnification. A too low exit pupil e.g., 2mm will generally not provide a sufficoently bright image for low light observing. A too high exit pupil e.g., 7mm or 8mm , will be wasted on many observers' eyes, because their own eyes' maximum pupil diameter is usually 6mm and less .... and could be as low as 3mm or 4mm as we age and the pupil becomes smaller. A smaller diameter eye pupil will never see the 'full image brightness' of a large objective diameter telescope's or binocular's large exit pupil

[gunner]

Potentially dumb question incoming, but is there a way to compare the optical zoom distance of a camera lens to the optical magnification given by a pair of binoculars?

So for example, what magnification of binoculars would I need to give me the equivalent magnification of a 500mm (FF) lens? Thanks

I think it would be the equivalent of 10x bins.

[PickleB]

Potentially dumb question incoming, but is there a way to compare the optical zoom distance of a camera lens to the optical magnification given by a pair of binoculars?

So for example, what magnification of binoculars would I need to give me the equivalent magnification of a 500mm (FF) lens? Thanks

Canon says "a 10x binoculars magnification is equivalent to a 500mm super-telephoto lens", see Comparison with Camera Lens Focal Length.

[reggie747]

Canon says "a 10x binoculars magnification is equivalent to a 500mm super-telephoto lens", see Comparison with Camera Lens Focal Length.

As pretty much said above - For a long time, a 50mm standard lens on a full frame or film camera, was referenced as standard vision ie. what the eye saw so dividing 50 into the camera lens focal length work pretty well. Thus 500mm divided by 50 = 10 (x)

[sundial]

With a nature reserve literally in my doorstep and with the light nights here again we are spending more evenings walking and sitting up watching the amazing wildlife.

I have ZERO idea where to start and have read back on previous threads but hoping for some guidance and links to some potential deals out there. I currently have a ropey old 30ish yo pair of Carl Zeiss Jena Jenopten 8x30 we use.

Cheers in advance chaps

Pitch

Your 'ropey' (not) porro prism binocular's typical s/h dealer price https://www.lcegroup.co.uk/Used/Zeis...71_363264.html

And a better s/h CZ (West) porro bino which has not sold ... maybe because it 'looks old fashioned' https://www.lcegroup.co.uk/Used/Zeis...74_366757.html

[redmonaco]

Depends how much you will use them but I find these are brilliant for occasional use

https://www.argos.co.uk/product/5800...noculars:2:6:1

Less than £60!!

[sundial]

Depends how much you will use them but I find these are brilliant for occasional use

https://www.argos.co.uk/product/5800...noculars:2:6:1

Less than £60!!

It's a ZOOM binocular. One of the reviews:

very poor

Rating 1 out of 5
1
20 July 2022
Range
1 of 5
Quality
1 of 5
Design
1 of 5
Use: Wildlife and Nature
Probably the worst binoculars I have ever handled very very poor could not focus them and was like looking down a telescope will never buy this brand again these were taken straight back to the shop, actually worse than useless.. I only gave them ! star because the option is not available to give zero

alfie, 65 or over, Berwick

Helpful (3)
Unhelpful (6)

But seriously, any manufacturer of this binocular is likely to 'corner cut' in order to enable profits for 1) the factory, 2) the exporter / importer 3) the retailer . Not manufactured by Celestron – they're badge engineered by the Chinese factory for Celestron. Does the instrument hold collimation throughout its zoom range? Doubtful. But some consumers are quite happy to wear a cheap Chinese watch .... because the 'price is right'

[redmonaco]

It's a ZOOM binocular. One of the reviews:

very poor

Rating 1 out of 5
1
20 July 2022
Range
1 of 5
Quality
1 of 5
Design
1 of 5
Use: Wildlife and Nature
Probably the worst binoculars I have ever handled very very poor could not focus them and was like looking down a telescope will never buy this brand again these were taken straight back to the shop, actually worse than useless.. I only gave them ! star because the option is not available to give zero

alfie, 65 or over, Berwick

Helpful (3)
Unhelpful (6)

But seriously, any manufacturer of this binocular is likely to 'corner cut' in order to enable profits for 1) the factory, 2) the exporter / importer 3) the retailer . Not manufactured by Celestron – they're badge engineered by the Chinese factory for Celestron. Does the instrument hold collimation throughout its zoom range? Doubtful. But some consumers are quite happy to wear a cheap Chinese watch .... because the 'price is right'

Well, I think you are being a little unfair and also a bit snobby...

You picked one of only 6 really bad reviews when in fact nearly 93% of buyers voted 4 or 5 stars. And with 118 5 star reviews Vs just 6 giving them 1 Star.

Watch analogy is not logical either as binoculars are hardly a thing that will be used daily. In fact it'll be probably a rare use item.

Most people I am sure would be perfectly happy with these, as I am.

I don't feel the need to pay fortune's for what is really a diminishing return in viewing quality. And I don't need to say "look how much I paid" for things either :0)

[M1011]

Thanks for the answers. I was using a 500mm lens as a spotting scope on a trip last week and it weighed a ton holding that thing up to scan shorelines. Might have to invest in some decent 10x binoculars for next time

[reggie747]

Thanks for the answers. I was using a 500mm lens as a spotting scope on a trip last week and it weighed a ton holding that thing up to scan shorelines. Might have to invest in some decent 10x binoculars for next time

Save all your milk bottle tops, sell some internal organs and try and get the Canon IS options. Makes quite a difference (or invest in a good decent tripod for less money and less manoeuvrability)

[PickleB]

From the site I linked to above...Do Zoom Binoculars Work?:

The idea of being able to scan an area and then zoom in to get more detail on a particular object sounds ideal, but do Zoom binoculars actually work and if so, how well?

The answer is both yes they 'work', but how well depends on a number of factors.

Let me explain, they do work in that you can zoom into an object. However they do not compare to the quality of image that you get through a good fixed magnification binocular.

The view through the variable ones that I have tested tend to be a little fuzzy in comparison to high end fixed magnification binoculars and they often have a much smaller field of view. This often makes them far less suitable for uses like birdwatching or anywhere where you need to be able to quickly lock onto a subject or scan wide open areas.

I think a telling point here is that of all manufacturers of binoculars, not many/any of the real high end, quality brands like Steiner, Kowa, Swarovski or Zeiss have zoom binoculars in their lineups.

Could this because they don't want to risk their reputation on something that is a little gimmicky or is it because they are not progressive enough? Of the companies that do make zoom binoculars, the best are Nikon, Bushnell, Olympus, Pentax and Celestron.

[sundial]

Well, I think you are being a little unfair and also a bit snobby...

You picked one of only 6 really bad reviews when in fact nearly 93% of buyers voted 4 or 5 stars. And with 118 5 star reviews Vs just 6 giving them 1 Star.

Watch analogy is not logical either as binoculars are hardly a thing that will be used daily. In fact it'll be probably a rare use item.

Most people I am sure would be perfectly happy with these, as I am.

I don't feel the need to pay fortune's for what is really a diminishing return in viewing quality. And I don't need to say "look how much I paid" for things either :0)

Apologies if my opinion appears unfair. It's a well known fact that zoom binoculars cannot and do not perform as well as fixed ocular instruments.
I'll always try and dissuade others from buying poor quality binoculars. All binoculars work and there is a demand for zoom binoculars but they are not recommended for serious observing.

Please consider reading 2.2 in this link https://www.apexeloptic.com/binocula...magnification/. and note the negative comments

[Low-Key]

Hi

In my opinion the above website does some good reviews.............if not committed to a pair already....

L-K

[Chris_in_the_UK]

It's a well known fact that zoom binoculars cannot and do not perform as well as fixed ocular instruments.

This, end of.

There is no suggestion of 'look what I paid' involved.

[Pitch3110]

Well many thanks all and my god this is a whole new minefield.

Cheers @sundial for your time and heck I didn’t realise that old birthday present from my dad was worth that much, I thought a couple of hundred would be a nice upgrade, perhaps not……

I will chuck a WTB up as we do share mine and another pair would be nice.

Thanks again all.

Pitch

[sundial]

Well many thanks all and my god this is a whole new minefield.

Cheers @sundial for your time and heck I didn’t realise that old birthday present from my dad was worth that much, I thought a couple of hundred would be a nice upgrade, perhaps not……

I will chuck a WTB up as we do share mine and another pair would be nice.

Thanks again all.

Pitch

... and will save each of you having to frequently readjust the binoculars. If you're ever near Cley Next Sea on your travels, you might consider visiting Cley Spy to try some of their high end binos - and see the difference between Chinese and Austrian / German / Japanese models. And your 'ropey' CZ Jena bino could be serviced / cleaned for a little as £40 by http://binocular-repair.co.uk/holida...pair-examples/ . My WW2 and WW1 British porro binos were serviced by Tony Kay at Optrep. https://www.opticalrepairs.com/notices.htm. I lend binoculars to star party attendees and they're amazed at how good the views are through properly set up vintage instruments. No need to spend a fortune to obtain a good binocular if bought s/h.

[nickyboyo]

I currently have a ropey old 30ish yo pair of Carl Zeiss Jena Jenopten 8x30 we use.

Cheers in advance chaps

Pitch

Stick with what you got mate, don't waste money on the latest gizmos when you have a fine pair of binos at hand.


Sent from my IN2013 using Tapatalk

[Mj2k]

Ok, bumping this for some thoughts.

Want some binoculars for motorsport usage, which suggests 8x magnification and light weight (Jessops compact 1kg (!) ones, I’m looking at you).

Will only be used a 4-5 times a year, but need a pair for myself and my wife - no sharing each lap. Ideally at the cheaper end with a max of £100 a pair.

Pentax have a pair that reviews well but 9x might be a bit too wobbly from what I’m reading, equally is 8 to 9 such a big jump?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Binoculars-...191515889&th=1

Any thoughts or advice greatly appreciated.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[PickleB]

^ ^ ^ ^ ^

See Pentax Papilio II 8.5x21 Binoculars Review...currently on offer as a Prime Exclusive Deal.

Consider the 6x21 version if you think their wider field of view might be more suitable for your application.

[Mj2k]

^ ^ ^ ^ ^

See Pentax Papilio II 8.5x21 Binoculars Review...currently on offer as a Prime Exclusive Deal.

Consider the 6x21 version if you think their wider field of view might be more suitable for your application.

Perfect, thank you & ordered the 6.5x version.

2 savings so far on prime means I can be buying something else with my man maths!

[sish101]

I've just ordered a pair as well (the 8.5 x 21) on Prime.

If, as I hope, I retire at the end of September, I intend to regularly cycle out to the coast. These seem a good compromise of quality, size, weight and cost. No point in having anything hefty if they're a pain to lug about.

Sent through the ether by diddling with radio waves

[bloater]

I'm after a pair of compact binoculars for my daughter to take to Borneo this summer, so she can use them to look at the wildlife.
Not looking to spend a fortune sub £100 would be ideal but sub £150 tops.
Happy to look at new or used, so just need some suggestions.

Sent from my SM-S918B using Tapatalk

[sish101]

I'm after a pair of compact binoculars for my daughter to take to Borneo this summer, so she can use them to look at the wildlife.
Not looking to spend a fortune sub £100 would be ideal but sub £150 tops.
Happy to look at new or used, so just need some suggestions.

Sent from my SM-S918B using Tapatalk

https://amzn.eu/d/9AsKx6t


I'll write up a quick review when they arrive.

Sent through the ether by diddling with radio waves

[Mj2k]

Perfect, thank you & ordered the 6.5x version.

2 savings so far on prime means I can be buying something else with my man maths!

Ok they have arrived, great quality but slightly bulkier than I would like due to the prism type. Got some 8x Pentax roof prism ones ordered too, that I think my wife will prefer as smaller to carry & therefore more use.

Deal of the day for Prime Members: Pentax AD 8 x 25 WP Roof Prism Binocular https://amzn.eu/d/jdJ1VoH

Shame they don’t do 6X in this though.

[Mj2k]

Ok, so prefer the form factor of the ones on the right, but the focus wheel on the left ones is much easier to move.

Right hand ones are waterproof too, but I’m a fair weathered watcher of motorsport. No chance I’m sitting out in the elements to watch.

I keep telling myself I’d take a smaller pair more places but the larger ones are hardly massive & I’ve not taken binoculars anywhere in years!

Without being trackside it’s a hard one to judge with respect to field of view. Think I may er on the side of caution and go with the 6X magnification.

[sish101]

A quick review of the Pentax Papilio II (8.5 x 21).

They feel robust but are not that heavy that they'll be noticeable as extra weight in a backpack. Compact enough to fit in my coat pocket and almost in the palm of my hand. The centre focus wheel is precise as is the right-eye adjuster wheel. From the brief spell I had out in the garden, the image quality appears crisp and bright. What is amazing is the close focus of these binoculars. I probably looked very strange to any neighbours watching when I perched in front of a lavender bush with my binoculars on, the detail which I saw on the bees was quite amazing. Sadly none of them would stay still long enough for me to get my mobile phone's camera focused through them, so I had to take an indoor picture of an electric clock, through the binoculars.

I'm looking forward to some time on the beach this weekend and giving them a good test with the strange mix of wildlife and shipping that you get in Tees Bay.

Sent through the ether by diddling with radio waves

[Mj2k]

A quick review of the Pentax Papilio II (8.5 x 21).

They feel robust but are not that heavy that they'll be noticeable as extra weight in a backpack. Compact enough to fit in my coat pocket and almost in the palm of my hand. The centre focus wheel is precise as is the right-eye adjuster wheel. From the brief spell I had out in the garden, the image quality appears crisp and bright. What is amazing is the close focus of these binoculars. I probably looked very strange to any neighbours watching when I perched in front of a lavender bush with my binoculars on, the detail which I saw on the bees was quite amazing. Sadly none of them would stay still long enough for me to get my mobile phone's camera focused through them, so I had to take an indoor picture of an electric clock, through the binoculars.

I'm looking forward to some time on the beach this weekend and giving them a good test with the strange mix of wildlife and shipping that you get in Tees Bay.

Sent through the ether by diddling with radio waves

Yes, completely agree the close focus is literally astounding with them isn't it.

I find it weird that you have to make them the largest possible to fit the lens cap cover on though - the smaller pair I also have do the exact opposite; this is my only niggle.

[PickleB]

Yes, completely agree the close focus is literally astounding with them isn't it.

I find it weird that you have to make them the largest possible to fit the lens cap cover on though - the smaller pair I also have do the exact opposite; this is my only niggle.

I can only think that opening them out for storage gives them the least depth. Unless they have changed the design, the eyepiece rain cover should fit even if the lenses are further together (see YouTube @ 1m50s) as the centre piece is flexible.

[Mj2k]

I can only think that opening them out for storage gives them the least depth. Unless they have changed the design, the eyepiece rain cover should fit even if the lenses are further together (see YouTube @ 1m50s) as the centre piece is flexible.

You are an utter legend, I had not even thought of that - thank you!

Newb question, is there any idea why only the eyepiece has a cover & not the other end?

I am keeping the 6x as it makes more sense from what I have read - appreciate the guidance, and looks like a couple of others have decided too!

[PickleB]

You are an utter legend, I had not even thought of that - thank you!

Newb question, is there any idea why only the eyepiece has a cover & not the other end?

I am keeping the 6x as it makes more sense from what I have read - appreciate the guidance, and looks like a couple of others have decided too!

The reasoning that I have come up with is that when worn on the neck strap it is the eyepieces that need a rain cover. In use the objectives are either fairly deeply recessed or covered by a plain piece of glass...depending upon which photos you are looking at. I think mine are the latter. The glass will protect the optical surfaces from dust, dirt and fingers, rather like using UV filter on a camera lens. Their main protection is being kept in the case. Be glad, not having a cover for the objective lens is one less item to put away when they're in use and then get lost or challenge you to remember where you put it. The eyepiece cover attaches rather neatly to the neck stap to prevent it from straying.

[Mj2k]

The reasoning that I have come up with is that when worn on the neck strap it is the eyepieces that need a rain cover. In use the objectives are either fairly deeply recessed or covered by a plain piece of glass...depending upon which photos you are looking at. I think mine are the latter. The glass will protect the optical surfaces from dust, dirt and fingers, rather like using UV filter on a camera lens. Their main protection is being kept in the case. Be glad, not having a cover for the objective lens is one less item to put away when they're in use and then get lost or challenge you to remember where you put it. The eyepiece cover attaches rather neatly to the neck stap to prevent it from straying.

That makes sense 100%, the smaller option bino was a singular cap for each lens!

Thank you so much for the guidance, am going for the one you recommended, ticks so many boxes for us both.

[Tifa]

Opticron Aurora 10x42 roof prism.
Amazingly good.
English design, manufactured in Japan.
Brilliant after sales service too.