Reply With QuoteLovely watch and great write up. I think these are a bit of a steal. Enjoy.
I’ve already shown this on the Friday and Incoming threads, but hope you don’t mind the unboxing pics and some thoughts. It’s wordy, and picture heavy, sorry.
After a wait of a little over 13 months my 99.1M finally arrived yesterday. The TZ collective has supported me with this, with dial choices and then engraving angst.
This is the 99.1M, so 40mm, and the dial is a traditional silver plated brass. I did go for the €1000 Euro extra engraved option, which uses a supersized template and pantograph to give the dial an interesting depth effect.
Dornbluth allow you to mutilate the watch and reduce its resale value for free with a movement engraving, but as this is a watch for life, and personal to me, I have done exactly that, although I kept it to just initials.
Anyway, here it is, from unboxing to wrist, along with some build images. I’m a terrible photographer, it’s much more stunning in the flesh.
A demagnetiser, how thoughtful
I did find myself in an unfamiliar position in considering this type of watch. The great majority of my watches are straightforward tool watches, Seiko divers, CWC, 5 digit Rolex, Sinn etc. I did yearn for something else, something not a sports watch, nor something on the boundary such as Oyster Perpetual / Aqua Terra etc (ignoring the fact I have requested a DateJust). I did want manual wind, and just a subsidiary second dial. I did like the idea of a bit of old fashioned horological craft, rather than something mass produced, even if mass produced was technically better. I liked the idea of a pocket watch derived movement. So what to get?
I did give some short lived thought to the Trinity along with Lange, but I have difficulty with these. To be honest they are a lot more than I wanted to spend, and I would be self-conscious wearing something so expensive. The ones I gave thought to, Vacheron Traditionelle, Lange 1815 are quite simple mechanical objects with a large jewellery and luxury dimension, and I wasn’t really on board with that.
I did consider JLC, but the emblematic Reverso I have tried to like in the flesh, but just don’t. I did evaluate a Master moonphase as they didn’t have the Master thin small seconds in store, but I just didn’t get any frisson of excitement. Grand Seiko have fine finishing, but I couldn’t gel with any of their designs. Glashutte PanoReserve? They are lovely, but a bit Lange derivative, and a bit loud on the wrist. I think that’s an unfair analysis of GO, the PanoReserve is a great watch. Maybe something independent then. Dornbluth initially dismissed as too big at 42mm. Hentschel H1 looked nice, but they got very expensive after we left the EU, and the movement is a very highly modified AS1130. I decided it was Habring’s Felix, and last year I went to buy one that Stewarts watches in Leicester had in stock, but then in the flesh, it didn’t do it for me. What stopped me was the case between the lugs wasn’t finished properly, and the dial supplier had changed and there was no longer guilloche on the second dial, and it seemed basic. Back to the drawing board.
I became aware of the 40mm Dornbluth 99.1M, and Jana was kind enough to send me a case with attached strap, as well as silver and ceramic dial options with engraved and printed details. Size is good, not exactly thin at 10mm, but OK. Engraved silver dial looks amazing, so decision made.
So 13 and a bit month wait, £5000, what do I think of it?
This is a very unusual kind of watch for me, but I love it, I think it's beautiful. Being honest, it isn’t a Lange, it’s steel, it doesn’t have the thinness nor the level of finishing finesse, lovely as it is. I think the dial could teach Lange a thing or two when compared with the 1815. The engraving gives it real depth and is time consuming to do, the second dial is a separate piece of brass for extra depth. I think the Dornblüth dial has better balance, the Made in Germany is in a much more natural position and losing the 6 is better than Lange truncating it.
It is a watch that comes from a world free of automated production, luxury boutiques and all that faff. Ordering one is a very personal experience, and they are a delightful company to deal with. I’m sure it isn’t the technical tour de force of a modern Rolex, but I value it for what it is.
Would I do it again? Well I’m in the first flush of love, so ask me in a year, but so far, I wouldn’t be happier.
Dave
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Last edited by helidoc; 17th December 2022 at 17:00.
Lovely watch and great write up. I think these are a bit of a steal. Enjoy.
I think they are a bit of a bargain for what they are!
Also love the (walnut?) holder for the head.
(You might want to split the photographs - as it looks like a chronology where you received the watch and then either stripped it down, or had to assemble it on your kitchen table)
Lovely watch looks like a Maurice Grossman in picture 6 ,I like these small companies making individual watches , a throwback to what watchmaking used to be like , Laine are another similar company known for affordable guilloche dials
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Dave that’s fantastic, proper thing for a true enthusiast.
Enjoy
Congratulations
I also have a new one arriving early January . I delayed it being posted so that it didn’t get caught up in the strikes and carrier issues over Christmas.
Interested to read about the interaction with Dornbluth as I just ordered it and then 14months later it’s ready. I didn’t get test cases, straps or discussion of engraving. Did you instigate that or have I been profiled as “ troublesome !
Excellent stuff. Thanks for the pics and the write up.
Looks great. I particularly like the engraved dial and the texture of the finish. I've always like the look of Dornbluth watches but have never taken the plunge. I have a Habring incoming which will probably be the only dressier watch I need but I'm still tempted by one of these, especially now they come in smaller case sizes.
Looks spectacular Dave. I bet the winding is a joy with that big crown. Congratulations, all the best!
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Originally Posted by joe narvey
I knew about the test cases from a post by 893bet. Jana asked me if I wanted a personal engraving after I ordered, the previews came in July, and then I changed my mind before the final choice. Looking at my emails, it’s probably 30 in each direction over the 13 months. I don’t think I’m particularly demanding.
D
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It is lovely to wind, much more do than my other two manual winders, an alpha engined Nomos Tangente and a very old IWC Cal 89
D
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A milestone birthday next had me drop them an email enquiry regarding a moonphase I enquired about have a couple of red pops on the dial / date wheel.
It’s one of many options I’m looking at including jlc master pc, vacheron 56 etc.
I would not have gone for engraving, but a series of photos showing the serial number would have been lovely. Oh, well.
I had two emails, one confirming the order and the final Invoice!
Last edited by joe narvey; 17th December 2022 at 20:00.
You're the dream customer
Very lovely watch, and nice to hear that buying so pricey a trinket was actually pleasant - seems a rare thing in the world of watches.
I've never seen a Dornblüth I didn't like, and that is certainly not something I can say of many other makers.
Congratulations, enjoy.
P.S. I've been tempted by the 99.1 for years, for me it would be blued hands and blue applied numerals.
Congratulations, it's stunning!
I ordered one earlier this year too, and it arrives late next summer. I can't wait.
I'm considering visiting them to collect it in person, as it would make it that bit more special for me.
Mine is also a silver dial, but is more heavily custom. So not one I can, or will, ever sell.
I agree. Rare to get something so hand-made at anything like this price.
It also makes it possible to highly personalise the watch to yourself.
15 months for mine. I didn't get any cases or straps either.
But we did discuss both dial and movement engraving & design and they created a number of renders for me.
I think these are beautiful watches and the personalisation is a lovely touch if a keeper.
Great read , and you have clearly done your research using the soles of your feet.
I feel we are often guilty of researching something thoroughly “ on a screen”, committing to buy it based on others interpretations. Then when the item arrives, the reality is lacking in certain areas.
With 30 emails back and forth, you are clearly invested in this watch , way above the £5k consideration. A lovely watch, worth the wait and personal to you.
Great write up,and a stunning watch.
I mean photos of the watch being built and tested. If it included my actual serial number I’d consider I had a very full set.
Ah ok, drop them an email you never know.
A very special watch, which you know is very unique to you.
That is what I love about small independent manufacturers.
My Hentschel says hi :D
Congrats mate for getting yourself a lovely watch. Not a status symbol, not a marketing vehicle, not a luxury investment, but a watch. As watchy as they come.
Very nice.
Do you suppose yours is the 827th 99.1 in total?
I got mine in September 2010 & it's # 273
Andy
Wanted - Damasko DC57
I think so Andy
I’ve looked through some movement pictures and some newer or more niche watches have quite low numbers, so I think it is movement specific. I think it’s a reasonable hypothesis. 4 99.1 a month sounds about right.
Dave
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I am 781 from early this March/April.
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