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Thread: luxury tool watch diver for next year....

  1. #1
    Master
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    luxury tool watch diver for next year....

    Lately I'm thinking about the possibility that next year I let go 2 or 3 nice watches and buy myself one 'luxury' dive watch, but still a capable diver, I can where everywhere.

    I've shortlisted my three candidates

    - Rolex 124060
    - Seiko SLGA001
    - GO Sea Q (small date)

    I have been playing the pros and cons of each for some time in my mind.

    Ok so the Rolex. The watch I really want (I think) is the Rolex 124060 But there are so many difficulties with getting that watch. I'm not interested in competing with insta posers, in fact if I paid extra I am very sure I would hate the watch for that fact, so will never pay a tenner over retail. I'm not even sure it's worth it's retail price, but with reasale being so good, I'm happy to try. Happened to me with the 14060M and the 114060. I still very much wish I kept the 14060M for it's classic, no nonsense approach that to date it has not been done again, but at 4K Euro I still doubted it's value as a watch to wear, use and enjoy everywhere and not as an investment. Especially considering an SBDX001 was 1K Euro and a Bond SMP was 1.5K Euro at the time. The 114060 I bought new did nothing with it's blocky case and I ended up losing over1K Euro selling it a year or so later. The 124060 solves this and as one who rotates watches daily I have really come to appreciate the 70hr PR on my Pelagos, so that would be superb feature on the 3230. Question is, will it ever be possible to buy a Sub at retail in the near future?

    I really like the SLGA001 and would like to try my first spring drive, one arguable can't do much better than the 9RA5. I have tried the 600m hobnail GS while on holiday and was mesmerized. One only issue is the large diameter of the case and thickness. How I wish it was 42mm. It's finish, dark blue dial, 5 day PR and exclusivity are hard to ignore though.

    The last watch I have been seriously eyeing lately is the Sea Q (not the panorama date). I am not sure bout the large numerals, but I like basically everything else about it. Oh, and I really couldn't choose between the blue or green dial. I would like to learn more about how reliable and easy to service the 39-11 Caliber is and also about it's design, but info is hard to come by online.

    I would like to hear about your opinions on all these watches and also your thoughts :).
    Last edited by buddy13; 1st December 2022 at 13:26.

  2. #2
    Master
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    I love the GO. Especially the blue dial and they have the best bracelet link removal and clasp micro adjust system I have ever used. I’m not a fan of PCL on the bracelet but you could always have them brushed. If the ones you have suggested this is the way I would go.

    If the Rolex is the one you really want go to a few AD’s and just have a conversation. The way the market is if you cast your net wide you could have one quicker than you think.

    Don’t compromise on what you really want.

  3. #3
    Grand Master Sinnlover's Avatar
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    I would say try and obtain the watch you really want, it will take effort, you may have to compromise (pay over retail) but it’s the watch you really want, anything will be a substitute.
    That said out of three you list I would take the GO in blue,

    As a left field option what about a Blancpain Bathyscaphe? I spent a bit of time looking at these and the Fifty Fathoms at the weekend.
    I could soon be selling a few watches to fund one…
    Last edited by Sinnlover; 1st December 2022 at 13:04.

  4. #4
    Grand Master
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    If you really want the 124060 without paying a tenner over get on a waitlist for one.
    Supply is increasing and the no date is not the one that Joe Public is looking for so the wait may not be as long as you think.

    No point offering an opinion on the others, as nice as they are, if there's only one in the serious want category.

  5. #5
    If you get the Seiko (I've had a couple of Spring Drive Tunas) you'll just be forever explaining to people that it's more than just a normal cheap Seiko whilst they glaze over. Plus the clasp and diver's extension are pretty poor. Would be a Sub or FF every day of the week for me - or the regular Grand Seiko quartz diver SBGX335.

  6. #6
    Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by verv View Post
    If you really want the 124060 without paying a tenner over get on a waitlist for one.
    There's only one Rolex AD where I live and they won't take my name, 'Lists are full' is their reply.

    I don't know where to ask. I'd be happy to wait.

  7. #7
    Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Manxdiver View Post
    If you get the Seiko (I've had a couple of Spring Drive Tunas) you'll just be forever explaining to people that it's more than just a normal cheap Seiko whilst they glaze over. Plus the clasp and diver's extension are pretty poor. Would be a Sub or FF every day of the week for me - or the regular Grand Seiko quartz diver SBGX335.
    Haha, while I know what you mean, it really doesn't bother me that everyone thinks it's just another Seiko :).

    I like it in fact. I call it the anti-Rolex effect.

  8. #8
    Master
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    All good watches, but don't buy the wrong watch just to get one. I've done it before and I soon move them on.

    I've got the 114 and 124 and if you don't get on with the 114 you'll probably love the 124. I'm the other way around and find the overall dimensions especially the clasp and bracelet too big but it's personal to us all.

    If you can't get a 124 at list then move your mind onto other things and see if they float your boat, but definitely don't buy a watch you don't really want.

    Waiting lists may ease soon but remember they make date vs no date around 20/1 so maybe trying for a date will help speed things up.

  9. #9
    Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by pete-r View Post
    All good watches, but don't buy the wrong watch just to get one. I've done it before and I soon move them on.

    I've got the 114 and 124 and if you don't get on with the 114 you'll probably love the 124. I'm the other way around and find the overall dimensions especially the clasp and bracelet too big but it's personal to us all.

    If you can't get a 124 at list then move your mind onto other things and see if they float your boat, but definitely don't buy a watch you don't really want.

    Waiting lists may ease soon but remember they make date vs no date around 20/1 so maybe trying for a date will help speed things up.
    Very sound advice.

    Is the 20/1 just an example or is it factual?! I would assume more buyers would buy the date (mostly just for the famous Rolex cyclops, so everyone around knows what it is)!

    As for the date, I really, really like the 126610 LV. A most beautiful hue of green, that is.

  10. #10
    Master
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    The 20/1 was an estimate I heard from Tim Mosso, who knows more that most.

  11. #11
    Master
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    A nice list you have, one I'm sure you would be happy with any of. I've had previous models of the first 2 - an 116610LN sub and SBGA029 Spring Drive diver. Both amazing watches. The Sub is a contender for "THE" watch, however the whole Rolex circus is a bit much these days.
    The GS diver was my dream watch for a long time, and one I cherished for many years. However, as many will say, for a watch trying to be a "luxury diver" it's bracelet and clasp are not class leading.
    This week after selling 3 watches to pay for it, I picked up the GO SeaQ Panorama Date Two Tone. I realise the OP counted the Pano Date out, but having tried both models on, the small date was too small for my liking. I can honestly say that the GO is a massive step up from both the Rolex and GS, and deserves the name "luxury diver" It has the added bonus of being ISO rated for actual diving. The two tone has a display back, putting the beautifully finished movement on display (there's a Two Tone version of the smaller SeaQ available as well)
    What the above is basically saying is go for the GO - you won't be disappointed!!


  12. #12
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    I’d look at a Ulysse Nardin Maxi Marine Diver many variants are available or possibly the Cartier Calibre de Diver.
    The Breitling Superocean Heritage B20 is worth a look too.
    I bought the UN (and the Breitling) both are amazing but the UN is just that little bit more special from the power reserve indicator to the AP style internal cyclops to the dial texture and general finishing it just works (for me).
    Ulysse Nardin’s design language is rather unique and an acquired taste but I love them.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skip View Post
    A nice list you have, one I'm sure you would be happy with any of. I've had previous models of the first 2 - an 116610LN sub and SBGA029 Spring Drive diver. Both amazing watches. The Sub is a contender for "THE" watch, however the whole Rolex circus is a bit much these days.
    The GS diver was my dream watch for a long time, and one I cherished for many years. However, as many will say, for a watch trying to be a "luxury diver" it's bracelet and clasp are not class leading.
    This week after selling 3 watches to pay for it, I picked up the GO SeaQ Panorama Date Two Tone. I realise the OP counted the Pano Date out, but having tried both models on, the small date was too small for my liking. I can honestly say that the GO is a massive step up from both the Rolex and GS, and deserves the name "luxury diver" It has the added bonus of being ISO rated for actual diving. The two tone has a display back, putting the beautifully finished movement on display (there's a Two Tone version of the smaller SeaQ available as well)
    What the above is basically saying is go for the GO - you won't be disappointed!!

    Most beautiful! Wear it in good health :). Any idea how much do GO charge for a movement service?

    PS: I don't like display backs on dive watches.

  14. #14
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    124060 all day. This is for me the best Lux diver on the market in that price range period. All the way from bracelet construction, finishing, comfort, as well as case thickness and general ergonomics of the watch. Then the bullet proof 70 hour cal 3235, all makes this the one to get.

    Having said all that, even though it’s not on your list, I recently acquired a green SM300 Diver and on the rubber strap, it’s just amazing. At half the price of the sub, its def something to consider.

    Last edited by kaiserphoenix; 3rd December 2022 at 03:00.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skip View Post
    A nice list you have, one I'm sure you would be happy with any of. I've had previous models of the first 2 - an 116610LN sub and SBGA029 Spring Drive diver. Both amazing watches. The Sub is a contender for "THE" watch, however the whole Rolex circus is a bit much these days.
    The GS diver was my dream watch for a long time, and one I cherished for many years. However, as many will say, for a watch trying to be a "luxury diver" it's bracelet and clasp are not class leading.
    This week after selling 3 watches to pay for it, I picked up the GO SeaQ Panorama Date Two Tone. I realise the OP counted the Pano Date out, but having tried both models on, the small date was too small for my liking. I can honestly say that the GO is a massive step up from both the Rolex and GS, and deserves the name "luxury diver" It has the added bonus of being ISO rated for actual diving. The two tone has a display back, putting the beautifully finished movement on display (there's a Two Tone version of the smaller SeaQ available as well)
    What the above is basically saying is go for the GO - you won't be disappointed!!

    nice to see another one on the forum!
    the smaller version might be more suited to the OP with no display back etc but unfortunately, GO skimped a bit on the movement specs for it - power reserve is not great and no gold on the rotor.
    I liked the nylon strap as supplied but I found it hard to keep it clean - so bought the OEM rubber strap from Wempe. Took ages to arrive - Wempe were blaming GO, but not too OTT pricewise at £140 iirc.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by bry nylon View Post
    nice to see another one on the forum!
    the smaller version might be more suited to the OP with no display back etc but unfortunately, GO skimped a bit on the movement specs for it - power reserve is not great and no gold on the rotor.
    I liked the nylon strap as supplied but I found it hard to keep it clean - so bought the OEM rubber strap from Wempe. Took ages to arrive - Wempe were blaming GO, but not too OTT pricewise at £140 iirc.
    And here was me thinking i finally had an entry to the “is yours the only one on the forum” thread! I was lucky to find that mine came with both the rubber and nylon straps. Having briefly tried the nylon (looks amazing) its now firmly back on the rubber as its the softest, most comfortable rubber I’ve ever come across. The black really works with the red gold as well.

  17. #17
    Craftsman CafeRacer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by buddy13 View Post
    Lately I'm thinking about the possibility that next year I let go 2 or 3 nice watches and buy myself one 'luxury' dive watch, but still a capable diver, I can where everywhere.

    I've shortlisted my three candidates

    - Rolex 124060
    - Seiko SLGA001
    - GO Sea Q (small date)

    The last watch I have been seriously eyeing lately is the Sea Q (not the panorama date). I am not sure bout the large numerals, but I like basically everything else about it. Oh, and I really couldn't choose between the blue or green dial. I would like to learn more about how reliable and easy to service the 39-11 Caliber is and also about it's design, but info is hard to come by online.

    I would like to hear about your opinions on all these watches and also your thoughts :).
    I've got a significant birthday coming up in just over a year and the GO 39.5mm SeaQ is definitely top of my list at the moment. One possible concern (although not for me as it will be a keeper if I go for one) would be second hand value, I did see a black one recently for sale on bEbay at £6,250 so allow to lose 25% value but then same could be said of most watches other than Rolex.


    Cheers
    Mark

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