Reply With QuoteJust bung a matchstick in the hole
A riveting topic.
Any recommendation for a good filler that will take re-drilling and provide a good anchor for screws?
I could and have googled, but so much chaff, adverts, questionable reviews. TZ-UK knows everything.
I have some Ronseal filler that has been in the shed for years that I suspect is off. I don't remember it being great at drying in deepish holes or being particularly strong.
I have a kitchen cabinet panel on a built in dishwasher. It has been off and on so many times to access the innards to fix errors that the screw holes are trashed and I had to glue it back on. New dishwasher coming, I need to try and pry the panel off, fill and repair ready for mounting on the new dishwasher. I suspect the substrate is some form of chip or MDF board.
I can't buy a replacement panel, it has some form of glass laminate surface that is obsolete as the German manufacturer went bust.
If the panel breaks trying to pry off, then my backup is an MDF panel colour matched until I can get it properly sorted, if ever. Could be trouble ahead if it doesn't match.
Hate Bosch stuff. What is the replacement going to be? Bosch.
Thanks in advance for any top tips.
Coming soon, how do I tie my laces and where can I get a custom kitchen cabinet panel from.
Just bung a matchstick in the hole
All filler (even the 2 pack stuff) is a bit meh. It is hard to get into the base of skinny screw holes too, and very hard to get a good surface bond on a ragged surface like chipboard substrate.
So I would drill oversize and glue in some dowel to suit (readily available in 8, 10 and 12mm diamter size. It is much easier to tap a glue-coated dowel into the full depth of a hole than filler. Then trim off the dowel flush with a bendy pull saw.
Then drill new holes in the dowel.
What Sweets said. As an addendum, assuming the panel is just 18mm thick, plunging a router with depth set to say 15mm will give you a clean, flat bottomed hole with no risk of breakthrough.
Wood filler is pretty good and also strong. You should be able to get it into the old holes well enough.
It sands quite well and can be drilled if needed.
If it’s been lying around a while then maybe get a new tin. It’s quite cheap at places like Toolstation and Screwfix.
Many thanks. Great ways to go.
I do have some 8mm wooden pegs knocking about.
Matchstick! That’s what my dad did for door hinges and it worked well. I guess a matchstick is the same as a bit of dowel.
Filler is nice and easy.
I’ll decide when the door is off and see what condition it is in. I just don’t do enough DIY these days to always have the best answer to mind.
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Last edited by BillyCasper; 6th October 2022 at 12:14.
Besides the dowel or matchstick (does anyone still sell matchsticks?)
You could also mix up sawdust with glue and press it into the hole
Should also buy a small drill bit and drill a pilot hole for the screw. Bit diameter is based on the screw size #
DON
Wooden golf tee snapped worked for me
When you have managed to remove the panel don't just fill the holes & use screws again - put a threaded insert in instead. Then you can use machine screws (bolts) & remove the panel as many times as you like.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/323306435...AOSwVuNbI7Ry&a
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_f...+wood&_sacat=0
Depending on how big the hole is at the moment you could pick a large enough insert which would require the hole to be opened out a little rather than filling. Just don't drill though the panel.
Two pack filler will still set in a deep hole. It can be tricky to fill a deep hole and get a smooth surface on top. One solution is to fill twice, pressing the first application into the hole then filling again when it is set, a few minutes later if using two pack.
Get a different brand ,they all have there own system of fitting the door on ,so more than likely you will not go into the same holes .
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I watched a video of a guy using superglue and cotton wool to fill a hole in a kitchen door which was probably made of chipboard or MDF. The result was what looked like a tough hard surface that allowed him to refix the door hinge.
This just about covers it:
Hadn't heard of superdlue and cotton wool. Superglue and baking soda is excellent for small plastic repairs.Originally Posted by IAmATeaf
Hadn't heard of superdlue and cotton wool either.
Rest of the advice is all good - I have used a hinge drill bit and car body filler when fitting a different make of washing machine as one of the holes overlapped. I was able to cut out the new hinge recess once it had cured but for a threaded screw I would start with the dowel personally.
Thanks for of the tips. Thought I should let you know the result as you were kind enough to offer advice.
Here’s a fascinating picture of the back of the dishwasher fascia panel.
I managed to pry it off with some brute force. Surprised I didn’t break the glass laminate on the front face. The back was pretty grotty with old adhesive residue, dishwasher slop of some black mould.
I went with the drilling out 8mm holes and wood pegs solution. Eight holes in total, 4 are needed to fix, but I had turned it upside down in the past as the original screw holes were worn out.
I liked the furniture thread and machine bolt idea, but wasn’t sure about measuring and ordering in the time available.
Cleaned and slapped on a bit of paint to freshen it up. Not perfect, but I think ready for the new dishwasher. Can’t cope with this hand washing lark.
Lots of ideas for the future as the door will inevitably have to come off and back on a number of times to sort out Error codes down the line.
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Good stuff. Nice to know you got it sorted in the end.
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