Reply With Quotegreat post for a great watch!
Like many on the forum, I’ve flipped and flopped my way through many watches now – vintage, budget, micro-brands and the possibly-inevitable Rolex sports with my collection reaching around 10 at its peak. A while ago however, I decided that with retirement a couple of years away and the requirement of having funds available for our plans in that direction necessitated a slimming down into what I would actually wear regularly and – importantly - would feel comfortable in all situations.
Of all my collection, the only one that has stuck around is the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch and with this and a Rolex 16600 SeaDweller purchase last year I have the sports/casual base covered. As a result, I was after something a little more dressy, but nearing retirement not necessarily to be worn with a suit – more something for a nice meal out or function. Enter a watch brand that I’ve lusted after for years but never managed to bring myself to buy - Glashütte Original.
Tony’s (learningtofly) sales post rekindled my thoughts in this direction, but realistically his marvellous Perpetual Calendar was beyond the level of funding I was willing to allocate to the purchase. Another model I like – the GO Seventies – is simply too large for my wrist in my view, so only half in hope, I stuck up a WTB post for the model that had always tempted me over the years and was fortunately rewarded very quickly with a deal.
The Glashütte Original PanoMaticLunar is perhaps the watch most emblematic of the brand. Whilst it undeniably receives design cues from the A. Lange & Söhne “Lange 1”, it also has its own identity and – in my view – works a little better in many areas. Though nobody would argue that Lange doesn’t have the higher level of finishing they’re not as far apart as you might think from the price tag, much of which could be attributed to Lange using precious metals (except for vanishingly rare steel examples which sell for six figures at auction).
Obviously, the first thing to examine is the dial. You might be concerned that the asymmetric layout would be tricky to accustom yourself. Not a bit of it. It is immediately natural and a testament to the meticulous refinement. Revisions over the years have been beneficial in this respect. You can compare some of the various changes since launch with a quick look at Jocke’s amazing images here:
http://www.watchwallpapers.com/pmlnew1.htm
Past the layout, the most striking thing about the in-house produced dial is its galvanic finish. The dial really needs to be experienced in the metal. It changes with the ambient light from a bright white to silver or champagne and brings a beguiling character to offset the Germanic precision. The timekeeping sub-dials feature a fine guilloche finish complemented by polished applied markers and blued steel hands inlaid with superluminova. Complications wise, the tastefully done moon phase indicator is executed with both moon and stars in silver to catch the light and the large date window is impeccable - one of the areas where I feel they stole a march on Lange. Putting both date disks on the same plane negates the need for an obvious bevel – the GO bevel is much more a discreet finishing than an obvious necessity to improve legibility/balance, as the Lange seems to be.
Turning the watch over rewards you with altogether more flamboyance and demonstration of pure artisanship. Seen through the display back, the 90.02 calibre movement (GO is I believe one of, if not the only brand in the Swatch group with exclusively in house movements) is highly detailed, with chamfered edges, blued screws, a hand-engraved bridge and stripes on the three-quarter plate. The 21ct gold weighted and offset micro-rotor is skeletonized with the company logo and the highly attractive “Duplex Swan Neck Regulator” is on full view. It is tempting when worn to take the watch off simply to gaze at the beautiful movement in action.
All this craftsmanship and attention to detail is housed in a 40mm steel case with brushed/polished surfaces, signed crown and curved lugs that sits perfectly even on my small wrist (6.75”). The height is perhaps a little chunky for an out and out “dress” watch but I think it straddles the line very successfully for occasional dress use – especially with the supplied crocodile strap and deployant. For more casual occasions, I purchased the relatively recently released fabric strap which dresses it all down fabulously.
If you want to break a little away from the norm then I’m extremely impressed with GO and would highly recommend a purchase of this or any of their offerings.
Last edited by Scepticalist; 26th September 2022 at 13:30.
great post for a great watch!
Excellent post OP, I enjoyed reading that very much, thanks for posting.
This is a stunning watch, I like this model in all colours and metals.
Nice write-up, thanks for sharing your thoughts
Early days of renewing my interest in wristwatches, I was slightly repulsed by asymmetric-dialled watches and didn't 'get' Lange's take at-all, but the first time I saw GO's versions, I was smitten. Easily done, I love a moonphase, and I love a big-date, and GO have harmonised the dial proportions nicely. They just need to find a way to incorporate a perpetual calendar similar to the Senator's -
Thanks for the insight. I’ve toyed with the idea of one (back when I had a German watch fever) but couldn’t justify a ‘dress watch’ at the time. Doesn’t really fit into my lifestyle at the moment but hopefully at some stage it just might. Beautiful moon phase complications too
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I need to see a GO in the flesh one of these days.
Much easier than it used to be, Chisholm Hunter are dealers.Originally Posted by Watchmanuk4
I enjoyed that! GO has a lot to offer. I hope you enjoy your for many years to come. Good luck with your retirement. Martyn
“ Ford... you're turning into a penguin. Stop it.” HHGTTG
That is one seriously stunning watch !!!
Enjoy wearing it in good health.
This is a stunning watch. I've always had a thing for the GOs for their big dates. Enjoy!
What a fantastic post. Thanks for sharing your thoughts.
Enjoyed reading that. Thank you. That’s a stunning piece.
My god that watch is fantastic with the bracelet!Nice write-up, thanks for sharing your thoughts
Early days of renewing my interest in wristwatches, I was slightly repulsed by asymmetric-dialled watches and didn't 'get' Lange's take at-all, but the first time I saw GO's versions, I was smitten. Easily done, I love a moonphase, and I love a big-date, and GO have harmonised the dial proportions nicely. They just need to find a way to incorporate a perpetual calendar similar to the Senator's -
And WoS Oxford Circus
I tried on a blue dial version of the same watch while in Hong Kong over the summer. The dealer was offering 20% discount, although I could just about pull off the 40mm size I knew that in the long term I'd find it too overbearing.
For this style of watch which is almost all dial I wouldn't go over 38.5mm of the similar but more expensive Lange 1 but then I much prefer the dial of GO.
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I picked up one of these for as a birthday present recently.
Was, and still am, blown away by it! I love the hands and the moonphase detail.
Whilst out driving my son said that he loved the details on the dial when the sun hits it. This was a spontaneous comment in between the 12 year olds football talk!
There is a heft to it which gives it a presence and that is my only grip. If it was a mm or 2 less high it would be idea.
I am now smitten by the black faced Senator Excellence and am going back and forth on the practicalities of this as a more everyday watch.
A perpetual calendar that you only wear occasionally? I would be concerned that I would never put it on because of the faff in having to set all the complications correctly - not a casual pick up and go, at all. I used to have a watch winder, but sold it because it was a bit of a chore to use, and did not like the idea of my watches always running.
Having said all that, these GO watches look stunning. If I was lucky enough to have one, I think I would have to wear it for weeks at a time to make it worthwhile to set up.
I’m in a real quandary. The PanomaticLunar is on my wish list. I love a white dial and blue strap combo but the blue dial version looks great too. I tried a couple on at Zurich airport a couple of years ago. The grey dial with grey suede strap is fantastic too. I loved it on the Inverse model.
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Ah the older XL version - this watch wears very damn well for a 42mm watch. Mines languishing in the safe, must get it out on rotation and wear it again!Talking of dial colours, I actually had the slate/grey, which was lovely....
Nice review OP - it took me a little while to get into assymetrical dials, but GO does it very well. I bought mine around the same time a colleague bought a Lange 1 and GO held up very well. More sporty and less dressy and the GO had a certain robustness the Lange just didn't have!
I went for “forest green “. It was originally a boutique only colour but now available everywhere.
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Always wondered why the time sub-dial(?) is on the LHS, for most people the most important function and more likely to be hidden under a cuff. Obviously same with ALS - having it on other side (or more radically at top/bottom) might help differentiate it too.
This is the model I had too, absolutely gorgeous watchTalking of dial colours, I actually had the slate/grey, which was lovely....
My cuffs tend to completely hide the dial, or not at all.
Love those. It would be pink gold / white dial for me.
Andy
Wanted - Damasko DC57
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