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Thread: A question for woodworkers..

  1. #1
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    A question for woodworkers..

    I recently ordered some shelves pre-cut from sheet ply. They duly arrived but it turns out they are 2mm too wide (they have to be slid into place between two upright sections of the brackets). What is the best way to remove those 2mm?

    I don't have any power tools and I don't particularly want to stump up a huge amount of cash for this job. With 2mm to take off the 500mm edge of 8 shelves I would guess the job will be too tricky for a hand saw. My limited experience of using a plane makes me think that, as the grains on each ply are at 90 degrees to each other that I would run the risk of splitting it as I found planing across the grain is difficult. I have tried with the the tools I do have which only amounts to a sanding block and paper from 80grit down to 320grit. After an hour I hadn't got very far and what I had done was turn a fine straight edge in to a nice curvaceous one.

    Aaaaaand just to complicate things a little more it is bamboo rather than wood. So far I have worked it as I would for timber and it behaves the same so I am happy to treat it as if it is timber. The board is only three ply but is 19mm thick with the central layer being near on 10mm thick.

  2. #2
    Master unclealec's Avatar
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    A guided router bit is the way to go. The bit has a ball bearing that will follow a guide clamped 2mm from the edge requiring removed.
    You will also need some scrap material to clamp at the downstream end of the cut to avoid breakout.
    If you are passing through Manchester Wil, I can do it for you; otherwise contact a local woodworking FB group.

  3. #3
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    2mm - I’d use a block plane
    https://www.screwfix.com/p/magnusson...B&gclsrc=aw.ds
    Cheap belt sander ?
    Last edited by lewie; 21st September 2022 at 22:41.

  4. #4
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    As mentioned, a router is a good option if you can clamp it etc.
    Iíve had good success with a bandsaw and a Japanese saw in the past.
    If youíre anywhere near me in Berkshire Iíd happily do it for you too.

  5. #5
    Grand Master oldoakknives's Avatar
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    Mark a line so you know where to plane down to. Prevents the curve. Plane from the ends going towards the centre to avoid breakout on the ends. Put planed edge closest to the wall.
    Started out with nothing. Still have most of it left.

  6. #6
    Journeyman DONGinsler's Avatar
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    Low angle block plane could work.

    Any shops near you that might do the job for a price?

    DON

  7. #7
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    Surely just call a local joiner? Take 10mins tops with a plunge saw (yes I know itíll prob cost you £40 odd) but at least theyíll fit, still look good & you wont need to order more plyÖ

  8. #8
    Master Jon Kenney's Avatar
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    Increase the width of your unit by 2mm

  9. #9
    Master Paneraiseeker's Avatar
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    Find someone who has a track saw. 30-second job literally. Failing that clamp a block along your cut to act as a guide and hand saw

  10. #10
    Master reggie747's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paneraiseeker View Post
    Failing that clamp a block along your cut to act as a guide and hand saw
    2mm with any kind of handsaw would be quite an ask I think...

  11. #11
    Master freeloader's Avatar
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    Before you start getting things altered, have you checked all 8 shelves in all 8 positions? You find some variation in shelves and slots.

  12. #12
    Master unclealec's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by reggie747 View Post
    2mm with any kind of handsaw would be quite an ask I think...
    Japanese saws would do it, I think mine is a Dozuki or similar (2-stroke!).
    English style push saws would't cope - most of them have cut widths more than 2mm.
    As mentioned earlier, my trck saw would do the job as well. depends on the quality of cut edge finish rquired really. I wouls still use a guided router straight bit.

  13. #13
    Table saw would do it.

    But, as already suggested, get someone else to do it - likely cheaper than buying tools/equipment.

  14. #14
    Master Paneraiseeker's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by reggie747 View Post
    2mm with any kind of handsaw would be quite an ask I think...
    No straight forward as long as you set a guide up. But as I said a track saw is the best bet. Itís what they are designed for

  15. #15
    Grand Master sundial's Avatar
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    https://www.amazon.co.uk/Stanley-Mou..._id=1938921031

    Clamp the shelf onto another piece of board to form a 'step' and use the block plane on its side to remove required 2mm ... but work from both edges to avoid splintering the far edge. Finish with abrasive paper wrapped around a block.
    "After a certain age you got the face you deserve I think" ... Henri Cartier-Bresson

  16. #16
    Master sweets's Avatar
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    2mm with any kind of plane is a massive job, especially on ply.
    You need the use of a track or plunge saw, which is a circular saw that runs on a rail, which you clamp to the work piece.
    30 seconds marking, 30 seconds clamping the rail on an 10 seconds cutting. Very easy.
    Nothing else will do it so easily, apart from a properly set up table saw, which is a massive piece of kit by comparison.

  17. #17
    Find a local joinery shop ,call in at 12.30,someone will be having a fag outside on his lunch break ,give him the boards and a tenner and heíll do it .
    This is what you should of done in the first place ,loads of people used to call in for little jobs when I worked has an apprentice in the shop .


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  18. #18
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    Thank you all for the advice and the offers of help (if I were closer to either unclealec or bambam I would be knocking on your door).

    I have tried all shelves in all slots, unfortunately no luck. I can't change the width of the slots without having brush up on my brazing which I haven't done in thirty odd years.

    I'll ask around my neighbours to see if any of them are better equipped than I otherwise it looks like I'll treat myself to a new fine toothed saw and/or a box plane and buy some clamps. I have some offcuts which I can practice on first so I don't make a mess. If I do make a mess perhaps I'll sneak into my son's D+T classroom and use their tools.

  19. #19
    Master unclealec's Avatar
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    You would probably find many a use for one of these:

    https://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-e...saw-240v/3875p

    Not exactly cheap, but damn' handy for similar jobs. Might be some s/h ones around.

  20. #20
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    You might be able to find some decent used tools local to you as well. Or maybe even ask on Facebook if anyone can help - if you use it that is. It might also get a local handyman to contact you.
    Slightly different but we have managed to find a local retired plumber for those little jobs that are too much faff for others.
    A few of my friends set up a group on WhatsApp in case one of us needs a tool that isnít worth buying for literally 1 little job.

  21. #21
    Grand Master Mr Curta's Avatar
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    You are approaching the problem all wrong. It is obviously very difficult to saw 2mm off the end of a shelf, so turn it around and saw off 500mm - you'll find that the offcut fits the space between the brackets perfectly.
    Inform - Educate - Entertain

  22. #22
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    I'll keep an eye out for used tools. Wish I had paid closer attention in the car boots I visited on holiday as there were a couple selling old tools.

    Quote Originally Posted by bambam View Post
    A few of my friends set up a group on WhatsApp in case one of us needs a tool that isnít worth buying for literally 1 little job.
    That is a good idea. I will yty to set one up.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Curta View Post
    You are approaching the problem all wrong. It is obviously very difficult to saw 2mm off the end of a shelf, so turn it around and saw off 500mm - you'll find that the offcut fits the space between the brackets perfectly.
    Of course! It sounds so much easier now. Am now off to find some 2mm clamps to secure it.

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