Just some weekend musings…
What is it with watch collectors and military marketing? There seems to be a very dedicated sector for dirty dozen watches, milsubs, CWCs, Marathon, type XXs, luftwaffe fliegers, various German eurofighter / TESTAF types, search and rescue etc etc.
Is it just a reflection on the inherent fantasy we all like to play with our watches (cf. divers, astronaut watches, yacht timers) or does it reveal something a bit deeper such as insecurities and a way of shoring up masculinity?
Its taken me a while to accept that big brawny watches don’t suit me, and aren’t reflective of my personality and lifestyle. I’m slowly coming to realise that’s also true of a watch which flaunts its military credentials.
All personal taste, of course, not criticising anyone, as I’ve spent many hours staring at many of the examples above and bought one or two myself!
What’s your take?
Each to their own of course but I tend to go towards “military type” designs etc, more as a lover for function over form, rather than a Walter Mitty kind of thing.
These watches, original or inspired by, have been designed for a purpose which usually rotates around legibility and reliability.
I love a nice JLC or a Breguet, but for my personal use, I prefer something less “fancy” and more practical basically
Oh man, now I cannot get this image of a yacht full of commandos out of my head...
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And I guess buying something that's supposedly tough and reliable is easier to explain to swmbo
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Some like them some don’t, same for any form of collecting
The draw for me is a watch designed for a purpose, robust, legible no nonsense, most were originally not available for retail so the rarer ones take a bit of effort to get hold of. You have to do your research first, which is most of the enjoyment in ownership for me.
They also suit my life style. I would wreck a small dainty dress watch in no time, leather straps last a matter of weeks on me before they are in a dreadful state (I must have super acidic sweat) and to be honest anything smart in a precious metal would look a bit daft on me.
There are watches / styles of watches I don’t get and based on the members here I am in the minority, but there is nothing wrong with that.
Last edited by Sinnlover; 23rd July 2022 at 12:09.
I'm drawn to military watches for their designs. The legibility criteria makes them generally just great looking, functional objects. The Mk11, 300 big triangle and HS9 style white chronos are 3 of the most balanced, attractive designs out there.
The military issue aspect isn't something I'm bothered about but it does help establish how rare they are and thus reasonable market rates.
In common with some who've replied, I'm attracted to functional design language - especially for watches I'll wear daily, but I think it's more than that - we all like a back-story: whether it's Rolex's numerous (wrong) claims to historic firsts, or the popularity of IWCs and Lacos with nazis bombing the crap out of Britain, an interesting backstory gets us that little bit more involved with our jewellery and helps with the most difficult part of any sale - selling it to ourselves.
Because in a by gone era, it made me feel cool like "Action Man"
But in reality I just needed a watch, that was robust enough to handle heavy physical work.
I tend to go for military style/ Field type, and robustness as it was my job once, so just carried the theme on.
I do have dressier Omegas which I'll wear for an occasion, but day to day it'll be a G Shock or dive watch.
I need a robust watch for work and for my hobbies and I wanted something different to a G Shock. I like classic designs in most things, whether it be clothes, furniture or motorbikes and the simple, rugged, classic design of a military watch appeals to me. I’ve worn a CWC since 2013 and can’t see that changing anytime soon. In that time I’ve tried many other watch styles but not liked any of them enough to keep. They just didn’t suit ‘me’ and my life style.
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Research, thrill of the chase, rarity, they're not making them any more, history, cool factor....to name but a few.
A few of mine...
I think there are a few more options. As I wrote elsewhere:
So, why not simply for the history of the thing? The idea of a connection between now and then is pretty profound.However, knowing that this precise model of a watch on my wrist timed a significant moment in history, or even literature, can literally make me shiver. Working out who was wearing what and when is a complex and rewarding pleasure.
Almost without exception a military watch buys you a competent through to exceptional movement in a case that will look after it well with a dial and hands that offer exceptional readability but with low maintenance costs. Think about it, say you wanted a movement with the fit and finish found in an IWC '48 movement in a modern watch? Who are making simple hand finished chronometer grade movements of that quality today? How much are they charging? Perhaps more to the point, who is putting them in simple no nonsense cases optimised for wearability and readability?
Even if you don't buy that, and I certainly do, then there is the simple fact that military, or other historical, specifications or need have often driven wristwatch development. As such, often you find that these watches tend to be the first to offer a particular range of features -or compromises- that didn't exist before. Many here value the resale and that's always a function of rarity versus popularity. Take the 1953 Fat Arrow.
There are only ever going to be 5900 of them and they were among the first to combine a wide range of desirable features which make them an utterly wearable watch ever since. Currently a decent one is averaging over three grand on ebay and I doubt that is going any direction than up, because there's probably only a few thousand in circulation and a damned sight more than that who'd like one.
So history, quality, and investment.
That's three more. I doubt I have exhausted the reasons.
Snap (and Wow!) with Trident. I should have a go at that!
Last edited by M4tt; 23rd July 2022 at 15:46.
Wow! (in a good way!)Originally Posted by trident-7
I'd echo what has been said already in the 'readability' side of things. Many people here post pictures of lovely watches, most of which I will never own because of budget restraints. Having said that I can really appreciate nearly all of them but I would not have most of them because they are not (to me) easy to read at a glance. I also agree with the size thing. I am now really favouring 'smaller' sized watches as well - although I still seem to bash them on various things on a daily basis!
As others have said, the prime function of a watch for me is fast legibility. Some designs look wonderful in carefully constructed photos, but on the wrist prove to be illegible (or in the case of silver hands with silver indices on a silver dial, downright dangerous whilst driving and catching direct sunlight).
I've always favoured Sinn pieces as that Helmut knew precisely what he was doing. My all time favourite was the 857 UTC (I'll buy another one when I can afford it). Not a military piece really, more a pilot's watch, but definitely a 'tool' watch. Seemingly all the military watches are glitz-free, shine-free, sensibly proportioned and exceptionally easy to read.
That's what draws me to them, but oddly I've never owned one - yet anyway.
Last edited by Filterlab; 23rd July 2022 at 15:53.
Probably ever since about ‘72, when a crack Clark’s commando unit I was in was sent to prison by a military court for a sartorial crime we didn't commit.
We promptly escaped from that maximum security stockade to the underground BMW sub forum. Today, still wanted by Watchuseek mods, we survive as soldiers of misfortune.
If you have a watch problem, if no one else can help, and if you can find us....maybe you can hire The TZ-Team wear one of these…
Post of the week that one. 😀
I think it’s having an association with people who did daringdo’s or people we might respect. Which is why people don’t just collect military or dive watches, but also watches won by flyers, racing drivers, mythical characters (from literature or films), explorers, astronauts, etc, perhaps because many of these folks are our hero’s. Doing the research etc is good fun, however associating a watch to an individual is quite rare (especially Miltary issued) hence perhaps explains why Comex watches are so sort after.
Maybe it’s also because watch company’s know this and often manufacture watches to satisfy this demand. A Tiger Woods Tudor, a Lewis Hamilton IWC, a Schumacher Omega, etc.
It’s a bit of fun and a hobby at the end of the day.
Whoever does not know how to hit the nail on the head should be asked not to hit it at all.
Friedrich Nietzsche
It's a cheaper way of getting into watches without appearing to be cheap. These days it is not as cheap as it used to be but it's still fairly cheap.
At the highest level of granularity people still have a living memory of WW2 which significantly affected the UK (Battle of Britain...etc), unlike other wars we've contributed to. My grandfather was a pilot during it and my father was born in 1945 and still remembers rationing. So in many ways, it's built into their psyche, the propaganda and tangible effects on their lives. This has been passed down to me. So the marketing is designed to hit that nerve.
I think in time this will fade unless, of course, war spills across Europe again.
Popular media also contributes to this a lot as well, hell you only need to look at the Seiko "Arnie".
Watches are a projection of your values, if you chose to project something you don't actually feel or like... I can't imagine you'll keep the watch long as it won't give you a buzz when you look/wear it. This reminds me of when I was at a party and a girl came up to me and sneered "urghh is that a yellow g shock" (my 9400 Rangeman), I replied without thinking "yeah I love it! It's one of my favourite watches" to which she smiled, apologised and continued the conversation. If I didn't genuinely like the watch I think I would have been far more insecure about it.
While it remains possible to buy a decent vintage watch on ebay for less than thirty quid, I doubt this is true.
I think this thread can be closed. :)Probably ever since about ‘72, when a crack Clark’s commando unit I was in was sent to prison by a military court for a sartorial crime we didn't commit.
We promptly escaped from that maximum security stockade to the underground BMW sub forum. Today, still wanted by Watchuseek mods, we survive as soldiers of misfortune.
If you have a watch problem, if no one else can help, and if you can find us....maybe you can hire The TZ-Team wear one of these…
For me I've had an interest in militaria since I read Warlord as a wee bairn. I like the design and the utility. In fast the aesthetics means more to me than the providence. I have a dive watch that I can swim with, mess around in boats with, but also wear to the gym and DIY and garden with. It also has a great back story and has cracking looks. I had a pilot's watch before I started flying, but now I enjoy it even more.
But it doesn't have to be either/or. I also really enjoy dressier watches and have started to wear these more as I'm back in the office with greater regularity.
You are The Moose Brothers and I claim my five pounds.Probably ever since about ‘72, when a crack Clark’s commando unit I was in was sent to prison by a military court for a sartorial crime we didn't commit.
We promptly escaped from that maximum security stockade to the underground BMW sub forum. Today, still wanted by Watchuseek mods, we survive as soldiers of misfortune.
If you have a watch problem, if no one else can help, and if you can find us....maybe you can hire The TZ-Team wear one of these…
For when wimpy Creed won't cut it…
Having been issued with a few chronos in the 80s both mechanical and digital I’ve no idea why folk buy them as all ours were rubbish and kept breaking. That’s why I bought my first Seiko.
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I guess the important question is which one? I thought that Seiko made the only quartz chronographs issued in the eighties and I’m keen to be wrong…
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