Everything I use is from the Meguiars range.
Hello all, once again I hope to lean on the amazing knowledge base and generosity of information sharing that is unique to TZUK...
Please can someone list *all* the kit I should buy if I want to start washing my car ‘properly’ on the drive?
Special buckets? Grit guards (whatever they are)? Lambs wool mitts (literally no idea about these)? Power washers? Sponges? Products?
What is the basic technique for a good quality car wash?
I’ve been washing my own cars for 2 decades but always with a dirty 10 year old sponge and a bucket of hot tap water & cheap ASDA car shampoo. I feel there is likely a better way, and want to start from scratch with both knowledge and equipment.
So, what do I need? Ideally all stuff I can get on Amazon.
Thanks!!
Everything I use is from the Meguiars range.
Wash with water first - a light karscher to remove surface dirt - just not too vigorous. Rinse cloths / mitts regularly (avoids scouring grit across your paint. The lambs wool mitts are nice. Usually have two buckets - one to squeeze the dirty water into and the other for the clean water.
Last but not least you will lean across your car so wear joggy bottoms. Jeans and those rivets will scratch the car to bits ?. Might want to not have a watch with metal bracelet either...
The mitts, I use a fairly cheap microfibre one, are amazing compared to a sponge.
I powerhose mine, wash it with one bucket using the mitt with Autoglym shampoo, but try to rinse it pretty thoroughly every dip, powerhose, then I use Autoglum rapid wet wax stuff, which takes care of waxing and drying in one.
If I were to expand that process the first thing I would do would be to get a detailing brush and brush all the nooks and crannies with shampoo, then a bit more with the hose before the mitt wash. Then I'd think about two buckets and grit guards, but I've never noticed anything untoward on mine. I'm not crazy fussy, though.
I've tried paste wax a few times but I have decals on my car and they look terrible with paste wax. Perhaps its the way I do it, though. The paste wax does last much longer.
I use two buckets (with grit guards so you don't pick up grit from the bottom of the bucket). One to rinse, one to wash. Amazing how filthy the rinse one looks quite quickly.
Detailing world is the place to go if you want to know how to obsessively wash cars.
Depends on how far you really want to go with this as it can spiral rather quickly. Snow foam, 2 bucket method, wash mitts, drying towels, clay bars, prep product, dual action polishing machines, glaze, wax (then there's the wheels, tyres and interior!)............it goes on. Have a look on detailingworld.co.uk some good step by step on how to wash etc and reviews of products. I normally use Chemical Guys and Sonax stuff but there's loads of decent products on the market.
@ach5 I've referred to this guide a few times to keep me going in some kind of logical order. I literally have a mountain of equipment and products if you're after some specific advice after consulting the flow chart
Here you go. A little rabbit hole to disappear down
https://www.detailingworld.co.uk/forum/
For kit stuff like this
Bucket
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Car-Wash-Bu...6503928&sr=8-4
Mitt
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Topteck-Sig...dDbGljaz10cnVl
Car drying towel
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Glart-443TP...+drying&sr=8-3
Meguiars stuff as mentioned for wheel cleaning products. Take a look at snow foam for use as a pre wash with a pressure washer. As for pre wash and wash solutions the world is your oyster
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Built Hamber snow foam and an attachment to whatever you use, then don’t touch it with a sponge
I've just started drying mine with a leaf blower.
That’s why I buy silver cars saves cleaning them to much.
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I now do mine without a bucket,
I do use w bucket for the wheels which i treat separately using a set of wheel woollies straight and angled
Rinse with P.W
Apply Citrus prewash with sprayer bottle on PW
Leave a few mins,check socials tapatalk etc
Rinse off with PW
Apply snowfoam
Contemplate dwell time check socials etc
Wash surfaces in straight lines with merino mit
Rinse with PW
Apply Hydro phobic coating such as Polarseal and dry wit htowels in straight lines changing towel frequently.
This is after the initial prep, wash,decontaminate,clean,clay,wash, rinse seal,machine polish seal etc. i do this bit once a year and maintenance wash weekly,
Then you get your specialist areas engine bay products and equipment
This car is 18 years old
And wheels have separate stuff, brushes sealers waxes etc
These wheels have done 35k since refurb.
Two years ago i just wasnt interested in cleaning cars, then i fell down the rabbit hole. I use a lot of products from here https://www.ezcarcare.co.uk/
I would say do it in stages, buy a bit and build up slowly.
Both cars have had the big wash, decon and clay then a light machine polish before Meguiars wax applied when i got them two years ago., i do the decon/clay rewax yearly. The hydrophobic coating is brilliant it any grime just doesnt seem to stick. If i just prewash and rinse mine are already the cleanest on my street. The Volvo does 400 miles a week too.
This stuff
Last edited by MCFastybloke; 23rd March 2021 at 16:49.
I usually wash mine when it's raining. No need to wash/rinse with water first. Wash with car shampoo and a sponge. Let the rain rinse everything off.
If waxing and polishing when it's not raining, I use Autoglym polish and sealant.
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I try and give the car one good clean a year normally around April I will:
1) Wash the car
2) Use auto tardis to remove tar marks
3) Use Iron X to remove Iron
4) Use a clay mitt to remove any further contaminates
5) Polish the car - by hand really need a machine, to remove any minor swirls
6) Clean the car with an IPA wipe to get everything off the surface
7) Wash again
8) Seal - I have been using Turtle wax hybrid spray sealant and it's really good stuff and very cheap. One coat normally lasts 6 months and makes ongoing cleaning much easier.
Ongoing:
Wash the car with 2 buckets, power wash first, then snow foam, PW again, clean with a mitt (at this stage if you did the above is very quick and easy and sometimes not needed) Then dry car with a soft microfibre.
The once a year treatment will normally takes me half a day but is very worth it.
I wet the cars using a hose. Then use a manual hand pump pressure sprayer to apply bilt-hamber surfex as a foam. Then I use two bucket technique and a hog hair brush (which has hose feed) to apply the shampoo from the clean bucket, rinsing the brush in the dirty bucket each time. Sometimes follow this up with a wool pad but normally just use the brush with the water on to rinse before drying with a large microfibre cloth.
I've got another plastic bristle hose fed brush for the wheels and use bilt-hamber autowheel for them, great stuff. Also use one of those side brushes for the wheel. I find doing the wheels is the worst and most time consuming part, so many nooks and crannies.
Buy pressure washer, the two buckets with grit guard type set, snow foam lance attatchment for pressure washer, snow foam liquid, car wax or sealant, Valetpro Dragon's Breath for your alloy wheels, a tyre trim spray or gel, glass polish / cleaner, lamb wool mits, car shampoo, trim restorer.
That is a basic kit ( for people into this type of thing of course )
Two buckets with grit guards to start
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I should add to explain my post above that my kit uses no pressure washer by design, instead using a normal hose, hose fed brushes, buckets and a hand pumped foam sprayer (https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/685778217) to reduce water use and reduce the total amount of kit needed.
OTOH a pressure washer would certainly be a lot quicker.
Used to charge a lot for the service but happy to share how I do it. Some dealer prep used to be appalling inc supercar stuff.
I don’t use the two bucket method or even one bucket method for that matter, I don’t use any. Instead I buy cheap micro fibre cloths from amazon, and will do the following.
Rinse
Snowfoam
Rinse
Snowfoam inc sarutate a cloth
Wiped down the surface
Rinse
Inspect any areas you have missed
Snowfoam last time
Cover off those areas and rinse
Dry the car with another cloth (pat not wipe)
Then decontaminate (I like iron x) and remove tar spots etc.
Clean the wheels with iron x and bodywork product (mr pink at the moment).
If needs be ill clay, or polish etc.
Finally seal the paint with something like jetseal109.
I will wash and reuse the cloths but normally relegate them from body to glass to wheels and finally rags for exhaust tips and callipers etc.
Hope this helps.
I've just bought a DI water filter for washing the car so that I don't need to dry the car to avoid water spots. My plan is a weekly jet wash with snow foam and then rinse with filtered water with a proper clean every month or so. If anyone is interested in the results I'm happy to report back!
Some great advice on here. Only thing I do that's unusual is drive it round the block to chase out any sitting water before polishing.
I'm just in the process of buying a Used Approved white SLK Merc from Listers. They are offering me lot's of extras, obviously to boost their commission such as tyre insurance, Gap etc.
But one interests me (as they are offering at lower price @£300) is their Protech paint and fabric protection. Is it worth having? or best to get it done privately? or just wash the damn car properly as shown above lol.
I would save the money and invest it with a valeting company. Thats all they do. Their attention to detail will be more than a main dealer. Paint protection means nothing if as stated above the car isn’t perfectly prepared first. It might cost you more than £300 but it will be a pukka job.
Steve
I was parts manager in a main dealer, I bought in the paint/interior protection kits, £60 a go, price to customer applied, £330, and the job was never done to my satisfaction, always rushed, warranty on the life of protection was dependent on using the appropriate shampoo, never stocked or sold any.
Save the money and do it yourself with stuff from your local motor shop. Polishing is therapeutic.
Well, TZUK, you haven’t let me down - what an outstanding series of replies & advice.
I plan to trawl each post carefully with a pen and pad, noting down all the products and techniques and I’m looking forwards to giving it a go!
I see something called snow foam mentioned a lot, and that some people feel this negates the need to then rub the car down with a sponge/mitt. Is it that powerful that it will cut through all the dirt without rubbing with a mitt? Just a power wash rinse?
Lots of good advice there.
I have used many brands of wash, polish, wax, QD etc over the years but the Gyeon detailer is in a league of its own IMO on black. It even makes the questionable paint on my Tesla look amazing.
https://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/gyeon-quick-detailer
Pitch
Being lazy I went the whole hog and had a full correction and then ceramic coating, if dirt does stick to it, one go with snow foam and it’s spotless, and very shiny, unfortunately it’s not cheap.Image1616526029.361537.jpg
Last edited by adrianw; 23rd March 2021 at 20:00.
Agrée. Their wheel cleaner is the best I’ve found as well.
Ultimate Finish (https://www.theultimatefinish.co.uk/...FTTJtAodfg0Awg) is the go to place for me.
Also worth checking out Angelwax - their products are excellent.
And try Gtecnic Wheel Armour. Lasts for years and makes wheel cleaning really simple
In my experience snow foam is great for soaking dried mud and for loosening light dirt however it's rubbish when up against any kind of grime, though this may depend on what kind of surface protection you have. Bottom line is that you should always expect to use a wash mitt (I use a Wookie glove, you could probably guess what that looks like!) after snow foam and TFL (traffic film remover, that's the stuff that will help shift grime), I use a second mitt for the wheels along with a fresh bucket of suds.
Get yourself a few essentials.
Two buckets, ideally both with grit-guards however one will do. The idea with the guards is that you can gently rub the mitt across the guard under the rinse water, the dirt that's lifted out will drop to the bottom of the bucket so most of it is no longer suspended in the water itself, rinsing and cleaning your mitt as you go along prevents those minute particles of grit from being rubbed back into your paintwork creating the 'spiderwebs' within the lacquer you can see under street lights or direct sunlight.
A good shampoo, I use Britemax however there are many great brands available. Just like watches though it can be subjective as to which product is 'best', this goes for all cleaning/detailing products and not just shampoo. Some will leave a glossier finish than others and some may remove any wax that you'd previously applied.
Get some proper wash mitts, as already said I use a Wookie mitt for the bodywork and a another for the wheels. Don't ever use a sponge, they can trap dirt within them.
If you have a chamois or two then chuck them and replace with a few proper drying towels. Don't be tempted to drag them over wet paintwork, instead pad your paintwork down, that way anything that's trapped between the two surfaces won't mar the paintwork.
Build your products from there, and remember that technique always trumps product. Having a set of made-to-fit golf clubs won't turn you into a golf pro!
Last edited by CardShark; 23rd March 2021 at 23:35.
Just do what Rebecca says:
https://www.vwroc.com/forums/topic/1...-to-detailing/
Although no trees were harmed during the creation of this post, a large number of electrons were greatly inconvenienced.
I do it the lazy way but it comes up quite well I think
Decent power wash in arches etc and any real bad bits
Autobrite magi snowfoam(best I've found for decent money)
Lambswool mitt and autobrite shampoo a good onceover
Microfiber mitt for wheels and real dirty bits
Autobrit ceramic coat (karcher applied) is expensive at 100 ish for 5 litre but I like it
Microfiber towel dry
Avoid sun hot car etc
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I just purchased some meguiar's hybrid ceramic liquid wax as it has very good reviews on most forums and the spray version to top up. Meant to be very easy to apply and gives a decent gloss and slickness. Durability is meant to be 3-6 months without any top-ups. Was pretty cheap on amazon, yes not as good as a proper ceramic product but at a fraction of the cost and 100% easier to apply it looks like a good product.
I have a few days off next week so will try and give the car a fully clean and see how the wax works
All you people using towels to dry cars...get a 0ppm filter, best thing I’ve ever purchased in my cleaning cycles.
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It seems that a lot of people here take their car cleaning a lot more seriously than I do
My cars get a wash and wax every so often, with 2 buckets, but my main time saving tip (and living in the pennines helps with this) is to clean the car during or ideally shortly after rain. The rain softens up all the accumulated crap, making washing quicker and easier.
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