Reply With QuoteThis thread is an excellent reference guide. It is for the Bond bracelet rather that the Speedy, but of course the process is the same.
https://forum.tz-uk.com/showthread.p...aster-bracelet
I don’t know whether this should be in mods and wreckers although I’m not planning on modding or wrecking.
I have a speedmaster Schumacher the bracelet is I think called 5 piece link. There are 5 sections to the link 3 brushed and 2 polished bands. Has anyone tackled one of these. I’m presuming it will involve some pretty good masking skills and fine work with a polishing medium and scotchbrite. Here is a library photo of a similar one. Has anyone had any success in refinishing one of these to a good standard
This thread is an excellent reference guide. It is for the Bond bracelet rather that the Speedy, but of course the process is the same.
https://forum.tz-uk.com/showthread.p...aster-bracelet
I’m struggling to see the photos in that thread clearly with the photobucket watermark. Also there isn’t much information on how you isolate the very narrow polished bars when doing the brushing. I’m guessing it’s just accurate masking. The seems to just brush the centre links
It is just accurate masking. But rather than attempting to mask the narrow polished sections in isolation, I would apply the brushed finish to your bracelet in sections.
This bracelet has three sections of brushed finish, 2 x edge sections and 1 x centre section. It’s an error to try to mask the polished sections to the extent that you can brush the rest of the bracelet in one go (in my view).
Instead, mask everything except the first edge section, apply the brushed finish, then mask everything except the 2nd edge section, apply the brushed finish, then mask everything except the centre section and apply the final brushed finish.
This way you are masking large areas (but be precise at the edges) rather than trying to isolate very narrow strips of the polished section.
The above is just a helpful sequence and a way to make the masking straightforward and effective. But the devil is in the detail here, and it is easy to apply this process badly. The detail and experience in Gingerboy’s thread helps to avoid blunders and achieve a high quality finish. It takes time, patience and precision.
Hope it goes well, it can be very satisfying seeing the finished result.
If the bracelet has significant scratches or damage this should be removed before doing the final finish. That’s the bit that takes time, I use wet and dry paper stuck to lolly sticks or wrapped around a tiny wood block or flat rubber block, 600 grit is fine on the brushed sections. However, unless the polished bits are bad I would rely on repolishing, one you start taking damage out with wet and dry you’ve a lot if work getting the polished finish back using 3000, 5000 amd 7000 grit followed by metal polish.
As for masking, don’t try to mask the polished bits alone, you’ll never do it. Use wider masking tape and mask the centre link, overlapping the polished sections. This means you have to do each row of the brushed sections separately. Trying to cut a very thin strip of tape to successfully mask the polished bits won’t end well, it’ll rip away as soon as you start working on the bracelet.
Strongly recommend that you use polyamide tape, available from Cousins.
I suggest you split the bracelet into parts, find something tubular to fasten it to using double- sided adhesive tape (tube from a bog roll will do). Attach a piece of Scotchbrite pad to a small piece of wood with double- sided tape and use this to do the finishing, with care you will be able to get the graining straight.
I use a thin buff stick and metal polish for polishing, these are available from Cousins. Solvol autosol polish is as good as anything, available from Halfords.
Good luck.
Paul you are as reliable as ever on these tricky jobs. I will see how I get on. Did you ever get that old MG finished 👍Originally Posted by walkerwek1958
I've tackled a few of these by hand. I'd do the outside 2 brushed surfaces first. Each only requires one piece of polyamide masking. Then the centre brushed section, requiring both polished sections to be masked. And finally, each of the polished sections, again requiring two masked sections on either side of each.
It's a satisfying task. I used the grey scotchbrite pad for the finer finish. Cape cod for the polished section.
Take a before and after photo to confirm your success as you often feel that the difference has been less than the reality.
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Just get a Professional to do it , you will get a proper job and its far less stress . They will have the correct machinery etc . Expensive watches need the correct knowledge and care not a hobyist with a Dremel grinder and a catalogue of Abrasive papers .
I had a couple of hours over weekend and pleased with the outcome. I’ve done the straight brushed bracelets before on other bracelets so just had to work my way around isolating the different sections.
I found a good trick was to get an aerosol can and some double sided number plate tape and use that to stick the bracelet around the can to get the curve into it rather that just work on the bracelet flat. I also used some 3mm wide heat resistant masking tape and did the polished sections lightly on the buffing wheel.
I just used grey grade scotch pad, nothing else to get a brushed finish I was happy with
Looks good and I bet you're quite chuffed.
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was that the "light" grey or dark grey? they are at opposite ends of the spectrum in terms grit.
Oh yes definitely light grey.
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