Two-tone, Bi-metal making a comeback...

[jacinabox]

...or in Tudor speak, S&G? A comeback to me at least.

If I go to my earliest experience of owning a decent watch it would be the late 80's or early 90's when my wife bought me a Bi-metal Omega Seamaster, a complete surprise and I rather liked it. It was quartz but so what and I wasn't sufficiently 'watch savvy' to really know the difference or care.



It did have issues, being a Seamaster, I wrongly assumed it was waterproof. It wasn't and filled with water while on holiday after a quick swim. Lesson learnt there, but a US Omega dealer swiftly sorted it our FOC.
After a few routine battery changes and the chrono pushers deciding to give up it's pretty much languished in its box until now.
It's a nicely made watch with a chunky thickness of capping for the gold accents

I occasionally looked at it and the Bi-metal look started a desire to own something more modern.
Rolex Sub's were more than I wanted to pay and so I started to look at Tudors.
I thought I'd give Tudors Black Bay Bronze a go, the Slate dial was lovely but the bronze case didn't work for me. The 43mm case was too big and I didn't like the difficulty in finding 23mm straps that might've 'helped' me like it. It went.

Tudors Black Bay Heritage S&G looked good. Smaller diameter at 41mm, had to be a black dial version and on a bracelet.
I was sorely tempted by a BB S&G GMT, the 'root beer' Rightly or wrongly, I was put off by the date wheel issue on the GMT.

A look around the usual sites threw up a good looking example on eBay...lots of pictures, good communication from the seller and with eBay giving a £75 off promotion I made a the seller an offer which he accepted much to my surprise.
After going through eBay's authentication process it arrived last Friday
It looks barely worn, not yet a year old and a complete set; I love it!
Easier by far than the BB Bronze to wear - it doesn't feel top heavy. It's two seconds fast after 3 days - impressed.

According to Tudors spec's the bezel is solid gold, the brushed centre links are capped with 0.25mm gold and the crown too is capped with a decent thickness...0.6mm IIRC.

If they put the graduated slate dial from the bronze model in this it would be perfect.







A comparison with the 30+ year old Omega. How size has grown over the years. Not sure what size case the Omega is with its odd case shape but I'd guess 36mm. Weight is has also grown significantly Omega is 118gms with the heavy weight Tudor (minus 2 links) at 177.5 gms.



So, Bi-metal or whatever works for me!

Finally, I'd really like to get the Omega refurbished ...properly working and the case/bracelet looking like new.
Any recommendations for who to do it please. I imagine Omega is going to cost more than the watch is worth. Sentimentality has no cost though!

Thanks for reading, it helped pass the time on a soggy Monday in Scotland:)

Edited Tudor weight - I had as lighter than the Omega.

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[walkerwek1958]

An old quartz chronograph movement can be a daunting prospect to work on and the problems with parts availability makes it a no-no for many repairers. The pusher seals may have deteriorated over the years, same applies to the crown.

Ideally, this one needs to go to Omegas service centre, if it was a 3 hander it would be a much easier proposition but it isn’t. Given the sentimental value I would think it worth soaking up the cost, getting the watch fully sorted, and enjoying it. It’s an unusual watch that sits nicely in a collection, I don’t see the point in owning several watches that are too similar.

I like bimetal watches, I own several, this one gets the thumbs- up from me .

[abraxas]

A comparison with the 30+ year old Omega. How size has grown over the years. Not sure what size case the Omega is with its odd case shape but I'd guess 36mm. Weight is has also grown significantly Omega is 118gms with the heavy weight Tudor (minus 2 links) at 117.5 gms.

I am sure you know the Omega is Titanium

[Omegamanic]

The S&G Tudor is lovely. I went full 80's and bought the gold dial version, but like both.

Starting to think my Tudor collection is almost complete, just need the Non-date Pelagos and white dial Chrono

[jacinabox]

An old quartz chronograph movement can be a daunting prospect to work on and the problems with parts availability makes it a no-no for many repairers. The pusher seals may have deteriorated over the years, same applies to the crown.

Ideally, this one needs to go to Omegas service centre, if it was a 3 hander it would be a much easier proposition but it isn’t. Given the sentimental value I would think it worth soaking up the cost, getting the watch fully sorted, and enjoying it. It’s an unusual watch that sits nicely in a collection, I don’t see the point in owning several watches that are too similar.

I like bimetal watches, I own several, this one gets the thumbs- up from me .

Thanks Paul, pretty much as I expected...saves me PM'ing you as well :)

I am sure you know the Omega is Titanium

It's not, absolutely not! Genuine SS and 18k gold...google Omega Seamaster Polaris. Fairly certain it was never made in Ti either from a quick internet ferret.

The S&G Tudor is lovely. I went full 80's and bought the gold dial version, but like both.

Starting to think my Tudor collection is almost complete, just need the Non-date Pelagos and white dial Chrono

Good to hear someone else has an appreciation of Tudors S&G! I'd looked at the gold dial version but thought the black dial suited the gold better. Still a nice watch tho'
I've had my name down for close to 6 months for the chrono and last I heard my name will be waiting a while longer <sniff>

Guess Bi-metal or whatever the term is doesn't find favour with TZ-UK?! I'll consider myself a trend setter :)

[RobDad]

Really like both of those - I’d get the chrono fixed too, I always liked the case shape and the way the gold is kind of inlaid into it, really unique. I actually prefer the 2 tone BB to the steel versions, mind you I am in my early 50’s so maybe I’ve caught the 2 tone fever that apparently strikes at middle age!! - recently bought a black dialled BB58 and I’m really enjoying the gilt dial - and the movement which is currently gaining around a second a week!!


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[markrlondon]

I would have thought the Omega is something that STS could look after. Correct me if I'm wrong, though, please. I've never used them so not sure.

[Tetlee]

If I'm honest I prefer the Omega, but then again that's not surprising with my taste. As above get that one away to STS and it would come back looking killer too if you wanted it. The untidy brushing of the case is the only thing holding it back right now imo.

[jacinabox]

I would have thought the Omega is something that STS could look after. Correct me if I'm wrong, though, please. I've never used them so not sure.

If I'm honest I prefer the Omega, but then again that's not surprising with my taste. As above get that one away to STS and it would come back looking killer too if you wanted it. The untidy brushing of the case is the only thing holding it back right now imo.

STS had crossed my mind, I've got a watch they serviced a couple of years ago and couldn't fault them.

They have a menu for pricing - the cost is eye watering for a service on an Omega quartz chrono; £450 + £200 for a bracelet/case refinish. That's close to Rolex servicing cost! As it's a pre 2000 watch I need to contact them to see if they'll do it...parts availability?
I put a new battery in yesterday and it started straight away which was reassuring, but the bottom chrono pusher doesn't do anything, should zero the counters. It travels in as far as the top pusher so I don't see an issue with its movement. I took the movement out and could get the levers on the movement (where the pushers contact) to operate - hands start/reset.
It's beyond me now. I'd had thought the movement is duff...not sure now.

It is a nice watch and I'm warming to it again. It's keeping fine time and I don't 'need' chrono functions, just not sure I want to spend £650+ on it...we'll see.

Does anyone know about ETA quartz chrono movements? Inside is an Omega Cal1675 which is an ETA 251.262, neither of which are produced anymore. Apparenty the ETA 251.264 supercedes it and is described as a replacement. Anyone venture an idea if this will be a drop in movement if I decide to go for a movement change? I appreciate the dial and hands will need changing but it seems a relatively inexpensive (£120) way of potentially fixing it.

[markrlondon]

the cost is eye watering for a service on an Omega quartz chrono; £450 + £200 for a bracelet/case refinish.

Ouch. And it sounds from what you say that it's not really needed.

I put a new battery in yesterday and it started straight away which was reassuring, but the bottom chrono pusher doesn't do anything, should zero the counters. It travels in as far as the top pusher so I don't see an issue with its movement. I took the movement out and could get the levers on the movement (where the pushers contact) to operate - hands start/reset.

You know that the movement works, so it really doesn't need a service or replacement right now. It's just a matter of getting it to work in the case with the pushers.

I've had very similar on an old quartz chrono movement (different one but same principle).

There were two causes in my case:

(1) If the movement uses metal electrical contacts which the external pushers push in, the contacts can get bent inwards meaning that the pusher won't make sufficient contact with them. Bending the metal contact can help with this.

(2) Despite the fact that the pusher seems to go in far enough, dirt (or a deteriorated pusher gasket) can build up around the pusher, limiting how far it is really able to push in. The proper thing to do would be to remove the pusher and clean the parts individually in an ultrasonic cleaner and replace its gasket, but I've never dared to do this. Instead I've cleaned the whole case with pushers still installed in an ultrasonic cleaner and that has worked for me in cases like this (in conjunction with fettling the metal electrical contacts).


Don't know if any of that will do it in your case but, as I say, this approach has worked for me in the past.

[jacinabox]

Ouch. And it sounds from what you say that it's not really needed.

(1) If the movement uses metal electrical contacts which the external pushers push in, the contacts can get bent inwards meaning that the pusher won't make sufficient contact with them. Bending the metal contact can help with this.

Don't know if any of that will do it in your case but, as I say, this approach has worked for me in the past.

Thanks for the advice Mark.

Pushers operate the chrono functions mechanically, very small levers on the side of the movement, should be contacted by the pusher when pressed.
The bottom pusher isn't doing the business. Understand your comments that dirt maybe inhibiting the pushers full extension - it maybe a fraction off but it does appear, to me at least, both pushers do move the same distance. Not even going to attempt to remove them. That'll be left to someone who knows what they're doing.

I did notice something that mabe relevant though, the movement isn't centered exactly on the dial, just a very small amount, but could be enough, with an iffy pusher to cause the problem.
The dial with the chapter ring sits perfectly, with no play, within the case...could be the issue?

Off to a local watch dealer next week who's done work for me before to see what's going on.

Meanwhile, with a quick tickle (needs more work) with some fine Garyflex to knock back the worst of the marks and chrono hands zeroed it's a presentable and wearable little watch :)







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[number2]

Thanks for the advice Mark.

Pushers operate the chrono functions mechanically, very small levers on the side of the movement, should be contacted by the pusher when pressed.
The bottom pusher isn't doing the business. Understand your comments that dirt maybe inhibiting the pushers full extension - it maybe a fraction off but it does appear, to me at least, both pushers do move the same distance. Not even going to attempt to remove them. That'll be left to someone who knows what they're doing.

I did notice something that mabe relevant though, the movement is centered exactly on the dial, just a very small amount, but could be enough, with an iffy pusher to cause the problem.
The dial with the chapter ring sits perfectly, with no play, within the case...could be the issue?

Off to a local watch dealer next week who's done work for me before to see what's going on.

Meanwhile, with a quick tickle (needs more work) with some fine Garyflex to knock back the worst of the marks and chrono hands zeroed it's a presentable and wearable little watch :)







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Really taken by the Polaris, I think I started a thread about it a few years ago, - I'll pop off and have a look

And here we go...https://forum.tz-uk.com/showthread.p...hlight=polaris

[RogDen]

The only TT i have ever owned is this Heritage S&G, which is the only watch i have ever brought new at an AD on my 30th WA.

https://i.postimg.cc/CxGfgTg6/9-BA96...50-C094-D5.jpg


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[jacinabox]

Nice info in your thread number2, good of you to link the thread. :)

Hadn't realised there were so many variations; titanium, ana'digi and differing case sizes.
Nor did I realise Gerald Genta designed the watches.
The gold inlay on the case, 2mm thick, is a mystery how Omega did that. I don't think anyone knows exactly how it was done - so precise and even. Clever and neat.

RogDen - nice watch to celebrate your anniversary. I'm enjoying mine (watch that is!)

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