Hive receiver installation question

[Franky Four Fingers]

Quick question for any sparks out there, I’d appreciate some guidance.

I’m replacing my old wall thermostat with a hive system and so removing the ESI stat and replacing with the Hive receiver unit.

Here’s a pic of the back of my old stat, 3 wires , live, neutral and N/O heat on wire in to 5 (black)


Here’s a pic of the Hive wiring diagram below for which I’m using the left hand side without hot water


So I’m ok with obviously live and neutral but my question is based around the N/O black wire.
Is this just a case of removing it from 5 in my first pic and connecting to 3 on the wiring diagram above?

The reason I’m confused is because the ESI installation says there should be 4 wires in the back of the old unit but there is only 3.

When heating is requested will the system just put a link between live and heating on and removing this link when heating off which will mean there’s no need for the heating off wire?

Thanks in advance
FFF


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[IAmATeaf]

Not an expert but I would have thought that the L from the existing stat would go to Common as the L will be coming from the diverter valve. The N can go to N as normally the neutral would be the commoned so the same.

The N/O, normally open would go to ON.

So you would need to supply permanent live to keep the hive powered.

As I said not an expert.

[Craizeehair]

The hive receiver takes the place of your timer, not the thermostat. The existing thermostat is replaced by the new hive thermostat but the existing thermostat wiring will need sorting.

The wiring will depend on the type of heating system that you have, i.e. Combi boiler, heat only boiler with hot water tank, multi zones for heating etc.

If you decide to get someone in to do it, I would suggest a decent heating engineer rather than an electrician, all the sparks I know don’t like working on heating systems for some reason.

[Franky Four Fingers]

Not an expert but I would have thought that the L from the existing stat would go to Common as the L will be coming from the diverter valve. The N can go to N as normally the neutral would be the commoned so the same.

The N/O, normally open would go to ON.

So you would need to supply permanent live to keep the hive powered.

As I said not an expert.

Yes, you were correct, live should be also looped to common 1, this info isn’t in the instructions.