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Thread: Thoughts on new arrival - Longines Heritage Military 1938 handwound

  1. #1
    Master
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    Thoughts on new arrival - Longines Heritage Military 1938 handwound

    Really tickled with a new arrival, Longines Heritage Military 1938 hand wound, quite lovely execution, based a late 1930s piece whose 43mm size (unusual for the time) has been lovingly and very successfully recreated with only a nod to modern tastes, having a thicker profile and more heft on the wrist.

    Before purchase, I really wasn’t sure of the movement - over the last 25 years I must have had a more than a dozen watches with the Unitas 6497/8 (8 in this case with sub seconds at six, though it has a Longines caliber number), including a couple of early Panerais, Omega Railmaster XXL, the original MM20, a couple of Eberhard Traversetolos (the decorated ‘Vitre’ and otherwise), DJR Bressel, assorted Glycines (Incursore, KMU48) and so on down the food chain. Some of these were enhanced in various ways, other not, and in some cases it gives feeling of being a wee bit ordinary. But I have to say it works very well here and is one of the neatest/tidiest implementations of the lot.

    There is something of an ‘early Portugueser’ kind of vibe about this piece (though even back in the 1940s IWC was already prettifying the concept). The supplied anthracite strap is ok (and fits) but I think the watch really commands black to be true to the period. (The watch also comes with an anachronistic ’NATO’ which organisation of course the original watch predates by a decade and a world war - nah, I don’t think so). Currently debating between a Nomos cordovan (flexible, characterful and supremely comfortable, but maybe too thin to balance out the case’s heft) and a Brady sailcloth which works really nicely and balances better, though I can’t use the Longines signed buckle with it.

    The dial is a work of art, with pitch perfect typography while the use of blank space is really masterly. I really love this.

    About 20 years ago I had a vintage Longines piece about the same size, slightly different dial though. I let it go, as you do, but have never seen another one. I must try and find a pic.

    See below pic of the re-issue, on wrist and with Chronometro Tipo (also 43mm and a heritage reissue, albeit from the 1960s) for comparison. They wear similarly - a good size but not too big, and with lovely proportions.



    Last edited by kk; 24th September 2021 at 16:29.

  2. #2
    Craftsman
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    Thoughts on new arrival - Longines Heritage Military 1938 handwound

    Congratulations on the new Longines.

    This model come up on my radar recently,in fact most of the Longines Hertiage Military have. They have such a great build quality for the price.
    Last edited by Speedie; 24th September 2021 at 16:18.

  3. #3
    Grand Master jwg663's Avatar
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    Very nice.

    I was window-shopping yesterday & a couple of Longines caught my eye.

    The Longines Heritage Classic - Tuxedo and the Longines Spirit - Green

    They're now on the ever-expanding list!
    ______

    ​Jim.

  4. #4
    Master Tetlee's Avatar
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    I think these are a great watch, and not ruined by Longines deciding to add an unnecessary date to it!

    Nice pick-up, congratulations!

  5. #5
    Master
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    That's lovely, really like it.

  6. #6
    Craftsman
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    Great watch, longines are one of few who do the whole vintage reissue thing tastefully IMO. If I had to be critical I’d say the logo loooks a little small proportionally but otherwise gorgeous piece

  7. #7
    Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aimforthebushes View Post
    Great watch, longines are one of few who do the whole vintage reissue thing tastefully IMO. If I had to be critical I’d say the logo loooks a little small proportionally but otherwise gorgeous piece
    Yes it is small but works well enough in real life, very crisp and clear, I think in my photos it's reaching the limit of the 1000 pixel wide image I reduced the photo to.

  8. #8
    Craftsman
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    Stunning watch. Love the simplicity, crispness and clarity. 40mm is my maximum, 6.5 inch wrist, so won't be on my list. Pity.

  9. #9


    I have mine on a tan/brown hirsch - would be great to see some different strap pics, I have to agree with your thoughts on this longines - it is so well executed.

  10. #10
    Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr G Imp View Post


    I have mine on a tan/brown hirsch - would be great to see some different strap pics, I have to agree with your thoughts on this longines - it is so well executed.

    I like that a lot - which Hirsch is it? I have quite a nice tan cordovan that tones in well with the numerals, I need to get a photo of that.

  11. #11
    I’m pretty sure it’s a hirsch ranger, it’s parallel and a good thickness - I think it goes well with this watch.

    https://www.watchobsession.co.uk/pro...nt=17814293445

  12. #12
    Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr G Imp View Post
    I’m pretty sure it’s a hirsch ranger, it’s parallel and a good thickness - I think it goes well with this watch.

    https://www.watchobsession.co.uk/pro...nt=17814293445

    Useful, thanks. I'm running a waterproof Hirsch 'Paul' on my Eterna Kontiki Bronze diver at the minute where it works really well.


    Some more pics - on Rios tan shell cordovan, unbranded green sailcloth, and Nomos black shell cordovan. (Actually the Nomos is my favourite strap of all time).






  13. #13
    Grand Master Neil.C's Avatar
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    That Longines is just lovely.

    Dial is perfect.
    Cheers,
    Neil.

  14. #14
    Master j111dja's Avatar
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    It's a great looking watch Tom and I'm loving the case size. I also love the brand. We have similar taste as you know.

    My only concern is the £2140 retail for a watch with a Unitas 6498/2 movement.

  15. #15
    Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by j111dja View Post
    It's a great looking watch Tom and I'm loving the case size. I also love the brand. We have similar taste as you know.

    My only concern is the £2140 retail for a watch with a Unitas 6498/2 movement.

    Cheers David, yes it's certainly very pricey at retail, considering the movement. Got a decent deal though (from Laings in Glasgow as it happens!).

  16. #16
    Master j111dja's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kk View Post
    Cheers David, yes it's certainly very pricey at retail, considering the movement. Got a decent deal though (from Laings in Glasgow as it happens!).
    Getting a decent discount certainly helps.

  17. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by kk View Post
    Useful, thanks. I'm running a waterproof Hirsch 'Paul' on my Eterna Kontiki Bronze diver at the minute where it works really well.


    Some more pics - on Rios tan shell cordovan, unbranded green sailcloth, and Nomos black shell cordovan. (Actually the Nomos is my favourite strap of all time).





    Looks so different on the black strap - I’m liking it on green


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  18. #18
    Craftsman Ozyjohn's Avatar
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    Without doubt a great looking watch imho. Great pickup.

  19. #19
    Grand Master abraxas's Avatar
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    I bet you are going to love it more now.

    Longines 4092
    https://www.phillips.com/detail/longines/CH080117/224
    "The whole purpose of mechanical watches is to be impertinent." ~ Lionel a Marca, CEO of Breguet

  20. #20
    Journeyman mj234's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tetlee View Post
    I think these are a great watch, and not ruined by Longines deciding to add an unnecessary date to it!

    Nice pick-up, congratulations!
    Lovely watch and completely agree about the lack of date!

  21. #21
    Grand Master abraxas's Avatar
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    The reason it hasn't got a date is because that movement doesn't come with a date. If it did, Longines would have put it in. They are funny that way.
    "The whole purpose of mechanical watches is to be impertinent." ~ Lionel a Marca, CEO of Breguet

  22. #22
    Craftsman AKM's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by abraxas View Post
    The reason it hasn't got a date is because that movement doesn't come with a date. If it did, Longines would have put it in. They are funny that way.
    The exception is the Longines Big Eye which has a movement with a date, but they didn't put a date window on the dial. The date on mine clicks over at 5:20. Though there's no need to modify the crown setting position, as the date is usually adjusted by a pusher at 10 o'clock, so they just omit that too.

    My guess is that it's all about economies of scale with Longines, using the same unmodified calibres in as many watches as possible, without any movement assembly taking place within Longines themselves.

    Sent from my JSN-L21 using Tapatalk

  23. #23
    Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by AKM View Post
    The exception is the Longines Big Eye which has a movement with a date, but they didn't put a date window on the dial. The date on mine clicks over at 5:20. Though there's no need to modify the crown setting position, as the date is usually adjusted by a pusher at 10 o'clock, so they just omit that too.

    My guess is that it's all about economies of scale with Longines, using the same unmodified calibres in as many watches as possible, without any movement assembly taking place within Longines themselves.
    Must say the Bigeye is a great watch too, the black dial version is an absolute classic and while as you say it's based on the ETA 7753 it's a Longines-commissioned column wheel variant, a step up from the original cam-based movement. (Though Omega is now also using a version of the column-wheel design, with the co-axial escapement incorporated).

    I haven't seen the new petrol blue dial/titanium cased version in real life yet, it looks very interesting in pics, albeit something so dramatic is not quite what you'd expect in a supposedly 'heritage' piece.

    Both tentatively on the shopping list, only worry is whether the titanium case will provide enough heft.

  24. #24
    Craftsman AKM's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kk View Post
    Must say the Bigeye is a great watch too, the black dial version is an absolute classic and while as you say it's based on the ETA 7753 it's a Longines-commissioned column wheel variant, a step up from the original cam-based movement. (Though Omega is now also using a version of the column-wheel design, with the co-axial escapement incorporated).

    I haven't seen the new petrol blue dial/titanium cased version in real life yet, it looks very interesting in pics, albeit something so dramatic is not quite what you'd expect in a supposedly 'heritage' piece.

    Both tentatively on the shopping list, only worry is whether the titanium case will provide enough heft.
    Longines are definitely at the front of the queue when it comes to ETA movements. Mine's been very accurate and the upgrades to the base calibre put some more expensives watches to shame. The brand is criticised for its outsourcing of components, yet the dial and hands are flawless, case is well finished and the watches are reasonably priced.

    I'll probably buy the blue one as well, though I've yet to see one in the metal.

    Sent from my JSN-L21 using Tapatalk

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