Mesmerising waves

[AlphaOmega]

Don't watch from the start.

Watch from 10:15 onwards.

Amazing footage.

[ralphy]

Google "Laird Hamilton Teahupo'o" - just incredible.

R

[Skier]

The waves are stunning on their own never mind the surfing that adds a completely different dimension and perspective. Stunning!

[estoban7]

Fantastic. Would be better with some Hawei 5 0 music though

[Stanford]

That wasn't Newquay was it

[ralphy]

Fantastic. Would be better with some Hawei 5 0 music though

Teahupo'o is in Tahiti, not Hawaii. ;-)

R

[AlphaOmega]

Google "Laird Hamilton Teahupo'o" - just incredible.

R

He is a God. You've just sent me down a rabbit hole.

BTW, you may like his JRE interview - lots of tips and secrets about life and staying happy.

[Captain Morgan]

That is both truly wonderful and truly terrifying at the same time, a reminder why my water sliding exploits are of the snow base kind.

[Kaffe]

Remarkable. They make it look easy. Being in that tunnel would scare the hell out of me. Thanks for posting.

[Halitosis]

Phenomenal. Took me down a rabbit hole watching the huge waves in Nazare in Portugal - more frightening than pretty

[AlphaOmega]

The human story in this video shows depth of character.

Especially the Father looking after his son.

[Wolfie]

I don’t get it…. Having been smashed to the ocean floor by a wave that was a fraction of the size of the smallest wave on this clips, how do these people get up afterwards?

I really really don’t get it?

[studly]

Google "Laird Hamilton Teahupo'o" - just incredible.

R

[AlphaOmega]

I don’t get it…. Having been smashed to the ocean floor by a wave that was a fraction of the size of the smallest wave on this clips, how do these people get up afterwards?

I really really don’t get it?

Wolfie, I will try to explain from my perspective.

The short answer is training. You can build strength and stamina and the ability to withstand brutal hold-downs. Surfers train their breathing ability. I believe they also wear devices that can propel them to the surface if needed. The trouble is, it might be just in time to take a wave to the face. I'm not sure how they deal with this either.

But that's just the physical side. There is a lot more to this.

Forgive me as I'm neither a pro surfer nor an amateur psychologist.

But I did hear on a podcast recently that many successful people face their demons. They actively seek out suffering as it makes the rest of life easier.

With big wave surfing, there are added factors such as adrenaline, the benefits of being outside, the mix of cold water and the sun's heat can help recovery etc. It can also be a job if you're good enough.

I dislike deep water and large waves but I find myself drawn to beaches where they exist. If I could dedicate enough time and money to visting a decent break, I would love to surf one set. Although I may have left it 30 years too late.

I think we share a love of cricket. It's a bit like facing an over from Michael Holding (whose nickname was Whispering Death). Chances are you might receive a ball that breaks a bone or causes extreme pain, but after you've faced him, chances are your next few months at work will seem a doddle. Once you've faced him once, you might think about a cheeky single. Then eventually you might smash him for four or six.

I'm just guessing.

[ralphy]

There was a historic XXL wave at Teahupo'o just a couple of weeks ago.

https://youtu.be/TSq5pBKFzJQ

R

[AlphaOmega]

^Fantastic stuff, R.

You can hear the excitement / fear in their voices.

[Vanguard]

The sea, once it casts its spell,
holds one in its net of wonder forever.

-Jacques Cousteau

[Wolfie]

Wolfie, I will try to explain from my perspective.

The short answer is training. You can build strength and stamina and the ability to withstand brutal hold-downs. Surfers train their breathing ability. I believe they also wear devices that can propel them to the surface if needed. The trouble is, it might be just in time to take a wave to the face. I'm not sure how they deal with this either.

But that's just the physical side. There is a lot more to this.

Forgive me as I'm neither a pro surfer nor an amateur psychologist.

But I did hear on a podcast recently that many successful people face their demons. They actively seek out suffering as it makes the rest of life easier.

With big wave surfing, there are added factors such as adrenaline, the benefits of being outside, the mix of cold water and the sun's heat can help recovery etc. It can also be a job if you're good enough.

I dislike deep water and large waves but I find myself drawn to beaches where they exist. If I could dedicate enough time and money to visting a decent break, I would love to surf one set. Although I may have left it 30 years too late.

I think we share a love of cricket. It's a bit like facing an over from Michael Holding (whose nickname was Whispering Death). Chances are you might receive a ball that breaks a bone or causes extreme pain, but after you've faced him, chances are your next few months at work will seem a doddle. Once you've faced him once, you might think about a cheeky single. Then eventually you might smash him for four or six.

I'm just guessing.

Nah I’d be up for smashing ‘whispering death’ out of the park first ball! He’d remove my middle stump though as I’m the most enthusiastically cr@p batsman I’ve ever met!

I’d tie him up knots with slow cutters though!

Although I loved your psychological analysis, my observation was probably more practical…. Having been smashed to the ocean floor by a wave (it hurt!), how on earth do these people survive if they catch it wrong ? As you say it’s probably training and skill, but, I’m amazed that people can do it without getting wiped out more regularly…

I had a go at surfing in Bordeaux last year (not the scene of my ocean floor smashing). I managed to catch a couple of waves standing and it was awesome…. Bloomin’ tiring though…. I looked great in a wet suit by the way

[AlphaOmega]

Nah I’d be up for smashing ‘whispering death’ out of the park first ball!

Love it.