Rolex/Tudor make top quality, no nonsense, easy to size bracelets and you are absolutely right- the modern bracelets just feel good. Omega bracelets are good but with tiny screws are a PITA to size.
I was playing with a friends SD a couple of weeks ago and the first thing I noticed when he passed it to me was the feel of the bracelet, just felt really nice, quality.
Today I received a BB58 the bracelet needing resizing and again the bracelet just felt good.
Love the look of the BB58 and it seems to fit perfect on the wrist after swapping links around a couple of times.
I now have five links on the six side and seven on the twelve side with the seventh link buried inside the clasp.
Rolex/Tudor make top quality, no nonsense, easy to size bracelets and you are absolutely right- the modern bracelets just feel good. Omega bracelets are good but with tiny screws are a PITA to size.
I had to size a new Sinn U1 bracelet last week
It’s great quality (very basic clasp though when compared to others on the market) but using the 2 Allen keys needed whilst holding the damn thing was a royal PITA. Not to mention trying to put the blob of locktite on the end of the bolt before doing it up. Most makers have upped their game in recent years which is great to see.
The difference in old and new Rolex bracelets is astonishing.
There are some awful bracelets out there tag, GS, older Bremont to name but a few.
I have always had a hankering for a Vacheron, big fan of the Maltese theme on the bracelets
When I owned this it was a joy to size
TBH I think that part of the charm of older Rolex watches is the rattling bracelet, with a bit of effort it's easy to get a good fit though I accept that the newer bracelets are more solid, though they're also guilty of "putting on weight" just like the watches themselves.
"Once is happenstance. Twice is coincidence. The third time it's enemy action."
'Populism, the last refuge of a Tory scoundrel'.
The Pelagos bracelet is the best I’ve worn with the spring loaded micro adjustment. Agree on the comments about old Rolex, a certain charm to the lack of integrity they offer at times.
"Once is happenstance. Twice is coincidence. The third time it's enemy action."
'Populism, the last refuge of a Tory scoundrel'.
I’m a big fan of a top quality bracelet and the Vacheron Overseas is the best one I have owned as the fit and finish is superb, details are really nice, clasp is solid, the only downside is that there isn’t any micro adjustment.
Blancpain X71 is a close second as that is also very well fitted together however it is an absolute pain to adjust and in fact, the boutique messed mine up when they did it the first time!
Not a fan of the older Rolex bracelets though the newer ones I have had or handled are a lot better.
"Once is happenstance. Twice is coincidence. The third time it's enemy action."
'Populism, the last refuge of a Tory scoundrel'.
I dislike heavy bracelets, its a mistake to confuse weight with quality.
I don’t care whether a bracelet has screws or press- fit pins for the removable links, I’m more concerned with the strength and quality of the pins and how they’ll last in long- term use. Fine adjustment, or lack of, is an annoying problem, the older style clasps with holes down the side take some beating.
Best way to minimise wear in a bracelet is to keep it clean, dirt gets trapped in the links and eventually wears the pins. Older Omega SMPs suffer badly in this respect, the pins wear and the little tubes corrode away.
I've always found IWC bracelets to be the most comfortable, almost irrespective of model. In certain instances they are also some of the most innovative when it comes to sizing.
The two nicest bracelets I own.
1) Breitling SOH B20 on their mesh - this is built like a tank, easy to adjust - no cutting, just clever screw in sections and it's never pulled a hair out of my arm.
and
and
2) Eterna Tangaroa - well built and solid but my god it's comfortable - you hardly feel it on the wrist, I guess it's 'president style' but 'flatter'.
and
and
I also like the adjustability of the clasp on my 40mm Smiths Everest. Although I realize some people think it's an awful carbuncle I rather like it. Sadly no pics at this time.
Best bracelet I’v had was on the Iwc Ingenieur 3227.
I love the bracelet on my JLC- each link has its own spring bar!
I do think some of the more modern bracelets are over engineered, heavy and with lots of moving parts to wear.
Some of the vintage bracelets with split pins which are easily and cheaply replaced take a lot of beating IMO.
Cheers,
Neil.
The bracelet on my mil spec is quality and supremely well engineered.
But, I hate it with the passion of the burning sun. Its pointless and sh*t.
It had to go to BP and was there for 8 weeks to have the bracelet put back on the watch with 2 links added. Impossible to DIY.
What is the point of having a well engineered bracelet if you have to wave bye to the watch whenever it needs adjusting?
I got it back from Blancpain and it needs a half link out, but I can't be bothered with the absolute hassle again.
Give me rattly Rolex and a screwdriver any day.
One would think they are the 0.9mm allen like the 45mm’s case/strap bads, but they are more of a slightly off spec t2 (which sort of did the job better, but you need a pair of tools)
Having sized one its a pain, very easy to round the heads if you’re not careful, and after all that effort I stuck it back on a sail cloth.
Single screws like Rolex make life easier, or friction pins like Patek.
Fancier bracelets are not necessarily better bracelets.
Rolex has achieved the perfect balance, IMO.
So many companies that clone Rolex case and dials are unable to execute the bracelet to a similar level with the exception of Ginault. Panerai screws for strap are the best and bracelet wise modern Rolex bracelet is unbeatable. IMO.
Monta make a terrific bracelet.
Similar to a modern Rolex Oyster bracelet, but better finished and more comfortable.
Beautifully chamfered & polished outer edges on all links, on both the upper & lower sides - unlike my Grand Seiko SBGX, which has chamfers on the upper only. There’s nary a sharp edge to be found, very tactile. And pretty.
Short end links that start off with a smaller-sized central link, so that the bracelet immediately ‘breaks’ from the case and drapes down & around the wrist, rather than protruding out beyond the wrist edge.
Links that fully articulate i.e. so they can be stacked fully on top of, or under, each other, concertina-like - such flexibility & freedom means it conforms perfectly to any wrist shape.
Easily adjustable screws.
Poor picture that doesn’t really demonstrate what I’m talking about, but the best I have to hand:
This is my favourite - supremely comfortable
“ Ford... you're turning into a penguin. Stop it.” HHGTTG
You could always tell a Rolex of old by it’s rattle
None were quite as noisy as an old sub or sd
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