Reply With QuoteIs that correct?Originally Posted by noTAGlove
Im not in disagreement that an engine could run cooler but i don't see how, assuming there are no issues, that it would be that cold that there would essentially will be no warm air at all.
Is that correct?
In fairness many a motorists car choice doesn't appear to be driven by logic but emotion...witness the number of off road capable behemoth's in Waitrose car park or on the school run in built up urban parts and the Carmakers love it, can't do enough...frinstance this Ad for My dream Defender, which was served to me earlier, tongue in cheek it's the 163k plus Carpathian edition for me or nuffink...
https://buildyour.landrover.es/lr2/r...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
I mentioned Octopus Agile in conversation with my wife, in what is still proving a difficult transition for her to an EV pretty much based around her wanting a manual handbrake! Anyway her first response when I mentioned cheap overnight electricity was ‘if you think I’m spending the night listening to the whirr of white goods, to be woken up with a dishwasher, washing machine and dryer to empty - oh, and didn’t you say Dryers catch fire sometimes? - you can forget it!!! I have to admit I see her point. And that’s for a family in a large house with all the white goods in a utility room, the modern small open plan house would be even worse, like sleeping inside a giant blender!
I have EON Next, my 7hr overnight period is 0100-0800, the only thing I use overnight is car charging and the dishwasher.
Any use of the washing machine or dryer during that period is first thing in the morning before work, I don’t want dryers and washing machines on overnight when the family is asleep.
But would it really wake her...we've a night time tariff so run the dish washer, washing machine, never hear a thing, unless up for a pee in the night...
It would definitely wake her up - I can sleep through anything (in fact I slept through the storm of ‘87!) but if an owl hoots she’s awake!
Ah fair enough.
How come yours is 1am-8am? All the literature says 12am-7am, which is the same as mine, and doesn’t differ with daylight saving time.
Your hours would better suit as it would allow me to get cheap leccy to get the garden office lovely and toasty.
Agile isn't generally the one known for cheaper overnight tariffs. It simply follows the 1/2 hourly price fluctuations and can be cheaper or even in to the negative any when during the day. Other tariffs guarantee the cheaper tariff between 12-6am for EVS, home batteries etc
Ear muffs?
Maybe I’ll suggest she sleeps in the charging car whilst I run the washing machine, dryer and dishwasher?!
Not sure, but I suspect it’s because I have an old Economy 7 meter, which is still turned on and off by the radio switch signal.
Once the meter gets replaced at some point with a smart meter, it’ll probably go to 0000-0700.
Ah, so it appears you are on a traditional Economy 7 tariff as you only need a dual meter not smart meter for that?
You may want to get a smart meter installed and go for a specific Drive EV tariff as the Economy 7 charges much higher daytime prices, and the overnight prices are not as low.
Or, at least that is what I found when I was previously on Economy 7.
I am not a mechanic, but with you entirely & struggled with the concept of the original post suggesting an idling car was blowing cold; must have been something wrong with some part of the system there.
Regarding EVs; not an issue this year, as the weather wasn't as bad when we were away, but last year we returned from holidays to have had the -8C frost on top of snow that had semi-melted and refrozen solid, ice on the inside of the windscreen etc - would have loved some remote warming facility in the car to the to melt it off whilst away; that an EV would have offered me. Took a ridiculous amount of time with a hair dryer to melt enough of the side window ice to get into the car to start it, as the window needs to drop to clear the roof - makes sense from a windproof / noise perspective, but Z4 (2 generations), M4 and both the 981's all share this joyful design!
I think all cars with frameless windows share the same design, my CLS certainly does.
When we had last weekends snow fall followed by partial thaw and then -6c overnight, it was obvious which of our cars had been properly winter tested.
The ID.4 door just opened as normal, the Tesla front doors were stuck frozen solid. My wife had to climb in through a back one, which was admittedly quite amusing to watch.
Just checked and it’s Eon Next Flex, night rate is 12.5p per kWh and day rate 32.2p, not as cheap overall as one of the Next Drive tariffs, but we don’t use much peak electricity, but no doubt we could do better with a smart meter.
I’ll get around to it one day!
I got a Taycan CT4 3 weeks ago and moved to intelligent octopus which is set at 11:30-05:30 at 7.5p per kWh. Odd snag but it basically calculates times when you plug the car in and I’ve had some days where it’s given my 8hrs at 7.5p.
Had the same challenge with the Mrs re not wanting things on at night but she seems to have come round
No experience of public charging yet but had my first longish trip yesterday (170 miles) and worked out it cost me about £5.40 compared to the £30 it would have cost in my previous Velar.
Impressed up to now altho going from years of 4x4 with the Velar being very big, it’s taking time to get used to how low it is. It’s also absolutely huge width and length. Scraped an alloy after 8 days too.
Not miss the sound of the Z4M ever, vs the recent cars?
Oh god yeah. Will never have anything again that sounded that good. I am loving the cheesy electric sport sound tho but never be as nice as the roar of a proper motor.
Quick question - is everything (ie not just the car) at 7.5p during those extra periods? I’ve just switched and I’m assuming it’s an added bonus but can’t see anything that explicitly confirms it.
(lucky enough to still have the 911 for the noise)
Came across a wrinkle this morning when I was checking g the tyre pressures on the new Cupra Born. Plugged my tyre inflator to the 12V socket in the boot - but the ignition will only stay on whilst I’m sat in the drivers seat?!? So even though I spent 10 mins googling I ended up parking my wife’s Fiesta next to the car and using its socket - with the engine running. Must be a solution but not one I could find this morning!
They say that everything during their offpeak period charged at 7.5p.
"However i plugged in at 17:30 the other day and it started charging almost immediately and what i've not been able to work out if that if this early charging then kicks in this tarrif for the whole house.Smart charge your car with unlimited super-cheap green electrons plus six hours for your whole home between 11:30pm and 5:30am."
It has tyre pressure monitoring as standard?
When you look long into an abyss, the abyss looks long into you.........
Why engine running? Never known inflator to drain battery.
That's exactly the question I'm asking.
I had a similar issue trying to defrost the car when I first got it (before I could connect the car to the app to do it remotely).
Sorry!
They do know the draw the car has as they have a KWh in the last 12 hours metric....so they could be doing something really fancy. Not sure. I really need to get my geek on, download the smart meter data and then compare it to the bill
EDIT : meant to be busy at work but a quick bit of excel magic shows a significant delta between the offpeak usage and the kwH charged to my bill. Now just need to see how much of that is the car....but it looks like it's not going to be all of it. Watch this space.
Last edited by Lazydonkey; 11th December 2023 at 12:57.
You just need to turn the ignition on using the button on the side of the steering column?
Whilst the car does power up as soon as you sit on the seat and depress the brake pedal, you can always turn the ‘ignition’ on manually via the start/stop button for just those scenarios.
Like all new cars, it has to have TPMS, but I believe the implementation of it is via the ABS wheel speed sensors, not an individual in tyre sensor.
You need to check the pressures, and then reset those as the baseline and the car then alerts if a tyre starts deflating and the rolling radius varies.
It’s happened with every Skoda Superb I’ve had (3 of them)
Winter temperatures, down around 0° or minus.
Nothing wrong with the cars. We are talking about three different cars all bought brand new and all less than 3 years old.
Sometimes when it was quiet I could be parked up for an hour or more waiting for a booking and I would watch the temperature gauge drop from 90°C back down to almost zero because the car is only idling at 800rpm.
The air coming out of the vents would be cold.
As tooks said, press the button on the side of the steering column. Also, plug the seat belt in. I know it sounds daft but it’s connected somehow
I am no mechanic but it seems to me that whatever the stat does (keep the engine temperature within a working bracket) it does it in relation to the engine only. Assuming it is working well enough it can restrict the coolant flow as much as necessary to allow the engine to remain operational even at idle and in cold weather.
However the cabin heating system is a different matter. I don't know where it gets its heat from but it's likely to come from the heated coolant as well, and if flow is restricted it makes complete sense that the heat transfer to the air that is pulsed inside the cabin will be significantly hampered.
'Against stupidity, the gods themselves struggle in vain' - Schiller.
Won't a car with climate control rather than a basic system keep the cabin air to the temperature you select?
DSG box?
When you look long into an abyss, the abyss looks long into you.........
My guess is for that to be the case the idle would need to be increased automatically to produce more heat.
'Against stupidity, the gods themselves struggle in vain' - Schiller.
That's what I was thinking, the engine management system should automatically change engine settings such as idle to maintain the selected temperature.
Never ever known that to happen in any car ive driven or owned.
Not sure about the VW however most cars have a matrix which is essentially a small radiator inside the car. The Matrix receives coolant flow through it via the main cooling system and circulated by the water pump. Hot water goes through the matrix, fan blows cold air through one side, comes out warm the other side then in to your selected vent of choice, feet screen etc. You can get cooling effects caused by the heater being on as it would do if it were in hot weather and the electric fan cut in on the radiator but it is nowhere near the same amount. Minus something is nothing for a car and it would have been tested well below those temperatures. Don’t see how it can happen but hey.
Thanks for that. Makes sense now I’ve found the button! - I wanted to check them as the last new car I had the tyres were over-inflated, I noticed it was tramlining a bit and that was the culprit!
Yes it does but that’s supposing they were set correctly in the first place. The last new car I had the tyres were all set at 4 bar (for transport from the factory apparently) and they’d missed reducing the pressure to 2.5 at the front and 1.9 at the back before delivery. The monitoring system only notices if you lose pressure from the amount you set it at. I did complain once I’d found it but not before a bit of tramlining and general skittishness for the first 20 miles of driving!
DSG boxed Skoda's have an additional thermostat on the gearbox and it's known to fail/cause low temperature running issues.
https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topi...-cold-running/
When you look long into an abyss, the abyss looks long into you.........
Only one had a DSG box
How often have you needed to park up ticking over for an hour at a time in winter though?
Most people wouldn’t experience it as most people wouldn’t be doing it. Pretty unique to the taxi trade I would guess.
I look at it from a technical standpoint
Think about when you start your car in the morning, most of us go out and de-ice. We all know that warm air comes through well before the the engine gets up to operating temperatures.
Quite a few years ago I got held up on the 419 North of Cirencester for several hours in horrific conditions. Well under minus and not a problem. If you were in Alaska then I’d perhaps understand but temperatures around zero are nothing
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Emergency Service vehicles do it al the time without any issues?
When you look long into an abyss, the abyss looks long into you.........
Unless you’re in a BMW 3.0l diesel!
Quick on the draw Dave!! - the EGR issue has been fixed.
When you look long into an abyss, the abyss looks long into you.........
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