Superb pictures and write up as usual Tony. Great to meet up with you in the post-mid-Covid London - all very surreal. Still the gins helped! Of course the Zenith for me is the star there though the VC is rather special too!
I thought, at the risk of boring the pants off everyone, that I’d post a single thread about a few incomings I’ve had of late (when I say of late, they actually span some four months). Some planned and others not, there’s a real mix of styles and all of them are quite interesting in one way or another. Hopefully you’ll enjoy the read and the photos, anyway.
Zenith Chronomaster Sport
The root of this acquisition goes back many years, when I was promised a ceramic Daytona by the manager of a branch of WoS the location of which shall remain nameless. The Daytona in its new guise had immediately become the one watch I really wanted, and having previously bought not only a new Datejust from the shop's stock for Bea but also the manager’s own/personal AP Royal Oak I reckoned I had to be in with a chance.
In fact, I knew him pretty well by the time the Daytona conversation took place and had even been on an overseas trip with him. When he promised me a watch within 6 months I knew he meant it, but what neither of us had accounted for was his subsequent heart attack and early retirement. The new manager proceeded to completely take the p*ss with false promises and outright lies, until - after stringing me along for more than a year - he finally admitted I wasn’t on “his” list and told me he couldn't care less what his predecessor had promised. Nice, right?
Anyway, long story short and – since then – I’d been looking fruitlessly for an affordable example to no avail (yes, for years, having made the decision that I wasn’t going to pay the crazy prices being asked by the greys). Ultimately, I decided to give up and look for something else, not realising that the perfect alternative had been released by Zenith in the form of the Chronomaster Sport. Some threads from our very own Martyn led me to look into it further, and the more I looked the more I liked. In fact, I very quickly decided that it was more than just a substitute – it’s a superb watch in its own right.
It’s slightly larger than the Daytona at 41mm but doesn’t have the appearance of bulk, helped by the relatively short lugs and the fact that it's not “all dial”. The classic tri-colour subdials with their concentric circles look absolutely wonderful. In fact, the overlapping sub-dials and colour scheme go all the way back to the 1969 El Primero A386 and according to Zenith the general configuration of the case was inspired by the De Luca. The ceramic bezel – which changes from black to a matt grey depending on the light – just finishes the whole package perfectly.
Inside, though, it’s really interesting, housing as it does Zenith’s most recent iteration of the El Primero movement – the cal. 3600. In fact, a hint of what’s inside can be seen on the aforementioned bezel. Marked off in increments of 1/10th of a second it reflects the ten seconds that it takes the main chronograph hand to traverse the dial once.
There are a host of technical innovations in this new movement and – rather than bore everyone with them here – I’ll link to the Hodinkee article that explains them better than I could. However, I will say that the engine in this watch is a clear leap forward from the aging cal. 400 movement that’s been around for decades.
Fast forward, then, and a few nights ago Martyn and I met in central London, consumed copious amounts of gin, and concluded a deal that saw me part with a large sum of cash in return for which I left with his watch. I’ve been wearing it since then and I’m beyond thrilled with it. In fact, I love everything about the Chronomaster Sport, and will no longer be wasting my time fruitlessly pursuing the mythical Daytona. I actually think that this is a better watch, and it’ll be with me for the very long term.
Vacheron Constantin Fiftysix Day-Date
Now, this one really did take me by surprise, as although I’d been fending off an increasing desire for a day-date my thoughts had previously turned to the more traditional solution in the form of the classic Rolex. I really do like them and have done for a long time, but they represent a pretty major investment so I’d really just been biding my time until something irresistible found its way to me.
Now, I’d also been fending off a friend from here who’d been pestering me for months for one of my watches (a watch that he actually sold to me and subsequently wanted back – not a new scenario, either). I’d declined some trades for beautiful watches, but when this one came up for grabs it was a pretty easy yes. Not just because it was a day-date but because (1) I loved the watch, and (2) I could plan (at that pre-Zenith time) for the mythical Daytona’s arrival by selling my Overseas Chrono. In other words, one chrono out and - hopefully - another one in, and I'd also avoid having two VCs in a relatively small collection. (in any event, I kind of felt like I wanted to move it on to invoke some change or other.)
Anyway, the Fiftysix Day-Date is a sublime thing. Here’s what VC themselves say about it on their website:
Hopefully the name of this model series makes more sense now. All good so far, then, and – at 40mm – it’s a perfect size for nearly everyone. The movement, bearing the Geneva Seal, contains 264 parts and 27 jewels, has a power reserve of 40 hours, and has a frequency of 28,800 bph. In fact, aside from looking gorgeous on the outside in a kind of classic yet contemporary way, inside this watch beats a work of art. I can honestly do no better than to quote a rather lovely piece of prose from the Mr Porter website:With horns inspired by the sides of the Maltese cross, an integrated crown, and sapphire glass this steel watch honours a model from 1956. It displays the power reserve, a day-date indicator, and seconds on the dial. Its openworked caseback reveals an elevated oscillating weight in 22K gold, inspired by the Maltese cross.
There you have it, then. “It’s a day-date, Jim, but not as we know it.”The Fiftysix Day-Date is powered by Vacheron Constantin’s calibre 2475 SC/2, an automatic movement with a 40-hour power reserve, beating at 4Hz. Like all Vacheron Constantin movements, it is manufactured to meet the standards of the Poinçon de Genève. Often referred to as the Geneva Seal or Geneva Hallmark, this is an independently regulated mark of quality that’s among the most exacting in the industry. Not only does it demand that the watch measure up when it comes to accuracy, water-resistance, power reserve and all other functional claims, but it places strict requirements on the maker to use the best possible practices in the design and finishing of the movement itself.
If you were to imagine this movement – with its 264 components – as an orchestra playing in harmony, the requirements of the Poinçon de Genève elevate that orchestra to London Symphony or Berlin Philharmonic levels. Hence, you will find details such as radial Côtes de Genève finishing on the side of the movement plates hidden under the dial, never to be seen by anyone other than the watchmaker who services the watch. Every edge is perfectly bevelled, every jewel pristine; every screw-head polished and fitted in a matching countersink. Every surface is given some level of finish; in short, a truly virtuoso performance.
Sinn U50
Okay, this one is going to demand a lot less time to read. Long story short, I’ve owned about half a dozen of the U series watches from Sinn, loving every one whilst eventually realising that they’re just a bit too big for me. Shades of the MM300, in fact, but not nine of them, at least!
When the 41mm U50 was released, then, it immediately appealed and I ended up ordering the fully tegimented version (that is, case, bezel and bracelet all with the hardened finish) form Jura watches. Nine months later I was still waiting for my bloody watch, irritating all the more because mine was the only outstanding order. I ended up losing all patience and cancelled the order, suffering further through the three week wait to receive my refund. As for Jura... well, never again.
Eventually, I managed to bag a minter on here (again, fully tegimented) so all ended up well in the end. In fact I subsequently picked up the rubber strap/clasp combo too, and that’s how I’ve been wearing it after a little experimentation with nylon (oooerrr, vicar). Sinn use Sellita movements these days, of course, but it runs very well and looks just like a U1. Only smaller.
And finally… drum roll, please…
Seiko SKX007
Well, it’s not just a 007, its an M&S 007. Or rather, a 007 modded by a bloke in the US to give it a vintage vibe, after which it then had an NH36 movement dropped in it. It now not only looks lovely but it hacks and handwinds. It runs at +14spd but the spec for the NH36 is -25 to +35spd, so it’s well within those parameters. And, seriously, could there be a better summer beater than this, especially pimped up with a nice pink (sorry, salmon!) NATO? No, of course there couldn’t!
Okay, that’s it. Four months-worth of horological excitement rolled into one little post with a few pretty pictures. Hope you enjoyed it.
Superb pictures and write up as usual Tony. Great to meet up with you in the post-mid-Covid London - all very surreal. Still the gins helped! Of course the Zenith for me is the star there though the VC is rather special too!
“ Ford... you're turning into a penguin. Stop it.” HHGTTG
That Zenith is surely a future classic. I am still aiming to get to the shops to try one!
Congrats on some great incomings.
That Zenith is superb, much prefer it to the Daytona.
I loved that Zenith when Martin had it and the write up, pictures etc. The Sinn leaves me cold, the VC is stunning too.
Wow a nice set and great write up. Thanks for sharing
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I like the 007 the most 😁. Looks really good, I’m not sure about the strap though, it suits it somehow, but I would have it on green or brown.
Cheers..
Jase
Enjoyed reading - the VC and Zenith really shine.
As usual Tony great read and shots. Bizarrely loving the Seiko the most (maybe that's my budget!). 4 incomings, any outgoings?
So does this mean Martyn has decided to get the rose gold zenith?
The Op is very blessed to have several nice new watches, the zenith is my favourite to.
What a fantastic group of incomings Tony. The Zenith has really been growing on me since release, I'm yet to see one in person (there doesn't seem to be a dealer local to me), but it ticks the Daytona boxes (and more).
The VC Fiftysix is the star for me. I tried the blue complete calendar last year and it was stunning, however for me the Day-Date pips it to the post. I've always loved the slightly offset asymmetric styling of JLC Reserve de Marche and the VC just takes it to another level (Plus Poinçon de Genève).
Pure class as always. Enjoy them.
The VC is a thing of beauty.
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Very nice watches, photos and write-up Tony.
The Seiko aside, the VC is the looker of the bunch.
It would easily have been the Zenith, which is stunning apart from that bloody date window. This watch doesn’t need a date. For me, and admittedly it’s my own pet peeve, it completely unbalances what is an otherwise gorgeous dial. But at least it doesn’t cut into the minute track on this one.
If they had left that out then it truly would be a Daytona beater.
Last edited by hhhh; 9th June 2021 at 08:19.
Tony
As we have come to expect a great write up with good photos.
For me the VC is a beauty to behold and have been tempted myself to get one.
nice write up and great photo's as always!
I like the white Zenith and they way they place the date at 4:30, I know this bugs a lot of people though..
Is the lume good on the Sinn? really like that in its smaller size but I had read that the original U1 had poor lume. That and the larger size has always put me off..
Not a bad one there ..... envious.
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It was a pleasure to read that post.
Stunning photos as usual. Really enjoyed that. Thanks for taking the time to do the write-up. The Zenith and the VC are both absolute crackers. The Sinn is a bit marmite...
Would owning a Daytona cost less, in the longer term, than buying the Zenith? I like Zenith, and wish them well, but something here makes me hesitate. In two years. All should be clear. Place your bets….I did a couple of days ago. Now, the usual waiting game, we all know. The joys of buying a watch!
so envious. They are all watches that i would have tomorrow.....so if you ever do a fire sale....
Love the Zenith and the VC. After owning a Daytona C for a while and subsequently selling it the Zenith Chronomaster Sport is next on my list. Enjoy.
Thanks Martyn. I really enjoyed meeting up for a drink and a chat.
Thanks, and agreed.
Cheers Jase!
Me too!
Yes, the Sinn U series is marmite for sure. I love them, though.
Thanks. It's lovely.
haha, I'd have guessed that it would appeal to you :)
Thank you.
Yes, one or two :)
Thank you. It might just be mine as well.
Thanks very much indeed. VC do make some sublime watches.
Can't argue with that :)
I like the date, H. Just goes to show :)
Much appreciated, thank you.
Yes, I like the date too. The lume on the Sinn is certainly nice and bright after a charge, but it doesn't last as long as some, for sure.
Thank you!
Always kind, Simon, thank you.
Thanks, and yes - I can't argue with that.
I have literally zero interest in the financials or in speculation.
Thank you, and noted!!!
Thanks very much, and go for it!
A diverse quartet Tony, and great write-up. Looking forward to the next LTF incoming post already :))
The Zenith is indeed nice and would prefer it over a SS Daytona too.
Thanks for posting.
All good watches. You must be pleased to have them.
My least favourite would be the VC and the favourite the Zenith, more stylish and a better size than the Daytona.
Mitch
Really? Well, if I was offered a Daytona at list I'd buy it and keep both. If I was offered a straight swap I'd take it, sell the Daytona, buy another Zenith and pocket the £7k (or whatever the cash difference would be). So, no - the point you were trying to make is incorrect.
I always wanted a Daytona
Missed out on one when I could have paid £6k
Gone right off them now.
Now I would sooner have the Zenith.
I do have a Offshore Professional Chronometer
Which is rarer than a Daytona and far cheaper. But don’t like that anymore, not worn it for two years.
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I love reading your incoming posts as I know the photos will be epic!
That WoS Manager sounds like a nasty piece of work, I would have done the same thing and looked elsewhere. The Zenith is a very very nice watch in its own right.
I have a thing for VC right now and was considering the Fifty-Six in rose… as you are a VC veteran.. is the finishing on par with your previous overseas?
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Interesting watch and more of a tool (for want of a better) term that the Daytona. Probably the Zenith too.
That's very kind of you, thank you. Yes, he was a horrible piece of work and he strung me along for a year before I realised what he was doing. By then the watches were like hens' teeth, so I kind of lost any other opportunities too.
The two VCs are difficult to compare for obvious reasons, and the Overseas also had a solid case back. Both are faultless in terms of fit and finish, though.
In preparation for retirement and a villa build I'll be drastically downsizing the watch collection so I've been looking for a "one watch" candidate for a while and now you got my interest in the Zenith piqued.
I have a small wrist though (Moonwatch is about my limit) so might need to find one to try on first.
Seems impossible to speak of the Zenith without being in the shadow of the Daytona. But the gap in pricing is so great that they arent really competitors. Sacrilege as it may seem, but I’d prefer the new Speedmaster to the Zenith. It’s so obviously an original, not obligated to any other design.
Great mod on the 007, and a super strap combo as well.
The VC day date representation is great, I much prefer it to the more common style.
The VC and Sinn U1 in the same collection is part of what makes TZ so good.
I do like the Zenith, really comes into its own off the bracelet.
Fantastic pictures as always Tony and great watches too :-)
The Zenith would be a superb choice as an only watch - it's water resistant to 100m too. My wrist is 6.75" and it fits with room to spare...
Yes, the 007 is a great mod, especially for the summer. I also agree with you regarding the VC - at least in terms of offering a viable choice to the more traditional options, even if it's not everyone's preference.
Yes, I like a diverse collection (and I think I have one). Agree about the strap option, for reasons relating to weight as well as aesthetics.
Thanks matey
Same reason for my - except villa buying and house selling needed some buffer space for unforeseen circumstances meant selling the Zenith. I have some others I reallly don’t want to keep but I could recommend it as a ‘one watch’ - the short lugs mean it wears smaller than a speedy pro
“ Ford... you're turning into a penguin. Stop it.” HHGTTG
Handsome group Tone - you've always had good taste.
Cheers,
Neil.
Lovely write up! The zenith is amazing, waiting for it to appear at a window to see it. However that VC is truly special!
Keep coming back for another look at that VC...
If they could work on the WR, that could be the only watch you'd ever need.
Lovely watches, lovely photos as usual Tony.
I would certainly have the Zenith over a Daytona irrespective of the price differential, and that VC is pure class. I am very tempted by a U1, I must say.
The only blot on the landscape for me is the pink NATO on the SKX. Couldn’t live with that I’m afraid .
Simon