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Thread: Vintage Style Diver sub £1000

  1. #1
    Master
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    Vintage Style Diver sub £1000

    I think I need a dive watch, specifically a vintage styled dive watch and by vintage I mean 1960's. I'm interested in something that can be a regular wearer, take a bit of a beating and not worry me too much, so real vintage is out. I'm also not looking for a homage, or at least not an obvious homage so a milsub styled piece is also out.

    Automatic preferred
    On a bracelet but also open to a tropic or a nato, although I'd prefer a single pass.
    40mm or smaller.
    Sapphire or acrylic.
    Budget is sub £1000 either new or second hand.

    This isn't a sneaky want to buy. I've bough two watches in the last two weeks, so this will be something for the summer. The research will keep me busy. The first thing that comes to mind is the Oris 65, specifically the version with the quarter arabics, that is now end of sale.

    So give me some suggestions, or better yet show me yours.

  2. #2
    Baltic & Lorier are both quite nice, great looking, built well, but with cheap movements (microbrands)

  3. #3
    Master
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    Newmark 71 if you can hunt one down.

    Sent from my motorola one macro using Tapatalk

  4. #4
    The Certina DS PS200m nearly fulfils your criteria:

    https://www.certina.com/gb/watch/ds-...c0364071105000

    But the remake is 43mm, not 40mm.

  5. #5
    Journeyman
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    One of the Gnomon/Steinhart special editions. About £500 gets you the explorer dial sub on a choice of oyster or Jubilee. Really nice. Have a look at the Gnomon website.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by gerrudd View Post
    The first thing that comes to mind is the Oris 65, specifically the version with the quarter arabics, that is now end of sale.
    This was the first thing that came to my mind - 40mm; slim case; interesting dial and robust swiss movement.

    There are other variations. But I was surprised to learn they'd been discontinued. Are you sure?

    Chris Ward do some nice divers/skin divers. I'd look there first. Not looked at prices but I would imagine within your price criteria.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by gerrudd View Post
    I think I need a dive watch, specifically a vintage styled dive watch and by vintage I mean 1960's. I'm interested in something that can be a regular wearer, take a bit of a beating and not worry me too much, so real vintage is out. I'm also not looking for a homage, or at least not an obvious homage so a milsub styled piece is also out.

    Automatic preferred
    On a bracelet but also open to a tropic or a nato, although I'd prefer a single pass.
    40mm or smaller.
    Sapphire or acrylic.
    Budget is sub £1000 either new or second hand.

    This isn't a sneaky want to buy. I've bough two watches in the last two weeks, so this will be something for the summer. The research will keep me busy. The first thing that comes to mind is the Oris 65, specifically the version with the quarter arabics, that is now end of sale.

    So give me some suggestions, or better yet show me yours.
    How about:
    Seiko spb143/9
    Doxa sub200 (42mm but supposedly wears smaller)
    Christopher ward super compressor
    I personally like the Oris 65 bronze bezel ( the one with the bezel insert, not the bico) but it’s a bit too warm with the cream lume, your mileage may vary

  8. #8
    Journeyman Seal-Dweller's Avatar
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    Vintage Style Diver sub £1000

    How about one of the Zodiac divers? I had this delivered yesterday and am really impressed with it, love its look and the flash of colour, 40mm too.

    https://www.jurawatches.co.uk/produc...8caed308&_ss=r




    Sent from my iPhone using TZ-UK mobile app
    Last edited by Seal-Dweller; 14th February 2021 at 12:54.

  9. #9
    Journeyman
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    Or the Helson turtle, Crepas has some interesting things too.

  10. #10
    Master 50kopek's Avatar
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    How about a Dan Henry 1970 automatic. 60s supercompressor style case, sapphire crystal, 40mm diameter, 200m water resistant, some nice colour variants. Seems like an excellent summer watch and well below budget.

  11. #11
    Master senraw's Avatar
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    A WMT Sea Wolf:

    Plenty of styles to choose from, and you can even design our own via the WMT website.


    Last edited by senraw; 14th February 2021 at 13:15.

  12. #12
    Master
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    Farer's Aqua Compressor range come in a shade under a grand:
    https://farer.com/collections/aqua-c...sor-automatics

    Last edited by Bondurant; 14th February 2021 at 13:07.

  13. #13
    Master
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    Another vote for the Doxa Sub 200, does wear smaller than the 42mm as has been said.

    Doxa Sub 200 by iaintookey, on Flickr

  14. #14

    take your pic - honestly they are unreal spec monsters and look awesome in the flesh


  15. #15
    Grand Master Sinnlover's Avatar
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    I would look at either Helson or Crepas, both make fantastic quality watches for the money and their designs are vintage inspired.
    Whilst not 60s the CWC diver reissues might be in budget second hand, they are a 80s watch but with the defence design standard firmly from the 60s

  16. #16
    Apprentice
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    Have a look at the rado captain cook

  17. #17
    Master
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    Another vote for Steinhart , you can get milsub style or the older style . I occasionally wear a gnomon 39mm ocean 1 on a nato as a beater.

    Actually have a 42mm I’ll probably sell soon as I’ve never worn it.

  18. #18
    Master
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    Thanks all, some great suggestion and a number of watches I hadn't heard off. I like the look of the Doxa, but I'd need to try it on, not sure I have enough wrist for it. CWC is always a consideration. I've had a Farer (different model) previously and loved the colours and build quality, but for some reason the fit wasn't for me. The Zodiac and the Newmark also look great, the latter reminds me a little of the Oris 65. I need to research the other suggestions too.

  19. #19
    Craftsman Fender's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Seal-Dweller View Post
    How about one of the Zodiac divers? I had this delivered yesterday and am really impressed with it, love its look and the flash of colour, 40mm too.

    https://www.jurawatches.co.uk/produc...8caed308&_ss=r




    Sent from my iPhone using TZ-UK mobile app
    Looks cool. I wouldn’t mind one. Multiple viewings of Fincher’s Zodiac hasn’t helped.

  20. #20
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    As well as those mentioned above, a few microbrands that are worth a look:
    NTH
    Evant
    MKII
    Helson
    Seals
    Nodus
    Raven
    Halios
    Meraud

    There is a tonne of choice for vintage inspired divers at this end of the market but I've seen favourable reviews on all the above, though some more so than others.

  21. #21
    Master
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    It may be less retro than the others mentioned, but the Maen Hudson Mk III at 38mm might be worth a look:

    https://www.maenwatches.com/pages/hu...tic-collection


  22. #22
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    mentioned in your first post, the 40mm version oris 65 diver on the tropic strap is as good as it gets

  23. #23
    Craftsman DONGinsler's Avatar
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    Why would real vintage be out. Movement wouldn't be any different than some current watches. 17 jewels is 17 jewels

    Vintage Caravelle



    Something newer

    Bulova Sea Devil



    DON

  24. #24
    Master
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    The Yema superman sounds like it would be with considering. It’s a watch I’ve been tempted by recently.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tooks View Post
    Another vote for the Doxa Sub 200, does wear smaller than the 42mm as has been said.
    What's the quality like on these? I've read mixed reports about the 200 with a number mentioning the quality is quite a bit below the 300 and other Doxa series.
    It put me off to be honest even though I like them and the fact they are from a well established brand with diving heritage.

  26. #26
    Apprentice
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    Squale

  27. #27
    Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kamakazie! View Post
    What's the quality like on these? I've read mixed reports about the 200 with a number mentioning the quality is quite a bit below the 300 and other Doxa series.
    It put me off to be honest even though I like them and the fact they are from a well established brand with diving heritage.
    I’ve had a lot of sub £1k divers through my hands over the years, and this one is as good as any I think.

    There is zero slack in the bezel action, and everything lines up perfectly. The case is well finished, reminds me of an Omega Moon watch, screwed links and solid end pieces on the bracelet, well finished hands with no rough edges etc. Mine appears to be very well regulated as well, within +1s a day, and a lovely winding action.

    I think the caribbean version on bracelet brings out the best of the design, and it certainly compares very well to my Doxa 300T which was twice the price.

    This is definitely not a Doxa ‘Aquaman’, it looks like a properly finished watch. I’m certainly happy with it anyway, I’ve owned it for over a year now, so it must be doing something right! :-D

  28. #28
    Journeyman
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    Quote Originally Posted by CollectorS View Post
    Squale
    I've just pulled the trigger on one of these - should be arriving before the end of the week. Will report back...

  29. #29
    Master
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    Seiko SPB143
    Not a great bracelet, but works so well on rubber or NATO.

  30. #30
    Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by DONGinsler View Post
    Why would real vintage be out. Movement wouldn't be any different than some current watches. 17 jewels is 17 jewels

    ...
    DON
    I'm less concerned about the movement and more about the seals. The watch is unlikely to go diving but very likely to go swimming. If it was a serviced vintage that has been tested for water resistance I would be interested, but they are harder to find.

  31. #31
    Grand Master Passenger's Avatar
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    Baltic worth a look also.

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kamakazie! View Post
    As well as those mentioned above, a few microbrands that are worth a look:
    NTH
    Evant
    MKII
    Helson
    Seals
    Nodus
    Raven
    Halios
    Meraud

    There is a tonne of choice for vintage inspired divers at this end of the market but I've seen favourable reviews on all the above, though some more so than others.
    Henson is a great watch brand. I have had several and not need disappointed.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by ENES View Post
    Seiko SPB143
    Not a great bracelet, but works so well on rubber or NATO.
    Hard to beat a Seiko for price, quality and longevity

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by CollectorS View Post
    Squale
    Ive personally never owned a Squale and have read a variety of mixed reviews. I do however really like the style of their watches and will no doubt end up owning one at some point.

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fender View Post
    Looks cool. I wouldn’t mind one. Multiple viewings of Fincher’s Zodiac hasn’t helped.
    Zodiacs are seriously cool looking watches. Ive only ever owned the cheaper quartz versions but had absolutely no complaints.

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tooks View Post
    Another vote for the Doxa Sub 200, does wear smaller than the 42mm as has been said.

    Doxa Sub 200 by iaintookey, on Flickr
    That’s a watch I’d like to add to my collection at some point.

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2012 View Post
    This was the first thing that came to my mind - 40mm; slim case; interesting dial and robust swiss movement.

    There are other variations. But I was surprised to learn they'd been discontinued. Are you sure?

    Chris Ward do some nice divers/skin divers. I'd look there first. Not looked at prices but I would imagine within your price criteria.
    Christopher Ward produce some great looking watches. Ive had several although 2 went back under their 5 year warranty with movement issues. Wait for the summer and new year sale and you’ll potentially pick up a bargain.

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tooks View Post
    I’ve had a lot of sub £1k divers through my hands over the years, and this one is as good as any I think.

    There is zero slack in the bezel action, and everything lines up perfectly. The case is well finished, reminds me of an Omega Moon watch, screwed links and solid end pieces on the bracelet, well finished hands with no rough edges etc. Mine appears to be very well regulated as well, within +1s a day, and a lovely winding action.

    I think the caribbean version on bracelet brings out the best of the design, and it certainly compares very well to my Doxa 300T which was twice the price.

    This is definitely not a Doxa ‘Aquaman’, it looks like a properly finished watch. I’m certainly happy with it anyway, I’ve owned it for over a year now, so it must be doing something right! :-D
    Thanks, that's positive. I guess it depends on what people are comparing them to and if they are giving enough leeway for the much lower price than their other models.

  38. #38
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    Thanks for this suggestion, Its a loverly size, colour and great detailing too....very tempting.



    QUOTE=SplitSecond;5674086]It may be less retro than the others mentioned, but the Maen Hudson Mk III at 38mm might be worth a look:

    https://www.maenwatches.com/pages/hu...tic-collection

    [/QUOTE]

  39. #39
    Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by SplitSecond View Post
    It may be less retro than the others mentioned, but the Maen Hudson Mk III at 38mm might be worth a look:
    I hadn't heard of Maen, but I do like the look of the Hudson. Nice, simple clean design. Plus I like the price too. How is the lume and how does it wear?

  40. #40
    Craftsman Cornholio's Avatar
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    Precista RN Diver

    So, it isn't 1960s, but the gaffer's PRS-82 is nice.

    https://www.timefactors.com/collecti...y-diver-prs-82

    Looks better on the wrist than it does in the photographs.


  41. #41
    Master James.uk's Avatar
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    Vintage Style Diver sub £1000

    Sorry to bang the Zeno drum but....

    These are great value. Look fab on a NATO... bubble acrylic crystal and a few different options of bezel and dial.

    https://shop.time-design.co.uk/army-...e-dial-4-p.asp

    And there is a TZ discount code. 10% off too

    Last edited by James.uk; 18th February 2021 at 23:44.

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