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Thread: Just ordered the prototypes - prototypes received

  1. #101
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    Quote Originally Posted by kk View Post
    Too small. At least the lug length gives some heft/presence, that's how Nomos gets away with a dinky little 38mm.

    I'd personally prefer 39mm in this watch.
    38mm.

    "dinky"?

  2. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by solidstate100 View Post
    38mm.

    "dinky"?
    I would say 38mm is pretty dinky these days. Look at what's coming out from the major watch houses, 40mm-41mm is about average, and above 43mm is where 'large' kicks in. I'm running an Eterna Kontiki Bronze (44m) as an everyday watch at the moment, doesn't feel or look particularly big on a 20cm wrist.

    It ain't 1950 any more (or, indeed, 1980). Or maybe we just have lots of little people on the forum!

  3. #103
    Administrator swanbourne's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kk View Post
    I would say 38mm is pretty dinky these days. Look at what's coming out from the major watch houses, 40mm-41mm is about average, and above 43mm is where 'large' kicks in. I'm running an Eterna Kontiki Bronze (44m) as an everyday watch at the moment, doesn't feel or look particularly big on a 20cm wrist.

    It ain't 1950 any more (or, indeed, 1980). Or maybe we just have lots of little people on the forum!
    Rolex just reintroduced the 36m Everest Explorer.

    Eddie
    Whole chunks of my life come under the heading "it seemed like a good idea at the time".

  4. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by kk View Post
    I would say 38mm is pretty dinky these days. Look at what's coming out from the major watch houses, 40mm-41mm is about average, and above 43mm is where 'large' kicks in. I'm running an Eterna Kontiki Bronze (44m) as an everyday watch at the moment, doesn't feel or look particularly big on a 20cm wrist.

    It ain't 1950 any more (or, indeed, 1980). Or maybe we just have lots of little people on the forum!
    Or maybe, just maybe, you have larger than average wrists at 20cm.

  5. #105
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    Quote Originally Posted by swanbourne View Post
    Rolex just reintroduced the 36m Everest Explorer.

    Eddie
    Tried it on once (the original version). Looked a bit silly.

  6. #106
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    Quote Originally Posted by kk View Post
    Too small. At least the lug length gives some heft/presence, that's how Nomos gets away with a dinky little 38mm.

    I'd personally prefer 39mm in this watch.
    A 38mm Nomos is far from dinky. In fact, it wears far larger and it has very little to do with it's lug to lug length.

  7. #107
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    Quote Originally Posted by kk View Post
    It ain't 1950 any more (or, indeed, 1980). Or maybe we just have lots of little people on the forum!
    Or maybe, just maybe, lots of people on the forum are the type of watch enthusiasts who understand that 36mm is a great size for a classically designed dress watch.

  8. #108
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    Quote Originally Posted by DennisK View Post
    Or maybe, just maybe, lots of people on the forum are the type of watch enthusiasts who understand that 36mm is a great size for a classically designed dress watch.
    ... and have tiny little wrists. :)

    But seriously, the 50s (and later 80s) fashion for button-sized watches looked silly on people even then, and people in general are quite a bit bigger on average than they used to be (my grandad, born 1890s, 5ft 2, my dad born in the 1930s 5 ft 7, I'm 5 ft 10 - probably all of us around the UK average for our era).

    I really get it that 36mm suits some people - just like some people buy 'S' or 'M' sized shirts instead of L or XL - but instead of asking for a small size version IN ADDITION to a modern sized version, people are complaining - about 38mm? Too big? Seriously?

    As for Nomos I'm actually a fan and only recently sold my 38mm Tangomat. One of the new 41mm models is surely on the cards in the not too distant.

    There's quite a bit of stuff online about size distributions over a typical 21st century population, the recommendation is generally that the bulk of orders for sale these days should be L and XL. Companies often under-order these most popular sizes, that's why 'sale' stuff is usually of the smaller ones, stock remaining after the larger sizes have sold out. Surely there's a lesson there?

  9. #109
    Administrator swanbourne's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kk View Post
    ... and have tiny little wrists. :)

    But seriously, the 50s (and later 80s) fashion for button-sized watches looked silly on people even then, and people in general are quite a bit bigger on average than they used to be (my grandad, born 1890s, 5ft 2, my dad born in the 1930s 5 ft 7, I'm 5 ft 10 - probably all of us around the UK average for our era).

    I really get it that 36mm suits some people - just like some people buy 'S' or 'M' sized shirts instead of L or XL - but instead of asking for a small size version IN ADDITION to a modern sized version, people are complaining - about 38mm? Too big? Seriously?

    As for Nomos I'm actually a fan and only recently sold my 38mm Tangomat. One of the new 41mm models is surely on the cards in the not too distant.

    There's quite a bit of stuff online about size distributions over a typical 21st century population, the recommendation is generally that the bulk of orders for sale these days should be L and XL. Companies often under-order these most popular sizes, that's why 'sale' stuff is usually of the smaller ones, stock remaining after the larger sizes have sold out. Surely there's a lesson there?
    I sold more than 2000 36mm watches last year and slightly more than 800 watches 38-44mm. Surely there's a lesson there?

    Eddie
    Whole chunks of my life come under the heading "it seemed like a good idea at the time".

  10. #110
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    Quote Originally Posted by kk View Post
    ... and have tiny little wrists. :)
    Nope. Wrong again. Mostly average sized.

  11. #111
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    Quote Originally Posted by swanbourne View Post
    I sold more than 2000 36mm watches last year and slightly more than 800 watches 38-44mm. Surely there's a lesson there?

    Eddie
    I was waiting for those numbers


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  12. #112
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    Quote Originally Posted by swanbourne View Post
    I sold more than 2000 36mm watches last year and slightly more than 800 watches 38-44mm. Surely there's a lesson there?

    Eddie
    If that's the niche you are deciding to occupy Eddie then good luck to you. There may well be demand for small watches that you have idenfitied, that isn't really seen out there in the wider market, or isn't met there. (Or maybe there is genuinely something peculiar about the TZ-UK demographic).

    I'd be astonished though if the wider watch market reflected those figures.

  13. #113
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    Quote Originally Posted by kk View Post
    If that's the niche you are deciding to occupy Eddie then good luck to you. There may well be demand for small watches that you have idenfitied, that isn't really seen out there in the wider market, or isn't met there. (Or maybe there is genuinely something peculiar about the TZ-UK demographic).

    I'd be astonished though if the wider watch market reflected those figures.
    There's a recent trend towards smaller watches, hardly anyone is now making the 47-50mm watches that we saw a few years ago. Most new watches amongst microbrands are 38-40mm.

    Eddie
    Whole chunks of my life come under the heading "it seemed like a good idea at the time".

  14. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by swanbourne View Post
    There's a recent trend towards smaller watches, hardly anyone is now making the 47-50mm watches that we saw a few years ago. Most new watches amongst microbrands are 38-40mm.

    Eddie
    No-one is arguing for 47-50mm - this size has always looked just as as riduculous as 34-35mm and I've personally never owned anything over 45mm, 41-43mm being more typical. A lot depends on the lug to lug (many Seikos, for example, or the Eterna Kontiki Bronze I mentioned earlier which is quite a small looking 44mm, have a shorter lug to lug).

    Likewise, 38mm to 40mm I can understand (though I doubt very much if this will be in evidence a Basel any time soon - most interesting recent releases from the big boys have been +40mm).

    However, 36mm is small by any recent standard. I bought a 36mm Navigator but it just looked and felt a bit stupid on the wrist - I sold it within couple of days.

    I can understand the smaller wristed feeling feeling left out of things this past decade or so - and keen to buy up microbrand stuff that fits them - but I simply can't imagine watches more generally are about to shrink back to 50s proportions.

  15. #115
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    Quote Originally Posted by swanbourne View Post
    I sold more than 2000 36mm watches last year and slightly more than 800 watches 38-44mm. Surely there's a lesson there?

    Eddie
    Those figures don’t lie but can be misleading. You released a lot of 36mm variants last year and there was something of a frenzy to jump on the bandwagon (nor that it wasn’t well deserved), but how many 38-44mm models did you release? I can only think of the two baby models.

  16. #116
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    Quote Originally Posted by kk View Post
    ... and have tiny little wrists. :)

    I really get it that 36mm suits some people - just like some people buy 'S' or 'M' sized shirts instead of L or XL - but instead of asking for a small size version IN ADDITION to a modern sized version, people are complaining - about 38mm? Too big? Seriously?
    You seem to have a bit of a bee in your bonnet about all of this. A lot of people are simply stating a preference about this watch being made in 36mm instead of 38mm. The fact that you have to keep resorting to words such as, 'dinky', and that people who'd prefer 36mm must automatically have, 'tiny little wrists', suggests that you're trying to denigrate those same people as somehow inferior to yourself, simply because you have larger wrists. I see this a lot within watch groups and it's extremely tiresome.

  17. #117
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    Quote Originally Posted by DennisK View Post
    You seem to have a bit of a bee in your bonnet about all of this. A lot of people are simply stating a preference about this watch being made in 36mm instead of 38mm. The fact that you have to keep resorting to words such as, 'dinky', and that people who'd prefer 36mm must automatically have, 'tiny little wrists', suggests that you're trying to denigrate those same people as somehow inferior to yourself, simply because you have larger wrists. I see this a lot within watch groups and it's extremely tiresome.
    No offence intended and I'm certainly not attempting to denigrate anyone.

    For many years I've been really frustrated by the fact that so many lovely vintage pieces - for example, pretty much anything with a cal 83 inside - are only available in small sizes. The upside has been that the watch industry in general has focused on larger sizes, pretty much since the mid-late 90s, when 39mm, 40mm, 41mm (and larger) became fully established as the norm. Of course some even larger stuff is of interest too - I have owned a few 44mm Panerais in my time, for example - but I'm pretty settled for the most part around 40, 41mm. (I've never been that interested in 47mm - just a bit too cartoonish).

    Latterly however I have found it really annoying that some recent releases here I would like to wear - the Navigator was an example - are once again only available in small sizes. It may be true to some extent that fashion more generally is swinging round to smaller watches - perhaps a reaction to 50mm dinner plates, which to be fair I've considered pretty silly myself - but that seems to be more evident in Eddie's recent releases than in the watch market more generally. Hence expressing that irritation specifically here in this sub-forum.

  18. #118
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    Quote Originally Posted by kk View Post
    No offence intended and I'm certainly not attempting to denigrate anyone.

    For many years I've been really frustrated by the fact that so many lovely vintage pieces - for example, pretty much anything with a cal 83 inside - are only available in small sizes. The upside has been that the watch industry in general has focused on larger sizes, pretty much since the mid-late 90s, when 39mm, 40mm, 41mm (and larger) became fully established as the norm. Of course some even larger stuff is of interest too - I have owned a few 44mm Panerais in my time, for example - but I'm pretty settled for the most part around 40, 41mm. (I've never been that interested in 47mm - just a bit too cartoonish).

    Latterly however I have found it really annoying that some recent releases here I would like to wear - the Navigator was an example - are once again only available in small sizes. It may be true to some extent that fashion more generally is swinging round to smaller watches - perhaps a reaction to 50mm dinner plates, which to be fair I've considered pretty silly myself - but that seems to be more evident in Eddie's recent releases than in the watch market more generally. Hence expressing that irritation specifically here in this sub-forum.
    Small its not small,36mm is the right size for many watches (as long as your eyes can read them) and looks perfect IMHO.
    36mm watches have a touch of understated class to them.

  19. #119
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    Quote Originally Posted by bwest76 View Post
    Small its not small,36mm is the right size for many watches (as long as your eyes can read them) and looks perfect IMHO.
    36mm watches have a touch of understated class to them.

    That's where we have to disagree. 36mm is small by most people's estimation these days. Quite a few brands have 36mm as a small size where the full size is larger, for example IWC have a small 36mm Mk XVIII, but the main model with the majority of options is 40mm.

    Omega have done this for many years eg Speedmaster 'Reduced' - which was 38.5mm, even Rolex - pretty late to the party in the trend for larger watches - offered 39mm and 36mm Explorer. Eddie's label of 'baby' versions of some of his watches fall into this as well.

    A watch in good proportion can look classy at any size - in photos. Whether it works well on the wrist depends not on the watch, but whether it fits the wrist you are wearing it on.

  20. #120
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    Like kk I can't make 36 mm 'work' on my wrist either, wish I could just can't, tried the Everest Expedition 36mm x 44 mm , it didn't look convincingly an adult watch on me...But from experience 38mm x 46.5 mm does work exceedingly well, comfortable/ easy to wear and suggestive of vintage but not dinky.
    Interested to see some more pictures, especially the salmon dial.
    Last edited by Passenger; 7th June 2021 at 13:47.

  21. #121
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    For brands such as Rolex, Omega, Breitling etc. it's great that they can offer the same watch in varying sizes. For a small manufacturer like TF it's obviously more difficult. As the owner of ham like 7.75 in (more in the heat) wrists, most 36mm watches look like a childs watch (extra comedy value for straps or bracelets that are of a size in keeping with the diameter and are slightly tight). Some I can get away with if the design is 'just so' - usually with longer lugs but this has a very small sweet spot before it starts to look ungainly.
    40mm is my personal minimum with my preference being 42-46mm and in proportion lug to lug this sadly discounts most recent TF offerings but Eddie has carved a niche at 36mm and people seem to love it so it makes sound business sense. I wish he'd do bigger watches but with him filling capacity in minutes I can't see why he would.

  22. #122
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    Quote Originally Posted by julian2002 View Post
    I wish he'd do bigger watches but with him filling capacity in minutes I can't see why he would.
    Sad but true!

  23. #123
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    Very nice indeed.

  24. #124
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    Quote Originally Posted by swanbourne View Post
    I sold more than 2000 36mm watches last year and slightly more than 800 watches 38-44mm. Surely there's a lesson there?

    Eddie
    Blimey! That's a nice little earner!

  25. #125
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave+63 View Post
    Those figures don’t lie but can be misleading. You released a lot of 36mm variants last year and there was something of a frenzy to jump on the bandwagon (nor that it wasn’t well deserved), but how many 38-44mm models did you release? I can only think of the two baby models.
    That was my immediate thought, too.

    Personally, I find 36mm a bit on the small side (I do have even smaller watches, but rarely wear them).

    38-40mm is perfect, although I wear bigger and smaller - Caribbean looks a nice size.

    M
    Breitling Cosmonaute 809 - What's not to like?

  26. #126
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    It depends.

    Some watches suit their dimensions, and would look daft made in another.

    A 45mm Explorer.
    A 36mm DSSD.

    What may look fine and dandy strapped on the wrist now may look hilarious in the nursing home.




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  27. #127
    Grand Master snowman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by OldHooky View Post
    It depends.
    ...
    What may look fine and dandy strapped on the wrist now may look hilarious in the nursing home.
    But you won't care then!

    M
    Breitling Cosmonaute 809 - What's not to like?

  28. #128
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    I understand the desire for a bigger version of some of these, as in recent times I often wanted a smaller version of something for the same reasons.

    One thing though kk is that 36mm watches generally suit the average wrist size very well. With nearly 8" wrists you are certainly at the top end of the normal distribution and I'm not surprised you find 36mm to look too small. Mine are around the average and even I find some 36mm to wear a bit small if they have shortish lugs, narrow lug width and thin cases. I've usually solved this by sticking a nato on as it noticeably bulks the look up.

    That said, I think the 38mm of these will wear brilliantly.

  29. #129
    Administrator swanbourne's Avatar
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    Eddie
    Whole chunks of my life come under the heading "it seemed like a good idea at the time".

  30. #130
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    Quote Originally Posted by swanbourne View Post


    Eddie
    Be a good chap and put aside a cream dial for me please.
    "Once is happenstance. Twice is coincidence. The third time it's enemy action."

    'Populism, the last refuge of a Tory scoundrel'.

  31. #131
    Grand Master snowman's Avatar
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    Probably not for me, but it does look a great dress watch.

    I'm sure it'll be a big success.

    M
    Breitling Cosmonaute 809 - What's not to like?

  32. #132
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    Amazing. really lovely. Take. My. Money!

    Do/will the crystals have anti-reflective coating as they seem very reflective, but this could just be the ultra bright studio lights that caseback watches is using.......?

    And am not sure I can wait till Sept/Oct, I may just implode by then!

  33. #133
    Grand Master abraxas's Avatar
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    All three are magnificent. Really. So much better to see them in video. I am not getting involved tho. If I was still working and had somewhere to show them off, I would have had to have all three. Each model has its own vibe.

    My order of preference:

    BLACK
    CREAM
    TERRACOTTA/SALMON

    It will be interesting to see in what order the market rates them.
    "Owning one is almost as satisfying as making one." ~ Rolex 1973

  34. #134
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    Quote Originally Posted by abraxas View Post
    All three are magnificent. Really. So much better to see them in video. I am not getting involved tho. If I was still working and had somewhere to show them off, I would have had to have all three. Each model has its own vibe.

    My order of preference:

    BLACK
    CREAM
    TERRACOTTA/SALMON

    It will be interesting to see in what order the market rates them.

    Black is my first choice as well, lovely with the golden hands.
    Got a new watch, divers watch it is, had to drown the bastard to get it!

  35. #135
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    The Black and White/ Cream are a tie, the third it's a little more terracotta than I thought it might/ could be though could be my monitor. They look amazing, top job.
    Last edited by Passenger; 11th June 2021 at 14:37.

  36. #136
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    Love the video, gives a real sense of the feel of the watches. I think at 38mm without a thick bezel, these will wear quite big!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  37. #137
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    I've been taking notice of the Polerouter for some time and this might solve the problem for me.

    Well done, Eddie.

  38. #138
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    I haven’t watched the video yet but the watches do look lovely. I have a vintage dress watch so not for me But if I was in the market I would be torn between the back and the salmon with the black probably winning.
    Last edited by gerrudd; 12th June 2021 at 08:52.

  39. #139
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    Never had this watch on my radar, but now that I have seen the video: gaaah, they are so pretty! And if the dial and case would not have been enough, no, there also has to be a wonderful caseback! Can't see enough of them...

  40. #140
    Bloody marvellous. I enjoyed watching that video immensely.

  41. #141
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    I really like this watch but wish Eddie would have stuck with the 36mm and much thinner to take advantage of the thin profile of the Miyota 9039.

  42. #142
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    Just to add to the smaller/larger comments, a 30mm salmon pink would be lovely for the delightful Mrs Cornholio. I can but dream.

    Well, there was talk of a return of the Lady Speedbird...

  43. #143
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cornholio View Post
    Just to add to the smaller/larger comments, a 30mm salmon pink would be lovely for the delightful Mrs Cornholio. I can but dream.

    Well, there was talk of a return of the Lady Speedbird...
    I would certainly buy one of those for my daughter

  44. #144
    Administrator swanbourne's Avatar
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    Thinking about supplying it on a BOR bracelet and adding a blue dial.



    Eddie
    Whole chunks of my life come under the heading "it seemed like a good idea at the time".

  45. #145
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    That blue one looks fantastic, this would be my new first choice with black now second.
    Got a new watch, divers watch it is, had to drown the bastard to get it!

  46. #146
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    Thumbs up to BOR. As long as the clasp isn't a monster. And the package is still "affordable" lol.

    I kinda think the black dial should be gloss, the mat is a bit "tool watch-y" but probably not a deal breaker.

    Blue is good but not for me - no matter how many times I buy a blue dial (and thats a lot of times folks) they never seem to last in my collection for some reason......
    Last edited by solidstate100; 17th June 2021 at 16:50.

  47. #147
    Would absolutely love a slim BOR with a similar clasp as on the Everests, that really would take it up a level for me. Plenty will love the blue!

  48. #148
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    Cream dial is the winner for me, simple classic look.

  49. #149
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    The BOR really sets off the black dial for me. I'll echo solidstate above in that I would hope it stays "affordable", but it is nice to have the option of a good bracelet.

  50. #150
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    These look excellent, I think I'll be buying one. I never want to tie up too much money in a dress watch as I don't wear them often enough to justify it, but I do want something that looks "special" - looks like these will fit the bill perfectly!

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