Reply With QuoteWhat a great post. I hope you carry on working through the rare models.
Always something interesting to read on here between the more regular stuff.
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Watch-geeks & connoisseurs can read full article regarding the mysterious Pre-Must Cartier watches in a other tread. This article will be based on the oversized Cartier Stepped Tank Jumbo.
https://forum.tz-uk.com/showthread.p...Tank-Jumbo-etc
Cartier is not very helpful with releasing their records, and finding references for some vintage Cartier watches can be difficult, and therefore the early and rarer models can go unnoticed and overlooked duo the lack of information. I'm planning to post some reference differences and some knowledge which I have on certain vintage Cartier watches.
Today I will start with one of my favorites of the 1973-76 models. Its the artistic and oversized ''Cartier Stepped Tank Jumbo''. It looked very much like an LC Tank but with some notable differences in design.. It is the rarest model of these series and the largest of its time. It was basically a Cartier Tank on steroids!
The Stepped Tank model was a particular interesting watch and was the last design of the twelve Pre-Must designs. It was the only one of the series which came in a few noticeable different variations depending in which boutique it was made (Paris, London, New York). It was introduced somewhere 1975-76 and came in three similar (but o.. so different) references, and I will try to explain the differences.
The oversized Stepped Tank was a true Jumbo compared to the traditional 22mm Tank size. The case measured a whopping 38x28 mm which was considered larger than any other Tank model during the 70s and for years to come ahead.
This specific model seen above is the Cartier Ref: 15176 (New York boutique version). This is the rarest variation of the Stepped Tank series. It was the only model which was gold coated on a ''Brass'' metal alloy case (The Paris & London variations were gold coated on ''Steel'' cases). It was produced around 1975-76 in the Cartier boutique New York. It was also the only reference which had a ''Four-Screw'' back case (the others had snap back cases). It is also the only one with an unusual large elongated spinnel cabochon crown. It was also the only one one which had a recessed area in the case design to protect the winder forming a crown guard. It was also the only reference which had the true Cartier markings and serial numbers. It had punched Cartier logo and text in French language, and punched serial numbers. These case serial numbers on the Stepped Tanks should always start with the number 12 followed by its 5 digits case serial number. The other references did not had a serial number on the outside case and where lightly / shallow engraved with the Cartier brand and text. They had a ETA 2512 / Cartier caliber 78-1 movement signed ''Cartier Inc'' (Only the US market Cartier ETA calibres were signed Cartier Inc). Serial numbers research points out that the ref: 15716 was only produced in max 2500 pieces before it was discontinued in late 1976 which makes it the rarest of the three references.
The Cartier (London boutique version) Ref: 5512116 had a Small crown. It did 'not' had a recessed area in the case design for the crown. They had a snap back case with no screws. It had a engraved back case (in English language) with No serial numbers on the outside (numbers are inside the case). They had a ETA 2512 / Cartier caliber 78-1 movement signed ''Cartier''. It was issued in gold coated on steel and only max 5000 pieces of the ref: 471 were ever made before it was discontinued in 1976.
The Cartier (Paris boutique version) had also the Ref: 5512116 and also had a Small crown and a snap / push back-case with No screws and also did not had a recessed crown guard. It had a engraved back case (in the French language) with No serial numbers (numbers are inside the case). They had a ETA 2512 / Cartier caliber 78-1 movement signed ''Cartier''. These were also issued in gold coated on steel and also only max 5000 pieces of the ref: 1543 were ever made before it was also discontinued in 1976.
Many of these differences have to do with that Paris & London boutique were based closer together and exchanged the same ideas, designs and stock parts. The New York boutique was a more isolated store on the other side of the globe, and they came up with their own parts and designs which today reflects back in many of the pre 1977 models, and the three different reference variations of the Stepped Tank Jumbo is a good example of this.
All three variations came with a signed Cartier caliber 78-1 hand wind movement which was based on the ETA 2512. And all three had a slightly domed curved ''Natural Crystal Glass'' which was level with the case sides and not raised.
The dials from these series were always signed in the old style Cartier typeface font. They were painted and Cartier back than used a new experimental lacquer paint. Because of this almost all of these Pre-Must dials have patina aged to different colors and developed crackling trough the paint which we consider today to be tropical / spider dials. They came in white, black, brown and the very rare color blue. They had black or gilded numerals and had sword hands / pointers which came in black, blue and gold.
The London and Paris references were the only ones that came in different dials colors. The NYC reference came only with a white dial and black hands.
Overall: These Stepped Tank Jumbo watches can be considered sleepers duo the lack of information out there. They were only made in low volumes for only a couple years somewhere in 1975-76, before the company was sold of to a investors group who introduced the new 'Must De' line.
The Ref: 15716 New York is the rarest version of the Stepped Tanks, with a production of max 2500 pieces, unlike the Paris and London versions which each produced in max 5000 pieces and issued in 18k coated gold.
Comparing these Stepped Tank models on rarity with for example an Rolex Daytona (Paul Newman) ref: 6239, which were produced in only 14.000 pieces, the Stepped Tank was produced in much lower quantities. This was because of the low demand duo to the oversized nature and design of the case, and because it was discontinued in late 1976 when the three Cartier boutiques reunite their three branches into one in 1977. Therefore not many of these were produced and sold, and are today very scarce and sought after.
Cartier is not very helpful with releasing their records. But by studying the Cartier literature and researching these watch models over the years by their case serial numbers and differences, rarity, market availability, me and my colleagues have come to the following conclusions.
Cartier Stepped Tank Jumbo Ref: 15716 (made in New York) - very rare - gold coated on 'brass alloy' - estimate approx 2500 pieces.
Cartier Stepped Tank Jumbo Ref: 5512116 (made in Paris) - rare - gold coated on 'steel' alloy- estimate approx 5000 pieces.
Cartier Stepped Tank Jumbo Ref: 5512116 (made in London) - rare - gold coated on 'steel' alloy - estimate approx 5000 pieces.
These production numbers are rough and high estimates based on the research done and the case serial numbers which were found.
For example: up to date the highest number which was found on the reference 15716 New York edition was 02070, so the figure of 2500 pieces is a rough and high estimate.
The London and Paris edition case serial research and resources show that these Paris and London variations are more widely available because they were more popular in West Europa than they were in the United States. So the figure of 5000 pieces is an rough estimate.
If you find a higher serial number than 2500 on your 15716 New York reference than please contact me with an image of this and I will update this thread.
This is a picture of a 15716 with a slightly damaged back case showing the brass alloy coming trough the gold coating.
The London Cartier ref: 5512116 & Paris Cartier ref: 5512116 were issued in ''18k'' coated gold on ''Steel'', unlike the ref: 15716 New York boutique which was gold coated in ''14k'' (American standard) on ''brass''.
This is an example of a badly polished Paris boutique version were the gold coating has been completely polished away and you can see the bare steel alloy.
Some watch pictures of the Cartier Stepped Tank Jumbo which I found on the net.
Cartier round peseux pre must, Cartier square peseux pre must, Cartier oval pre must, cartier tank pre must, Cartier rounded pre must, cartier stepped rounded pre must, cartier stepped oval pre must, cartier ceinture pre must, cartier lugged ceinture pre must,
Cartier tank cristallor pre must, cartier tank wood pre must, cartier stepped tank pre must
Last edited by benbenny; 30th September 2022 at 20:10. Reason: Updating info
What a great post. I hope you carry on working through the rare models.
Always something interesting to read on here between the more regular stuff.
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Very interesting read OP. Thank you. I feel Cartier watches generally are an under represented brand here, with a fascinating history snd some truly iconic designs.
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I've loved that model since seeing it on Theo and Harris but he didn't know too much about it so I've struggled to find another in my limited searches.
Thanks for the info it'll make finding one that bit easier!
Thank you all for the kind words, happy I could help.
I'm thinking about creating my next topic about Cartier Steve McQueen from 1968. It is a fairly unknown model which is linked to him unlike the other watches he has worn throughout his life.
Would that be of any interest?
Last edited by benbenny; 19th February 2021 at 23:00.
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