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Thread: Bathroom Light not working

  1. #1
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    Bathroom Light not working

    So this hasn't worked for a number of years now. I originally thought it needed a new bulb but that wasn't it so never bothered looking into it after that.
    Anyway took the mirror off this morning and photographed the electrics.
    Im hoping someone here could tell me which part is most likely to need replacing.
    I'm guessing the ballast but that's quite literally a guess.
    Thanks guys.

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  2. #2
    Master IAmATeaf's Avatar
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    That box at the top, the IR switch is what presumably switches the light on so you could try bypassing it but beyond that no idea I’m afraid.

  3. #3
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    I lived with a similar issue for a few years also. Mine was the ballast, but as per above remove the IR from the circuit to check that first.

  4. #4
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    Thanks guys. If I work out how to bypass the IR I will
    Failing that if a new ballast is only a few quid I might just order up and chance that.

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  5. #5
    Master IAmATeaf's Avatar
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    Bathroom Light not working

    What’s is the make/model of the mirror? Wondering how the IR sensor works, does it just detect motion and turn on the light or is there a sensor or maybe even a remote?

    Edit Just googled, so a sensor at the bottom of the mirror, assume that you’ve swept your hand/foot under the sensor
    Last edited by IAmATeaf; 25th October 2020 at 18:34.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by IAmATeaf View Post
    What’s is the make/model of the mirror? Wondering how the IR sensor works, does it just detect motion and turn on the light or is there a sensor or maybe even a remote?
    There's a little sense on the bottom of it at the left side. Run your hand under it, don't even nerd to touch it, and the light switches on. Not sure what make it is though.

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  7. #7
    Master IAmATeaf's Avatar
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    If you have a decent voltmeter and know what you are doing you could remove the screw on the left of the ir sensor, sweep the sensor and check that the outputs which are at the bottom show 240v.

    This is mains so only do this is you are both confident and comfortable.

  8. #8
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    Incidentally when I run my hand under the light tries to switch on, lights up slightly then goes out. Does that indicate the ballast or would it still possibly be the IR unit?

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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by IAmATeaf View Post
    If you have a decent voltmeter and know what you are doing you could remove the screw on the left of the ir sensor, sweep the sensor and check that the outputs which are at the bottom show 240v.

    This is mains so only do this is you are both confident and comfortable.
    I don't unfortunately.

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  10. #10
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    Help

    Quote Originally Posted by sniper-sam View Post
    I don't unfortunately.

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    I would make sure you are inserting the tube correctly I’ve attended many a job where that is the cause , also if you don’t have the confidence to bypass the switch or have a multimeter to check voltage, please call in a professional 😊

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by sniper-sam View Post
    Thanks guys. If I work out how to bypass the IR I will
    Failing that if a new ballast is only a few quid I might just order up and chance that.
    First of all isolate the circuit so you don't electrocute yourself. Unscrew the screw holding the terminal cover on the IR module & underneath you should see the Live & Neutral cores of the feed in & the two cores going to the light. Connect the light cores directly to the mains in cores, one to each. If the lamp lights when you turn the power back on then It's probably the IR module that is at fault. Post a picture of the IR module connections when you have removed the cover if you want more guidance.

    Work safely. Make sure the circuit is dead & don't touch it when you turn the power back on.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by theevaultkeeper View Post
    I would make sure you are inserting the tube correctly I’ve attended many a job where that is the cause , also if you don’t have the confidence to bypass the switch or have a multimeter to check voltage, please call in a professional 😊
    It's a 4 pin socket coming out of the ballast mate. I don't think there is a wrong way to do it.
    I've had experience with electrics in the past but I don't know what I'm looking at with the IR unit. I'm guessing I'm unscrewing the little screw on the left and joining the 2 cables together to create an always on feed but not 100% sure if I'm right.

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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Pointy View Post
    First of all isolate the circuit so you don't electrocute yourself. Unscrew the screw holding the terminal cover on the IR module & underneath you should see the Live & Neutral cores of the feed in & the two cores going to the light. Connect the light cores directly to the mains in cores, one to each. If the lamp lights when you turn the power back on then It's probably the IR module that is at fault. Post a picture of the IR module connections when you have removed the cover if you want more guidance.

    Work safely. Make sure the circuit is dead & don't touch it when you turn the power back on.
    I think that's pretty much what I've just said above. We posted at the same time lol.

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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Pointy View Post
    First of all isolate the circuit so you don't electrocute yourself. Unscrew the screw holding the terminal cover on the IR module & underneath you should see the Live & Neutral cores of the feed in & the two cores going to the light. Connect the light cores directly to the mains in cores, one to each. If the lamp lights when you turn the power back on then It's probably the IR module that is at fault. Post a picture of the IR module connections when you have removed the cover if you want more guidance.

    Work safely. Make sure the circuit is dead & don't touch it when you turn the power back on.
    Basically unscrew this and join live to live and neatrul to neatrul?

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  15. #15
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    Firstly, I’m not an electrician.

    Next, we used to have halogen lighting powered by a transformer like the box at the bottom. They eventually fail and need replacing. They were about £6 from an electrical wholesalers or £12 from B&Q. The B&Q ones had a click connector to cut off and use the wires.


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