I've been runnning on and off for many years, although more off than on this year.
Thing is at 57 my joints are starting to object to the pounding they get when I run.
So, I've decided to have a go at cycling as well and to keep my runs to perhaps one or two a week over short distances.
I tried cycling years ago and bought myself a brand new MTB, namely a Claude Butler 'Cape Wrath' 18" frame aluminium alloy frame. It's fairly well specified for saying I bought it back in the early 2000's (can't remember exactly but it was around 2003-2005 ish).
I bought it to compliment my training as I was training for the London Marathon at that time.
It should perhaps have been a road bike but at that time I lived more rural and had access to canal paths and dirt tracks so a MTB seemed a good idea.
However, I didn't really take to it and preferred to run so it's had hardly any use since and is currently residing in my garage.
So now I'm thinking about dusting it off again but am not sure if I should sell it and look at putting the cash towards a nice used road bike?
At 5'8" an 18" (45cm) frame is ideal for a MTB but is too small for a road bike, which for my height should be around 21"-22" (55cm).
So do I sell the MTB or should I convert it to a road bike?
It seems to me that the main issues are:-
A) Frame size. Whatever else I do the frame size is technically too small for my height with a road bike.
B) Gears. I think that road bikes are geared differently?
C) Rims and tyres. I'm not sure but there is a limit to how slim a tyre can be fitted to a Mavic MTB rim?
So at best, I could end up with a second rate road bike that is no longer of any use as a MTB.
What do you cycling gurus think?
If I were to look at buying a used road bike, what makes would you avoid and what would be a good option if bought second hand?
I don't want to spend silly money just in case I don't take to it but I also appreciate that if I buy a crap bike I'm increasing the chances that I won't take to it?
I'm never going to be good enough to feel the benefit of a carbon fibre body so a nice lightweight aluminium frame would be fine I think.
Old but good is fine but like most blokes I like a nice toy as well, so if it looks good all the better!
I was looking today on EBay and Sphpock and if you're not hung up on the top brands or the latest space age unobtanium frames, there seem to be some decent bikes for around £200-£300
Anyway, over to you guys for some sage advice...
Last edited by Orange Peel; 20th October 2020 at 15:28.
Honesty, go to your local bike shop, one that's been around for a few years and that stocks a few different manufacturers. Get them to measure you have a chat about budgets and go from there..a bike is really personal and asking for general advice could end up with you spending money on something completely wrong for you.
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I don't think you should convert your MTB, if that's even possible. At best you can put slick road tyres on your wheels.
The geometry of a road bike, even a flat bar road bike, is quite different to a mountain bike.
I think Giant is a benchmark for price and quality out there.
Definitely go to your local bike shop and they will help you
Thanks for the replies so far.
I'm not sure if local shops will 'assess' me due to Covid but it's worth asking.
I will check Giant out but I really can't be spending £400+ on a bike, not until I've made sure I'm 'into' it and can then upgrade if I wish.
Just chuck some Schwalbe City Jet slicks on the Cape Wrath and ride that for a while, see if you're 'into' it, then upgrade to a hybrid or road bike after thatOriginally Posted by Orange Peel
I’ve got an old steel mtb hard tail and, as above, just threw some slick tyres and narrower tubes on it, and got cycling.
If it fits you for MTB, it’ll be fine for pounding the roads and lanes and get the blood circulating.
One thing I would say, as somebody who has recently purchased a new aluminium ‘road bike’ is that they can also give you a bit of a pounding joints and muscle wise, at least they do on the roads around here.
A carbon framed bike, as well as being lighter, also flexes a lot more and can be a bit more comfortable, but they’re pricey.
I’ve gone tubeless on what is now really a gravel bike, I fitted slightly wider cyclo cross tyres and lowered the pressures and it’s a lot more comfortable. I can now cover the miles on the farm tracks and bridleways around where I live, which were a bit boring on a full suss MTB, and I can still cover the road miles way quicker than before. Roads can be good, but I prefer a mix!
If you only want it to exercise then using it as is, is more than adequate. Large, knobbly tyres create more drag so you have to use more effort (energy) for a given situation. You’ll therefore get more exercise over a shorter route or time.
This because at this time of the year the City Jets will give you some comfort as they are wider and run lower pressure than road tyres ( see post above) they will be faster than the current mtb tyres and total cost to convert will be £30. I fitted city jet 1.5 ‘s on my wifes mtb and it flys. Fit some mudguards / Crud catcher to keep the winter spray off and run it until spring.
The drag on the tyres Plus the weight of the frame will give you a good workout, don’t worry about spinning out on the road it wont happen much.
Then when you pick up a second hand road bike in spring it will honestly feel like a race horse in comparison and will further flatter and motivate you to carry on riding.
I've been down the MTB on road -> cheapish aluminium road bike -> more expensive carbon road bike route, not really any regrets but riding a MTB on the road just isn't pleasant, luckily for me I knew straight away road cycling was going to be my thing so the MTB phase only lasted a few weeks...like you I thought carbon was a a waste for me until I rode one!
The only thing I would add is think about how you might use the bike, if it's road with the odd trail thrown in a gravel bike would be a good option.
Thanks, this all seems good advice.
What exactly is a gravel bike and how does it differ to say a hybrid or a road bike?
Also, what's with the single-gear bikes I keep seeing when I Google? Are they just something easy and simple for short spins to the shops etc?
Hmmm, I can see you're point but financially I'm just not in Carbon frame territory, even second hand they are expensive and reputed to be just as costly to repair of you have a bump?
However, I know next to nothing so appreciate the education?
Gravel bike is just a more friendly road bike / mountain bike inside a road bike frame. The geometry is more comfy than a proper road bike but it can still do respectable distances. The tyres are usually thicker so you can go off road if you want to and up front at the pedals most of the time they only have one ring for simplicity.
At 57 and new to the road I'll assume you're not going to be chasing Strava KOMs (strava is a popular app among roadies, for tracking rides and performance). So with that said I'd rule out any road bikes with drop bars –*riding in the drop position is pretty uncomfortable and really only benefits those wanting to get as aerodynamic as possible.
There are plenty of road specific bikes that use flat bars, like those on a mountain bike you're used to. Stick to a mainstream brand to get the most for your money. Giant, Trek, Specialized, Scott, et al. They're more common in the used market than a 'cool' Italian brand.
Look for components from Shimano - at your budget you should be able to find something with Sora, Tiagra, or 105 at a stretch.
Comfort is also important so look for something that fits 28mm tyres or larger.
Enjoy the ride.
I started to get back into exercising a while back (we'll not talk what my _current_ exercise regime is *cough*) and went through a similar process.
First up: the best bike is the one you already have, as it is - if you want to start cycling, I'd give your current bike a once over - check that everything is tight, grease where there should be, wheels are true, steering, gears and brakes work and go and get cycling. There's more than enough information online to help with this if you're not mechanically inclined, otherwise find a local bike shop or if you're handy with a spanner and Allen keys, it's pretty straightforward and cheap.
If you've not already got one, I'd recommend getting a small saddle bag you can carry a basic multi-tool, tyre levers, a puncture repair kit and a new inner tube and add a compact or CO2 pump - just swap the tube if you get a puncture when you're out, the puncture kit is just if you're really unlucky. Go give your local cycle shop a bit of business and look at the shiny bikes whilst you're there, or I've had good experiences ordering online with Wiggle and Chain Reaction Cycles (they're the same company).
Especially because you mentioned your knees, but really for everyone, it's worth double-checking that you have the right position - most people set their seat way too low to allow their legs to work properly and that can put unnecessary stress on the joints. The position of the handlebars and the length of the stem can have an impact on how comfortable you feel. If you're using flat pedals, then that's an easy place to start as you don't have to worry about those, but you also lose the benefit of being clipped in to the pedals and having the best part of your foot (or the whole foot) on a stable platform (part of the shoes) to pedal with.
Another thing to watch is the size and shape of the seat - the wrong seat can lead to pressure, friction and pain in places no person wants pain - it's reasonably cheap to fix, a new saddle can follow you to a new bike when the time comes and your nether regions will thank you.
Again, plenty stuff online about how to set your riding position, check seat fit and so on. If you get into things there are services to check and adjust your saddle, pedal and general bike fit which can make a difference to how you'll feel, ride and the stress on your joints.
If you do want to get clipless pedals and the matching shoes, it's not a massive outlay and I personally found it made a big difference to how I felt on the bike and avoided my feet slipping off flat pedals and smacking my chins against things, especially when riding offroad. It does take a little getting used to twisting to release your foot from the pedal, but you'll learn quickly enough after the first few rolls in the mud! I have three bikes, two of which have Shimano SPD pedals the last (my oldest bike) is on flat pedals for popping to the shops.
As far as converting an old MTB to a road bike, I personally think they're two very different beasts: if you're looking to ride entirely on-road, get a road bike. If you're looking to mix it up, with tracks or more technical stuff, then there are hybrid designs like gravel bikes or your current or a newer MTB would be a better shout.
Certainly in the immediate term, if you just want to get your stamina up, decide if cycling is what you want, and whether or not you're going to be on-, off-road or mixing terrain then use what you have a use that to inform your future purchases.
As others have said, you could definitely make a MTB a little more pleasant and easier to ride on-road by choosing a set of slicker tyres which will roll better and probably be more resilient to punctures, especially if you're riding in cities with glass and other crap on the road.
However, you're right - the frame and hence your position on a MTB vs a road bike and the gear ratios that are available are rather different, never mind the size of the rims and tyres. I definitely find MTBs more comfortable and given the gearing is aimed at going up inclines and not going fast, it's much easier on the legs when the hills arrive! However, if you end up going out with a group on road bikes, you're unlikely to be able to keep up when the pace goes up.
It didn't make financial sense to swap out half of an old mountain bike to turn it into a compromised road bike when I did my sums, and you'd probably have to look carefully at how interchangeable some parts are, both because of the age of your current bike and the change in role.
When it comes to buying another bike, be it MTB or road (or some sort of hybrid or even an electric variant), there's so many options and you need to decide what you're looking for. I heartily second speaking with your local bike shop if you can - try out some bikes, some of the better shops will have a few bikes you can take out for proper ride, rather than just wiggling them around the shop.
One thing I found useful to judge where the money on a bike was to look at the parts - if you're looking at a bike with brakes, shifters and derailleurs from a known brand like SRAM or Shimano, and they're all from the same series, that's a good sign. A mix of low-end parts and the odd higher end part smells a little like penny pinching hit a price point or to leave room for the brand name is less great, but still might be necessary depending on the market segment. Own brand pedals, seats, handle bars don't matter, and you might change those yourself anyway.
When I went down the route you're on now, I ended up getting myself a newer 29" mountain bike from eBay since that was the sort of riding I was doing at the time and ended up picking up a hybrid road bike a few years later in the end of season sales with around 40% off the new model price. My ancient MTB just gets used for pottering about.
Lots of sensible stuff in threescoops post.
My tuppence worth is to fit robust slicks onto your current MTB and take it from there. If it turns out that you enjoy Road Cycling, consider investing in a dedicated Road Bike. I say ‘invest’ as cheap bikes are a false economy if you intend to be a cyclist!
Chris Im 64 and just today picked up a 9th overall in time in the KOM for my area. Ok its on a full carbon road bike, but my Strava data shows Im riding faster than I was 5 years ago. Yes a glorious summer and nothing to do has influenced my fitness somewhat:)
Steve
Yes some great advice from all and I appreciate all the detail from threescoops.
One thing I recall from when i last rode my MTB is that I got awful shoulder burn/cramp in the (I think) Trapezius muscles? I also felt like I was being gang banged over bumps!
Perhaps A/ My riding position is wrong and B/ My padded shorts are crap and I need a better saddle?
When sat on the saddle, my leg is not quiet fully extended when the pedal is in the lowest position, is that correct?
If I try to use the MTB (with a 45" frame) as a road bike (even with road tyres) won't I just keep getting the same issues as technically the frame is too small for road use for my height?
Think I'll tough it out on the MTB though until after the new year and then try to sell it and look for road bike bargains after everyone has new bikes for Christmas?!!!
I can save up in the meantime....hmmm....I could always sell some more fragrances?.......
Just buy a couple of cheap road semi-slick tyres for your mountain bike, try that out first see how you get on.
The way I’ve always set my saddle height is to have a straight leg when my heel is on the pedal, which means my leg is slightly bent at the lowest point with my foot back in the normal pedal position.
Heh, hopefully it makes sense, I do get a bit on the verbose side at times!
I’d probably suspect how much weight you’re putting on your arms if you’re getting sore shoulders, but it may also be that you’re wrestling the wheel a little bit, hard to tell.
Yes, just shy of full extension whilst in the saddle sounds good, though do check how far forward and outstretched your arms are too. As I said, there are a lot of good descriptions out there from people that know what they’re talking about.
Road and MTB frames and positions are very different, so if your current bike is the right size for you, stretching out to a more road like position is likely to just feel awkward.
Don’t think of the frame size in terms of what use you’re putting the bike through, a MTB frame that fits still fits if you’re riding on the road. If you drop the bars and stretch the position out, then you’re unlikely to get a good fit.
Buy something like this and if you don't like it sell it for what you paid for it.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pinnacle-...AAAOSwZdBfjYU-
This is what I would say too - at least until you decide that you enjoy cycling and will stick to it as an alternative to running. I would use your MTB for, say, 3 months and if you decide you are going to stick with cycling to keep fit make a decision then (either stick with the MTB or go the whole hog and get a road bike if faster cycling is important to you). Otherwise you could get a new 'toy' that is gathering dust before too long.
BTW I have a MTB and on the odd occasion I use it, I certainly feel that my legs and lungs have been working afterwards, despite the pitifully slow progress!
Having done a bit more looking into this, I think that what I need is an 'Endurance' or 'Sportive' road bike?
They seem to be keeping to a road bike philosophy rather than a MTB or Hybrid but claim to be more configured for comfort (relatively speaking I'm sure) and lend themselves better to longer rides.
Apparantly the frames have some flex to soak up some road bumps as well as the frame shape being a little more comfortable than an all out, speed focussed road bike.
However, they seem awfully expensive for some reason!
Can anyone offer any nuggets of wisdom regarding this type of bike and any recommendations of what to look out for used that won't cost more than my car?
it’s not so much the flex it’s just a slightly relaxed geometry (slacker head angle) and the ability to take a bigger tyre (28-40c)
i think the go-to bike at the ‘cheap’ end is the pinnacle Acrose. there must be other similar spec bikes out there as it’s a competitive sector and other brands want a slice of the pie.
there will be subtle differences between bikes, some will have 1x gearing (just one front ring and wide range cassette at the rear) others a conventional 2x set-up.
at the endurance end they will be 2x and 700c wheels with room for bigger tyres and mudguards at the other end you will have more ‘gravel' focussed bikes with 650b wheels and 40c + tyres, these give the same rolling radius as 700c but a lot more cushioning from they bigger volume tyre. then there are all the bikes in between these 2.
time to do some googling/reading reviews etc!
- - - Updated - - -
it’s not so much the flex it’s just a slightly relaxed geometry (slacker head angle) and the ability to take a bigger tyre (28-40c)
i think the go-to bike at the ‘cheap’ end is the pinnacle Acrose. there must be other similar spec bikes out there as it’s a competitive sector and other brands want a slice of the pie.
there will be subtle differences between bikes, some will have 1x gearing (just one front ring and wide range cassette at the rear) others a conventional 2x set-up.
at the endurance end they will be 2x and 700c wheels with room for bigger tyres and mudguards at the other end you will have more ‘gravel' focussed bikes with 650b wheels and 40c + tyres, these give the same rolling radius as 700c but a lot more cushioning from they bigger volume tyre. then there are all the bikes in between these 2.
time to do some googling/reading reviews etc!
Exactly this. If all you want is to keep fit, then you're existing bike should suffice.
If you eventually want to go faster or longer distances, then you could fit smoother road tyres or maybe in time to consider a road bike.
Given your age, the geometry of you MTB bike may be more appropriate as road bikes require the rider to get down into the drops and that gets more difficult as we get less flexible with age.
Best advice on here - adapt the bike youve got as much as possible and then spend as much as you can afford on the bike you need.
Youre only going to establish your needs once you get on the bike and ride it
I did this and got this...
Haven't ridden MTB for a long time and put off buying a bike every year until this year. No regrets, loving the local trails and the bike is incredible for the money.
Good advice guys, thanks.
I'll likely put some road tyres on my MTB along with some handle bar extensions/end pieces, check out my saddle type and position and get it serviced and set up for me, by a local bike shop.
I'll then use it for a few months and see how it feels.
I can always sell it if I get road bike down the line, or even keep it for winter use?
HAGWE
I’m going to go against the grain here and say riding an MTB on the road is always a compromise and can be miserable, even with skinny tyres. I’d pick up a Specialized Allez or similar off eBay for around £300 now and if you don’t enjoy it pop it back on eBay in spring when prices will be rising. There’ll be a glut of road bikes on eBay in the next few months when all the fair weather cyclists decide cycling through the winter isn’t fun.
Additionally, full length mudguards are cheap for road bikes and will keep you more dry over the winter months than most MTB mudguards.
Last edited by benny.c; 30th October 2020 at 09:25.
10 years ago, I broke my knee skiing and as part of my recovery I put road tyres on my mountain bike.
The difference between the off road tyres and the road tyres was dramatic and made the bike so much nicer to ride on the road.
As a first step I'd agree with the others who suggest doing that and seeing if you enjoy cycling.
I don't ride bikes that much, but would agree a good road bike will be better if you're doing a lot of cycling, but an MTB on road tyres will be a reasonable first step and, in my experience, certainly not 'miserable'.
M
Breitling Cosmonaute 809 - What's not to like?
It’s all relative of course but riding a 15kg+ MTB solely on the road would put me off cycling, not encourage me.
Happy Riding!
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