Reply With QuoteIn the absence of a photo I would say wax, can give more of a retro look, infinitely touchuppable, and can be over waxed with another shade if or when required.
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All right its a bit mumsnet but the group here has pretty much tried everything over the years and generally has an opinion on most things that they are thankfully (most of the time) willing to share....
I've built my lovely wife a steampunk desk to help her work from home from some oak planks and metal from a reclamation yard - its all sanded now and I just have the choice - varnish or wax..... I don't want to ruin it at this stage....
Many thanks
Tim
In the absence of a photo I would say wax, can give more of a retro look, infinitely touchuppable, and can be over waxed with another shade if or when required.
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Without seeing pictures I’d be going with Osmo oil
Originally Posted by tintin
At last, something i know a bit about!
https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com...SAAEgLEqPD_BwE
Go with this product for the best of both worlds. Looks like wax but protects like varnish...
Can get coloured and also satin/dead flat clear.
If you're happy with the colour now then go for satin clear and it'll give a soft sheen and offer protection that wax just cannot.
I would say osmo might stay a bit oily and sticky.
A good woodstain will bring out the grain then once cured, a few coats of clear wax. Always best to try out on something else first so you can get the colour you want. If you use varnish then try not to use a water based one. Rubbish stuff in my opinion.
It’s great stuff but I’ve found this too
Must say the guys at wood finishers direct are pretty helpful- it’s just down the road from me too
The Polyx oil? No idea why, I've been using it for years on doors, furniture and kitchen worktops
I’ve used on internal doors and a cedar greenhouse and it’s fine. But if I was leaning on it writing, I think it could be a small issue.
I think osmo polyx oil would be good on it. I'm going to do the same on mine I bought 1" oak kitchen work surface and made a long monitor shelf and table top desk below it for my pc and music gear. Came lightghtly pre- oiled. I wish I had osmo'd it right from the start but I was lazy and just wanted to get cracking. I use osmo on everything from floor, axe and hammer handles, oak hand made boxes, garage work bench. It dries pretty non oily if you do it thin and has a nice finish. I use 3032 satin clear.
I would agree, followed by Beewax.
Whoever does not know how to hit the nail on the head should be asked not to hit it at all.
Friedrich Nietzsche
I was thinking top oil
Osmo polyx oil is great stuff but try a brand called
Rubio monocoat and make sure you get the part b ( hardener/activator )
With it, I use oils all the time and it’s the best out there
Many thanks everyone, I had an online chat today with Becky at AllFinishes who was very helpful and I will order some Rubio monocoat (and related hardener etc.) tomorrow once SWMBO has finally approved my selection of shade - the product seems to reflect the overall preference of oil and is easily applied etc.
As always there are always people on this forum with experience and a diverse taste so you get a good range of views. Have a very nice evening. T
Any photos? I think everyone likes seeing a project!
I’d say rag on a light coating of Linseed Oil, leave it 24 hours and buff it with a dry cloth. I did a floor I sanded and it came up a treat and kept well for years, and any scuffs required a light oiling again.
Danish Oil always works well - brings out the grain really well and has a nice satin finisj
Thisscraped back and sanded a dark Jacobean oak stained solid oak dining table a couple of years ago. Two thin coats at the time, applied via rag not brush and one top up since. Withstands red wine etc and not sticky at all.
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