Helvetia/Borgel Project

[enfield]

Hello all,

Thought I'd post some pictures of my latest project. A couple of weeks ago I stumbled upon a post from a year ago on another forum where someone was asking for information on a Borgel watch, in pieces, with a Helvetia cal 81 movement. The movement had been identified but had been dated to the 1940s and the case to WW1 so it was dismissed as a marriage.

From movement markings I knew it dated from about 1930 and that Helvetia were still using Borgel cases sometimes then even though they had brought out their own waterproof case in 1929. The very blurry hallmark also looked to be from 1930. The Wilderness catalogue of 1931 illustrates one as well as Helvetia's new waterproof watch.



I let him know that his watch was correct and also sent a DM in the hope he still had the watch and would be interested in selling. He still had the pieces though had to do some digging, we did a deal and I received it yesterday.

All the parts appear to be there and although the watch is filthy the movement isn't too bad and it runs.



The screw ring was still in the case and the movement seemed to have been removed without the case screws being undone.



The hands are mismatched and almost certainly replacements. There also seems to be an extra case screw and I know the brass coloured bar is for the pin set I'm not sure what the black folded tube is? The crown, what's left of it, needs changing. Is there anything special about these crowns? It needs to cover the end of the tube but not down too far as to not be able to be pulled away from the screw keeping the stem assembly in place.



The dial has also seen better days, cracked and dirty.



Here is an example from a couple of years of years earlier with a non luminous dial so possibly one of the hands could be right if the dial was supplied without luminous paint originally.



The reason the pin set on the watch above, and on the illustration, is below the stem and not above is because at this time, 1928, Helvetia were using adapted FHF movements for their shock protected watches, they introduced the cal 81 in 1929 and it must have meant the position of the pin setting mechanism needed moving.

So quite a job but I think it's salvageable. It's interesting to me as it is an early example of Helvetia producing shock and water protected watches.

Thanks. Carl.

[alfat33]

What a great find Carl. I’m sure you will bring it back to it’s best. Such a versatile movement and Helvetia seem to use the same designs over decades at times.

Really looking forward to seeing the watch develop in the coming weeks? months?

[enfield]

What a great find Carl. I’m sure you will bring it back to it’s best. Such a versatile movement and Helvetia seem to use the same designs over decades at times.

Really looking forward to seeing the watch develop in the coming weeks? months?

Thanks Simon

I've made some progress already, dial and case have cleaned up nicely.





I've put the movement, screw ring and case back together properly and the pin set and stem all work.

I've got some hands I'm going to try but I think they may be a bit short. If I can get a new crown this could be a record time for a renovation!

[enfield]

Making good progress. Hands are a little short as I thought but 130/80 hands are not easy to find. I have a crown on the way that might fit, not exactly the correct type but might do the job.

[alfat33]

Those lugs are interesting, definitely a bit more modern (as in 30s/40s/50s).

[enfield]

I think this is as far as I can go until I get a Borgel crown. This one works but is not really the 'look' I'm after!

It's not come up too bad considering what I had to start with. I even attempted painting the numerals myself for the first time, they're OK as long as you don't look too closely!

The strap may be an issue as the normal fixed bar glue down ones may not fit well because of the curved bars. The illustration from the catalogue shows a pull through strap but the gap between the bars and the case is only about 1.5mm so I think I'll struggle to find a leather one that fits. I might try a Perlon as a sort of woven strap substitute.



Thanks. Carl.

[enfield]

Hi everyone,

I have finally got the crown I need for the restoration.



And with it's 13 away serial number brother.



Unfortunately (or fortunately) I got hold of the crown by buying two Borgel cases that were on eBay. I used one crown for this watch but the other case is actually from another Helvetia Borgel watch from a few years earlier, 1924, so now I've got another project and there is a Helvetia movement in a screw in Borgel ring on eBay ay the moment, will it ever end!



Thanks.

Carl