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Thread: Concrete section garages, advice sought

  1. #1
    Grand Master
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    Concrete section garages, advice sought

    After a lengthy saga the house deal I’ve been trying to put together has reached a positive conclusion and I shall be buying the property v. soon. I’ll end up owning 2 properties for a short time (shorter the better).

    I’m planning to extend the property and that will involve moving the existing concrete section garage. It has a pitched roof and all panels are the same height so (theoretically) it could be moved backwards by taking the ends out and moving a panel from each side from front to back. The garage is in good condition and its quite large (23’ x 11’ approx), it would meet my needs but I’d prefer a double, there’s plenty of space to do this.

    The alternative is to buy a new concrete garage (around 22’ x 16’) or go the whole hog and have a brick- built double put up.

    I’ve ended up paying more than I wanted for the property so there’s a bit less cash to throw around, compromising on the garage is likely so the brick option will probably be a no- no.

    I store a classic car and need the facility to work on it, making the garage dry and condensation - free is important. Potentially another classic car may be acquired in the fullness of time despite Mrs Walker’s reservations........if I have any spare brass left!

    I’m looking for advice and tapping into other folks’s experiences. There’s no option to build an integral garage in brick , it’ll have to be free- standing.

    All advice welcome.

  2. #2
    Grand Master Chris_in_the_UK's Avatar
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    Hi Paul - brick will be a lesser condensation risk if it has a decent roof.

    If you are going to store a car(s) and have a workshop in there it needs (obviously) to be able to be heated/ventilated (simple to do).

    The concrete panel stuff is always cold and difficult to make hospitable IME.
    When you look long into an abyss, the abyss looks long into you.........

  3. #3
    Grand Master
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    Thanks Chris, I’m wondering whether the shortcomings of a concrete section garage can be overcome. Years ago I had a single- skin freestanding brick garage that always seemed drier than a similarly sized concrete I’d had previously.

    Some of the concrete ones available nowadays look OK, but I worry that the fundamental problems still exist.

  4. #4
    Grand Master oldoakknives's Avatar
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    Go brick and double sized, it won't cost much more to go a bit bigger. Get quotes (lots) for different sizes, you may be pleasantly surprised. Concrete is always cold and damp in my experience.
    Started out with nothing. Still have most of it left.

  5. #5
    Craftsman
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    Why not build a timber frame fully insulated garage on a concrete Plinth?
    Will be much warmer/energy efficient etc and a much better proposition for storage of classic cars ..

    Sent from my SM-G960F using TZ-UK mobile app

  6. #6
    In my experience with concrete garages you have to keep them well ventilated.
    What I would normally suggest in a brick built garage is low level air bricks (the more the better), for fresh air intake and then high level air bricks for the removal of warmer air.
    I own over 25 garages as a rental business and always prefer brick built (stating the obvious I know).
    Concrete garages will always pose issues over time due to panel seal, floor seal etc.
    In essence, if I had a concrete garage I’d make good with what I had but if I were pulling it down I’d always rebuild in block/brick..

  7. #7
    Grand Master
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    Approx costs (very approximate) are £20,000 to build a decent sized brick garage vs £8500 for a concrete section. Brick would add a little more value to the property but as I don’t plan to move again that’s not a priority.

    I had a concrete garage in the past and I remember having problems sealing it around the base, but I never tried re- sealing it. My dad had one and that was fine, dry as a bone.

    The rest of the bungalow soaking up money, I’ve no doubt about that, and we’ll be living in it whilst major work is being done. Can’t see many watches getting fixed for a while, even though the room designated as a workshop/ study won’t be affected by the changes.

  8. #8
    Grand Master number2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by walkerwek1958 View Post
    Approx costs (very approximate) are £20,000 to build a decent sized brick garage vs £8500 for a concrete section. Brick would add a little more value to the property but as I don’t plan to move again that’s not a priority.

    I had a concrete garage in the past and I remember having problems sealing it around the base, but I never tried re- sealing it. My dad had one and that was fine, dry as a bone.

    The rest of the bungalow soaking up money, I’ve no doubt about that, and we’ll be living in it whilst major work is being done. Can’t see many watches getting fixed for a while, even though the room designated as a workshop/ study won’t be affected by the changes.
    Bugger!
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  9. #9
    Master
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    Well done Paul so it’s back on. You know the answer, the brick build with block and dry lined will be the best for storage warmth etc. You know my answer comfort warmth and no condensation all the way, our Classics have to be pampered.

  10. #10
    Journeyman
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    Replacement Garage

    Hi

    I would recommend the Local Planning Authrity is consulted early on - by way of formal written advice - as to whether replacing like with like requires an application or not.

    Clearly any changes - even on the existing base as I have asked recently to take down and put up same sized timber structure - requires some confirmation from them that is okay.

    L-K

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by Low-Key View Post
    Hi

    I would recommend the Local Planning Authrity is consulted early on - by way of formal written advice - as to whether replacing like with like requires an application or not.

    Clearly any changes - even on the existing base as I have asked recently to take down and put up same sized timber structure - requires some confirmation from them that is okay.

    L-K
    My first port of call would be checking permitted development.

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