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Thread: MTB help

  1. #1

    MTB help

    Morning,

    I am looking for a MTB bike for around £400-£500. I have a nice road bike but the oldest (5) is loving her MTB bike and I want the family to start going on rides together and my road bike does not quite work on a MTB trail!

    Recently got the Mrs a Whyte 604 for a really good price, so I am now on the lookout for a bike for me.

    The issues is so many chancers on eBay etc and bike prices and quite frankly nuts at the moment, people selling bikes for higher than RRP that are in stock online!

    I am stuck between a second-hand voodoo bizango - initially I discounted this brand as a cheap Halfords make but after some research, the bizango has won almost every "best bike under £750" award for the last few years. I can pick up a 1-2 year old bizango for around 400-450.

    There is a nice looking giant anthem x3 for the same money but its a 10 year old frame. Lots of Cube aims, scott aspects, trek marlin 5's all for the same kind of money but they retail for less than the bizango.

    Part of me thinks at this price point just get the newest bike I can and they will all be about the same, I do not want to spend as much as I did on my road bike as I am not sure how much the family will get into it. I did have a go on the Mrs bike over the weekend at a small MTB trail and it was good fun.

    Any help greatly appreciated!

  2. #2
    Master murkeywaters's Avatar
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    A bit like you I wanted a bike but wasn't sure how much I would use it so didn't want to spend a lot, so I bought this Cove Stiffee FR off facebook marketplace about a week ago.

    It had been left in a shed for 5 years so I used it as an opportunity to learn a bit about bikes, I stripped it down to every nut/bolt, degreased and cleaned everything, completely rebuilt the Hope brakes and bled them and just learnt from videos on YT on what to do, a few new seals and cables and I'm in it for about £350.

    I took it on a mtb track yesterday with my son and it was great fun, even better that I put so much effort into restoring a nice hardtail. I made sure the forks had the correct air pressure for my weight but next job is a fork rebuild, some good bargains out there if you troll the private ads, just make sure its not nicked!


  3. #3
    Craftsman
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    For a little more than you are looking to spend, I would consider a new Boardman Bike. Something like https://www.halfords.com/bikes/mount...ue-527645.html

    I had a Boardman years ago and thought they were great. I don't know what they are like today, but historically the components were very high spec for the money.

  4. #4
    Grand Master wileeeeeey's Avatar
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    Might be worth having a look at new bikes on the cycle to work scheme. You'll save money as it's 0% and you pay it back before tax.

  5. #5
    I have a Voodoo Bizango, bought new a year and a half ago after I researched what mtb to buy for around £750. It has been thoroughly used and showed that use when the rear wheel split during a hack along the coast. At first I thought the clicking was a bearing issue so I stripped crank and rear wheel, discovered the cup and cone bearings in the rear hub were moderately mangled but greased and reassembled. The clicking turned out to be two spokes moving around in the splits in the rim. I’m back up and running now, with a new rear wheel from Halfords under warranty but I’ve ordered a new hand built wheel set with better hubs and stronger rims. More in depth reading into the specification shows where Voodoo(Halfords) have skimped on the spec, such as the freehub, cup and cone bearings, rim type but if you pick one up for £400, assuming it hasn’t been abused, you’ll benefit from a decent set of forks and an introduction to the benefits of 29er wheels and 1x drivetrain. However, if you are anywhere near my 110kg weight, I’d look elsewhere.

  6. #6
    thanks for the comments,

    I have been offered a Whyte 605 in good condition with some nice upgrades for £400, or a bizango for £320 but needs some work.

  7. #7
    Master Guz's Avatar
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    Check out the Calibre Rake or Calibre Two Cubed at Go Outdoors, outstanding value for money and score highly in MTB magazine review awards. They are designed and rode by British bikers :-)

    I have a Calibre Line 10 and love it, although I’ve only rode it on fire breaks. Need to fitness back before I really test it.

  8. #8
    Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by NikGixer750 View Post
    thanks for the comments,

    I have been offered a Whyte 605 in good condition with some nice upgrades for £400, or a bizango for £320 but needs some work.
    Of the two, I’d take the whyte 605 if it’s in good nick as you suggest.

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by NikGixer750 View Post
    thanks for the comments,

    I have been offered a Whyte 605 in good condition with some nice upgrades for £400, or a bizango for £320 but needs some work.
    I’d avoid having to do too much to get a bike running but the early versions of the 605 had 2x or 3x drivetrains, ie the ring or rings at the pedals. The Bizango, if it’s the orange coloured frame version, has 1x, which is worth getting into. Less weight, one less thing to go wrong and more space in the ‘cockpit’ ie handlebar.

  10. #10

    MTB help

    Well I ended up with the Whyte, it was pouring with rain so did not give a good check like I should have.

    Frame is in good condition a few chips but nothing bad.

    A few bits have been swapped out, it has a different stem and handlebars to the original bikes and it looks badly fit. Did not think much of it but now I have it home it looks bodged together. Will source a whyte stem and handlebars off eBay, they seems cheap to replace.

    Gears are quiet and changed smoothly, brakes work well. Could do with a service I imagine.

    Kinda happy with the buy for £400, most 506 tend to be closer to the £500+ mark but could spend that getting the little niggles fixed.

    Hopefully I do not find any other issues.

    The bike has 3x front rings. Seems very redundant tbh unless you are climbing some monster hills.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  11. #11
    Master
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    Very easy to change to a 1x11 or 1x12 if you want to spend a bit more cash. Any pics of the bar and stem, and the whole bike of course👍

  12. #12
    Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by NikGixer750 View Post
    Well I ended up with the Whyte, it was pouring with rain so did not give a good check like I should have.

    Frame is in good condition a few chips but nothing bad.

    A few bits have been swapped out, it has a different stem and handlebars to the original bikes and it looks badly fit. Did not think much of it but now I have it home it looks bodged together. Will source a whyte stem and handlebars off eBay, they seems cheap to replace.

    Gears are quiet and changed smoothly, brakes work well. Could do with a service I imagine.

    Kinda happy with the buy for £400, most 506 tend to be closer to the £500+ mark but could spend that getting the little niggles fixed.

    Hopefully I do not find any other issues.

    The bike has 3x front rings. Seems very redundant tbh unless you are climbing some monster hills.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    What’s the issue with the stem and bars?
    There won’t be anything proprietary about the Whyte one or if they have to be changed there’s a raft of choice out there.

  13. #13
    Grand Master
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    If you're in the Bristol area i can have a look at it if you need a once over.

  14. #14
    Craftsman
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    Quote Originally Posted by murkeywaters View Post
    A bit like you I wanted a bike but wasn't sure how much I would use it so didn't want to spend a lot, so I bought this Cove Stiffee FR off facebook marketplace about a week ago.

    It had been left in a shed for 5 years so I used it as an opportunity to learn a bit about bikes, I stripped it down to every nut/bolt, degreased and cleaned everything, completely rebuilt the Hope brakes and bled them and just learnt from videos on YT on what to do, a few new seals and cables and I'm in it for about £350.

    I took it on a mtb track yesterday with my son and it was great fun, even better that I put so much effort into restoring a nice hardtail. I made sure the forks had the correct air pressure for my weight but next job is a fork rebuild, some good bargains out there if you troll the private ads, just make sure its not nicked!

    That’s a beauty and very envious. One bike I always wanted but never got round or the time to try 👍

  15. #15
    Grand Master
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    Best bang for buck is always going old 26", you can pick up a nice bike for pennies, they really have gone out of fashion, but just as effective as they were in the 2000s.

  16. #16
    Master murkeywaters's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LRB255 View Post
    That’s a beauty and very envious. One bike I always wanted but never got round or the time to try 
    Thanks, its a lovely bike but the frame is probably better than I'll ever be!

    Quote Originally Posted by Argee1977 View Post
    Best bang for buck is always going old 26", you can pick up a nice bike for pennies, they really have gone out of fashion, but just as effective as they were in the 2000s.
    True, the FS 29'ers just seem to glide over rough terrain, add in some are electric powered and its almost moto cross!

  17. #17
    Master
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    My 2010 Specialized Rockhopper SL is the most comfy hardtail bike I've ever ridden. It's also light with Shimano SLX/XT components and lockout Rockshox Recon. The frame is just so springy and compliant. I also have an EBCO MH7 Ebike with a very similar geometry that feels very comfy to ride. I think it has something to do with the way the lower diagonal meets the upper at the headstock and the angle thereof or something like that lol.
    Anyway, I would recommend the Rockhopper.
    And it can use 26" and 27.5" wheels

  18. #18
    Craftsman dustybottoms's Avatar
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    OP- Whilst it is not possible to say whether the bar and stem have been selected or fitted well without a photo, it is perfectly normal for owners to swap out bars, stems and grips almost immediately once a bike is bought. Contact points and sizing preference are a very personal thing and the stock build does not always suit the owner. Similarly whats on it now may not suit you for the same reasons.

    Upgrading and moding is one of the pleasures of the hobby and cycling.

    I have swapped those things out first chance possible every time, on all my bikes except for one over many years of mountain biking.

  19. #19
    The issue with the bar is he got a 35mm stem and a thinner bar so it moves, what he they did was wedge some rubber between to hold it. I only noticed this when I took apart at home to try solve the slight movement.

    I have a friend who is good with bike maintenance, I plan to strip the full bike down as mentioned above and clean everything. I always wanted to learn more about bike mechanics so this is a good time as any. The rear hub is also noisy so that needs a good clean. If he does not have time plan to get the £50 toolkit off wiggle and some dry lube and degreaser and strip the bike myself after watching many youtube vidoes.

    Still happy with the bike and the price but will cost some to get it working better.

    I sourced some Whytes bars and grips off eBay for £30 so hopefully that will solve the bar issue.

  20. #20
    Quote Originally Posted by Toddy View Post
    Very easy to change to a 1x11 or 1x12 if you want to spend a bit more cash.
    I think that's the biggest improvement in MTB's in the last decade. 1x chainsets on bikes not only look better but clutch rear mechs make riding quieter on rough trails, and since having 1x10 set-up I can't say I've ever wanted any more gears.

  21. #21
    Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by NikGixer750 View Post
    The issue with the bar is he got a 35mm stem and a thinner bar so it moves, what he they did was wedge some rubber between to hold it. I only noticed this when I took apart at home to try solve the slight movement.

    I have a friend who is good with bike maintenance, I plan to strip the full bike down as mentioned above and clean everything. I always wanted to learn more about bike mechanics so this is a good time as any. The rear hub is also noisy so that needs a good clean. If he does not have time plan to get the £50 toolkit off wiggle and some dry lube and degreaser and strip the bike myself after watching many youtube vidoes.

    Still happy with the bike and the price but will cost some to get it working better.

    I sourced some Whytes bars and grips off eBay for £30 so hopefully that will solve the bar issue.
    Nik its allways worth getting an appreciation of a bike yourself. Since when you are out and about riding and say the derailleur starts clicking, you know how to fix it. The only things I shy away from Are replacing bottom brackets and Fitting new headsets. Everything else is up for grabs.

  22. #22
    Craftsman
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    Quote Originally Posted by chrisparker View Post
    I think that's the biggest improvement in MTB's in the last decade. 1x chainsets on bikes not only look better but clutch rear mechs make riding quieter on rough trails, and since having 1x10 set-up I can't say I've ever wanted any more gears.
    I have a 2008 Intense full suspension bike still running original xtr gears, would I be easily able to change over to a single chain ring up front and rear to suit at reasonable cost and without altering the dynamics of the bike?

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by LRB255 View Post
    I have a 2008 Intense full suspension bike still running original xtr gears, would I be easily able to change over to a single chain ring up front and rear to suit at reasonable cost and without altering the dynamics of the bike?
    In essence yes, in reality the devil is in the detail.

    You’ll need a new cassette rear derailleur and shifter, chain and chain ring, also possible are new crank and bottom bracket.

    Chain rings / cranks come in boost and non-boost flavour you’ll most likely (certainly) be non-boost at that age.
    If you want 12 speed then you’ll need a new free hub, 11 speed might not if you go with Shimano, they have just released a wide range cassette that fits the hg freehub assuming that’s your current fitment.

    Simple eh ;-)

    TBH if you’re unsure then best to talk to your local bike shop who does your current servicing about the options and costs.

    Talking of such I’d guess you are £250 in parts alone for Shimano slx 11 speed without a new freehub plus fitting as a minimum.

  24. #24
    Craftsman
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    Quote Originally Posted by Captain Morgan View Post
    In essence yes, in reality the devil is in the detail.

    You’ll need a new cassette rear derailleur and shifter, chain and chain ring, also possible are new crank and bottom bracket.

    Chain rings / cranks come in boost and non-boost flavour you’ll most likely (certainly) be non-boost at that age.
    If you want 12 speed then you’ll need a new free hub, 11 speed might not if you go with Shimano, they have just released a wide range cassette that fits the hg freehub assuming that’s your current fitment.

    Simple eh ;-)

    TBH if you’re unsure then best to talk to your local bike shop who does your current servicing about the options and costs.

    Talking of such I’d guess you are £250 in parts alone for Shimano slx 11 speed without a new freehub plus fitting as a minimum.
    Many thanks for the detailed summary, all doable by the sound of it but probably not worth it especially if went xt or xtr. The xtr kit on the bike is original and still silky smooth as the 1st day I got it, must say something about Shimano quality

  25. #25
    Quote Originally Posted by Dakuan View Post
    Dropper posts?
    Dropper posts are up there but 1x has prompted a whole raft of improvements in cassette design. The new 10-50+ teeth with eagle ring provides all the range you’ll ever need with less weight. I haven’t yet tried a dropper post but I am interested.

  26. #26
    Quote Originally Posted by LRB255 View Post
    Many thanks for the detailed summary, all doable by the sound of it but probably not worth it especially if went xt or xtr. The xtr kit on the bike is original and still silky smooth as the 1st day I got it, must say something about Shimano quality
    XTR is nice but at 12 years old any modern Shimano groupset, Deore or above will feel like an upgrade.

    Great that your kit is still silky smooth after that long, probably says something about how much you’re getting out too. A few rides in Yorkshire mud and weekly trips to Dalby forest had my gears feeling like a bricks in a cement mixer after a winter season.

  27. #27
    Craftsman
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    Quote Originally Posted by chrisparker View Post
    XTR is nice but at 12 years old any modern Shimano groupset, Deore or above will feel like an upgrade.

    Great that your kit is still silky smooth after that long, probably says something about how much you’re getting out too. A few rides in Yorkshire mud and weekly trips to Dalby forest had my gears feeling like a bricks in a cement mixer after a winter season.
    your probably right, just light Lakes trails. Girlfriend’s daughter just bought a hybrid with Altus gearing which apparently is bottom of the range groupset. Quick 5 minute go and was well impressed how slick the gear changes were and also liked the look of the single chainring up front

  28. #28
    Master
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    For decades the middle ring is the only one really used and hence more (cheap) cranksets get binned for this reason. With modern/more sophisticated groups the middle ring is the one often replaced. Just saying you could argue that gearing has only been effectively single front ring for ages.

  29. #29
    I had a little ride around the village last night and everything works as it should, gears are smooth and not noisy. The new handlebar should arrive Friday, just in time for a trip to Wales next week (if they open wales)

    Once the gears need replacing going to 1x makes sense, messing about last night anything apart from the biggest cog was redundant, unless you plan to climb some monster hills, which I don't. I can see why new bikes are just 1x at the front.

  30. #30
    Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by NikGixer750 View Post
    I had a little ride around the village last night and everything works as it should, gears are smooth and not noisy. The new handlebar should arrive Friday, just in time for a trip to Wales next week (if they open wales)

    Once the gears need replacing going to 1x makes sense, messing about last night anything apart from the biggest cog was redundant, unless you plan to climb some monster hills, which I don't. I can see why new bikes are just 1x at the front.
    Quote Originally Posted by Dakuan View Post
    The have much bigger cassettes at the back so you can still climb the monster hills :) The smaller cassette cog doesnt quite counter the lack of big ring at the front though, so top end speed is reduced, not that'd you notice that off road anyway.
    Yep and the often quoted weight saving doesn’t actually exist plus the 12x1 cassettes place the weight in the wheel so it’s less optimally placed than a front mech and additional chain rings.

    That said there are benefits on not having a second shifter especially if you use a dropper post.

    You have to balance the costs involved in moving to 1xX vs maintaining a 2-3xX system.

  31. #31
    Quote Originally Posted by Dakuan View Post
    Thats a slightly better horse - dropper posts have changed everything. I use the same bike for climbing 1500m and decending a double black run....on the same ride!

    Feel bad for the derail though, its a rad ride OP, looking forward to seeing more pics!
    Let’s not feel bad for derailing as it all helps the OP get excited about his new hobby! As for dropper posts, I take the point. Stopping the flow to get off the bike and lower the post is a ball ache. That’s the next upgrade for my bike sorted, assuming I can find one in stock.

    OP- good to hear everything’s running smoothly. Looking forward to some pics!

  32. #32
    SydR
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    MTB help

    I always thought that a dropper post was a bit of a gimmick till I got a new Norco Fluid with one.

    Mrs Syd’s Specialized Rockhopper now has one two.

  33. #33
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    I've just bought a suspension seatpost, the Suntour NCX. I like it. The trouble with full sus, more to go wrong, more to set up and when you stand over it's still power sapping bouncy unless you lock out. But I suppose it's subjective.

  34. #34
    Quote Originally Posted by Harry Smith View Post
    I've just bought a suspension seatpost, the Suntour NCX. I like it. The trouble with full sus, more to go wrong, more to set up and when you stand over it's still power sapping bouncy unless you lock out. But I suppose it's subjective.
    I’d take rear suspension over a suspension seat post though. Rear suspension helps keep the rear wheel planted. Better traction, better control through the pedals and easier on the legs. A suspension seat post doesn’t add anything more than some extra weight and less vibration in the saddle, doesn’t really help when the trail gets rough.

    Bike suspension is well sorted now and super reliable, take a single pivot Orange, there’s little to go wrong. Don’t get me wrong, I’ve owned a Fixie for simple low maintenance cycling but also never had issues with Fox or Rock Shox.
    Last edited by chrisparker; 15th July 2020 at 23:24.

  35. #35

    MTB help

    A little update! Had the bike a few weeks. Fixed the handlebars, stripped the rear and front hubs and cleaned and ready greased the bearings and fitted some tubeless tyres. The back brake was poor, fitted some new pads and tried to bleed the brakes but they still arnt right.

    The gears need some work, enjoying learning about the bike.

    Went to the Leeds park and it was good fun.



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  36. #36
    That looks like a fun bit of kit, poised to provide years of enjoyment.

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