Reply With QuoteThey look like Pirelli MT60Originally Posted by learningtofly
What tyres are they, Piers, and how do you find them on the road (particularly when it's wet)? I'm thinking about fitting some Continental TKC 70s to my 9T but am looking at the other options too.love my XSR700. This was originally the anniversary model.
They look like Pirelli MT60
Hi Tony
They are Pirelli MT60s. They are excellent and I don't notice much of a difference.
Prior to these, I had some 'Golden Tyre' GT 201s (pictured below ) which were much bigger ( see previous shot ) - these weren't great I'm honest, the Pirellis however are in a different league.
The good thing about the MT60s is they have a really nice look but there's minimal obvious difference with riding.
Good to know, Piers, thank you.Hi Tony
They are Pirelli MT60s. They are excellent and I don't notice much of a difference.
Prior to these, I had some 'Golden Tyre' GT 201s (pictured below ) which were much bigger ( see previous shot ) - these weren't great I'm honest, the Pirellis however are in a different league.
The good thing about the MT60s is they have a really nice look but there's minimal obvious difference with riding.
What do we think about boots?
I have very high insteps - to the point where two ski boot fitters have refused to serve me as soon as they saw my feet. They are also wide. There is normally no point me buying shoes online although I do know which running shoes fit me and Doc Martens are fine.
Is there any real advantage to bike boots over a nice sturdy pair of 'normal' boots?
Absolutely; feet are very vulnerable on a bike, and fragile. Get the best boots you can.
As with all bike gear, it's a balance.
If you find boots that protect your feet but aren't comfortable you're not likely to wear them
If you find DMs that lace up well above the ankle comfortable then you are likely to wear them
Better to be reasonably well protected by a boot that you are wearing than not at all protected by a brilliant one that's at home in the cupboard.
However... places like the Mega Motorcycle Store in Swindon have so many different boots on display that you may well find something that suits. I've been wearing Timberland boots for years and have only just bought "proper" motorcycling boots
Last edited by Gyp; 22nd July 2020 at 20:33.
I have very wide feet and only wear timberlands or Daytona boots. Mainly Daytonas but don't see an issue with a properly laced up spot of timberlands.
There shouldn't be a problem wearing a decent pair of strong boots.
One caveat: DO remember to tuck the laces in properly.
As a spotty teenager, wearing lace ups, on my BSA C15.... cruising the town looking for young girls....thinking I was the dogs danglies...spotted a few lovelies standing outside the local cafe...pulled over for a chat, cool as a banana....went to put my left foot down....bollocks, boot lace caught around brake pedal...couldn't get foot off the peg...slowly toppled over onto the pavement in front of them. They walked off laughing....I was crushed.
Well...my ankle was.... literally...
BTDTGTTS
Just nipped into Manchester this morning and passed my theory test.
(and what is the max. width of trailer I can tow with a motorbike anyway?)
Worth checking out - if you decide on what bike you want when you've passed - some dealers will discount the cost of the Direct Access.
At least this is what I experienced back in 2016 when I passed at the age of 49.
maseman
I actually did this on my Street Triple when I was taking it for an ACF-50 treatment. Came to a stop at some traffic light in Chesham and went to put my foot down, only to find that my boot lace was well and truly wrapped around the pedal. As I began to sink to the ground I managed to put my arm out and get some support from an adjacent bollard, thereby managing to avoid complete calamity. Still rather embarrassing, though.
OP, suggest that you look at the TCX Hero and TCX X-Blend. Both Timberland-style but with proper protection for toes and ankles, as well as gear-change reinforcement. I have the X-Blend in both brown and black and can't recommend them highly enough. Just remember to double-bow the laces!
I think BMW do but it's only on new bikes and I don't think it's as good a deal as it was a few years ago.
I'm still not sure if I want to buy a cheap, old 600 and drop it a few times or buy something shiny and newish but I've pretty much ruled out buying a brand new bike as my first bike.
I could be tempted though if the offer was good enough, I suppose.
Do they open up like a normal boot to put on? I'm finding the ones that only partly open with a zip and gaiter don't open enough for me to stuff my cuboid foot in.
edit: and how do you find the sizing?
Depends what you are looking for of course, but as someone with square feet I can recommend these...
Forma Adventure Low. I have a black pair and they are a great fit, easy to get in and out of, comfortable to walk in and on the bike, and so far completely waterproof. I’ve covered about 10k in mine so far and they’re not showing much sign of wear.
I have a pair of the TCX's.I actually did this on my Street Triple when I was taking it for an ACF-50 treatment. Came to a stop at some traffic light in Chesham and went to put my foot down, only to find that my boot lace was well and truly wrapped around the pedal. As I began to sink to the ground I managed to put my arm out and get some support from an adjacent bollard, thereby managing to avoid complete calamity. Still rather embarrassing, though.
OP, suggest that you look at the TCX Hero and TCX X-Blend. Both Timberland-style but with proper protection for toes and ankles, as well as gear-change reinforcement. I have the X-Blend in both brown and black and can't recommend them highly enough. Just remember to double-bow the laces!
Lovely and comfortable, dead easy to pull on & zip up once broken in.
Only critcism...they have zero water resistance.
I have the Goretex version of the TCX Hero.
Comfy from day 1 was big plus for me.
Plenty of options: https://www.urbanrider.co.uk/brands/tcx-boots.html
i'd wait until you get a bike you are going to keep for a while or are certain what you are buying - looking like a hipster on a bmw 1000rr will make you loook like a prat , the same applies to wearing full RST race leathers on a bobber.
also have a think about whether you are buying something to look good or serve a purpose- its already been pointed out that boots with laces are dodgy on a bike unless they have a tongue covering them.
* good gear is expensive so dont buy anything blind - go and try things on.
Last edited by pugster; 25th July 2020 at 08:27.
I really need to try some on. I nipped into a 'J&S' superstore the other day as I was picking something up nearby. I only had a few minutes but I did look at the boots. They had some of the TCX ones but not the Forma (although they did have both TCX and another (British Knights?) that have similar closures). I'll spend some proper time there or another store trying some on. Ideally I'd like some that look like normal footwear but comfort is king.
Having experienced a lace-related mishap, my opinion is that they're not inherently dangerous. They do, however, need to be double-bowed to be safe (and that usually means that they're pretty much covered by your jeans/trousers anyway). There are literally thousands of motorbike boots that have simple lace fastenings, and there wouldn't be if they were unusable.
The point about matching gear style to bike is quite important, though, as I mentioned earlier in the thread.
i did not say they were unusable i said they were dodgy unless they have a tongue covering them (most bikers i know -including myself when ive had them) will tie them behind the tongue and tuck them in the top of the boot -though you have to remember to do this everytime you put them on.
Motorcycle crashes predominately cause lower limb injuries: Feet first or suffer the consequences.
After a helmet, motorcycle boots are probably the most important kit.
Yes.
Motorcycle boots - the decent ones - have protection inside the sole to protect your feet from being crushed (if the bike lands on your foot). The leather will be significantly more abrasion resistant than Doc Martins, and better bike boots have ankle and shin protection to boot.
See: Motorcycle boots explained
When you show your wife (and best mate) of 24 years the bike you're thinking of buying - not the model of bike or the style of bike but the actual bike from the actual shop - and she laughs and says "It's not really you, is it?"...
Wow. Looks like I might have got it right for onceMotorcycle crashes predominately cause lower limb injuries: Feet first or suffer the consequences.
After a helmet, motorcycle boots are probably the most important kit.
Yes.
Motorcycle boots - the decent ones - have protection inside the sole to protect your feet from being crushed (if the bike lands on your foot). The leather will be significantly more abrasion resistant than Doc Martins, and better bike boots have ankle and shin protection to boot.
See: Motorcycle boots explained
IMG_20200726_152832.jpg
Have a look at Daytona boots, fantastic quality
Next step... 3 hour 650cc conversion lesson on Sunday 23rd.
They'll have a good look at me and let me know how much instruction they think I need before sorting out Mod1/2 tests.
Oh that's interesting if they are not expecting you to do full training again
I think they run 3, 4 & 5 day courses (that include tests) depending on previous experience and they'll point me to one of them after the 'conversion' lesson. I'd like to think that with 35 years driving, a lifetime cycling and a month on the mighty YBR125 they'll recommend the shorter (cheaper) one but if they say I need 5 days, I need 5 days.
CB650How exciting
What bike are you training on?
Thanks all for the recommendations on boots earlier.
I finally got some that fit me and my mutant feet yesterday. The big issue I have is the height of my instep and the fact that bike boots (in order to stay waterproof) often don't open very wide with a gusset. You lot with human feet can slip your feet in but mine just won't go in.
A couple of the ones recommended on here were also the shop recommendations including the Forma Adventure Low and TCX (I think it was the Hero or maybe X-Blend) that had both laces and a zip gusset. I could actually get the Forma on to my foot but then the height of my instep stopped the fastening from closing. The TCX was a bit better in that I could get my feet in and the boot done up if I slackened off all the laces, zipped them up and then did the laces up but I would have had to slacken the laces every time I took them off and put them on. To me, I imagine the advantage of these boots is that once the lacing's right you could have them on and off with just the zip. That was never going to happen for me.
Anyway... I went over to Leeds yesterday where there's a J&S and a Sportsbikeshop next to each other and tried pretty much every likely looking boot in both my normal size and a size up and came away with a pair of Klim Ridgeline boots. The BOA system means the boot can open really wide and I can get them on and off without too much fuss. They're probably not the most protective or waterproof but I'm not planning on any TT racing, Paris-Dakar or even commuting in the rain. But on the basis that the safest boots are the ones I'm actually going to wear, these are the ones for me. Anything more difficult to put on would be left in the cupboard as I nip out for any ride when I'm not planning on crashing!
In other news I've got a 3 hour '650 conversion' lesson this afternoon - anyone who knows how grim Buxton is in the rain, spare a thought for me around 3:30 this afternoon as I reckon that when the rain will have found any weakness in my waterproofs
I hope it’s not as grim as you think. I mostly enjoy riding in any weather, provided I’ve got the right gear on...
It's just a matter of time...
Things I learnt yesterday:
- if the gloves don't say waterproof on them, they are not.
- even at YBR125 speeds, 'blasting home' over the Cat & Fiddle road in wet gloves can chill the hands right down
- any 'two piece' outfit will let rain in - my jacket is waterproof, my trousers are waterproof but the gap between them isn't. I could have stood in the rain all day in them but sat on a bike obviously creates a route for rain to get in and/or be blown up off the legs while riding.
- we should perhaps learn on 650s and then do a special test to ride 125s which are clearly harder to ride.
Mod1 booked for Sep 14th. The instructor reckons I need one (3 hour) lesson a couple of days before (to cover emergency stop, hazard avoidance) and then an hour on the bike immediately before the test. Mod2 will be either Sep 17th or 24th depending on when I can get the time off work for a couple of road lessons.
That's an unusually short period of training (well, it's not even a period) - not sure what others think but the Mod 1 is the harder of the two tests and generally requires a few days of prep (which should suffice for both Mod1 and Mod2).
I'm yet to find a pair of gloves that really and truly are waterproof. For long distance in the wet, spend a fortune, gloves inside mittens or heated bars.
I agree, three hours doesn't sound a lot for the Mod 1 prep. Although the tests are fairly straightforward there's still a bit of technique to master - not least getting the right speed for the hazard avoidance and emergency stop. Of course it depends on how much prior experience there is but in my case (as a total novice) I think I probably did 8 to 10 hours of Mod 1 gymkhana training, spread over a few days.
I think that's one of the reasons (compatible) jackets and trousers are designed to be zipped together. That, and safety. Having said that, I very rarely do it.
70% of equipment that says waterproof isn't. It needs to be goretex at a minimum or just don't bother. I think nearly everyone learns this the hard way. I only trust Rukka but my next winter jacket and trousers might be Klim. I've had mine for about 8 or 9 years and it's still waterproof.
Two piece clothing is fine but again needs to be Rukka or Klim, but goretex at a minimum. Might be worth looking at a Klim Hardanger or a Rukka Saana. Certainly cheaper than a two piece but mainly meant for commuting I think. Not the sexiest but meant to be very good re water.
I’ve been lucky with waterproof gear - although mostly Gore-Tex, there is little difference between that and Sympatex or Event etc. for WR. Just buy a decent brand. The external bonded gore-tex (there are so many different versions these days) of my current Rukka has the advantage that the garment itself doesn’t soak through to a waterproof liner; which is great if you are riding day after day. Putting on heavy wet kit from the day before isn’t so nice. I’ve still not experienced a leak in the jackets of my various Dainese kit though.
Ill happily ride with a pair of RAF surplus over pants, over my armoured jeans, and have a few of different types of BMW coverall/rain suits - which have been completely dry after downpours on long rides.
I’m not sure most people need to go to the expense of Rukka or Klim, as nice as they are.
Last edited by Omegamanic; 24th August 2020 at 14:07.
It's just a matter of time...
I did a fair bit of the slow stuff yesterday on the 650 with slalom, figure of 8, u-turn etc. I've just phoned back to confirm my Mod 2 date and asked about the amount of training for Mod1. She reckons with what I've done already and what they've seen of me on the road, a 3 hour lesson will be fine for the remaining bits of Mod1. But they've got an instructor free on the Sunday before the Mod1 on the Monday and if they think I need it they'll tell me and I can have anywhere between an hour and the whole day.
Rukka and Klim are the Rolex of the bike world, nobody needs the stuff but they queue up to buy it, I’ve been there my Rukka jacket leaked and faded so it went on eBay. I’m still wearing a Rallye 2 jacket from 15 years ago that’s never let in a drop of water yet.
Sent from my iPhone using TZ-UK mobile app
That is true, especially when paired with some Daytona boots. Others options can be just as good but you will need to do your homework and still spend a decent chunk. My Rukka kit is 8-9 years old and has done daily commuting for much of its life. Like your Rallye 2 jacket I think it easily has 15 years of life in it, but mine was bought before manufacturing was moved to China so not sure if standards are just as good these days.
That's good to know. I'm new to this so don't really know what's what but I tried on a whole load of boots on Satruday. Most didn't fit my feet and, of those that did, the Klim ones were far and away the best fit. So I bought them. I was wearing my Sub at the time too!
No waiting lists for Rukka or Klim. Had Rukka. Excellent kit. Now have a Hein Gericke jacket and it's the dogs danglies.
That's true - I didn't have to buy my wife a snood to be considered for my pair of Klim boots.
Yeah, when I think about my training, I'm quite sure some of it was just filling time, as it was a pre-agreed one week course (CBT to licence).
Posting Permissions
