I gave my first mountain bike away too, a 1989 Peugeot team Tim Gould.
I had spent a fortune upgrading it, but stopped riding for more than ten years after my best mate and biking buddy died in 1994.
The Nishiki Ariel I bought in 1988 after moving to Scottsdale (Phoenix).
Although not a mountain bike, I was riding a 28" Columbia cruiser like this one as my first bike at six years old in 1953:
...I had to stretch up and over the top tube to pedal it!
Last edited by pacifichrono; 14th June 2020 at 22:41.
Cruiser, like it. I remember quite a few years ago there was a posting on SC selling a restored vintage Schwinn beach cruiser. It was a lovely looking thing.Originally Posted by pacifichrono
The Nishiki Ariel I bought in 1988 after moving to Scottsdale (Phoenix).
Although not a mountain bike, I was riding a 28" Columbia cruiser like this one as my first bike at six years old in 1953:
...I had to stretch up and over the top tube to pedal it!
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They weren't that 'lovely' 70 years ago!
Finally sorted some pictures.
Late 80s Dave Yates, custom built, with Pace RC-30 forks, its been back to Dave twice for refurbishment and most recently conversion to Aheadset style headset; only the frame, forks and cranks are as it was when I bought it in about 1992, now on a mixture of LX/XT/XTR components, still in pretty regular use, was out on it at the weekend:
Purple X lites , I still have the natural aluminium X lites on my wife's MTB. I remember picking up lots of purple anodised bits as my pal was switching from Purple to Blue, how daft when you think about it today.
Wow, that could do with some love!Finally sorted some pictures.
Late 80s Dave Yates, custom built, with Pace RC-30 forks, its been back to Dave twice for refurbishment and most recently conversion to Aheadset style headset; only the frame, forks and cranks are as it was when I bought it in about 1992, now on a mixture of LX/XT/XTR components, still in pretty regular use, was out on it at the weekend:
LoL ... it’s a tool, meant to be used. Though apart from being a bit grubby it’s in very good shape - saddle, grips and bar ends pretty worn but other than that ...
And to be fair that was straight after a ride.
Lent my son my 2005 Cannondale f400 for a few months as a daily beater.
It is now back after spending that time outside and needs some TLC.
I just replaced the gear cables that had started to stick and noticed that a brake lever had been bent as a result of an "unintentional rapid dismount".
All it took was a small corrective twist and now it is in two pieces..
It is a 26 incher hardtail with v brakes. While there are disc mounts, I cant see the bike being valuable enough to upgrade - it would need new disc compatible wheels as well as the brake parts.
(tempted though I am... )
Any ideas for new v brake levers? The ones i broke are Cannondale branded but with no model number...
Thinking something like this would do: https://www.wiggle.com/shimano-alivi...v-brake-levers
Thanks Swisstony
Those would probably be absolutely fine, but probably also worth taking a look on eBay - I got the XTR rapid fire + levers and shifters you can see on mine for peanuts. So the very top spec Shimano.
Someone mentioned 90’s Oranges? Here’s my E3 from ‘92.
XTR, the obligatory Flite Titanium and a fair amount of British componentry from Pace, Hope, Middleburn and X-Lite. Unfortunately it’s currently unridable as the rear hub has sheared its drive side flange (fnarr). Seems a common problem with ti-glide hubs, certainly both of mine seem to have have done it :(. Tempted to pop into the LBS and with one and test out Hope’s warranty..
Very nice 👍Someone mentioned 90’s Oranges? Here’s my E3 from ‘92.
XTR, the obligatory Flite Titanium and a fair amount of British componentry from Pace, Hope, Middleburn and X-Lite. Unfortunately it’s currently unridable as the rear hub has sheared its drive side flange (fnarr). Seems a common problem with ti-glide hubs, certainly both of mine seem to have have done it :(. Tempted to pop into the LBS and with one and test out Hope’s warranty..
Ooh 😋 nice! I always wanted the middleburn cranks and Pace forks! Out of my price range when I was riding as a teenager!!Someone mentioned 90’s Oranges? Here’s my E3 from ‘92.
XTR, the obligatory Flite Titanium and a fair amount of British componentry from Pace, Hope, Middleburn and X-Lite. Unfortunately it’s currently unridable as the rear hub has sheared its drive side flange (fnarr). Seems a common problem with ti-glide hubs, certainly both of mine seem to have have done it :(. Tempted to pop into the LBS and with one and test out Hope’s warranty..
As already said, that Orange looks fabulous!
I dug my DBR Axis TT which I bought new back in 1996 out of the shed yesterday to see what it needs to get it running again, and aside from some new brake fluid, air in the tyres, oil on the chain and a wash it looks ready to go! As with the Orange above it has all the trick parts from the 90's, including Pace forks, middleburn cranks, flite titanium saddle, x-lite bars and an early Hope disc brake conversion!
Vintage DBR Axis TT by Stuart Thompson, on Flickr
When I visited Hopes factory about 3 years ago , they said any problem with our components from any year just bring it in and we will sort it. So if you have no joy with your LBS give them a ring Over at Barnoldswick.Someone mentioned 90’s Oranges? Here’s my E3 from ‘92.
XTR, the obligatory Flite Titanium and a fair amount of British componentry from Pace, Hope, Middleburn and X-Lite. Unfortunately it’s currently unridable as the rear hub has sheared its drive side flange (fnarr). Seems a common problem with ti-glide hubs, certainly both of mine seem to have have done it :(. Tempted to pop into the LBS and with one and test out Hope’s warranty..
I've heard similar things about the people in Barnoldswick.
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That’s a cool looking bike !
QUOTE=stuie-t;5451508]I dug my DBR Axis TT which I bought new back in 1996 out of the shed yesterday to see what it needs to get it running again, and aside from some new brake fluid, air in the tyres, oil on the chain and a wash it looks ready to go! As with the Orange above it has all the trick parts from the 90's, including Pace forks, middleburn cranks, flite titanium saddle, x-lite bars and an early Hope disc brake conversion!
1997 pro flex beast - one student loan in 1997, only sold this recently, used it with slicks mainly on the road it was super comfortable.
that dave Yates - hand built lugged steel - fantastic and that Orange. Dogs bllx when it came out. Not really anything better out there when I look at these bikes. Different or newer but not doing anything the bikes in these pics cant do
Hi Guy's
After a little help from the good and the wise please.
Since I started this thread, I've spent a fair bit of time on the bike, throughly enjoying it too. Yesterday after getting stuck in a field with just far too much mud/clay stuck to everything the wheels simply stopped rotating. So after carrying the bike out of the field then scrapping the muck off, I rode up the road, only for the cable to slip from the clamp on the front derailleur. In the middle of nowhere, with the rain pelting down, I fixed that issue, although the cable end came off thus it frayed. Today I've replaced the cable, set the derailleur up to work perfectly. Unfortunately whilst riding around to ensure it did actually perform as it should, I noticed that the derailleur casting is broken. Broken around the pivot pin too, so it's not going to last very long.
Can I ask the experienced and learned cyclists amongst us if after my research I have chosen a good level of quality and more importantly the correct type/operation of derailleur to replace my broken one. The original that I am replacing is a 25 year old Shimano Deore LX. The bike has three chain rings at the front (42 teeth on largest) and 8 rings on the rear. From my limited google research I think the Shimano XT M780 Top Swing 3x10 Front Mech, seems to be a good choice from 'Wiggle' at £20.99. https://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-xt-...10-front-mech/
Chuffed after doing cable replacement and setup
Subsequently noticed this damage
Original item
Not sure if the size of the cage (is that what it is called) is something that I need to measure to ensure that I buy the correct replacement?
Finally, someone told me to move the brake adjustment pin setting, so I did that too.
I still have my yellow Trek 830 from the early 90s
Sounds like the sort of thing we used to get up to pre-MTB days in the 70's. We had beat up second hand bikes with flat bars or cowhorns. Single speed freewheel. We called them trackers. We had a lot of fun up the woods and in a disused quarry. We used to make a course including walls of death & jumps. And steep drop-offs which seemed almost vertical at the top where we would spend ages at the top plucking up courage to let the brakes off. Then you were past the point of no return and were in free fall for a few seconds before the curve started to kick in and the gforces at the bottom made the tyres bottom out. Then you were on a high because you'd taken on the challenged & survived. If my mother had known the dangerous things we used to do on our bikes she'd have freaked out.
I love this.This is my 94 (I think) Marin Palisades Trail. It’s my “pub” bike these days, but it’s still pretty and I wouldn’t part with it.
Dave
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I'm hoping to acquire a mid-90's Marin Bear Valley SE, once my friend gets it out of storage - where it's been for about 22 years!
My mate had a Marin Bear Valley SE and I had a Marin Muirwoods, then I had a full suspension Orange, and he had a ProFlex similar to the one above but all red.
Weirdly, we both bought almost the same model of Nukeproof hardtail in the last 6 weeks without speaking to each other at all. He popped round on his the other day and I was stunned, he'd bought the 2019 model and I bought the 2020 model a couple of weeks apart from the same shop.
I'm picking mine up Friday, can't wait.
Couldn't see this question had been answered. From what I can see I think that is a suitable replacement. I'm not aware of an change in the cable pull for front mechs and it seems to cover the size of your big ring (did you count your smallest ring?). Also comes with brackets/spaces so should be able to fit your steel frame. Worth a punt as wiggle will accept returns if its unused.
Can I ask the experienced and learned cyclists amongst us if after my research I have chosen a good level of quality and more importantly the correct type/operation of derailleur to replace my broken one. The original that I am replacing is a 25 year old Shimano Deore LX. The bike has three chain rings at the front (42 teeth on largest) and 8 rings on the rear. From my limited google research I think the Shimano XT M780 Top Swing 3x10 Front Mech, seems to be a good choice from 'Wiggle' at £20.99. https://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-xt-...10-front-mech/
Chuffed after doing cable replacement and setup
Subsequently noticed this damage
Original item
Not sure if the size of the cage (is that what it is called) is something that I need to measure to ensure that I buy the correct replacement?
There seem to be a few on ebay if you wanted to save some cash and get like for like. ...but I'd opt for the upgrade to XT :)
Holy thread revival........................... I have one of these:-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=94E7rH7v04Q
Just after I bought it I had cruciate ligament damage and it has sat in my garage ever since. Still has the original stickers on the wheels. It's in far better condition than my knees! Are they worth much these days???
I'm still enjoying this I put together back in around 2003 ish
A thread resurrection.
1994(ish) Marin Indian Fire Trail I’ve just tarted up. Ish as not quite original catalogue spec. The IFT was at the top end of Marin’s range.
Street tyres as I’m not going anywhere near a mountain on it. Has brought back memories of how uncomfortable and slow mountain bikes are.
Will be a tow path cruiser.
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If it's slow and uncomfortable probably the tyres you put on itA thread resurrection.
1994(ish) Marin Indian Fire Trail I’ve just tarted up. Ish as not quite original catalogue spec. The IFT was at the top end of Marin’s range.
Street tyres as I’m not going anywhere near a mountain on it. Has brought back memories of how uncomfortable and slow mountain bikes are.
Will be a tow path cruiser.
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My old sledgehammer!
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No way were those bikes slow. Some slick tyres and a younger rider might make the difference. Is the bottom bracket ok? Original stem I notice so maybe a couple of things need attention. Lovely bike. Looks to be in good condition.
Didn’t Cove bikes all have slightly risqué names? I seem to recall a “Cove handjob” and then of the course “the shocker”. Nice Nike by the way. I’m still running a Yeti 575 at our holiday home and it’s still a quick bike today.
They did, I’ve got a Handjob in the shed at the moment, and I had a Hummer back in the day as well.
I stuck a Tongsheng mid drive motor on the Handjob, and rode that for a while as a pub hack, but stuck the motor on a Rocky Mountain Switch SL and gifted it to a mate and it’s still going strong.
Some old mountain bikes are cool, but the head angles look almost comically steep nowadays, funny how things change.
I have three Coves still all been ridden regularly with their slightly suspect names.
Hustler and stiffee in top picture and the handjob in the bottom.
Prefer 26” wheels. I have ridden and have access to a few 29 wheels, not a fan but just about to get something special to me with 27.5 wheels.
My comfort and speed comments were in comparison to riding my other modern street bike. Had wide knobbly Marin tyres on before, seemed very heavy going. Age definitely is a major factor, but there’s not much I can do about that.
The BB is a new Shimano one. The headset is also new, a budget generic. When I got it, it had an FSA headset with needle roller bearings. Part of the race was missing and replacements aren’t readily available. The catalogue spec was a Ritchey Expert.
The stem came off a 1993 Marin Muirwoods. The IFT was a slightly brighter blue, but I swapped to match the blue shade of other accessories I had.
The frame is okay, looks better in the sunlight. It could do with re-lacquering and re-stickering, but I wasn’t really looking to do a catalogue restoration. I’ve never fiddled with bikes and am going through a taking things apart, cleaning and putting back together phase for a bit of fun.
Need to take it for a decent run, I’ll wait until it stops raining as I don’t want to get my shiny mountain bike too dirty!
Agree on the comment about geometry, the forks do look a bit odd these days.
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Built this one up from scratch. Maybe not ancient but definitely old...
Spec to my tastes rather than strictly original.
Last edited by gunner; 19th November 2023 at 12:41.
Beautiful, always drooled over the Coves but could never afford at the time
I have three Coves still all been ridden regularly with their slightly suspect names.
Hustler and stiffee in top picture and the handjob in the bottom.
Prefer 26” wheels. I have ridden and have access to a few 29 wheels, not a fan but just about to get something special to me with 27.5 wheels.
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