Great collection, think your one more has to be a 5711. White dial
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Being far from the most prolific poster on the forum in 10 years of membership, I thought I would take a bit of time to share my SOTC and changing thoughts on collecting.
I split my collection into two boxes: the contemporary and the vintage.
CONTEMPORARY WATCHES
I have always been attracted to watch designs established in the 50s - a sort of horological Cambrian explosion that within a few years spawned the most iconic and influential designs such the Submariner, Speedmaster and Navitimer. I love the more stylish designs of the 60’s like the Top Time and own a few from the 70’s.
Nevertheless, I would argue that the greatest era in the history of horology is the present day. Never has such investment been poured into design and innovation, or the results been more exciting and revolutionary. It may not be at the cutting edge of contemporary design, but the JLC Master Compressor Chrono 2 was my choice for a genuine 21st Century watch to represent this current golden age of horology.
I find it rare for the Swiss (especially Omega, IWC, Breitling) to improve on an original design when they release an update, but I think Omega finally managed to deliver a worthy successor to the 2531 with the Seamaster Diver 300M. If only they would give the 2254 the equivalent treatment… I’m still not a fan of the bracelet so I mostly wear it on the rubber.
I bought the Breitling Superocean Chrono for something bold and brash to wear on a rubber strap at weekends. However, the Seamaster has replaced it as the weekend watch so the Superocean is back on the bracelet and must be starting to feel a little unloved. There’s nothing quite like it for bold, brash and flashy, especially on that polished bracelet.
The IWC 3717 is my daily wearer, being perhaps the most under-the-radar of my watches. While some say the IWC 3704 is Flieger Chrono perfection, IMHO the 3717 is the epitome of the breed. Robust, no-nonsense, ,very legible and just the right size for anyone’s wrist.
Having said that, the sensational Tudor Black Bay GMT has emerged as a strong rival. Applying contemporary engineering to the more thoughtful and restrained design ethos of the past, it forms that bridge between the technology of the present and the inspired designs of the 50’s. It should be my perfect watch. Here it is demonstrating the infamous date window glitch. To be fair it only does that once every two months or so...
Nevertheless, the 14060M Submariner is my perfect 10. I would only swap it for a 5513. I was fortunate to land one of the last 14060Ms just as the slightly disappointing 114060 was taking over. The Submariner is – to me – the greatest design achievement in horology (OK, they may have borrowed elements from Blancpain). It’s certainly no accident that four of my watches have the Submariner DNA.
The bracelet… I simply don’t see something that is flimsy or cheap but a masterpiece of minimalist engineering, designed for maximum strength and yet minimum weight – perfection, and a design philosophy that has been largely lost in today’s over-engineered sports watches.
On the other hand, I do think the 116710 benefitted from the larger case, more substantial bracelet, PCLs and the ceramic bezel, making it more contemporary and, there, I said it, classier. Like the 114060, it may have abandoned its heritage as a tool watch but for me this has worked for the GMT in a way I don't feel it did with the Sub.
It is said that those who know nothing about watches can’t see past Rolex. Those who know a little about watches hate Rolex, but those who know a lot about watches can’t see past Rolex. I’m no expert but I’m really growing to appreciate Rolex. I expect my next and last watch will be another Rolex.
No doubt many will consider me insane but I bought the Tudor Black Bay Black specifically to get marked and scratched. It’s the watch that accompanies me through the rough and tumble side of my life and I want to be able to look at it some day in the future and recall the memories behind each of those little war wounds on the watch. I don’t abuse it, just want it to go through what I go through. And yet, despite my best efforts and a fair bit of bashing around over the past few years, there’s barely a mark on it – it is by far my most pristine watch. Must try harder...
VINTAGE WATCHES
When I first logged into TZ-UK I lusted after and wanted to possess watches. I needed a 5513 Sub, a vintage Speedie, an 806 Navitimer – watches that would have sat in a box because I was too afraid to wear them.
I fully understand the collecting compulsion but, 10 years on, and having reflected on what watches really mean to me, I no longer feel the urge to collect watches anymore and no longer lust after simply possessing watches.
I now only want to keep the watches that I wear, the watches that will write my own story into them and then pass these on to those who will value them for that reason. Somehow, some memory of me will live on in those watches.
I inherited this Omega Seamaster Cosmic 2000 from my uncle Fred in a terrible state, having spent a few days in the English Channel (attached to my uncle Fred, hence the inheritance). Seawater seeped into the movement, stopping the watch. This was used by the Coroner to establish Uncle Fred’s time of death. Having accompanied Uncle Fred through his life, the faithful little Seamaster then died with him. It never ticked again for 28 years. Now that I have had it restored and got it going again, it seems as if something of my Uncle lives on.
I do think there is perhaps a spiritual aspect to owning a watch; that they are more than just timekeepers, but keep us through our lives and times. Eventually, when they are passed on, they will come to embody our very memory.
I inherited this Omega ’53 from my grandfather and for years had no idea what it was, other than the beat-up old watch he used for gardening – and for that I treasured it. I now have to laugh at the old boy keeping his prized but now virtually worthless Helvetia in a box whilst using this hugely collectible military watch – designed for supersonic flight no less – as a gardening watch. But it’s the Omega, not the Helvetia, that has his story written on it in scrapes, scratches and dings from a lifetime of tending his passion.
Two Omega Geneves – These were considered entry level but their simplicity of design makes them much more attractive to me than the DeVilles and Seamasters of the day.
The lesser spotted Dunhill Facet Millennium edition, full of art deco loveliness and based on the headlamps of the vintage Rolls Royce.
Breitling Top Time
Junghans Max Bill
Fair enough it’s hardly vintage but there’s no room for it in the ‘Contemporary’ box.
Omega Constellation Hummer
THE VINTAGE
The future
I am <almost> content with the keepers in the collection but am resolved to selling those watches I don’t wear, and have started that process already. After a cull, hopefully down to ten, I do think there is room for just one more watch but which? Ideas welcome!
After that, I’m done. Definitely, this time.
Thanks for looking,
Ian
Great collection, think your one more has to be a 5711. White dial
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Superb collection. Don’t be too quick to sell. Just MHO. You have crackers there.
Ah a very nice collection
The I’d agree on the IWC 3717. I have one and despite it not getting much wrist time and probably could do with the cash I’ve just not brought myself around to being able to part with it yet. Size wise you’re right, I think most wrist sizes can carry it off
I also have a top time. Super watches, another one hard to part with
You have a really balanced collection and ticks most of the boxes
Very nice all round
Dave
Excellent collection. Unusual I think, in that you seem to value modern and vintage equally and have similar numbers of each. Most of us tend to lean one way or the other. If I can have one from each box I'll take the Sub and the Top Time.
Lovely collection! Thank you for sharing. Tudor (Rolex) will sort the date malfunction for you if still in warranty. I had the same issue and they resolved it with a new module. Sorry about your uncle Fred - lovely watch though.
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Fabulous collection. This must be the most enjoyable SOTC I have ever read, reading the back story to each piece, the emotional aspect and the history. Uncle Fred generated a grab for the box of tissues, would never let such a watch go as too sentimental.
The diversity of the range was pleasing to see, each there for solid reasons.
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Really lovely collection and some very nice pieces!
Thanks for sharing both pictures and the story!
Thanks
S
Lovely collection and very thoughtful write up. Thanks for sharing
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Thank you for sharing your thoughts and a lovely collection.
This particular watch is absolutely stunning, does anyone have any more information on it, reference, date etc.
I've seen Omega Geneves mentioned many times and would like to know where I can learn more about them.
That four line sub is pick of the bunch for me but I'm also slowly warming to the new Seamaster after originally discounting it for various reasons.
Great collection with some very nice Omegas!
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Lovely collection and very enjoyable read, thanks !
Thanks for the comments guys
5711 LOL! I could chop in the whole collection and still not be able to afford one!
I’m surprised the new Seamaster Diver 300M doesn’t have more admirers. You should definitely check it out as it is much more impressive in the metal. I’m wearing it just now and think it is simply stunning and certainly a massive improvement on the previous version.
Interestingly I prefer the two line Sub and occasionally thought about trading it for the earlier model - until I learned that as a G serial this one has the parachrom hairspring.
I think it does tick most of the boxes (more by accident than design) but I do wonder about a dressier watch, maybe a JLC moonphase or a Datejust…? I also miss my Skyfall.
A super collection and great narrative. Thanks for sharing.
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Lovely collection the Omega 53 being the absolute standout for me and with the family connection even better. Thanks for sharing a wonderful read and collection.
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Really nice collection there, my favourite is probably the super ocean chrono actually, always liked that model in particular.
Really enjoyed reading that. Love SOTCs that have the history and the connection behind the watches.
Definitely some stand out pieces you have and hard to pick a favourite. Will be interested in your journey when you cut them back a bit.
EDITED on second read the JLC master comes out on top for me.
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Sorry Carl, I've been away for a bit and missed this.
Here's a few pics of the Helvetia, taken by my nephew. Any information you'd be able to give on the watch would be really appreciated. I've been scanning eBay almost daily for the last 11 years looking for one like it but without success.
A really fantastic write up, it’s the sort of collection I lust after. I agree that the new omega seamaster blue wave dial is a big step up from omega. Enjoyed reading your semi reviews on your pieces.
A lovely SOTC with a really interesting selection and great stories to accompany them.
Great collection with lots of variety, bravo
Thanks Ian. Great condition.
I would say late 50s, if you can get the back off you can use the serial number to date it more accurately at my site here: https://www.helvetiahistory.co.uk/serial-numbers.
I think it may be a UK made case which could be why you are finding it difficult to match, that could mean there is no serial number in the back either. I've hardly seen two Helvetias the same to be honest though there is always something different, hands, dial or case.
Thanks. Carl.
Very nice collection. I always looked at the all black black bay for a far but never pulled the trigger.
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